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See how well it shoots. Most likely not an issue. All makers have opened up the cylinder gap in recent years and it doesn't seem to have effected accuracy. The only concern I would have is .005 is very tight and you may get some crud build up. Regular cleaning will cure that. I suspect the forcing cone is the culprit here.
I've owned revolvers for decades and still have close to twenty. I don't own a feeler gauge and have never felt the need to acquire one. |
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Thanks for the reply. I own feeler gauges for work purposes so i fugered i would give it a quick measurement. I suspect the bottom os probably tighter than .005 since the gauge .005 gauge still wont go all the way through at the bottom.
Also as anote, i tried every chamber in the cylinder and they all had the same b/c gap. |
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Alright. I did a bit more measuring. The top eight starts a .011 gauge. The bottom right starts a .007 gauge. The top left starts a .006 and the bottom left wont even start a .003 gauge. Not sure what i should do. I am assuming this needs to be corrected, right?
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Quoted:
Thanks for the reply. I own feeler gauges for work purposes so i fugered i would give it a quick measurement. I suspect the bottom os probably tighter than .005 since the gauge .005 gauge still wont go all the way through at the bottom. Also as anote, i tried every chamber in the cylinder and they all had the same b/c gap. View Quote That tells me the forcing cut is cut ever so slightly on a slant. You could probably relieve it with a stone. Or if the gun doesn't want to shoot right all Ruger. I've excellent results with them. |
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Updated with other information in first post. thanks for any help.
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Contact Ruger and provide them with pics before you shoot it. Tell them you don't think that this revolver is safe to shoot...
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Try shooting it.
Bullet hits the forcing cone, not the outside rear edge of the barrel. If it shoots bad send it back. |
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I would contact Ruger and send it back for correction or replacement. They have good CS and a good reputation but every so often something not right may slip out. Good Luck and keep us posted on what happens...<><....:)
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As others have said , shoot it .
As a S&W guy I claim Ruger is known for having good customer service only because they have so much practise |
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It is on its way back to ruger. Itll be a couple weeks before i get it back hopefully. I will post when I get it back and to the range.
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Yeah. I think I received a Friday afternoon special. Kinda sucks.
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the crane looks bad View Quote +! The top of the crane has a huge gap on the left side compared to the right side of the crane/frame fit line. A side note: Cylinder gaps can be anywhere from .002" to .008" with most landing in the .005"/.006" range. I have a couple of Dan Wesson's that the user can set the cylinder gaps on. It's another way to fine tune a load to the firearm. Allot of bullet like to have a .002" cylinder gap with 4 different bbl's in 2 different frames. |
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Crane looks fucked. Did you order this from a distributor/gunbroker etc or did you buy it off a gun shop shelf? Looks like someone has done the 'TV detective flip' to close the cylinder. It can and will fuck up the geometry of the crane and frame in short order. I bought a Thunder Ranch .44 S & W a few years back from Buds, delivered to my LGS near where I was living at the time. I'm in the shop picking it up and a guy I shoot skeet with came into the shop and we started chatting. I show him the new gun, still had the S & W paper wrap etc. I take the paper off, hand it to him., First thing he does is open the cylinder, then before I can even blink he flops the damn thing closed, then open, then closed. You could hear the crane clunking each time he did it. I grabbed it and with as much control as I could muster, explained you shouldn't do that. I carefully looked over the gun and viewed from the front there was a massive uneven gap from the bottom front of the crane up to the barrel lug. I got some feeler gauges and as you pulled the trigger you could see the cylinder pin was no longer plumb, the cylinder would visibly move out of round and you went from chamber to chamber. I shuddered and (I'm not proud about it) sent it back to Bud's and they sent me a different gun.
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I would shoot it first and see if there is a problem. You have semi custom revolver now. I have few Ruger revolvers and none of them is ideal; it's not Colt Python or Anaconda |
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I just don't see how it won't be shaving lead when I shoot. That picture was taken with the hammer back. I stuck an empty piece of brass in there and on one side (left side when looking at the picture), the edge of the case is behind the barrel, not indexed and centered with the bore. I tried getting a picture but it is hard to light it up enough for it to show. The cylinder gap is a minor concern but the cylinder indexing issue, in my opinion, is not good.
ETA: Also if the cylinder came out just as far as the lands then I wouldn't be concerned. However, the cylinder comes out past the lands in the rifling. |
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I would shoot it......if it bothers you that much, sending it back and forth is going to prove to be futile. I would push to have Ruger send you a new revolver.
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Quoted: I just don't see how it won't be shaving lead when I shoot. That picture was taken with the hammer back. I stuck an empty piece of brass in there and on one side (left side when looking at the picture), the edge of the case is behind the barrel, not indexed and centered with the bore. I tried getting a picture but it is hard to light it up enough for it to show. The cylinder gap is a minor concern but the cylinder indexing issue, in my opinion, is not good. ETA: Also if the cylinder came out just as far as the lands then I wouldn't be concerned. However, the cylinder comes out past the lands in the rifling. View Quote That said that gun has serious issues. I would go shoot it and when you get hit is the face with shaved lead or the accuracy looks like bad buckshot patterns I would push Ruger to replace rather than repair that poor revolver. Tell them they can use it as an example of how not to assemble a GP100 to up and coming assembly workers they are training. But who knows maybe is will be an awesome but fugly shooter. Shoot it then use that info to push Ruger to make it right. |
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Misalignment is still there even when trigger is back. Hard to get a picture showing this though. Took it to the range and i was catching blowback to the face with pretty much ever shot. I called ruger and got another label. It is going back again. Asked them to fix it properly, replace it or refund me my money. You would think they would get it right when ilt comes back but i guess it is easier just to quickly "fix" it hoping all issues have been addressed. This will be the last ruger i buy. I dont care if they have great customer service. I'd rather have a gun that functions like it should amd not have to worryabout customer service.
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Quoted: Misalignment is still there even when trigger is back. Hard to get a picture showing this though. Took it to the range and i was catching blowback to the face with pretty much ever shot. I called ruger and got another label. It is going back again. Asked them to fix it properly, replace it or refund me my money. You would think they would get it right when ilt comes back but i guess it is easier just to quickly "fix" it hoping all issues have been addressed. This will be the last ruger i buy. I dont care if they have great customer service. I'd rather have a gun that functions like it should amd not have to worryabout customer service. View Quote |
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I wouldn't shoot it, send it back the frames tweeked. All's you are going to do is eat the forcing cone up.
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Gp 100's are known to be very accurate and very durable but Rugers are not known for their looks or finishing. A Dan Wesson or Smith and Wesson Performance Center is what you seek. |
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Quoted:
Gp 100's are known to be very accurate and very durable but Rugers are not known for their looks or finishing. A Dan Wesson or Smith and Wesson Performance Center is what you seek. View Quote I have been looking at dan wesson revolvers. Saving up for one as we speak. Wish i would have looked at DW first. |
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Just received the gp100 back from ruger for the second time. Looks much better. Cylinder alignment is better and I have an even bolt/cylinder gap of .006.
I will take it to the tange sometime this week. They sent a target with ut and it looks to be good to go. |
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Well F me. So I took it the range. It shot great except on one cylinder it was tough to get the hammer back either by thumb or in DA. Ended up shooting about 50 rounds and took it home and cleaned. I checked B/C gap just out of curiosity and all cylinders were good except one. The b/c gap is tighter than .005 (my smallest feeler gauge) but still has visible light coming through. The problem is the endshake allows for the top of the cylinder to make contact with the top of the forcing cone. I must not have noticed it before. Yes, I did clean all the carbon off the two surfaces to make sure it wasn't that. Needless to say I am at a loss. Twice to Ruger and still has issues. Each time it comes back from them it has a different problem. At this point what should I do? Should I take a file to the forcing cone and shave a tiny bit to extend the B/C gap. Right now it is about .006 on all cylinders except one or two but they are still good (which are probably around .003 to .004 ( a piece of paper slides in between the B/C gap on one cylinder but gets stuck on the other)
What should I do. Send to Ruger for a third time and hope by some miracle they can actually correct the problem? see if they will just get rid of this thing and give me my money back? Put the gun in a vice and take a swipe or two with a file across the forcing cone to extend it by another .001 or .002? |
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Well at this point I would ask them for a replacement gun or my money back.
I'd tell them how disappointed you are that after sending the gun in twice you're still having issues. I would not try to fix it myself. Ruger is a damn good company but, there is no reason they shouldn't make it right! |
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I know ruger makes a decent revolver. However, after this experience I would never buy one again. I dont even want this gun anymore.
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I would send it back for trip number 3, mark the bad cylinder with a sharpie
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The problem is at this point i have zero faith that ruger can get ot right. This experience has soured me on there products.
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To all folks who say shit like "just shoot it" or "if it bothers you that much" you are not helping one bit. If you are gonna say that shit just dont even bother saying.
Leave the post. Your words are worthless. To OP and whom it may concern, Ruger has been effing up lately. A similar shit happened to my new gp100 too. But they fixed in one shot and its been working fine: over a thousand round n no breakage. Yes, its ruger and it will probably function without a problem. But wtf, You paid hundreds Of dollars on the gun. Even the cosmetic issues should be fixed by Ruger. You are obviously not satisfied with the quality that Ruger promised so whatever you feel is wrong let Them know and they will fix it. Im not gonna tolerate a crooked cylinder or barrel. That just looks fucked up for the money. At this point you deserve a new gun. (Im def late on this suggestion) |
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Well F me. So I took it the range. It shot great except on one cylinder it was tough to get the hammer back either by thumb or in DA. Ended up shooting about 50 rounds and took it home and cleaned. I checked B/C gap just out of curiosity and all cylinders were good except one. The b/c gap is tighter than .005 (my smallest feeler gauge) but still has visible light coming through. The problem is the endshake allows for the top of the cylinder to make contact with the top of the forcing cone. I must not have noticed it before. Yes, I did clean all the carbon off the two surfaces to make sure it wasn't that. Needless to say I am at a loss. Twice to Ruger and still has issues. Each time it comes back from them it has a different problem. At this point what should I do? Should I take a file to the forcing cone and shave a tiny bit to extend the B/C gap. Right now it is about .006 on all cylinders except one or two but they are still good (which are probably around .003 to .004 ( a piece of paper slides in between the B/C gap on one cylinder but gets stuck on the other) What should I do. Send to Ruger for a third time and hope by some miracle they can actually correct the problem? see if they will just get rid of this thing and give me my money back? Put the gun in a vice and take a swipe or two with a file across the forcing cone to extend it by another .001 or .002? View Quote Personally, I would love a ruger with .002 bc gap. I dont think bc gap is still am issue for you. Smaller bc gap only means better pressure on the projectile |
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OP, it's a Ruger revolver.
It may be a bit rough on fit and finish as would be a expected from a mass produced revolver. It will loosen up with break in. You keep saying it has problems, but all I hear is your beef with dimensions. Is it shaving lead? Is it failing to fire? Have you dry fired it as rapidly as possible and if so does it hang up? You have a revolver that's not even broke in yet. Shoot 500 rounds thru it and it will just be broken in. Then tell us how smooth the trigger is an how accurate it is. Personlly if using a revolver for self defense you want some loose dimensions so it goes bang every time. The tighter the fit the less tolerant it is of dirt or fouling, less reliable. Don't need naval lint that fell out of your feeler gauges jamming the cylinder at a critical moment. |
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Personally, I would love a ruger with .002 bc gap. I dont think bc gap is still am issue for you. Smaller bc gap only means better pressure on the projectile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Well F me. So I took it the range. It shot great except on one cylinder it was tough to get the hammer back either by thumb or in DA. Ended up shooting about 50 rounds and took it home and cleaned. I checked B/C gap just out of curiosity and all cylinders were good except one. The b/c gap is tighter than .005 (my smallest feeler gauge) but still has visible light coming through. The problem is the endshake allows for the top of the cylinder to make contact with the top of the forcing cone. I must not have noticed it before. Yes, I did clean all the carbon off the two surfaces to make sure it wasn't that. Needless to say I am at a loss. Twice to Ruger and still has issues. Each time it comes back from them it has a different problem. At this point what should I do? Should I take a file to the forcing cone and shave a tiny bit to extend the B/C gap. Right now it is about .006 on all cylinders except one or two but they are still good (which are probably around .003 to .004 ( a piece of paper slides in between the B/C gap on one cylinder but gets stuck on the other) What should I do. Send to Ruger for a third time and hope by some miracle they can actually correct the problem? see if they will just get rid of this thing and give me my money back? Put the gun in a vice and take a swipe or two with a file across the forcing cone to extend it by another .001 or .002? Personally, I would love a ruger with .002 bc gap. I dont think bc gap is still am issue for you. Smaller bc gap only means better pressure on the projectile Maybe with a clean gun that doesnt foul... But mechanical advantage/leverage against the forcing cone on the barrel/cylinder gap will magnify it's way to the trigger making for a shit trigger pull. .002 is not enough room on a double action gun. Maybe on a single action like a Freedom Arms or something but not on something you might ahoot double action. .005-.008 is a really good spot to be. I have a 1950s 38/44 Outdoorsman that has a no shit mid 5 to 6 pound double action trigger pull. It started to wear a bit with the barrel/cylinder gap getting tight, direct impact on the trigger pull as the gun fouled. Resetting/shimming the yoke helped restore the b/c gap and returned the trigger pull to silky smooth perfection. |
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OP, it's a Ruger revolver. It may be a bit rough on fit and finish as would be a expected from a mass produced revolver. It will loosen up with break in. You keep saying it has problems, but all I hear is your beef with dimensions. Is it shaving lead? Is it failing to fire? Have you dry fired it as rapidly as possible and if so does it hang up? You have a revolver that's not even broke in yet. Shoot 500 rounds thru it and it will just be broken in. Then tell us how smooth the trigger is an how accurate it is. Personlly if using a revolver for self defense you want some loose dimensions so it goes bang every time. The tighter the fit the less tolerant it is of dirt or fouling, less reliable. Don't need naval lint that fell out of your feeler gauges jamming the cylinder at a critical moment. View Quote The endshake causes the cylinder to hit the forcing cone on one cylinder. That is a problem and it should be fixed. |
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Sorry about your issues. Just sent it back. Maybe take the grips off and you'll get a free set and maybe a Ruger hat.
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I sent my brand new Match Champion back today because the trigger sticks to the rear. I feel your pain. Hope I don't have to face the same issue.
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Sometimes these problems are just the luck of the draw and a bunch of parts with tolerances that don't agree go together and nobody catches the fact that stuff is weird.
Other times a bad part (say a barrel with crummy crooked threads gets forced on and it tweaks the heck out of everything. It is a shame when stuff doesn't get caught and worse yet when the gun has to travel back multiple times and still isn't right. The OP's gun may be fixable but at this point it is clear that Ruger should have taken one look at it and tossed it in the scrap pile. The time they have invested into it and shipping has to be greater than their raw cost for a new gun. Not like they are getting any good press about it. |
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Just wanted to update. The gun is back at ruger getting looked at. They were very reluctant to take it back. Customer service rep said they tested and it was fine. I explained the problem and was told that it is normal for the endshake to be so excessive that cylinder hits the face of the barrel. After insisting that it was not, they agreed to look it over one more time. We shall see what happens.
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Maybe the 3rd time will be the charm.
I'd sell it the day it got home before I even shot it or looked at it for plausible deniability. |
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I agree with you that the particular problem that you are experiencing is an actual problem. I was reading on another forum about a guy that was having issues with his Ruger Super Blackhawk 454 Casul. He sent it back 4 times now to fix various issues and each time it comes back it has a new issue that it didn't have before. They offered a refund. You might want to take them up on it if they can't fix it this time.
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I agree with you that the particular problem that you are experiencing is an actual problem. I was reading on another forum about a guy that was having issues with his Ruger Super Blackhawk 454 Casul. He sent it back 4 times now to fix various issues and each time it comes back it has a new issue that it didn't have before. They offered a refund. You might want to take them up on it if they can't fix it this time. View Quote If they offer a refund I will jump on it and spend a bit more to get something that will work properly. |
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So i received it back. It looks good but i havent shot it yet. I measured b/c gap and it is good. We will see. I will report back after a range trip
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Ruger should not hesitate to scrap that revolver and give you a new one. Stories of poor quality and ever poorer customer service tend to travel far and wide. I've never owned a Ruger pistol. This thread hasn't pushed me closer to buying one.
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Ruger should not hesitate to scrap that revolver and give you a new one. Stories of poor quality and ever poorer customer service tend to travel far and wide. I've never owned a Ruger pistol. This thread hasn't pushed me closer to buying one. View Quote Trust me. Last ruger i will buy. If the gun shoots i will keep it. |
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