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Posted: 7/20/2015 9:22:26 PM EDT
[#1]
just a guess, but it sounds like a 4" s&w.
without pictures, this is an unanswerable question. |
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Posted: 7/20/2015 9:26:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Pictures would help us nail it down pretty quickly.
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Posted: 7/20/2015 9:48:51 PM EDT
[#3]
Interesting, be sure and include any barrel markings in the pics
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Posted: 7/20/2015 10:05:24 PM EDT
[#4]
Pictures needed, but with black plastic grips, are you sure it's a 38 special and not a 38 S&W?
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Posted: 7/20/2015 11:17:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Lemon Squeezer?
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Posted: 7/20/2015 11:47:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lemon Squeezer? Why even guess without pics? |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 12:30:46 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why even guess without pics? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Lemon Squeezer? Why even guess without pics? Read the description provided. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 1:37:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Read the description provided. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Lemon Squeezer? Why even guess without pics? Read the description provided. Unless it's one of the Spanish copies from the fifties. Or he missed a number in the serial number. He already stated its 38 special which wouldn't be in a 3rd model, which is where the serial number puts it. If it's a 38 then it's a 38 S&W, so we know there's at least one mistake in his post. Did S&W put assembly numbers on the cylinder of the top breaks? When he said inside the cylinder I thought inside the crane. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 8:10:46 AM EDT
[#9]
Definitely more info required. Five or six shot? Barrel markings? Great grandfather could mean anything from 1940 on back to 1880's
If it is a smith the only number that means anything is the serial number on the butt, which in most older guns was repeated on the back of the cylinder bottom of the barrel and under the extractor star. Many older guns were actually 38 S&W NOT special and this gets confused very frequently |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 12:22:21 PM EDT
[#10]
We need pics to identify.
The only thing I can tell you is Smith & Wesson added the star mark to guns returned to the factory for service. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 7:30:16 PM EDT
[#11]
http://i.imgur.com/s5oWypo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pslnW31.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NJPp1d9.jpg |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 8:37:51 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 7/21/2015 8:59:45 PM EDT
[#13]
OK now we have something to work with.
Looks like a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, which would later be called the Model 10 That's a K frame round butt 6 shot in 38 special. The serial number on the butt (69709) dates it to 1905-1906. The same number should be present on the back of the cylinder and the flat bottom of the barrel. The number stamped near the crane is an assembly number and doesn't really mean anything. The star indicates return to S&W for repair or refinish. The barrel looks like it is 5", not 4". Measure from the face of the cylinder to the muzzle. Finish is nickle and may be original - the hammer and trigger were not nickel plated from the factory. Don't use 38+P ammo - pressures are unsafe in a gun this early. In that condition maybe a $250-$300 gun. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:04:15 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK now we have something to work with. Looks like a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, which would later be called the Model 10 That's a K frame round butt 6 shot in 38 special. The serial number on the butt (69709) dates it to 1905-1906. The same number should be present on the back of the cylinder and the flat bottom of the barrel. The number stamped near the crane is an assembly number and doesn't really mean anything. The star indicates return to S&W for repair or refinish. The barrel looks like it is 5", not 4". Measure from the face of the cylinder to the muzzle. Finish is nickle and may be original - the hammer and trigger were not nickel plated from the factory. Don't use 38+P ammo - pressures are unsafe in a gun this early. In that condition maybe a $250-$300 gun. Damn beat by minutes. Just for the record that's why I didn't guess. Lol. It might be a good idea to have the cylinder alignment checked before shooting it at all, she looks like the locking lug is dragging pretty good and the timing could be off if anything is worn. Since she's a very early model it's a given its worn judging by the exterior. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:27:01 PM EDT
[#15]
Sorry it tools some time to get links up, but that's good to know....I appreciate the help with this as older revolver aren't my strong suit.
A couple of other questions for you guys... This is not a gun I would ever get rid of and I know that you will kill collectibility of it, so that's a non issue, but if i wanted to get it restored to original what would you guys recommend?? |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:32:31 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sorry it tools some time to get links up, but that's good to know....I appreciate the help with this as older revolver aren't my strong suit. A couple of other questions for you guys... This is not a gun I would ever get rid of and I know that you will kill collectibility of it, so that's a non issue, but if i wanted to get it restored to original what would you guys recommend?? A good cleaning, inspecting the lock works, and replacing the springs. I wouldn't refinish it, I like old shooters. Others may feel differently. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:34:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Also how do I know if it is a 3rd change or a 4th? Sorry for all the questions but just trying to get the most info on it as possible
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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:39:27 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also how do I know if it is a 3rd change or a 4th? Sorry for all the questions but just trying to get the most info on it as possible The third/ fourth model referred to lemon squeezers. This isn't one. It's a M&P model of 1905.oops you said change, not model. I'm at a loss on that. You used to be able to write the factory and ask for whT info they had but I don't know if they will have much from the teens. |
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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:47:05 PM EDT
[#19]
Awesome that's exactly what I needed to know...it seems like the lockup is tight, but I'm going to give it a good scrubbing and enjoy it!
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Posted: 7/23/2015 9:25:09 PM EDT
[#20]
Since it's factory nickel, don't use Hoppes or any bore cleaner that contains copper solvents. Factory nickel has a copper layer under the nickel and solvent can get into the copper and cause the plating to flake. Use Rem Oil or something similar, no CLP or kroil or anything like that.
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Posted: 7/27/2015 10:42:57 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The third/ fourth model referred to lemon squeezers. This isn't one. It's a M&P model of 1905.oops you said change, not model. I'm at a loss on that. You used to be able to write the factory and ask for whT info they had but I don't know if they will have much from the teens. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Also how do I know if it is a 3rd change or a 4th? Sorry for all the questions but just trying to get the most info on it as possible The third/ fourth model referred to lemon squeezers. This isn't one. It's a M&P model of 1905.oops you said change, not model. I'm at a loss on that. You used to be able to write the factory and ask for whT info they had but I don't know if they will have much from the teens. Post your question about which change it is, along with your pictures, to the GunValuesBoard.com There are a couple of S&W collectors there who really know their stuff, and can give you the correct answer to your question. |
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Posted: 7/30/2015 9:37:44 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is not a gun I would ever get rid of and I know that you will kill collectibility of it, so that's a non issue, but if i wanted to get it restored to original what would you guys recommend?? Were it mine, *I* would send it back to S&W & let them restore it. Value wouldn't take as big of a hit then, IMO. Turnbull Restoration is another option, but boy howdee, they ain't cheap. They do first class work though. My .o2 |
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