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Posted: 5/17/2015 10:00:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Chore boy copper pad bits wrapped around a worn bore brush. Your lead is not the right size for the bore apparently.
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Posted: 5/17/2015 11:10:18 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Chore boy copper pad bits wrapped around a worn bore brush. Your lead is not the right size for the bore apparently. What diameter were your wadcutters? Sounds like they were seriously undersize. |
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Posted: 5/17/2015 1:15:26 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Chore boy copper pad bits wrapped around a worn bore brush. Your lead is not the right size for the bore apparently. FPNI Make sure it's COPPER....not copper plated STEEL ( use a magnet to check ) wrap some around an old bore brush and use some bore solvent 
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Posted: 5/17/2015 5:34:45 PM EDT
[#4]
Or get a lewis lead remover.
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Posted: 5/17/2015 5:39:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Ammo was factory Privi stuff. Got it cleaned by vigorously brushing after an eds red soak.
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Posted: 5/17/2015 6:27:29 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ammo was factory Privi stuff. Got it cleaned by vigorously brushing after an eds red soak. Make your own loads with bullets having the proper BHN... |
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Posted: 5/17/2015 8:01:18 PM EDT
[#7]
http://www.frontiermetalcleaner.com/
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Posted: 5/17/2015 9:58:21 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Or get a lewis lead remover. +2 |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 11:09:44 AM EDT
[#9]
I agree with what has been said about bullet diameter vs throat & barrel groove diameter.
Also, before you shoot lead again, you may want to completely clean all copper out of you barrel. The lead will stick to any copper in your bore. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 12:15:36 PM EDT
[#10]
I tried the Lewis lead remover. I found the copper Choir Boy on an old bore brush works better for lead in the barrel. Still use the Lewis lead remover for the forcing cone but the copper Choir Boy gets the call for lead in the bore. I learned the hard way after over crimping some coated lead bullets. The over crimp scrapped off the coating and the leading got really bad.
Before on the left after on the right. copper Choir Boy to the rescue. 
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Posted: 5/18/2015 12:21:43 PM EDT
[#11]
FPNI.
Chore-Boy is a couple bucks at the local store or Wally World. I bought a twin pack and it should last a long long time. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 12:24:10 PM EDT
[#12]
You need to make sure that your bullets are sized properly for your cylinder.
If they aren't properly sized for the cylinder, you will get leading, despite the bullet being properly sized for the bore. Properly sized for the cylinder is .001-.002" over cylinder size. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 12:28:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You need to make sure that your bullets are sized properly for your cylinder. Doesn't help after buying 1000 bullets and finding they are all under sized. 
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Posted: 5/18/2015 12:37:11 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doesn't help after buying 1000 bullets and finding they are all under sized. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You need to make sure that your bullets are sized properly for your cylinder. Doesn't help after buying 1000 bullets and finding they are all under sized. Melt them down, and buy a cheap Lee mold. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:06:18 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tried the Lewis lead remover. I found the copper Choir Boy on an old bore brush works better for lead in the barrel. Still use the Lewis lead remover for the forcing cone but the copper Choir Boy gets the call for lead in the bore. I learned the hard way after over crimping some coated lead bullets. The over crimp scrapped off the coating and the leading got really bad. Before on the left after on the right. copper Choir Boy to the rescue. https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1381711_535038933241553_1641527257_n.jpg?oh=6bc75e80b6259432288e43d6e5a15e28&oe=55C11BC9 Great photos! |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:16:13 PM EDT
[#16]
a lot of leading is caused by vaporizing the exposed base of the bullet...selecting the coolest burning propellant is a good option... I had best results using Winchester ball process powders with graphite coatings.... Winchester Super Field and Winchester Super Target ... both shot shell powders...worked in a wide range of straight wall pistol calibers
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:24:27 PM EDT
[#17]
I know I'll catch hell for this but.... this:
As long as the leading isn't too bad, a few jacketed bullets will clean that right out. It's what I do, never had a problem, but I know there are strong "OMG blowz up your gun" opinions against it. As always YMMV. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:24:46 PM EDT
[#18]
I never knew that owning a .38 would mean that I'd have to bring a micrometer with me to purchase OEM ammo. WTF? I won't be buying any more lead loads, you can bet on that. I'll stick to fmj or plated loads from now on.
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:36:37 PM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 5/18/2015 3:22:14 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I never knew that owning a .38 would mean that I'd have to bring a micrometer with me to purchase OEM ammo. WTF? I won't be buying any more lead loads, you can bet on that. I'll stick to fmj or plated loads from now on. It can be hit or miss especially with factory loaded lead ammo. Once you find a load that works lead can be a lot cheaper and still perform great. Don't give up on lead due to one bad experience. Just got to try another brand or as others have suggested load your own and you can get them just how you lik'em. You can get more velocity for less pressure with lead since it does not take as much energy to swag the bullet into the riflings. Some of the new coatings they are using on lead bullets are awesome. Only a small fraction more expensive than traditional lead bullets, as clean as plated bullet both handling and shooting and performance to match jacketed accuracy. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 4:13:42 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 
Those are some expensive looking bullets for a .38! |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 4:38:59 PM EDT
[#22]
Those are some expensive looking bullets for a .38! not really I use them in .357 magnum home-brewed LEE 158gr SWC-gas-checks http://www.midwayusa.com/product/873370/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-c358-158-swc-38-special-357-magnum-38-colt-new-police-38-s-and-w-358-diameter-158-grain-semi-wadcutter-gas-check?cm_vc=ProductFinding the copper gas checks are nice for magnum velocity, they are about $25/1000 here's a nice 38 special mold http://www.midwayusa.com/product/188719/lee-2-cavity-bullet-mold-358-158-rf-38-special-357-magnum-38-colt-new-police-38-s-and-w-358-diameter-158-grain-flat-nose 
I must admit, . . . . I'm too busy/lazy to cast bullets these days, I usually just order them in 1000round boxes from MBC, SNS, or bayou bullets 
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Posted: 5/18/2015 4:48:55 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
a lot of leading is caused by vaporizing the exposed base of the bullet...selecting the coolest burning propellant is a good option... I had best results using Winchester ball process powders with graphite coatings.... Winchester Super Field and Winchester Super Target ... both shot shell powders...worked in a wide range of straight wall pistol calibers Incorrect. If this was true, then FMJ bullets would lead, which they don't. Obviously. The main problem comes with sizing the bullet. If it is too small, the gas leaks past the sides of the bullet. This gas melts the sides of the bullet, which throws lead as the tumble spins. This is also a problem with bullets that are too hard. If the bullet is too hard, it doesn't obturate to the bore, and gas leaks by. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 5:25:38 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Incorrect. If this was true, then FMJ bullets would lead, which they don't. Obviously. The main problem comes with sizing the bullet. If it is too small, the gas leaks past the sides of the bullet. This gas melts the sides of the bullet, which throws lead as the tumble spins. This is also a problem with bullets that are too hard. If the bullet is too hard, it doesn't obturate to the bore, and gas leaks by. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
a lot of leading is caused by vaporizing the exposed base of the bullet...selecting the coolest burning propellant is a good option... I had best results using Winchester ball process powders with graphite coatings.... Winchester Super Field and Winchester Super Target ... both shot shell powders...worked in a wide range of straight wall pistol calibers Incorrect. If this was true, then FMJ bullets would lead, which they don't. Obviously. The main problem comes with sizing the bullet. If it is too small, the gas leaks past the sides of the bullet. This gas melts the sides of the bullet, which throws lead as the tumble spins. This is also a problem with bullets that are too hard. If the bullet is too hard, it doesn't obturate to the bore, and gas leaks by. I agree it does not cause barrel leading. That said, exposed lead, even in the base of FMJ, when combined with hotter propellants does lead to more lead oxides being formed and spread around like the stuff you get on your hands when you clean your gun and into your blood if you don't wash your hands and eat a sandwich or pick your nose.  It also causes that sweet smelling smoke you breath in and get in your lungs to dissolve into your blood. Try some lead bullets and Titegroup and someone will ask if your using double or triple-F black powder.  Not a big deal but if you shoot a lot there are things you can do to reduce you lead exposure. Hot propellant and expose lead are counter productive to that goal.
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Posted: 5/18/2015 10:25:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Not to jump on any ones suggestions but the best way to remove lead from your barrel is stupid simple. Make a mixture of 50% white vinegar and 50% hydrogen peroxide. Take a piece of duct tape and put it on the end of the barrel, Fill barrel with the mix, let stand for 1/2 hr. drain and inspect. Repeat as needed (once should be enough).
I got this off the internet about 8 years ago (I saw it in the net so it must be true!) at first I did not believe two non toxic ingredients could dissolve lead. I mixed up a small batch and dropped in a .38 wad cutter. As soon as the bullet hit the bottom of the beaker bubbles started rising to the surface within a half hour the slug was almost all dissolved. Try this it works and is non toxic. |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 8:51:06 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not to jump on any ones suggestions but the best way to remove lead from your barrel is stupid simple. Make a mixture of 50% white vinegar and 50% hydrogen peroxide. Take a piece of duct tape and put it on the end of the barrel, Fill barrel with the mix, let stand for 1/2 hr. drain and inspect. Repeat as needed (once should be enough). I got this off the internet about 8 years ago (I saw it in the net so it must be true!) at first I did not believe two non toxic ingredients could dissolve lead. I mixed up a small batch and dropped in a .38 wad cutter. As soon as the bullet hit the bottom of the beaker bubbles started rising to the surface within a half hour the slug was almost all dissolved. Try this it works and is non toxic. It's non-toxic until you use it on lead then it forms lead acetate as it dissolves the metallic lead. The lead acetate is toxic. Don't get that mixture on unprotected aluminum either. |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 9:15:15 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not to jump on any ones suggestions but the best way to remove lead from your barrel is stupid simple. Make a mixture of 50% white vinegar and 50% hydrogen peroxide. Take a piece of duct tape and put it on the end of the barrel, Fill barrel with the mix, let stand for 1/2 hr. drain and inspect. Repeat as needed (once should be enough). I got this off the internet about 8 years ago (I saw it in the net so it must be true!) at first I did not believe two non toxic ingredients could dissolve lead. I mixed up a small batch and dropped in a .38 wad cutter. As soon as the bullet hit the bottom of the beaker bubbles started rising to the surface within a half hour the slug was almost all dissolved. Try this it works and is non toxic. Sure it is non-toxic until it become lead acetate. Then it is very toxic and not something you should be flushing down the toilet or dumping down any drain. How are you disposing of the used solution? |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 10:44:29 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
try some different brands ....better yet, buy a DILLON 550B and make your own quality ammo at about 500 rounds an hour
right, and how long, many rounds, does it take to pay off it's $425 purchase price + any other supplies needed before I break even or start saving over factory ammo? |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 11:11:46 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
right, and how long, many rounds, does it take to pay off it's $425 purchase price + any other supplies needed before I break even or start saving over factory ammo? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
try some different brands ....better yet, buy a DILLON 550B and make your own quality ammo at about 500 rounds an hour
right, and how long, many rounds, does it take to pay off it's $425 purchase price + any other supplies needed before I break even or start saving over factory ammo? I bought a Dillon 650XL back in 2007 along with all accessories (vibrator brass cleaner, media separator, electronic scale etc). Based on the 2007 prices I calculated it would take ~18,000 rounds of 180gr 40S&W to break even on my investment. I am now well past 40,000rds through the press. I did not re-run the numbers but with the increase in ammo costs and panics that have happened between 2007 and now I suspect the press has paid for itself more than twice over and with modest stockpiling of components I have never been without ammo even at the peak of the panic. Beyond than cost saving I get ammo that is exactly what I need for what I am doing. Try to find 38 Short Colt ammo that make a 125 PF, can't be done but I can reload it. The cost saving are nice but the fact that you create ammunition that is custom made for your application has its only benefits well beyond cost savings. |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 12:01:23 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
right, and how long, many rounds, does it take to pay off it's $425 purchase price + any other supplies needed before I break even or start saving over factory ammo? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
try some different brands ....better yet, buy a DILLON 550B and make your own quality ammo at about 500 rounds an hour
right, and how long, many rounds, does it take to pay off it's $425 purchase price + any other supplies needed before I break even or start saving over factory ammo? Well....if you plan on selling all your guns, buying sandals and a volkswagon hippie van, and supporting hillary, then you might have a point If you think you'll spend the rest of your life shooting and being interested in guns and accurate ammo, then you may want to look into it.
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Posted: 5/19/2015 4:51:28 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well....if you plan on selling all your guns, buying sandals and a volkswagon hippie van, and supporting hillary, then you might have a point If you think you'll spend the rest of your life shooting and being interested in guns and accurate ammo, then you may want to look into it. totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 5:19:56 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Well....if you plan on selling all your guns, buying sandals and a volkswagon hippie van, and supporting hillary, then you might have a point If you think you'll spend the rest of your life shooting and being interested in guns and accurate ammo, then you may want to look into it. totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? Assuming I am using free range brass I can reload 38 Special for $6.28 a box. IbejiHeads 160 RN Coated Lead pushed by a charge of Titegroup. Even if I have to buy once fired brass, assuming I get 5 reloads from it before I loose it or it splits the cost only goes up to $7.03 Similar for 45 ACP 230gr RN Coated Lead cost me $7.56 to load using IbejiHead 230gr RN Coated Lead pushed by a charge of Bullseye. I have never had to buy 45 ACP brass as I always manage to get enough free range brass to keep me going. I presently have a 5 gallon bucket of 45 ACP brass. At those prices if we assuming investing $1400 into a nice reloading setup (Dillon 650XL with a nice set of accessories, brass cleaning and scale) the break even point for either of those loads is less than 10,000rds assuming factor ammo cost you ~$15/box |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 5:35:36 PM EDT
[#33]
I'm just kidding with ya
See if i can type this on my cellphone... 1000 primers $30 1000 mbc 140gr $68 1/2lb powder $10 ---------------- $74/1000rounds $5.40/ 50 rounds This is if you save your brass 38 & 45 brass lasts pretty much forever .....but the best part of handloading is testing and finding that sweet spot that your gun loves When your 25yrd groups shrink because everything is perfect |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 7:12:08 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
At those prices if we assuming investing $1400 into a nice reloading setup (Dillon 650XL with a nice set of accessories, brass cleaning and scale) the break even point for either of those loads is less than 10,000rds assuming factor ammo cost you ~$15/box Wow! $1400!!!!!!???? I thought the guy said $425 would get it done. What else do I need? |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 7:34:14 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow! $1400!!!!!!???? I thought the guy said $425 would get it done. What else do I need? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
At those prices if we assuming investing $1400 into a nice reloading setup (Dillon 650XL with a nice set of accessories, brass cleaning and scale) the break even point for either of those loads is less than 10,000rds assuming factor ammo cost you ~$15/box Wow! $1400!!!!!!???? I thought the guy said $425 would get it done. What else do I need? That $1400 is for a NICE reloading setup and includes the following: XL 650 XL 650 Casefeeder - 110 Volt Dillon Powder Check (alarms if you have no powder or too much) Dillon Strong Mounts XL650-only Dillon Aluminum Bullet Tray-for Square Deal, RL550 & XL650 (not strictly required but nice and convenient) Dillon's XL 650 Toolholders XL 650 w/Wrench Set (not strictly required but nice and convenient) Dillon 1" Bench Wrench Dillon Carbide Pistol Dies (Three-Die Sets) Dillon Handgun Case Gauges (I case gauge everything I reload) Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale (got to have a scale to setup the press) Dillon Primer Flip Tray Dillon 4 Small pick up tubes (not strictly required but if you want production you need to have primers ready to go) Dillon's CV-750 Vibratory Case Cleaner CM-500 Case/Media Separator Berry's Kinetic Bullet Puller (progressive presses make mistakes fast )
I was using my basic setup to come up with an initial investment price. This is a higher end setup. It's a Dillon 650XL with case feeder and some nice accessories, along with a scale and vibrator case cleaner and media separator and bullet puller. You can certainly go cheaper but this press if you're focused and have everything setup right will run 500-800rds/hr. It will also do anything from 25ACP to 30-06. A similar setup based around Dillons Square-Deal-B (pistol only) progress press would run you about $850. If you drop down to a non-progress press you can get much cheaper but your production rates go down a lot too. You got to balance how much you shoot with how much you want to invest in reloading equipment. |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 7:49:26 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:...wow! $1400!!!!!!???? I thought the guy said $425 would get it done. What else do I need? The LEE turret press is a good, affordable place to start $126 http://www.midwayusa.com/product/622290/lee-4-hole-turret-press-with-auto-index-value-kit If you decide you like handloading, the DILLON 550b is a great choice to move up to... https://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/23594/catid/1/RL_550B if you shoot a lot, USPSA, IDPA, etc, or have some NFA full autos, the DILLON650 is a great choice... https://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/23803/catid/1/XL_650 Call LEE and DILLON and request a catalog If it looks like something you're interested in, buy a handloading book, this is a good one... http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Reloading-Handbook-9816049/dp/B001FBFW6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432122391&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+handloading |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 9:28:10 AM EDT
[#37]
It's not always undersized bullets that cause leading. The alloy used makes a big difference as well. Pure lead will of course cause more issues than lead mixed with some other metals ( tin, antimony, etc). Also the faster you push the bullet will generally cause more leading issues as well.
In the old days I used mercury to clean lead from barrels, but mercury is highly dangerous to handle. |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 11:19:43 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not always undersized bullets that cause leading. The alloy used makes a big difference as well. Pure lead will of course cause more issues than lead mixed with some other metals ( tin, antimony, etc). Also the faster you push the bullet will generally cause more leading issues as well. In the old days I used mercury to clean lead from barrels, but mercury is highly dangerous to handle. I push 5 bhn LSWCHP out of my 38's at well over 1000 FPS, and experience no leading at all, this is without a gas check. If you size properly, and use a good lube, alloy doesn't matter so much. Get into rifle speeds, then alloy can play a part, but most handguns, even up to .44 Mag, don't require the super hard alloys that are being pushed today. Undersized bullets will always lead. Not only will gas seep past the bullet, melting the sides, but the bullet will also bounce down then barrel, leaving long strands of lead. Even oversized bullets can lead, using a super hard "hardball" alloy, in a low pressure gun, will not allow the bullet to properly obturate to the bore, this causes gases to leak past. In lead bullets, sizing is priority one, by far and large. If you are properly sized, even a hot load with a soft alloy can be used without leading. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 10:31:33 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FPNI Make sure it's COPPER....not copper plated STEEL ( use a magnet to check ) wrap some around an old bore brush and use some bore solvent <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/boreBrush001.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/boreBrush001.jpg</a> Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Chore boy copper pad bits wrapped around a worn bore brush. Your lead is not the right size for the bore apparently. FPNI Make sure it's COPPER....not copper plated STEEL ( use a magnet to check ) wrap some around an old bore brush and use some bore solvent <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/boreBrush001.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/boreBrush001.jpg</a> Kroil and copper Chore Boy will remove leading pronto. Lazy men shoot out the leading with 2 or 3 rounds of hi test copper jacketed bullets 
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Posted: 5/24/2015 10:33:56 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Melt them down, and buy a cheap Lee mold. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You need to make sure that your bullets are sized properly for your cylinder. Doesn't help after buying 1000 bullets and finding they are all under sized. Melt them down, and buy a cheap Lee mold. That's how I got into my current fix. Then it'll be Lyman. Then RCBS, it never stops. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 10:37:14 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I never knew that owning a .38 would mean that I'd have to bring a micrometer with me to purchase OEM ammo. WTF? I won't be buying any more lead loads, you can bet on that. I'll stick to fmj or plated loads from now on. For starters, you could try purchasing .358" diameter bullets. 
Then, if they used hard lube, roll a hundred of them around in a plastic margarine tub with several drops of LEE Liquid Alox. Let 'em dry on wax paper, bell your brass properly, seat and shoot. I've had pistols that didn't want to quit leading the barrel till they had smoothed out a little from shooting. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 10:39:26 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not to jump on any ones suggestions but the best way to remove lead from your barrel is stupid simple. Make a mixture of 50% white vinegar and 50% hydrogen peroxide. Take a piece of duct tape and put it on the end of the barrel, Fill barrel with the mix, let stand for 1/2 hr. drain and inspect. Repeat as needed (once should be enough). I got this off the internet about 8 years ago (I saw it in the net so it must be true!) at first I did not believe two non toxic ingredients could dissolve lead. I mixed up a small batch and dropped in a .38 wad cutter. As soon as the bullet hit the bottom of the beaker bubbles started rising to the surface within a half hour the slug was almost all dissolved. Try this it works and is non toxic. This is some aggressive stuff and should be used with care. I ONLY use it as a last ditch effort to kill leading when I'm at wits end. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 10:42:34 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Well....if you plan on selling all your guns, buying sandals and a volkswagon hippie van, and supporting hillary, then you might have a point If you think you'll spend the rest of your life shooting and being interested in guns and accurate ammo, then you may want to look into it. totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? The super duper Dillon setup is nice. If you have the huge interest and the scratch. For mere mortals, just get a used Rockchucker type single stage O-frame press on Ebay, some dies, and reload your brass for a much smaller investment. You gots to crawl before you run anyhow. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 10:46:55 PM EDT
[#44]
I blast a dozen copper-jacketed bullets down the bore, scrub conservatively with a good solvent on a brush, and call it good.
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Posted: 5/25/2015 8:16:36 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The super duper Dillon setup is nice. If you have the huge interest and the scratch. For mere mortals, just get a used Rockchucker type single stage O-frame press on Ebay, some dies, and reload your brass for a much smaller investment. You gots to crawl before you run anyhow. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well....if you plan on selling all your guns, buying sandals and a volkswagon hippie van, and supporting hillary, then you might have a point If you think you'll spend the rest of your life shooting and being interested in guns and accurate ammo, then you may want to look into it. totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? The super duper Dillon setup is nice. If you have the huge interest and the scratch. For mere mortals, just get a used Rockchucker type single stage O-frame press on Ebay, some dies, and reload your brass for a much smaller investment. You gots to crawl before you run anyhow. so if I had $350 cash to spend on a reloading setup looking to do 9mm/.45/ and .38spl, could I get enough stuff to do it? |
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Posted: 5/25/2015 8:35:40 AM EDT
[#46]
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Doesn't help after buying 1000 bullets and finding they are all under sized. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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You need to make sure that your bullets are sized properly for your cylinder. Doesn't help after buying 1000 bullets and finding they are all under sized. You can powdercoat them, bring up the Ø, eliminate the leading. Read up at castboolits.com 
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Posted: 5/25/2015 8:57:46 AM EDT
[#47]
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so if I had $350 cash to spend on a reloading setup looking to do 9mm/.45/ and .38spl, could I get enough stuff to do it? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Well....if you plan on selling all your guns, buying sandals and a volkswagon hippie van, and supporting hillary, then you might have a point If you think you'll spend the rest of your life shooting and being interested in guns and accurate ammo, then you may want to look into it. totally uncalled for...F Hillary so how much is 50 rds of 38spl 45acp and 9mm Luger reloading for these days if you were to order supplies at today's prices? The super duper Dillon setup is nice. If you have the huge interest and the scratch. For mere mortals, just get a used Rockchucker type single stage O-frame press on Ebay, some dies, and reload your brass for a much smaller investment. You gots to crawl before you run anyhow. so if I had $350 cash to spend on a reloading setup looking to do 9mm/.45/ and .38spl, could I get enough stuff to do it? Yes, with ease. |
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Posted: 5/25/2015 12:15:11 PM EDT
[#48]
350 bucks would get you set up nicely to tumble and load 500 at a sitting in a couple of calibers. As you get experience and broaden your knowledge base, you can make a more educated decision regarding if/how you proceed up the $ladder.
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Posted: 5/25/2015 3:15:55 PM EDT
[#49]
so would anyone care to create a list of what I'd need to do that then?
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Posted: 5/25/2015 8:16:25 PM EDT
[#50]
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so would anyone care to create a list of what I'd need to do that then? I won't do it - even though I did what you are contemplating - because I do not feel worthy, seriously. Then you have brand preferences and such. Maybe some of the experts will chime in with the specifics? Even if they left out brands, they could list it. They probably won't though - you will be pointed to the stickies. The info is in there - but so much info is there it is hard for a newbie to sort sometimes. |
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