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Posted: 1/14/2015 5:02:37 PM EDT
Hi all,

I recently acquired this S&W 686-6 4inch in a trade. I have always wanted a revolver, .357 nonetheless. I was excited to have the other party offer it to me in exchange for a lot of ammo. I understand the pre lock post lock thing. Here are some pictures, if you guys wouldnt mind helping me grade it on its condition:



Screw underneath the cylinder is kind of "screwed"


My 1st revolver, are these brush marks from manufacturing or scratches:


I think the guy who had it last swung the cylinder closed:


Another shot of that:


Tried to get a shot of the lands and grooves and overall condition of the muzzle:



Let me know if you require more pictures of any other parts of it.

Thanks for looking!

Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:23:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Great gun and looks good. In my area that would go around $600-700.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:26:13 PM EDT
[#2]
If you are interested in it Brownell's probably has the kit for the forcing cone to recut/polish it.
Given quality ammo it can improve groups.
Probably improves newer Smith's even more.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:28:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Looks lightly used to me. My SS revolvers are pretty well blackened around the forcing cone from firing magnum loads - an area that I find very hard to keep as clean as yours is, even with flitz metal polish, hoppe's and a stiff nylon brush. Top strap looks relatively clean too - an area that all gets dirty when shooting hot ammo, and is hard to clean. How is the turn ring on the cylinder?
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:28:41 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Great gun and looks good. In my area that would go around $600-700.
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Quoted:
Great gun and looks good. In my area that would go around $600-700.

That's great news! I traded 500 rounds of PMC Xtac 62 grain, 500 rounds of armscor 230 grain .45, and a few random odd and ends I had laying around for it. The seller only valued it around $500.

Quoted:
Looks lightly used to me. My SS revolvers are pretty well blackened around the forcing cone from firing magnum loads - an area that I find very hard to keep as clean as yours is, even with flitz metal polish, hoppe's and a stiff nylon brush. Top strap looks relatively clean too - an area that all gets dirty when shooting hot ammo, and is hard to clean. How is the turn ring on the cylinder?

Not too familiar with revolvers, what part are you referring to.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:30:13 PM EDT
[#5]
Overall is looks pretty good to me.  What is the dash number after the model number, it looks like a fairly new 686 with that grip it has on it.  Does not look like it has been shot by the looks of the forcing cone and muzzle.  What does the recoil face look like?  The lock haters will bitch but I have thousands of round in my my 627 and the lock has been a non-issue.  That is the brushed stainless finish and not scratches.  The nick/dings on the outer edge of the barrel inside the frame was not likely cause by slamming the cylinder closed.  I slam mine shut pretty hard pretty frequently in competition and never get marks on the barrel from it.  I wouldn't worry about them.

It definitely looks way too clean and the only way to fix that is get it to the range and shoot it, shoot it a lot.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:31:40 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
Overall is looks pretty good to me.  What is the dash number after the model number, it looks like a fairly new 686 with that grip it has on it.  Does not look like it has been shot by the looks of the forcing cone and muzzle.  What does the recoil face look like?  The lock haters will bitch but I have thousands of round in my my 627 and the lock has been a non-issue.  That is the brushed stainless finish and not scratches.  The nick/dings on the outer edge of the barrel inside the frame was not likely cause by slamming the cylinder closed.  I slam mine shut pretty hard pretty frequently in competition and never get marks on the barrel from it.  I wouldn't worry about them.

It definitely looks way too clean and the only way to fix that is get it to the range and shoot it, shoot it a lot.
View Quote

686-6. What is the recoil face?
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 5:50:12 PM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:

686-6. What is the recoil face?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Overall is looks pretty good to me.  What is the dash number after the model number, it looks like a fairly new 686 with that grip it has on it.  Does not look like it has been shot by the looks of the forcing cone and muzzle.  What does the recoil face look like?  The lock haters will bitch but I have thousands of round in my my 627 and the lock has been a non-issue.  That is the brushed stainless finish and not scratches.  The nick/dings on the outer edge of the barrel inside the frame was not likely cause by slamming the cylinder closed.  I slam mine shut pretty hard pretty frequently in competition and never get marks on the barrel from it.  I wouldn't worry about them.

It definitely looks way too clean and the only way to fix that is get it to the range and shoot it, shoot it a lot.

686-6. What is the recoil face?


The face of the frame where the firing pin comes out along with the pawl that rotates the cylinder.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 6:09:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Looks pretty nice to me.
Your close up photo work is showing a couple small nicks and scuff marks that normally would not be noticed.

Like the other guy said , folks will scream about the lock but it isn't a big issue.

I wouldn't start messing with the forcing cone until you have shot it some , typically S&W guns are pretty accurate .

Not familiar with those grips but if they end up not working for you everybody makes grips to fit that gun .

I have a 6" and a 2 3/4 , both good at what they do , I expect you will like the 4".

Unless you bought that ammo at the peak of the panic you kind of stole the gun .

The S&W guns usually have pretty decent triggers but a cheap spring kit will make it better yet . In a double action revolver
it is all about the trigger .

Somebody will be along to tell you that you should have got a early high polish blued S&W . Yeah they are wonderfull but they also are somewhat like driving a corvette as a comutter car . Something we would all like to do but most of us can't afford it.

Something to measure your trade against is that when someone here asks what is the best 357 revolver to buy the answer generally is
about 85% picking a 686 and another 10 % picking Ruger with the last 5% picking some crazy $1500+ choice.

Short answer - You did real good
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 6:22:22 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:


The face of the frame where the firing pin comes out along with the pawl that rotates the cylinder.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Overall is looks pretty good to me.  What is the dash number after the model number, it looks like a fairly new 686 with that grip it has on it.  Does not look like it has been shot by the looks of the forcing cone and muzzle.  What does the recoil face look like?  The lock haters will bitch but I have thousands of round in my my 627 and the lock has been a non-issue.  That is the brushed stainless finish and not scratches.  The nick/dings on the outer edge of the barrel inside the frame was not likely cause by slamming the cylinder closed.  I slam mine shut pretty hard pretty frequently in competition and never get marks on the barrel from it.  I wouldn't worry about them.

It definitely looks way too clean and the only way to fix that is get it to the range and shoot it, shoot it a lot.

686-6. What is the recoil face?


The face of the frame where the firing pin comes out along with the pawl that rotates the cylinder.


Link Posted: 1/14/2015 6:38:49 PM EDT
[#10]
Looks like its been opened and closed more than its been shot from that picture.  After you shoot them a bunch you will have light rings/circles on that face from the shells being pounded into it on each shot.  You did good now go get it dirty!
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 6:45:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Looks good!!!
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 7:05:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Nice score
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 7:54:53 PM EDT
[#13]







Link Posted: 1/14/2015 8:19:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Love my 686. 4". Best shooting pistol I own.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 11:29:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Looks pretty nice to me.
Your close up photo work is showing a couple small nicks and scuff marks that normally would not be noticed.

Like the other guy said , folks will scream about the lock but it isn't a big issue.

I wouldn't start messing with the forcing cone until you have shot it some , typically S&W guns are pretty accurate .

Not familiar with those grips but if they end up not working for you everybody makes grips to fit that gun .

I have a 6" and a 2 3/4 , both good at what they do , I expect you will like the 4".

Unless you bought that ammo at the peak of the panic you kind of stole the gun .

The S&W guns usually have pretty decent triggers but a cheap spring kit will make it better yet . In a double action revolver
it is all about the trigger .

Somebody will be along to tell you that you should have got a early high polish blued S&W . Yeah they are wonderfull but they also are somewhat like driving a corvette as a comutter car . Something we would all like to do but most of us can't afford it.

Something to measure your trade against is that when someone here asks what is the best 357 revolver to buy the answer generally is
about 85% picking a 686 and another 10 % picking Ruger with the last 5% picking some crazy $1500+ choice.

Short answer - You did real good
View Quote


I'm pretty sure they're the factory grips.  You can see the symbol down at the bottom and if you go to their website, that's what they look like on a new gun.  


It looks like it's never been fired.  I'm no expert, but if it has, it's not a whole lot.   Nice score.  
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 11:35:09 PM EDT
[#16]
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Hey wait a minute, I can't cock my 19 with the cylinder out.  I guess that might be an indication of an issue????????
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 3:09:28 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:



Hey wait a minute, I can't cock my 19 with the cylinder out.  I guess that might be an indication of an issue????????
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Quoted:



Hey wait a minute, I can't cock my 19 with the cylinder out.  I guess that might be an indication of an issue????????


Perfectly normal. With the cylinder out, you need to manually push the cylinder latch back toward the rear of the revolver to allow it to cycle. In the video, Larry is doing this with his left hand.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 9:02:37 AM EDT
[#18]
Yes, they are factory grips. They are kind of small, but I like the black rubber grips and the revolver as it is.

It had been fired some, but not alot at all. I cleaned it up some before those pics were taken last night, and pulled some copper fouling out of the barrel. The cylinder had some crud in it as well. I ran a brush and patches through each one as well. The top of the cylinder, (on the forcing cone side), had fouling which is a PITA to get rid of. Overall it cleaned up very nicely.

Link Posted: 1/15/2015 9:41:01 AM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
Yes, they are factory grips. They are kind of small, but I like the black rubber grips and the revolver as it is.

It had been fired some, but not alot at all. I cleaned it up some before those pics were taken last night, and pulled some copper fouling out of the barrel. The cylinder had some crud in it as well. I ran a brush and patches through each one as well. The top of the cylinder, (on the forcing cone side), had fouling which is a PITA to get rid of. Overall it cleaned up very nicely.

View Quote


Those grips are the biggest reason I think that is  a fairly new 686.  I am pretty sure that S&W has only been making those grips for the last couple years, IIRC since about 2010.

Look up a Lewis Lead remover.  It has a rubber mandrill that you put a brass screen over for removing the lead from a barrel and it comes with a cone shaped mandrill that is made for cleaning the forcing cones on revolvers.  Does it with minimal elbow grease and no nasty chemicals.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 9:45:23 AM EDT
[#20]
I can't say 'in before the lock', because OP already has one.  


Link Posted: 1/15/2015 10:58:06 AM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
I can't say 'in before the lock', because OP already has one.  


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Link Posted: 1/15/2015 11:02:08 AM EDT
[#22]
I want whoever cleaned that one to clean my 625. That looks great.

I agree that it seems that 686 has not seen many rounds fired. That gun would likely be $600 or more around here (with box).

Link Posted: 1/15/2015 1:25:29 PM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:


Perfectly normal. With the cylinder out, you need to manually push the cylinder latch back toward the rear of the revolver to allow it to cycle. In the video, Larry is doing this with his left hand.
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Quoted:
Quoted:



Hey wait a minute, I can't cock my 19 with the cylinder out.  I guess that might be an indication of an issue????????


Perfectly normal. With the cylinder out, you need to manually push the cylinder latch back toward the rear of the revolver to allow it to cycle. In the video, Larry is doing this with his left hand.



Aaaah, thank you.  I missed that.  hehehee
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 2:04:20 PM EDT
[#24]
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Quoted:
I want whoever cleaned that one to clean my 625. That looks great.

I agree that it seems that 686 has not seen many rounds fired. That gun would likely be $600 or more around here (with box).

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Lol I did go over it pretty well. The only spots that are troublesome is the area around the forcing cone, and the top of the cylinder closest to the forcing cone. It doesnt bother me too much, itl just get worse and worse with use . Overall I am pretty happy with it. The only things that are annoying are the "chips" on the edges of the forcing cone and the mangled screw that I posted above. Oh well its a used gun and apparently I got a deal on it.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 7:59:59 PM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:
Looks like its been opened and closed more than its been shot from that picture.  After you shoot them a bunch you will have light rings/circles on that face from the shells being pounded into it on each shot.  You did good now go get it dirty!
View Quote



This.

Hardly fired if even at all.

Looks great.
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 1:32:20 AM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:



Aaaah, thank you.  I missed that.  hehehee
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:



Hey wait a minute, I can't cock my 19 with the cylinder out.  I guess that might be an indication of an issue????????


Perfectly normal. With the cylinder out, you need to manually push the cylinder latch back toward the rear of the revolver to allow it to cycle. In the video, Larry is doing this with his left hand.



Aaaah, thank you.  I missed that.  hehehee


No problem. I'm a to owning revolvers, just bought my first two (a 686-4+ and 67-1) a few weeks ago, and thought "Shit, these are both broken!" while watching that video until I figured it out.
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 9:55:28 AM EDT
[#27]
Very few rounds through it but that buggered screw makes me wonder what's been monkeyed with inside. Bonus if the previous owner disabled the lock.



At any rate it sounds like you got a great deal.
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 11:05:00 AM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:
Very few rounds through it but that buggered screw makes me wonder what's been monkeyed with inside. Bonus if the previous owner disabled the lock.

At any rate it sounds like you got a great deal.
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I took off the grip and inspected the rest of the pistol. There are three screws on that side, two exposed, and the third under the grip. The one under the grip looks untouched, with no marring or stripping at all. I called S&W and told the CS tech about it, basically fishing for a free set of screws to replace the marred one. He obliged and now I await a new screw to tidy her up!

Props to Smith and Wesson CS...
Link Posted: 1/17/2015 9:57:40 PM EDT
[#29]
You did good, especially just swapping for some ammo.
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 9:09:47 AM EDT
[#30]
The 686-6 was introduced in 2001.  The lock was the big change to "dash 6".  

The frame top strap is drilled and tapped for a scope mount under the rear sight assembly.  You can see the holes from the underside of the top strap with the cylinder open, looking up at the top of the frame.  S&W started doing this with the 686 in the early-mid 90's.  

The 686 is one of the best all-around guns made.  You chose wisely.
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 6:15:33 PM EDT
[#31]
Very nice score. I have a 629 and need a 686 as a baby brother
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