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Posted: 12/5/2014 7:34:12 AM EDT
I currently own a GP100 and just as was in regards to feeling as though I was missing something without a Sig in my life, I'm feeling the same with just a GP100 and feel as though I might be missing something without a good S&W revolver. Don't get me wrong the GP100 is great and built like a tank but I just want another in the stable to try and round out things.
I'd like to keep the barrel at 4" to 5" if possible and is looking at $700 or below realistic for a budget for brand new or do I need to add more? It doesn't matter if it's a stainless or not, so which model does the gentlemen of the revolver crowd of arf recommend for me? |
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I agree 686, 586 are the best. K frames are worth looking at too but L frame was created to eat 357 all day everyday.
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I agree with the OP that the GP100 is a good stout gun but if he gets and uses a 686 his scale of what is "good" is going to get changed around
I believe it all boils down to the trigger on a revolver . The S&W has got it |
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IMHO the 3" heavy barrel round butt M13 or M65 in stainless is the classic carry SW.... 586 or 686 for longer pistols
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I have a Ruger SP101 and a 4" 686. Since getting the 686, I haven't shot the SP101 and don't really plan on shooting it anytime soon.
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686 is what I'm seeing mostly with the replies, any cap I should have on the budget to set for a goal? I'd like to buy new if possible...I'll give it a look on their website to see if it's still being made.
ETA: Just looked, still being made but is that MSRP accurate? |
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686 is what I'm seeing mostly with the replies, any cap I should have on the budget to set for a goal? I'd like to buy new if possible...I'll give it a look on their website to see if it's still being made. ETA: Just looked, still being made but is that MSRP accurate? View Quote You can usually undercut MSRP by quite a bit if you shop around. The 2.5 inch 686+ MSRP is $849. Bud's list it at $739. Shop around you can probably beat that price. Don't be afraid to buy used, just examine them closely and be picky. All three of my N-frames and my one K-frame have been bought used. Two of them were double deals because they had had very good trigger jobs done on them by the previous owner. I saved money on both buying the revolver used and then not having to have a trigger job done on them. Also new S&W revolvers frequently will have the "dredded" trigger lock and do not have the same spit-and-polish the older one have. Many have observed that craftsmanship has decline some in recent years. They are still very good revolvers but need a bit more work to get them as smooth as the older guns especial with respect to triggers. |
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I like the older 686's better
That first pic i posted...with the HKS speedloader I just bought that a few months ago for $650 It's a 1990's era They make a 7 shot version too...."686plus" |
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Pre-lock Model 27.
If you ever find one made in the mid 1950's it is one of the finest revolvers ever. |
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Meh. The new S&W's leave me unimpressed. Look at the Ruger GP100 Match Champion.
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Model 686, 586, 28 or 27. Used - pre-lock. Each has its own advantages. All are classics with great handling and accuracy. Be sure to get a leather holster.
Pachmayr presentation grips like ricky_45 are the best. |
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My vote is also for a no-lock 581/681/586/686 in the 4" variety or a 5" 27/28.
My 681 will be with me for a long time. |
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A no-lock L-frame S&W would be very nice but I am going to jump on the go big or go home bandwagon. Here is a Highway Patrolman N-frame from around 1954-55. It cost me $569 shipped to my front door using my C&R license. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/johnrippert/HighwayPatrolman1_zpse15c7168.jpg View Quote Original diamonds too... You suck..... Love my 4" 28. I added target hammer and trigger. It is a mid seventies model. 6" next to it. |
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686 is what I'm seeing mostly with the replies, any cap I should have on the budget to set for a goal? I'd like to buy new if possible...I'll give it a look on their website to see if it's still being made. ETA: Just looked, still being made but is that MSRP accurate? View Quote Remember that no one but a idiot would buy a gun at MSRP . Bur yeah , new S&W guns are pricey |
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A no-lock L-frame S&W would be very nice but I am going to jump on the go big or go home bandwagon. Here is a Highway Patrolman N-frame from around 1954-55. It cost me $569 shipped to my front door using my C&R license. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/johnrippert/HighwayPatrolman1_zpse15c7168.jpg View Quote Nice, still with an Ace trigger shoe. That is period correct and pre-law suit. |
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Great looking guns in this threadif I had the extra money today I would try to get a Smith model 19/66 or maybe a model 27, a 586/686 would be in the cards to.
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Original diamonds too... You suck..... Love my 4" 28. I added target hammer and trigger. It is a mid seventies model. 6" next to it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/phatmax/IMG_20130405_195048_195_zpsafdf57d0.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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A no-lock L-frame S&W would be very nice but I am going to jump on the go big or go home bandwagon. Here is a Highway Patrolman N-frame from around 1954-55. It cost me $569 shipped to my front door using my C&R license. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/johnrippert/HighwayPatrolman1_zpse15c7168.jpg Original diamonds too... You suck..... Love my 4" 28. I added target hammer and trigger. It is a mid seventies model. 6" next to it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/phatmax/IMG_20130405_195048_195_zpsafdf57d0.jpg The diamond magnas on it actually do not match and I have a set of Ahrends Retro Targets coming. It has been buffed and reblued so the collectible aspect is gone. Just a good early Highway Patrolman shooter. |
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Spend more and get a 5" Model 27 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/phatmax/DSC_0097_zpsa52cc84e.jpg View Quote This! I would nominate the TRR8 or R8 as well. |
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Besides collector value, what is the need/desire for an N-Frame .357 ? The medium sized L-frame was designed from the ground up for full house magnum use. If I gotta haul a giant heavy N-frame, might as well make it a .44 the L-frame feels perfect, it makes my 629 feel big and clunky. ...and I'm 6'4" with pretty big paws. I LOVE the way the 596/686 feels. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP2986.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP2986.jpg</a> View Quote Need? None. Desire? Well, that is the kicker. |
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http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e315/ROKbeef01/smith273.jpg 27 with the 3Ts it's a Cadillac http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e315/ROKbeef01/pix921232868.jpg 686 7 shot mountain gun. ask yourself do you like a full lug? do you want to shoot alot of heavy loads? do you want a classic? or a modern lock competition gun do you want a 6, 7, or a shot? View Quote The heavy loads I can think of would be the hardcast stuff like 180 grain gas check bear loads from time to time. Six shot...would my speed reloaders for the GP100 work with all .357 revolvers? The last I'm leaning on classic looks. |
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.38 wadcutters feel like 22LR in a K-frame if you load 'em light <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP3019.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP3019.jpg</a> View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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.38 wadcutters in a N-frame feels like shooting a .22 .38 wadcutters feel like 22LR in a K-frame if you load 'em light <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP3019.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP3019.jpg</a> |
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Quoted: Besides collector value, what is the need/desire for an N-Frame .357 ? The medium sized L-frame was designed from the ground up for full house magnum use. If I gotta haul a giant heavy N-frame, might as well make it a .44 the L-frame feels perfect, it makes my 629 feel big and clunky. ...and I'm 6'4" with pretty big paws. I LOVE the way the 596/686 feels. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP2986.jpg View Quote |
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So help a newb out, what is there to look for to see what frame is what? I cannot tell what's an N or a K and to me they all look the same View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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.38 wadcutters in a N-frame feels like shooting a .22 .38 wadcutters feel like 22LR in a K-frame if you load 'em light <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP3019.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/Smith%20revolvers/IMGP3019.jpg</a> Sometimes it's hard to tell from a photo that's my 1977 era 19-4 the K is a bit smaller than the L here's my 686 and 19, you can see the 686 is a bit bigger. eta... found this pic. My 629 N-frame .44 686 L-frame .357 19 K-frame .357 642 J-frame .38 Six shot...would my speed reloaders for the GP100 work with all .357 revolvers? I think the 6 shot 686 and GP100 use the same speedloader. |
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So it's the frame's size that designates the lettering designation and not the caliber, correct?
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So it's the frame's size that designates the lettering designation and not the caliber, correct? View Quote yes N-45, 44, 41, 357 L 357, 44(new69) etc K- 22, 38, 357 etc J-22, 38 etc. the beginning number 6 usually indicates stainless 29 = 44 mag blue or nickle 629=44 mag SS 586 blue/nickle 686 SS |
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[img]http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/WinstonTheTrex/media/DSC00085_zps749babad.jpg.html?o=0[/img
686-1 |
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There are some beautiful revolvers in here. Wow.
I would try to sell you on the fact that you don't really need it to be a .357. And sell you on getting a K frame in 3" or so. Because you may want to carry it someday. I know, everyone wants more rounds..... But anyways... Or like someone said a 13 or 66 are K frames that are still chambered for .357. And you can find the rare 19 that has a short barrel. And they also make a 686 with a 2.5" barrel. There are several model 686's on the website currently that have a shorter barrel that might make a good carry gun. And still be probably a joy to shoot. Although I've never shot a 686. I'm newer to revolvers too. |
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Depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to shoot a lot of heavy loads then the L or N frame. The L and N frames weigh about the same. The N is a bit bulkier but really no problem for a holster gun. The older K frame 357 Magnum is really about the right size for the cartridge. The 158 gr loads are just fine in the K. The 125 and lighter can put wear on it faster. S&W has just released a 66-8 version that has a beefed up frame and should be good for the lighter bullets. I would seriously look at this one as the K can be a good CCW too.
Since you already have a GP100 there is no real rush to get another 357 Magnum. Look around and you can find a nice S&W 357 Magnum on your budget. Personally, I would go with the new 66-8. I would use it for CCW when I am fishing. They have been catching over 13 foot gators out of Lake Seminole lately. Might go to the M69 L frame in 44 Magnum. I live a block away from the Flint River at the top of the lake. |
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Spend more and get a 5" Model 27 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/phatmax/DSC_0097_zpsa52cc84e.jpg View Quote That is sexy as hell! I have a 6" pre-lock 686, and would love to have one with a 4" barrel to go with it. So I vote 586/686 too. |
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Depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to shoot a lot of heavy loads then the L or N frame. The L and N frames weigh about the same. The N is a bit bulkier but really no problem for a holster gun. The older K frame 357 Magnum is really about the right size for the cartridge. The 158 gr loads are just fine in the K. The 125 and lighter can put wear on it faster. S&W has just released a 66-8 version that has a beefed up frame and should be good for the lighter bullets. I would seriously look at this one as the K can be a good CCW too. Since you already have a GP100 there is no real rush to get another 357 Magnum. Look around and you can find a nice S&W 357 Magnum on your budget. Personally, I would go with the new 66-8. I would use it for CCW when I am fishing. They have been catching over 13 foot gators out of Lake Seminole lately. Might go to the M69 L frame in 44 Magnum. I live a block away from the Flint River at the top of the lake. View Quote It just dawned on me last night about the new 66. I forgot about it. If I as going to buy new, that would definitely be in the running. Might be kind of hard to choose between the 66 or a 686. They need to bring that one out with a 3 or 2.5" barrel. That would be sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. |
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It just dawned on me last night about the new 66. I forgot about it. If I as going to buy new, that would definitely be in the running. Might be kind of hard to choose between the 66 or a 686. They need to bring that one out with a 3 or 2.5" barrel. That would be sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to shoot a lot of heavy loads then the L or N frame. The L and N frames weigh about the same. The N is a bit bulkier but really no problem for a holster gun. The older K frame 357 Magnum is really about the right size for the cartridge. The 158 gr loads are just fine in the K. The 125 and lighter can put wear on it faster. S&W has just released a 66-8 version that has a beefed up frame and should be good for the lighter bullets. I would seriously look at this one as the K can be a good CCW too. Since you already have a GP100 there is no real rush to get another 357 Magnum. Look around and you can find a nice S&W 357 Magnum on your budget. Personally, I would go with the new 66-8. I would use it for CCW when I am fishing. They have been catching over 13 foot gators out of Lake Seminole lately. Might go to the M69 L frame in 44 Magnum. I live a block away from the Flint River at the top of the lake. It just dawned on me last night about the new 66. I forgot about it. If I as going to buy new, that would definitely be in the running. Might be kind of hard to choose between the 66 or a 686. They need to bring that one out with a 3 or 2.5" barrel. That would be sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. |
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