 John87
FBH0
Team Member
Joined: Mar 2011  PA, USA
 
 Posts: 2569 Feedback: 100% (12) |
Posted: 8/1/2012 12:01:11 PM
[Last Edit: 8/14/2012 11:11:21 AM by John87]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT EDIT: i picked it up. the serial number is preceded by an "A" like familyman357 thought. it is a no dash model, with the stamped "M" so it has been back to S+W for whatever reason. does anyone have any info on how to adjust the front sight? it appears to be set on 3, which from my research, is 75 yards. this is uncleaned, straight from the gun shop to my back yard and shot. the single action is indescribably sexy. the double action is ridiculously smooth. after shooting a few of my .38 hand loads through it to find where it was shooting, i shot the cap off this bottle at 25 yrds 
there is very mild discoloration/blemishing in the bluing on the side cover here, and it appears someone has been inside as the screw heads are marred 
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Posted: 8/1/2012 1:53:15 PM
[Last Edit: 8/1/2012 2:09:32 PM by familyman357]
586 no-dashes were made from 1981 to 1986. Are you sure about that serial number? S&W transitioned to a three-letter serial prefix and four-digit number between 1980 and 1983, but the L-frames (like your 586) were the earliest models to go to the three-letter prefix, starting in 1980. I don't know of any standard production guns that started with two letters. I think you're missing a letter in your serial number there. Your serial probably starts with an "A", right?
Presuming that your serial is AUM5xxx... according to Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (2nd Edition), January 1986 started with an approximate serial number of AHC1687 and July 1987 started with an approximate serial number of AVB8654 or AWW7874, so my SWAG is that your revolver is late 1986. However, S&W is (in)famous for not necessarily shipping in serial number order and, also, since serials weren't applied until shortly before shipping, frames might sit in inventory for quite a while before being serialled and shipped (S&W didn't necessarily use a first in = first out style of inventory management). What I'm saying is that your frame may have been manufactured in 1986 (or even earlier), but didn't get assembled into a revolver, get serialled, and get shipped until 1987. |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 2:10:45 PM
Originally Posted By familyman357:
586 no-dashes were made from 1981 to 1986. Are you sure about that serial number? S&W transitioned to a three-letter serial prefix and four-digit number between 1980 and 1983, but the L-frames (like your 586) were the earliest models to go to the three-letter prefix, starting in 1980. I think you're missing a letter in your serial number there. Your serial probably starts with an "A", right? Presuming that your serial is AUM5###... according to Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (2nd Edition), January 1986 started with an approximate serial number of AHC1687 and July 1987 started with an approximate serial number of AVB8654 or AWW7874, so my SWAG is that your revolver is late 1986. However, S&W is (in)famous for not necessarily shipping in serial number order and, also, since serials weren't applied until shortly before shipping, frames might sit in inventory for quite a while before being serialled and shipped (S&W didn't necessarily use a first in = first out style of inventory management). What I'm saying is that your frame may have been manufactured in 1986 (or even earlier), but didn't get assembled into a revolver, get serialled, and get shipped until 1987. according to the receipt i have from the gun shop, what i have above is the s#. when i pay the balance i can take it home and double check. this store is pretty good about not making any errors. |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 2:19:17 PM
[Last Edit: 8/1/2012 2:20:19 PM by familyman357]
Interesting. I'm not aware of any standard production S&W revolvers that started with a two-letter serial number.
When you get it, please post some overall pics of the revolver if you can. I'd like to see its configuration. It still doesn't sound right, but you learn to never say "never" when it comes to S&W.  |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 2:53:52 PM
Originally Posted By familyman357:
Interesting. I'm not aware of any standard production S&W revolvers that started with a two-letter serial number. When you get it, please post some overall pics of the revolver if you can. I'd like to see its configuration. It still doesn't sound right, but you learn to never say "never" when it comes to S&W. will do. im sure every gun company has a few oddballs out there |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 3:42:01 PM
Originally Posted By John87:
i just left a deposit on a 586(no dash) at the gun store today, and would like to know when it was made. the s# is UM5xxx. also, it has an adjustable front sight which i assume is aftermarket, so this gun was probably used for competition shooting. does anyone have any info on that? Smith made several with a 4 point adjustable front sight. I had one in a 6" and 8 3/8" both 686's. I think the 586 with Adjustable front sight is rare. |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 4:20:03 PM
Originally Posted By familyman357:
586 no-dashes were made from 1981 to 1986. Are you sure about that serial number? S&W transitioned to a three-letter serial prefix and four-digit number between 1980 and 1983, but the L-frames (like your 586) were the earliest models to go to the three-letter prefix, starting in 1980. I don't know of any standard production guns that started with two letters. I think you're missing a letter in your serial number there. Your serial probably starts with an "A", right? Presuming that your serial is AUM5xxx... according to Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (2nd Edition), January 1986 started with an approximate serial number of AHC1687 and July 1987 started with an approximate serial number of AVB8654 or AWW7874, so my SWAG is that your revolver is late 1986. However, S&W is (in)famous for not necessarily shipping in serial number order and, also, since serials weren't applied until shortly before shipping, frames might sit in inventory for quite a while before being serialled and shipped (S&W didn't necessarily use a first in = first out style of inventory management). What I'm saying is that your frame may have been manufactured in 1986 (or even earlier), but didn't get assembled into a revolver, get serialled, and get shipped until 1987. I see references to the "no dash" frequently. The dash with an M is part of a factory recall. See below from S&W: SMITH & WESSON MODEL 581, 586, 681, 686, or 581-1, 586-1, 681-1, 686-1 & 686CS-1, REVOLVERS RECALL: Reports have been received from the field where the combination of a SMITH & WESSON L-FRAME 357 MAGNUM REVOLVER and some .357 Magnum ammunition has resulted in unacceptable cylinder binding. L-frame revolvers bearing model numbers: 581, 586, 681, 686, or 581-1, 586-1, 681-1, 686-1, 686CS-1 Cylinder binding can cause a failure to fire. Mishandling a revolver while freeing the cylinder can result in accidental discharge. Cylinder binding can result from a number of causes, including characteristics of an individual revolver or the use of ammunition, which does not conform to industry pressure specifications or is particularly fast burning. Recent developments in ammunition manufacture emphasize the production of .357 Magnum ammunition with increased velocity and greater primer sensitivity. Although there have been very few reported incidents of cylinder binding, in view of our concern for our customer's safety and the reliability of Smith & Wesson products in all circumstances, we issue the following warning: In a situation where a failure to fire can be critical - such as law enforcement or personal protection - do not use .357 Magnum ammunition with an L-frame revolver bearing model numbers 581, 586, 681, 686 or 581-1, 586-1, 681-1, 686-1, 686CS-1 without an "M" over the model number until you have had the revolver modified. Those who need to use their L-frame revolver under these conditions prior to modification can safely fire .38 Special caliber ammunition. Smith & Wesson has developed a modification to improve existing L-frame revolvers. This improvement enables them to fire all .357 Magnum ammunition, without cylinder binding. Shipments of L-frame revolvers from our factory after August 21, 1987 already include this improvement. You can check if your revolver includes this improvement by looking at the left side of the frame when the cylinder is fully open. If your revolver has been stamped either with a "2" or higher number after the basic three-digit model number or with an "M" above the model number, your revolver includes this improvement and does not need modification. If your revolver bears the model number 581, 586, 681, 686, or 581-1, 586-1, 681-1, 686-1, 686CS-1 without an "M" over the model number, it does not include this improvement and your should have your revolver modified. Smith & Wesson will modify your L-frame revolver free of charge to eliminate the possibility of cylinder binding with .357 Magnum ammunition. Law enforcement agencies wishing to arrange for modification of L-frame revolvers should call 800-458-8469 between 9 A.M. and 6 P.M. Eastern time (MA residents call 413-734-8244). Other users should send their revolvers to a Smith & Wesson Warranty Service Center, specifying "L-frame improvement program" and enclosing their name and return address. One of the modifications to improve the L-frame revolver is the installation of a new hammer nose. This obsoletes all old L-frame hammer noses (part numbers 4702 and 7513) and all old L-frame hammer assemblies (part numbers 3366, 3378, 3380, 3382, 3391, 4722, 4723, 4726 and 4728) in field parts inventories. Superseded parts should never be fitted into a modified revolver as this may result in malfunction. It is essential for safety that you return these obsolete L-frame hammer noses and obsolete L-frame hammer assemblies for a free exchange to: Smith & Wesson Service Department 2100 Roosevelt Avenue Springfield, MA 01101 |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 5:48:02 PM
i do not recall this 586 having an "M" stamped on it, but then again it wasnt something i was looking for. would this stamp help or hurt the value?
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Posted: 8/1/2012 5:56:33 PM
Originally Posted By John87:
i do not recall this 586 having an "M" stamped on it, but then again it wasnt something i was looking for. would this stamp help or hurt the value? To anyone who does anything more than gaze affectionately at it, the recall work helps. The only person who might pay a premium for a non-fixed 586 would be a seriously hardcore S&W collector looking to find every possible variation.... and unless the revolver is almost mint, even he probably wouldn't pay much of a premium. |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 6:21:18 PM
Originally Posted By familyman357:
Originally Posted By John87:
i do not recall this 586 having an "M" stamped on it, but then again it wasnt something i was looking for. would this stamp help or hurt the value? To anyone who does anything more than gaze affectionately at it, the recall work helps. The only person who might pay a premium for a non-fixed 586 would be a seriously hardcore S&W collector looking to find every possible variation.... and unless the revolver is almost mint, even he probably wouldn't pay much of a premium. so it would be better off to have the "M", aye |
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Posted: 8/1/2012 10:28:23 PM
Yes, and if it turns out that your 586 hasn't had the recall work done yet, contact S&W. They'll take care of it.
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Posted: 8/8/2012 5:25:02 PM
updated OP with pics and info
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Posted: 8/8/2012 11:13:27 PM
[Last Edit: 8/8/2012 11:21:19 PM by familyman357]
Neat!
SCSW2 does mention in its section on the 586 that "an adjustable four-position front sight was available on the 6-inch and 8-3/8-inch barrels". In fact, S&W Product Code 103526 seems to describe your configuration: 6" B TS AF 86 (6" barrel, blued finish, target stocks [unfortunately, your gun no longer is wearing these], adjustable front sight, 1986). So, I'm going with the adjustable front sight being factory, albeit uncommon (it looks like it was discontinued in 1992). I couldn't give you any tips / tricks as I've never handled a S&W with that adjustable front sight. Since you've noted that the trigger pull seems exceptionally good and that it does appear that the sideplate shows evidence of being removed, it might be worth taking a look inside. S&W revolvers typically have pretty good triggers, but target / competition shooters have been known to pursue whatever they feel might give them an edge. It hasn't been unknown for them to snip coils on springs (or replace them with lighter aftermarket springs) to reduce resistance, back out the mainspring screw a bit to reduce tension on the mainspring, and even to thin the mainspring so that it flexes more easily. These modifications typically have the side effect of causing lighter-than-normal strikes to the primer; not a big deal for fun / competition, but it's something to look into / correct with replacement parts if you have any thought of using this revolver for self defense / hunting. A collector likely wouldn't be interested in your gun due to its cosmetics, but I wouldn't sweat it. It has enough "character" that I wouldn't be uptight about using it and using it a lot.... and that in itself has some value to me. Nifty revolver, thanks for posting pics! |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 11:47:09 PM
[Last Edit: 8/8/2012 11:48:41 PM by John87]
Originally Posted By familyman357:
Neat! SCSW2 does mention in its section on the 586 that "an adjustable four-position front sight was available on the 6-inch and 8-3/8-inch barrels". In fact, S&W Product Code 103526 seems to describe your configuration: 6" B TS AF 86 (6" barrel, blued finish, target stocks [unfortunately, your gun no longer is wearing these], adjustable front sight, 1986). So, I'm going with the adjustable front sight being factory, albeit uncommon (it looks like it was discontinued in 1992). I couldn't give you any tips / tricks as I've never handled a S&W with that adjustable front sight. Since you've noted that the trigger pull seems exceptionally good and that it does appear that the sideplate shows evidence of being removed, it might be worth taking a look inside. S&W revolvers typically have pretty good triggers, but target / competition shooters have been known to pursue whatever they feel might give them an edge. It hasn't been unknown for them to snip coils on springs (or replace them with lighter aftermarket springs) to reduce resistance, back out the mainspring screw a bit to reduce tension on the mainspring, and even to thin the mainspring so that it flexes more easily. These modifications typically have the side effect of causing lighter-than-normal strikes to the primer; not a big deal for fun / competition, but it's something to look into / correct with replacement parts if you have any thought of using this revolver for self defense / hunting. A collector likely wouldn't be interested in your gun due to its cosmetics, but I wouldn't sweat it. It has enough "character" that I wouldn't be uptight about using it and using it a lot.... and that in itself has some value to me. Nifty revolver, thanks for posting pics! it is a shame the wood furniture is missing, but i have to say, i do love these pachmayr grips. this gun does need a good cleaning, spinning the cylinder i can tell there is some grime in there. i went to take the side plate off for a peak, i took the screws out and couldnt get the plate off(i didnt want to pry too hard). i really have no interest of parting with this gun, but was just curious of the collector aspect. i put a few reloads through it and looks like i am getting very decent primer strikes. question: there are some numbers on the crane itself. what would these be? they are g14 and 56679. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 12:40:45 PM
Yeah, don't pry on the sideplate. The sideplate can get bent and there's a little tab toward the top of the sideplate. When I remove a sideplate (which is pretty much never), I remove the grips. I then remove the sideplate screws (there are three of them on your 586). I then hold the revolver on its right side (sideplate down) with my hand under it in position to catch the sideplate while I rap the side of the butt with a plastic-tipped hammer a bunch of times. The vibrations slowly dislodge the sideplate without stressing it.
I'm not sure about the "56679", but the "G14" on the crane should be an assembly number. The numbers are stamped on various parts of a gun to keep parts fitted to a specific gun with that gun throughout the assembly process. You should find those matching assembly numbers on the yoke/crane, frame (side of the butt, typically), and inside the sideplate. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 12:43:46 PM
Originally Posted By familyman357:
Yeah, don't pry on the sideplate. The sideplate can get bent and there's a little tab toward the top of the sideplate. When I remove a sideplate (which is pretty much never), I remove the grips. I then remove the sideplate screws (there are three of them on your 586). I then hold the revolver on its right side (sideplate down) with my hand under it in position to catch the sideplate while I rap the side of the butt with a plastic-tipped hammer a bunch of times. The vibrations slowly dislodge the sideplate without stressing it. I'm not sure about the "56679", but the "G14" on the crane should be an assembly number. The numbers are stamped on various parts of a gun to keep parts fitted to a specific gun with that gun throughout the assembly process. You should find those matching assembly numbers on the yoke/crane, frame (side of the butt, typically), and inside the sideplate. thanks. i did remove the grips and screws, but no luck. i will have to tap it with a plastic hammer like you suggested. and i will be sure to have a look to see if the g14 is found elsewhere. thank you for all your help. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:39:09 PM
[Last Edit: 8/9/2012 3:41:25 PM by Sheldon]
The front sight is made to be preajustable for elevation at different ranges....probably 7, 15. 25, and 50 yards from the 4 allen screw holes on the top of the sight. You need an allen wrench to adjust the sight for elevation at each of the dial positions of the wheel. Then you just turn the wheel/dial to the range you happen to need. I'm sure there is an order to which spot and allen screw is adjusted for the given range.....don't know what that is...sorry.
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Posted: 8/11/2012 4:31:19 PM
Originally Posted By John87:
Originally Posted By familyman357:
Yeah, don't pry on the sideplate. The sideplate can get bent and there's a little tab toward the top of the sideplate. When I remove a sideplate (which is pretty much never), I remove the grips. I then remove the sideplate screws (there are three of them on your 586). I then hold the revolver on its right side (sideplate down) with my hand under it in position to catch the sideplate while I rap the side of the butt with a plastic-tipped hammer a bunch of times. The vibrations slowly dislodge the sideplate without stressing it. I'm not sure about the "56679", but the "G14" on the crane should be an assembly number. The numbers are stamped on various parts of a gun to keep parts fitted to a specific gun with that gun throughout the assembly process. You should find those matching assembly numbers on the yoke/crane, frame (side of the butt, typically), and inside the sideplate. thanks. i did remove the grips and screws, but no luck. i will have to tap it with a plastic hammer like you suggested. and i will be sure to have a look to see if the g14 is found elsewhere. thank you for all your help. i did find the g14 under the grips, so the gun is all parts matching |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 12:58:58 AM
This gun was meant to be used in silhouette competition. Hunter's Pistol Silhouette is 25, 50, 75 and 100 yards. International Handgun Metallic Silhouette is 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters, I think, but I've never shot it and could be mistaken. The front sight allowed shooters to zero at te four ranges and change quickly. By the time s&w made this gun, few people were still using revolvers, the serious people were using single shots. They made 44 magnum versions, too. I've always wanted one, but when I see them they're too pricey. Great gun, congrats!
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Posted: 8/12/2012 2:29:59 AM
Originally Posted By MarkFlier:
This gun was meant to be used in silhouette competition. Hunter's Pistol Silhouette is 25, 50, 75 and 100 yards. International Handgun Metallic Silhouette is 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters, I think, but I've never shot it and could be mistaken. The front sight allowed shooters to zero at te four ranges and change quickly. By the time s&w made this gun, few people were still using revolvers, the serious people were using single shots. They made 44 magnum versions, too. I've always wanted one, but when I see them they're too pricey. Great gun, congrats! basically all ive been able to gather is that it was a silhouette gun. thanks for the info. so this would be the hunters version or international? and i think the price was right on this, it was 618 after tax and transfer, out the door. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 8:15:21 PM
[Last Edit: 8/12/2012 10:44:15 PM by MarkFlier]
There was only one version. The screws in the front sight allow you to zero it at whatever range you choose. I think there would be enough adjustment to get to 200 meters, but few people used the .357 at that range. They used the Dan Wesson .357 Maximum or used a larger revolver, like a .44 magnum. The hunters pistol targets were one half the size of the international versions since the distance was half. I believe they were made from 1/4 inch steel. There was a smallbore hunters pistol that used the same target sizes, but of a lighter steel, say 3/16 inch. It was rimfire only, including .22 magnum. Many people used the .22 magnum for both, because with the thicker targets, you'd only lose a hit target if it was a really weak hit, like a foot or a very low belly. I'd pick one up for that price, but I usually see them in the $900 to $1100 range. Mostly because the few people who get them treat them like collector pieces, which is really what they are at this point. More than anything, I like the undercut front sight, and you rarely see that on any of the standard guns.
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