For those of you who have done it, still a complete nightmare?  My bosses boss is asking if I can do it.  I have an MGW PRO, so I could easily get the 1911 plate and use that.  However, I have heard that these things are absolutely insane to remove, to the point where people usually just end up mucking up the slide.  The MGW pro also presses on the blade of the front sight, which may be a problem for an extremely tight front.

I've done it the traditional way of locking it into a vise and using a hammer and punch, before I got the tool as well, but never on a Kimber.  Is this just going to be a cluster?

i had no problem moving sights on my kimbers i think some people just dont know what there doing.

It's easy enough.  Just put it in a padded vice and wail on it with a punch and hammer.

Drive the sight out the side with the ejection port, the dovetail is slightly tapered.

Tell me you're not serious.

Kimber sights are really tough to get out, I tried removing my sights and just gave up and I beat the hell out of it trying to get them out, in the end I sent it to Kimber to remove and install my new sights.

I had my sights replaced on a Kimber Classic and they were a bit(%, there was rust under them front & rear.

You can do it with a hammer and punch but now, unlike in the distant past, you can get a decent sight pusher for under $50, and having the right tool for the job make the job MUCH easier.

This one from D&D machine cost me $44, it has blocks to work with a variety of pistol slide shapes and it works great on Kimbers.

sight pusher

In fact, I don't really recommend the hammer and punch approach for a Kimber as the rear sight also retains the spring for the firing pin safety, and you have to hold it in place while you move the rear sight into the dive tail.  That's much easier to do with a sight pusher than with a hammer and punch.

Also, if you are installing a tritium night sight, be advised the tritium is gaseous and using a hammer and punch can crack one of the tubes, releasing the tritium in fairly short order.  If you're working with night sight, a sight pusher is pretty much required.

When you consider that most shops charge between $25 and $50 to install a set of sights, $40 for your own tool is a bargain.

I broke my sight pusher like that link above, and gouged the slide when it let go.  
Ended up using a AK barrel pin punch in a 12ton press to get them to move.

Which way were you trying to move it?

Dove tails are slightly tapered and every thing goes in from right to left (looking the direction you'd shoot it) and goes out from left to right.  Try to do it the other direction and you have to move a fair amount of metal to get it done.

If you were pushing it in the right direction, it was either a very poorly made sight pusher, or you're one of those rare souls who has the magic touch needed to break an anvil.  

left to right
it was just a very tight dovetail, and just the rear sight.
I wonder if more of that brand had problems, brownells stopped carrying them.

Most tools are only as smart as the person using them, and they are not idiot proof.

With any sight pusher, you need to push the sight down near the base of the sight rather than in the middle of the sight or blade.  Pushing too high on the sight creates a longer moment arm that will tilt the slide slightly and create both a horizontal and vertical vector as it tries to push the sight out of the dovetail.  That greatly increases the force required and with a big enough wrench and a poor setup of the tool, you'll break something.  

If the slide starts to rotate at all, you need to reset it and ensure it is better secured in the blocks, and ensure you are pushing on the base of the sight as close to the slide as possible.

I have a sight pusher and got the sights off my Grand Raptor and Stainless Target to remove the schwartz safety very easy.