 |
Posted: 2/29/2012 8:24:08 PM
I have a series one classic custom that I had problems with and I took a 3/8 inch dowel rod with 1000 grit sandpaper, wrap the sandpaper around the rod, and lightly hand sand it until you get a nice smooth finish. Be wary of sanding too much, and be sure to maintain the right angle. I also invested in some wilson combat magazines. (I bought the etm's, but most others swear by the 47d's) My kimber is now reliable and I'm no longer pissed at it. After reading about your problem, I too think that you need a new spring, I think the wilsons are good also.
|
|
|
|
JBlitzen
Member
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2006  NY, USA
 Posts: 18735 Feedback: 100% (12) Link To This Post |
Posted: 3/10/2012 9:06:56 PM
[Last Edit: 3/10/2012 9:07:22 PM by JBlitzen]
What specific spring and weight do you guys recommend for the Pro CDP II?
(And, come to think of it, how do you replace the captive spring?) |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/13/2012 11:57:17 PM
The factory spring weight on the Kimber pro series is 18#. If you are like me and you shoot a lot of the heavier ammo like 230gr ball and hollow points I would highly recommend the wolf extra power spring set. It is a 21# and includes a firing pin spring. I had feeding problems on my pro cdp 2, pro carry 2 and tactical pro 2. Using the extra power spring set solved the issues on all 3 of these pistols. Also remember that the recoil spring should be changed out every 800 rounds per Kimber. The wolff extra power springs tend to last a little longer but not by much. The part number for the wolf spring set is 32725. I would recommend buying several to keep on hand. Hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
JBlitzen
Member
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2006 NY, USA
Posts: 18813 Feedback: 100% (12) Link To This Post |
Posted: 3/14/2012 12:34:43 AM
That does help, thank you.
What kind of behavior would that cause with low power practice rounds? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2012 1:05:06 AM
[Last Edit: 3/16/2012 1:05:26 AM by WellArmedAmerican]
The general rule is that lighter loads require lighter springs and heavier loads require heavier springs. You really shouldn't have any problems shooting lighter loads with the extra power springs. If by some chance you do have problems then you could always keep a spare guide rod assembly with the factory 18# spring and just change it out when you want to shoot really light loads.. I almost always use 230gr or 185gr bullets in my Kimbers and the only time they have problems is when I go a while without changing the recoil spring. Just replace the recoil spring every 800-1000 rounds with the wolff extra power springs and you should be fine.
|
|
|
|
JBlitzen
Member
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2006 NY, USA
Posts: 18860 Feedback: 100% (12) Link To This Post |
Posted: 3/16/2012 1:22:47 AM
Thanks, I ordered a couple Wolff 32725 "IMPROVED XP" springs. Sounds like my spring's wearing out.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2012 8:51:34 AM
Let me know how it works out for you. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2012 11:52:03 PM
And just to correct myself the factory spring weight on the pro model is 22# not 18#. I was thinking of my stainless ultra carry 2. The ultra models come from Kimber with 18# recoil spring. The wolff springs you ordered should be 23# or higher.
|
|
|
|
Arms_Reach
Member
Team Member
Joined: Aug 2008 VA, USA
Posts: 2418 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 3/17/2012 7:04:16 PM
[Last Edit: 3/18/2012 11:16:19 PM by Arms_Reach]
The spring arrived yesterday. On the site, I ordered a spring that was referred to as "improved". The labeling on the package describes it as "extra power". It is longer than the one that was in the slide when I bought it. I will say that I am pleasantly surprised that there is a firing pin spring included. I hope to give you guys a range report tomorrow. I will be thrilled if this solves my problem.
ETA: It would be nice for Wolf to indicate what weight the springs are before purchasing or on the package. ETA2: Begrudgingly, I ran out of time to make it to the range today. I really want to get out there during this week. Hopefully I'll find my way before the weekend. Can't wait to give an update. I'm optimistic, I really want this to be a solution, and with the (undetermined) weight of this new spring I think it will be! I just hope that it doesn't make the gun operate too clunky. For a frame of reference, I'll begin the session with the old spring for 50-100 rounds, then I'll switch. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2012 3:05:38 PM
Glad you finally got it. Wolff doesn't put the load rating on that spring set for some reason. They do put the load rating on the spring set for the ultra models. Hopefully this will solve the slide not closing problem that you have been having.
|
|
|
|
Arms_Reach
Member
Team Member
Joined: Aug 2008 VA, USA
Posts: 2436 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 3/25/2012 3:00:09 PM
[Last Edit: 3/25/2012 3:07:45 PM by Arms_Reach]
Update:
Finally got to the range! Not a single issue in 300 rounds with the slide not closing! I ran the first 50 rounds with the old spring in and had 3 failures. Then I swapped out the spring and fed 300 downrange. I was worried that the heavier weight spring wound make the gun "clunky". It is a bit heavier close, but it doesn't adversely affect my target acquisition. I don't know if it was just the 50 warm up shots or the new spring but it seemed to get back on target faster.. I dunno, but I like the operation better. The gun seems to come down faster for follow-up shots. 
... There is a new issue. 
I had this happen on three rounds mid way through a mag, The gun went into full battery chambering a round, but I could not pull the trigger. This was during slow deliberate fire. The hammer was completely back and the grip safety was depressed. Each time I removed the mag and manually cycled the slide to remove the round. After reinserting the same mag and racking the slide it would fire as expected. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/25/2012 7:34:40 PM
Originally Posted By Arms_Reach:
Update: Finally got to the range! Not a single issue in 300 rounds with the slide not closing! I ran the first 50 rounds with the old spring in and had 3 failures. Then I swapped out the spring and fed 300 downrange. I was worried that the heavier weight spring wound make the gun "clunky". It is a bit heavier close, but it doesn't adversely affect my target acquisition. I don't know if it was just the 50 warm up shots or the new spring but it seemed to get back on target faster.. I dunno, but I like the operation better. The gun seems to come down faster for follow-up shots.
... There is a new issue.
I had this happen on three rounds mid way through a mag, The gun went into full battery chambering a round, but I could not pull the trigger. This was during slow deliberate fire. The hammer was completely back and the grip safety was depressed. Each time I removed the mag and manually cycled the slide to remove the round. After reinserting the same mag and racking the slide it would fire as expected. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? Couple of thoughts come to mind. Did you mess with the overtravel screw in the trigger at all? Or, it may have worked its way just enough out of spec to intermittently cause this failure. Simple fix is to use the proper sized allen wrench to get the trigger back into spec. 1st ensure the gun is not loaded and no magazine is in the gun. Use a #2 pencil that has a new eraser or barely used and place in the barrel, holding the gun straight up. Pull the trigger and the pencil should shoot straight out. Look at the eraser and there should be a solid indent from where the firing pin struck. The other thought is that the Schwartz safety is out of spec. Ensure that the gun is unloaded and remove the slide. With the guns hammer fully cocked, press the grip safety in. Look and inspect to see that the small arm that rises up and presses in the firing pin stop moves freely up (when the grip safety is pressed in). It will freely fall back down when no pressure is on the grip safety. Also inspect to see if this arm is peened or if the hole it resides in is misshapen. Also look at the firing pin stop plunger in your slide to see if there is excess ware or peening. If it is or the arm does not move as stated above you may have had a Schwartz safety issue all along. Meaning when your slide would not return to battery this arm was protruding enough to reduce the return of your slide to battery. With the newer and more powerful recoil/return spring it temporarily overcame this issue until now. I would also fully disassemble the ignition components and inspect this arm. It may have broke, and when things align just right jams up the gun and other times, sits back down (Less likely, but worth a look). While all these parts are out clean, lightly lube and reassemble. |
|
|
