This is a picture guide for detail stripping an HK USPc9 V1. I'm sure most of the other variants will be very much the same except the LEM models. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have or even add tips or anything else you feel might help people out. If there is something that you cant figure out or doesn't make sense please post.

I highly recommend having your HK Operators Manual on hand before starting any project like this. Inside that manual there should be exploded parts diagram. I should also say that I am not an HK armorer or any kind of professional gunsmith, so that means I will not assume any responsibility if you break your gun. As far as I'm concerned this is for informational purposes only(everybody always has to say that kind of thing).



1. Here are the only tools that I used for the break down. A small pair or tweezers and and small allen wrench I used as a punch. The HK manual has a nice exploded parts diagram that is an excellent source for parts placement and part names.



2. Punch the lanyard loop pin and remove the lanyard loop insert and hammer spring. The hammer spring is pushing against the loop insert, so hold onto it so it doesn't go flying. The little bar hanging down inside is the hammer strut, just let it hang it cant/wont come out at this point. Removal of the spring removes the tension from the hammer and is required if you want to dig into the hammer box area.



3. This picture shows removal of the sear axel(pin) disconnector, catch, part of the sear and dent plate. Push the pin out like shown in the pic, however keep a finger over the disconnector because it is under light spring tension and also keep a finger over the dent plate because it is under spring pressure to. I usually cup my hand over this whole area when pushing out the pin to keep anything from flying off. After the pin is pushed all the way out most of these parts will be loose now and can be lifted right out.



4. This pic show the parts that will basically drop out after pushing the pin. The only part that wont just drop or lift out is the sear which is below. These parts are in order. Part #37(considered part of the sear) is kind of connected to the catch. #37 has a small pin that inserts into the catch. You will see exactly what I'm talking about when you pull the out.



5. Picture 5,6 and 7 all go together. It shows removal of THE sear. The sear in held in by the flat spring(#26).



6. The flat spring(cant be seen yet) pushes the sear against part of the hammer. It can be somewhat difficult to remove. The sear needs to be removed. I found that using the tweezers or even needle nose pliers to kind of pry and lift it straight up and out.


7. In this pic I show what happens as you pull the sear out. Note the position of the control lever and hammer. Both hammer and control lever will drop into about this position because the tension from the flat spring is no longer being applied to the sear and hammer. The flat spring will now be visible(not in the picture) and will stay right where it is.



8. Move the control lever into this position.



9. And pull the lever out.



10. This pic shows removal of the hammer axel. It can be a bit tricky to get out, but I have found that if you try and slide the hammer side to side it will somewhat move the hammer axel and if you move the hammer back and fourth just right it will get the axel to stick out just enough to get tweezers or needle nose pliers around it to pull it out. All you really need to do is find a way to pull it straight out.




11. The control lever and hammer axel are really the only things holding the hammer in. So once you have pulled the control lever and pulled the hammer axel then hammer will lift out. However pay attention to the trigger bar arm. the trigger bar leads back under the hammer and hammer axel area. Under the trigger bar is a small pin and spring(trigger bar dent #32) that is pictured in the following pictures. When you remove the axel and hammer this pin will push up a little bit on the trigger bar. It might be a good idea to pull the axel and hammer out with a newspaper bag over it so you wont have that little pin go flying off. Mine really isn't under that much pressure so I don't think it would really fly off anywhere but you never know.



12. The trigger bar will just swing out of the way. It is still attached up by the trigger itself.




13. Here you can kind of see the flat spring still in place on the left, but I was more trying to focus on the trigger bar dent pin. The trigger bar dent pin and spring are attached to each other and sit in a little hole in the frame. Just lift the pin and spring right out. Note- you can see the top of the hammer strut in this pic, it is right below the trigger bar dent pin.



14. I was just showing what you will see. The dent and spring lift right out. The dent and spring are no longer applying tension on anything.




15. This is the last part to come out it is the hammer strut(#50). It is not attached to anything and will also lift out the top. This is the part you have been hearing rattle around inside your grip.



At this point you have removed most all critical parts that deal with the hammer and action area of the pistol. I would recommend giving a good cleaning to all these parts and re-oil or grease everything before putting it back together. Some of the parts on these pictures appear shiny and polished......that's because they are. I broke my pistol down and polished all the major parts and re-oiled everything.

I call it the "hammer box", but who cares

Nice pictures.  It looks like you lube it with motor oil.

I have wanted for awhile to do a video on stuff like this, but don't have a good digital camcorder to do it.

Maybe I will just let this one go. Unless anybody really wants notes and comments about this I'm not going to bother. No real intrest, so I wont waste my time. But if you have questions IM me or post here.


Thanks

Quoted: No real intrest, so I wont waste my time.

Well, I wouldn't say that, IMO.    

I learned A LOT from reading the Beretta 92 disassembly video tacked up. I would imagine I would learn just as much about my USP's as well. I do wish you might edit your OP & add some commentary on each pic as to "do this, turn here before removing, DON'T do THIS, etc. etc."

FWIW, thanks for the pics, sir!    

Great pics. Please keep posting!

I own several USPs and have never done a disassembly to this level. This is very helpful.

Ok ok. you all had mee fooled. I didnt think anybody was looking. I'm at work now, but I'll begin adding my notes later tonight. Thanks guys!.

Please note on pics #12-15...........    

I'm not done yet. I only updated about 1/2 last night. I'm waiting for my GF to leave for work so I can finish up. I keep re-reading everything to make sure it is easy to understand for somebody trying this the first time........which isnt as easy as it sounds with out writing a damn book.



If any of you guys have something I missed ot a tip or just any thing that you think might be helpful please post it.

Bump for being finished for now. I might add a few little things down the road, and I might even take more pics.....but that wont be until next week probably.

Nice job, best how to on this procedure I've seen so far. I haven't been past step 1. yet, but maybe now I can see inside mine.

Mike

Thanks!

and I'm bumping this for somebody who lurks.

Awesome write up! It really helped me out. I saved the whole post to my computer in case the tread ever goes away.

I plan on keeping it bumped so it doesnt end up in the archives. I'm glad I could help!

Thanks for the useful post!

The Bald Monk

Did you polish just the top of the parts? If not where do you polish and on what parts for the better trigger pull? Did you use a stone or a polish wheel?

Sorry for all the questions

Thanks for the great write up. Will save it.

Sticky!  

This needs a tack!

IM sent.

All of the parts in picture 4 are mainly what need to be polished if you choose to. This will not really change the trigger pull but will smooth out what you currently have. I polished all sides of those parts. I just used fine steel wole and polishing compound and alot of elbow grease is all. I spent a few hours breaking it down and wiping everything clean then polishing main contact points. Take your time and dont use any power tools, also making sure to clean everything you polish before you put it back together. Even a little bit of compound in the wrong spot might make your trigger feel gritty.

I polished all the parts in pic4, along with to top curvy end of the hammer strut, and the tips of the trigger bar. I went ahead and polished the dent pin, but I dont really think that would really need it.

The polish I like to use is Hoppes Gun Polishing Compound.

good stuff. thanks a lot. i appreciate the info.

Excellent post. This one should be tacked.

If a mod wants to tack this, feel free. I have no problem with that.

+1

Very nice.

I learned how to do this after I bought my compact. Anyone know how to break down the slide?

If its the same as on my full size, its very easy. Use a punch and gently tap out the pin closest to the extractor. Put your finger over the extractor while you remove the punch (which would now be in place of the pin). Than out will come the extractor and spring. You'll be amazed how much burnt residue is in there.

Same goes for the firing pin, tap out the pin. Now the safety plunger on the bottom of the slide holds the firing pin in place still. You have to push down on the safety plunger slightly and than you will be able to remove the firing pin and spring. Keep your finger over the safety plunger as it is under a little tension. Once the firing pin and fp spring is out you can carefully pull out the safety plunger. Make sure when you take out the plunger you take note of its position, because it will have to go in the same way, or you wont be able to slide your firing pin and spring back in.

Easy enough right!

Yes, the slide should be very easy for the most part. The most difficult part will be getting the roll pins in and out. Most likely you will want spare/extra roll pins on hand before you take the slide apart. They dont go back in as easy as they come out.


ETA- Maybe I might add a picture detail strip guide on taking apart the slide and then maybe the trigger assembly.  hmmmm!?

Awesome. Thanks!

I've heard that before, but I've had to of stripped mine down about 5 or 6 times now and im still using the same roll pins. I've kept an eye on them, they haven't moved a bit either. Might be because I had my slide plated with metalife

ETA: Getting that trigger spring back in when putting the trigger assembly back together is a BIOTCH!

Yeah. YEAH. I just did that on my compact and Tac to see if the triggers are interchangeable...... to have a trigger stop on the compact. The answer is NO.

I just recently detail stripped my LEM group to replace a broken flat spring. The only real pain in the ass is putting it back together!

I, for one, would be very interested in a detail strip of the slide too. I need to do that soon to clean out my firing pin channel.

Doc