- 12 pound or so DA pull, 5 pound SA pull
- No control lever

This doesn't seem to correspond to any of the variants I can find.  Ultimately I'd like to convert it to V1.

Thanks!

da/sa with no control lever ? 


Sorry I have no idea but tag for a correct answer form someone else 

I don't find a DA/SA without a control lever on the charts.  Customized may be best description.   HKPRO.com thread about the possibility 

I was also considering the possibility that it may be some sort of LEM but it acts like a DA/SA.

I guess I won't know for sure until I tear it apart.

Any pics? Did you buy it new or used? You mention the first shot is DA and then goes to SA? Does the hammer stay in the rearward position after the first shot? Something doesn't sound right if it does.

When you rack the slide does the hammer follow back to a half cock position? And does the first shot feel like a long but light da revolver until you hit the wall then the break? After the first dry fire does it have a heavy 12lb pull until you rack the slide again?

If so it's probably an LEM at 6-7lb heavy LEM if it's 4-5lb it's light LEM.

If you rack the slide and hammer stays cocked back in single action it's probably a variant 1 that someone pulled the 1911 style safety/decocker. This is very unlikely since it's just unsafe.

I would put a trigger gauge on it after you rack the slide and see what the pull is and let me know how it operates. I used to be die hard variant 1 USP cocked and locked or sweep safety down to decock it to DA. Once I tried LEM trigger and learned what it took to shoot it well I love it. I then converted it to a hybrid match LEM at 4lbs and it's just an amazing trigger with a few spring changes.

You can also setup a USP to be Light LEM with a manual safety. I have many variants of each so any questions you have let me know.

When are you converting it to a 10mm

The hammer actually goes forward after racking the slide so I assume it's the LEM.

Yes it's an LEM gun then. Put a gauge on it when you get a chance and we should be able to tell what version LEM it is.
Great thing about the USP LEM is that you can do many variants of it. Look up Swiss LEM, match hybrid LEM, Todd green special, etc....

I have a match variant 1 fitted by HK in the USP tactical .45. It's exactly on the nose 4.5lbs and a very nice trigger break, no overtravel with very little trigger swing/movement. Shorter reset than a LEM also.

My light LEM mod consist of this combo. Light but not the match trigger return spring with a single action hammer/main spring, light fpbs spring along with the V1 match plated sear spring.
This gives me a long DA pull at 4lb's from beginning to end with a rolling trigger surprise break but not as short of a reset as the v1 match single action reset. I still need to tap the trigger for an overtravel screw but never gotten around to it.

Keep in mind a LEM only has its light pull after racking the slide. If you pull the trigger again without racking the slide again, you'll get a harder DA type pull.

Trigger pull in light mode gauges 7 pounds but it doesn't feel that heavy.  I didn't gauge it in long mode but I would estimate at least 14 pounds.   One of the worst DA triggers I've owned.  

I can see the attraction of keeping a light LEM mode.  In 98% of shooting situations you will never use anything but the light mode.  Primarily I wanted to convert to V1 because my USP 45 is set up that way as well as all the other USPs I've owned over the years.

Thanks for the replies so far!

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You actually have heavy LEM springs in it if it's at 7lbs. The only time you would ever actually fire a live round with the heavy 12-14lb is if you had a hard primer and needed the secondary strike.

LEM with the light springs is a thing of beauty when it's set at 4lb's. You will need to replace the trigger return spring, the firing pin block spring, and the hammer main spring. This is all very easy with a punch and under $20. You may have the light fpbs already depending on what year the USP was made. You really don't need to change the sear spring but if it's older gun this will be the weak link in the system. The match nickel plated sear spring does absolutely nothing in terms of weight it just makes it a little slicker inside. If the sear spring does break you will be stuck with a heavy pull but it will still function.

Thing that is so nice about this is that you can tweak the weight and reset feel by using different combinations of springs.

The light LEM conversion is 100% HK tested and proven so it's not just a range trigger.

I'm a bit mental and been drinking the HK koolaid to long so sorry for the long post I just like people to see how modular these triggers can be.

These are the part numbers and descriptions to convert heavy LEM to light LEM.

V1 DA/SA main spring  part number (214300)  You could actually try your 12lb spring from your V1 and it should be about 1/2 to 3/4 lb change in pull weight on your heavy LEM. Pull lanyard and swap springs only take you couple minutes to test. You can also go to a true match 10lb HK main spring but I don't since it's my carry gun.

Light FPBS part number (209296)
Your USP should already have the light fpbs if it's a 2005 or above (AE = 2004 AF = 2005 etc...). It's only a couple bucks so I would grab it to compare and make sure yours has this. Going from standard to a light fpbs only will give you 1/4 to 1/2lb every time on lymann digital gauge.

Trigger Rebound Spring part number (209266) this will be the tricky one to install but it's not bad at all. I put cut down coffee stirring sticks or you can use spray can plastic sticks to help the install. The spring will have two ends sticking out and you can put cut pieces of that stirring stick to help guide and compress the spring down into the frame. The correct tool to use on this installation is a needle nose pliers with the tip drilled out to create two rounded noses to hold and compress the spring down into frame. It's very very important that the spring lays exactly in line of it's notches or you will have a trigger that does not reset. Once you look down into your frame you will see how its aligned in it. Your gun should have a square looking coiled rebound spring instead of the traditional round wire coiled rebound spring. This is the biggest change in weight and will drop you down to the 4lb to 4.5lb weight.

Thanks for the info!  I think this gun is from around 2000.  I will probably install the light LEM springs.

Just a quick update here, I bought the springs MANIST recommended and installed them.  The striker block spring was actually heavier than the one already installed, so I didn't use it but the others brought the pull down to just under 5 lbs.

Thanks!

The slide looks to have an AA date code (year 2000), but the frame looks post 2006 based on the USP on the grip. AA era frames were marked Hk USP on the left side.
I suspect this was a police turn in and at some point the handle met some concrete and Hk replaced the frame.
Which is great because turn in guns usually have terribly scarred frames.

That's great! How do you like the trigger now? I'm thinking about trying the match/lem hybrid in my USPc compact .45. I love the light lem in my p2000.
I'm pretty sure mine was a tad under 4.5lbs after using the single action hammer/main spring. Either way it's so smooth from beginning to end then surprise break.
I got to try a USPc 9mm that had an LEM trigger with ambi safety like sa cocked and locked. That safety lever gave me a place to lay my thumb above like a 1911.  The compact .45 I have is a v1 da/sa with decocker so I'm thinking I may just leave the safety and install the LEM parts and install the detent plate that won't let it decock.

AA date code: 2000

I can certainly live with it.   I actually prefer it over DA/SA because I can just treat it like a striker gun and not worry about any safety levers.  The heavy second strike should never be necessary unless a primer fails to light or something.