Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Posted: 10/22/2015 6:32:29 PM EDT
I had a Ruger Mk II 5.5" Target drilled and tapped to accept a scope mount. It's an early model , not done by the factory.

This goober's work looks like something a kid did at the kitchen table. The rear most hole is close to center and tapped almost straight up and down. They get worse from there going forward.

The hole closest to the front sight is off center and sideways. 6-48 screws.

The end result is the scope rail is visibly cocked off center and there is no way in hell I'm trusting thumbilina with my pistol again so he can "fix it". Lesson learned.

Does anyone have a recommended gunsmith that can fix something along these lines? They can probably drill and tap the rear two holes for a larger diameter screw, but the front hole may have to be welded and start from scratch,

I want a piccattiny or weaver base low enough to use the target irons when they scope/red dot is removed. The mounting hole size is irrelevant to my goal.
Link Posted: 10/22/2015 7:22:50 PM EDT
[#1]
They have keenserts which screw into a large thread and have the smaller thread inside and lock in place. It will be noticeable and I'm not sure if you have enough room to work with a standard size insert.



If its as far off as you say a helicoil may not work because by the time you center the hole it may be oblong.
Link Posted: 10/22/2015 7:55:08 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
They have keenserts which screw into a large thread and have the smaller thread inside and lock in place. It will be noticeable and I'm not sure if you have enough room to work with a standard size insert.

If its as far off as you say a helicoil may not work because by the time you center the hole it may be oblong.
View Quote


will be oblong. A larger diameter hole will probably work for the rear two holes, the front hole will need to be filled and re-drilled.
Link Posted: 10/22/2015 8:46:50 PM EDT
[#3]
So my non gunsmith brain says the holes need to be welded up and new ones tapped. Sounds like it could get pretty expensive.

Your other option is to send it back to ruger. They could probably give you a mkiii gun or top end as a replacement and their prices are usually reasonable. Sucks if you are attached to your current gun.
Link Posted: 10/22/2015 9:07:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
So my non gunsmith brain says the holes need to be welded up and new ones tapped. Sounds like it could get pretty expensive.

Your other option is to send it back to ruger. They could probably give you a mkiii gun or top end as a replacement and their prices are usually reasonable. Sucks if you are attached to your current gun.
View Quote


Ruger won't replace serial numbered parts.

Maybe I'll contact the Rocky Mountain School of Trades. They have a gunsmith school that takes on restoration projects.
Link Posted: 10/22/2015 9:45:21 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Ruger won't replace serial numbered parts.

Maybe I'll contact the Rocky Mountain School of Trades. They have a gunsmith school that takes on restoration projects.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
So my non gunsmith brain says the holes need to be welded up and new ones tapped. Sounds like it could get pretty expensive.

Your other option is to send it back to ruger. They could probably give you a mkiii gun or top end as a replacement and their prices are usually reasonable. Sucks if you are attached to your current gun.


Ruger won't replace serial numbered parts.

Maybe I'll contact the Rocky Mountain School of Trades. They have a gunsmith school that takes on restoration projects.

They would probably sell you a replacement cheap is what I was getting at.
Link Posted: 10/22/2015 10:14:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Send an im to bigbore at ADCO.  The shop is in Sylvania Ohio.



He helped out a member who had a barrel buggered up.
Link Posted: 10/23/2015 1:39:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Send an im to bigbore at ADCO.  The shop is in Sylvania Ohio.

He helped out a member who had a barrel buggered up.
View Quote


Talked to him today. I've used him a lot in the past and he say's he needs to get it in his hands before he can tell me a price.

He has always been fast, reasonable and excellent. I'll order a quality scope mount and have him work his magic. I'll epoxy it in place once I get it back so any imperfections get permanently covered up.
Link Posted: 10/23/2015 2:44:36 PM EDT
[#8]

You should insist that the 'gunsmith' purchase or pay for a replacement model of the gun he destroyed.

As far as what can be done to repair it, I have had two friends that experienced the same exact buggered up, off centered and improperly spaced work on their MKII pistols. Welding the holes and starting over is will look the best but is obviously the most labor intensive, is it stainless or blued,  if it is blued it will require hot bluing again and depending on the filler metal used, the dissimilar metals may show in the bluing.


If you want cheap and relatively easy I would consider modifying your existing rail by adding your own new screw hole locations near the originals and re-drilling the receiver to allow mate this new pattern. I would shorten the rail on one end or the other if doing so will still accommodate your intend mounts and sighting device so that the rail can be shifted fore or aft to keep the botched holes from showing through stock rail hole locations.

If were to do this I would source a steel rail section if possible so that the new holes could be parkerized or blued to a perfect match, if you want to use an aluminum rail you can use Aluma Black or some other such product a pretty good result.


Link Posted: 10/23/2015 4:27:13 PM EDT
[#9]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:




You should insist that the 'gunsmith' purchase or pay for a replacement model of the gun he destroyed.



As far as what can be done to repair it, I have had two friends that experienced the same exact buggered up, off centered and improperly spaced work on their MKII pistols. Welding the holes and starting over is will look the best but is obviously the most labor intensive, is it stainless or blued,  if it is blued it will require hot bluing again and depending on the filler metal used, the dissimilar metals may show in the bluing.





If you want cheap and relatively easy I would consider modifying your existing rail by adding your own new screw hole locations near the originals and re-drilling the receiver to allow mate this new pattern. I would shorten the rail on one end or the other if doing so will still accommodate your intend mounts and sighting device so that the rail can be shifted fore or aft to keep the botched holes from showing through stock rail hole locations.



If were to do this I would source a steel rail section if possible so that the new holes could be parkerized or blued to a perfect match, if you want to use an aluminum rail you can use Aluma Black or some other such product a pretty good result.





View Quote
That's a good idea

 
Link Posted: 10/24/2015 11:49:42 PM EDT
[#10]
To prevent this kind of insanity I always ask a potential gunsmith where he used to be a machinist at.



If the first words out of his mouth aren't, "Well, I worked as a tool and die man at whoozahwatsits".  or "I worked in the tool room at so and so's", I walk.



If a man can't read a print or has no knowledge of manufacturing or toolmaking you are risking everything by taking your work to him.
Link Posted: 10/26/2015 10:50:38 PM EDT
[#11]
post up some pictures, we will be able to give you a better idea of how salvageable the firearm is
Link Posted: 10/27/2015 10:48:27 AM EDT
[#12]
THIS MAY WORK

http://www.jackweigand.com/rm2fd.html
Link Posted: 10/29/2015 7:42:00 PM EDT
[#13]
I shipped it to Steve Thompson @ ADCO yesterday with permission to do whatever he wants to fix it. I suggested modifying the base and going larger on the base screws, but left it up to him.

I have full confidence in him and his employees.
Link Posted: 11/1/2015 3:31:47 PM EDT
[#14]
Plug the holes, grind flush, refinish.

Have someone that knows what they are doing try again.
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top