I'm relatively new to firearms and have several SA pistols plus a couple of AR rifles. I have always used Hoppes #9 to clean all the parts on all the weapons then use a bit of oil to lubricate them. It's always seemed to work out though I can't say I'm a big fan of how the Hoppes smells.

I have occasionally used Gun Scrubber to try and get some of the more difficult-to-reach places clean on the AR but I'm not really sure it actually cleans. It just seems to strip all the oils out the metal and you have to make sure you lubricate well afterwards.

I have read numerous posts about cleaning with CLP or FireClean and so forth and thought I'd give FireClean a try. Maybe I'm new but I don't seem to get it . . . . or I'm doing it wrong.

I cleaned a weapon a week ago and tried to be careful with how much F/C I used while cleaning. After shooting the weapon today I broke it down and found oil splatter all over inside the gun. I began the cleaning process using dry patches to clean up all the oil and gunpowder residue sludge inside the gun. Then I used a lightly oiled patch to try and actually clean the gun like I did last time. Today though i followed this by using a dry patch to try and remove as much oil as possible. I then lightly lubricating the parts I normally would. I'm hoping that the next time I shoot there wont be as much sludge and oil splatter.

To me, it doesn't seem as though there's any advantage to an oil based cleaner . . . . . at least as far as process is concerned. With Hoppes it's: clean, lube, reassemble. With F/C it's: remove sludge, clean with F/C, dry clean the gun to remove oil (to reduce future sludge), lightly lube, reassemble. What am I missing or doing wrong?

As I understand it, the promise of using a F/C is supposed to be easier cleaning because the metal gets conditioned and gun powder and other residue doesn't stick. Wouldn't the same thing be accomplished by using F/C as the lube after cleaning with Hoppes rather then getting everything all oily and either a) shooting it that way resulting in all sorts of sludge afterwards or b) cleaning, drying cleaning to remove as much oil as possible then lightly lubing again?

Like I said, I don't quite see the vision of how oil-based cleaners are better then other options. Your advice is appreciated.

I'm a believer in using one product to do a specific job.
As example, to clean fouling from a gun I use a bore solvent.  It works much faster then any oil-cleaner and cleans deeper to get all the fouling out of hidden places.
It also removes copper fouling from the bore and muzzle attachments.
It does a far better, faster job of removing hardened carbon deposits from gas systems and muzzle attachments.

To lubricate I use a lubricant.
Some people use a third product to preserve a gun during storage when it's not used.

The reason for CLP and the other lubricant-cleaner products is so a soldier or civilian can carry one product in the field that will clean, lubricate, and preserve a gun without having to carry several different bottles.
A CLP will clean acceptably IF you use it correctly and give it enough time to work.
CLP's cleaning action is mostly that it will keep fouling soft and allow moving parts to "sweep" fouling out of the way and keep working.
These lubricant-cleaners will clean a firearm enough to keep it operating, but won't totally clean it.

In the case of the AR and many other semi-auto firearms the sludge you find is actually good.
The lube is keeping it soft and the action is pushing it out of critical areas.
If not for the lube's cleaning action all that would be hardened fouling that will cause a stoppage much sooner.

CLP will allow keeping a firearm running and clean enough in the field, but once back home you need to use a bore solvent to get it really clean.
Also note that CLP's have little to no effect on copper fouling.  This is not an issue in a chrome lined bore but is in a non-lined bore.

A bore solvent just does a better job, faster then any lubricant type product.
A dedicated lubricant does a better job then most combination products.
I personally suspect that "metal conditioning" sounds a lot like snake oil.
If any of these metal conditioners were really any good or a proven advantage the military would be using it.

I use Hoppe's #9 as a bore solvent and general cleaner.
I use CLP Breakfree as a lubricant and preservative.

Bottom line is to use a product and if it works for you...you're done.
I just think that to clean a gun I want a gun cleaner solvent.
To lubricate I want a lubricant.

Im pretty much doing the same. But after doing it that way for 25 years, Now I only use Hoppe #9 or any bore solvant like every second or third trip to the range.
I general use Breakfree CLP for bore cleaning and alittle on a toothbrush for the action.
The trick is after everything is wet with CLP, let soak for at least 15 mins. The carbon actually comes off better than with a bore solvant.
Then after the patches come out clean, I hose with Gunscrubber, dry. Then relube.

One thing I've discovered over the years with regards to handguns is that it doesn't take all that much to keep them clean. I field strip and clean mine every 1000 rounds and detail strip them every 5000 or so. I use Slip 2000 EWL and lube them before each session. I haven't used any sort of solvent in years. My cleaning kit consists of a boresnake, black rag, toothbrush, and Q tips.

This.



I have been using Hoppe's since I was probably six years old.  In the late 1970s, my best friend introduced me to Break Free as a lube.  That took over the position that Hoppe's gun oil once held.   With the exception of a couple of specialty guns, this is pretty much the combo I have used for the past 35 years or better.



If you have a very fouled bore, Sweets 7.62 will fill in where the others don't have the power to dissolve heavy copper fouling.  If you keep your barrels clean and leave just finest of fine coats of break free in your bore ( I mean finishing your cleaning regimen with an oiled patch followed by a tight dry patch ) then fouling shouldn't bother you too much.



I will admit to using Tetra Grease and Oil on my stainless guns.  This is a holdover from using Lithium grease with a few drops of Break Free back in the earlier days of stainless firearms.  It's just loaded with PTFE ( Teflon ) instead of a lithium soap based grease.  It's really not necessary as Break Free has plenty of PTFE in it of its own accord.



That is pretty much it.  There are one or two other specialty products that are good to have on hand if you work with a lot of different guns....a lot.  One is JB Bore Paste.  Sometimes, lead and copper are just a whore....and bore paste, a GOOD cleaning rod, jag and tight patches are the best way to get that fouling out.  The other is Kroil.  Kroil is a superfine petrochemical cut with a bit of ether.  The shit is amazing.  Mixed with a bit of bore paste on a patch you can get the toughest of tough fouling out if you do your part.  Remember this about Kroil: it smells heavily of eucalyptus and a little goes a VERY long way.  A one pint can should last you no less than ten years.  Like WD40 it is NOT an oil, it is a penetrant and cleaner.