Came across a .38 snubby, 2" brl with a bullet stuck in the barrel and still in the cylinder, (cylinder is frozen). The barrel has three (maybe 4?) more bullets stuck in it as well, first one is at the end of the brl.
How can these bullets be removed????

Rod & hammer

It's possible, but a real pain.  First, you've got to get the cylinder open.  Be very careful.  Eye protection and gloves are required safety measures.  You'll likely have to hit the cylinder very hard with a rubber or leather mallet to get it open.  Remove it from the gun.  I've failed several time in trying to get multiple bullets out of a barrel by just hammering them with a rod.  I suggest you carefully drill  a fair size hole all the way through the bullets before applying rod and hammer.  If they're lead bullets you might be able to do this by hand.  If they're jacketed bullet strongly suggest a drill press.  Use the shortest and softest (brass/ aluminum) rod possible to avoid damaging the rifling.  Good luck.

Reread his situation.
The bullet is lodged between cylinder and barrel....in the forcing cone.
It is a classic result of an undercharged or no charged case. Quite likely only a primer.

With the bullet lodged between cylinder and forcing cone, there is no way to "get the cylinder open". As the bullet is not inside the barrel it is a fairly simple problem to fix.

time for a gunsmith.

if the gun has large cyl gap  you could cut the bullet to get the cyl open. then set the gun up in vise and drill push the rest out into the cyl area.

Wow handy are you?  You could grind a simple spade drill bit from a chunk of brass rod and drill it out.  The brass would easily cut the lead but not damage the barrel.   Once you got most of the lead out that way the rest would likely fall out or be easily picked out with the end of a cleaning rod.

Use a smaller diameter rod and hammer it out to work harden the brass.
Shape and sharpen.
It will eat lead without much trouble.
It may snag on jacket metal but you can just pull the bit and the jacket out.

A brass sleeve on the round part of the rod will help center it up in the bore.

Rod & hammer don't move the bullets!   Maybe I just need a ten or twenty pound hammer what supports the gun?

A bullet (jacketed) is in the cylinder and forcing cone, to open the cylinder the bullet would have to be sheared in half???? I'm afraid hitting the cylinder that hard will damage the cylinder.

Pretty handy. This was the best answer so far. Just having a little trouble securing the gun so the bore is in line with the drill. I'll let you know what happens!

Lead flashing is your friend.
Mount a vice on the drill press table.
Line the jaws with lead flashing. The lead will deform enough under clamping pressure to give a good grip while avoiding any surface damage.
Make sure things are tight. Slipping is often what causes damage.
Clamp on the barrel.
You likely till have to rotate the table around the column and let the body of the gun hang off the edge for clearance.
Vice near the edge, barrel clamped on the outboard side of the vice.

A mill would be better, but a drill press should be adequate.
A sleeve on the rod that is a decent fit in the bore would go a long way to helping keep things aligned.
Put a dab of grease inside the sleeve to reduce friction on the shaft.

I would also soak the barrel with a thin oil. I would not hurt.

Kano Kroil

Slide hammer and long sheet metal screw should be able to pull them out.

Drill pilot holes to keep from excessively swelling the bullets.

You could also use a machine screw and tap, but it adds a step

Snap-On and probably others make an extractor kit that comes with bit pilots to help you drill centered, or you could just rig something, a drill press and vise would be ideal.

Just place a small rod down the barrel and tap with a hammer until the cylinder can open. It shouldn't be that difficult.

Steel screws and barrels are almost always the wrong answer.
Barrel steel is rarely all that hard.

Surprised nobody suggested removing the barrel first.  not easy with such a short barrel, as you need to clamp in such a way as to avoid the ejector rod, but it can be done... once loosened just a bit, can then probably be turned out by hand.  Colts usually aren't screwed in as tight as S&Ws...then carefully drive the bullet in the chamber mouth back to the point the cylinder can be opened.... removal of bullets in barrel as per previous posts....

Couldn't help but think.....how many live rounds in the other chambers?

I like a brass rod with a bushing for situations like this.  The bullets need to be driven back enough for the cylinder to free.  PM me a cell phone number or e-mail address for a picture.

This is why he needs a gunsmith. Unless you have the tools and talent to safely support the revolver and remove the barrel you can spring the frame.

Once the barrel has been removed the bullets could be pressed out or a new barrel installed. I would get a 3", but that's just me.

Make a mistake in supporting the frame and you end up with a torqued frame for the trash box.

Lead is easy to drill through using a flattened brass 'drill.'
You just need to make a crude 'flat' drill.
The hammering will harden the brass up nicely.
A sleeve to hold the shaft centered and you could almost use a portable electric drill.

Even without a sleeve it will not harm the barrel.

Many revolver frame fixtures require the cylinder to be already removed.

I saw this happen to a Ruger Super Redhawk when I worked at a shooting range.  First was a squib, then shooter kept firing, with the rounds backing up in the barrel until the cylinder locked up on the last bullet not clearing the forcing cone.

I took a rod down the muzzle, hammered on the lead bullet until they pushed the last bullet back into the cylinder.  Check after each strike; if you push the next bullet past the forcing cone, you are screwed.  Once the last bullet is back into the cylinder, the cylinder should be able to open.  Open the cylinder, and keep hammering the bullets out of the barrel until it is clear. If the bullet you tapped into the cylinder is stuck, hammer it out.

Using this method, you do not need to clamp the revolver.  Do NOT use a steel rod.  Brass or high density plastic is preferred. Set the Pistol on your work bench, heel of the butt on the bench.  wrap the support hand over the barrel, with your first two finger above the muzzle, holding the rod, your lower two fingers wrapped around the barrel, protecting the muzzle. This keeps the rod and pistol as a group, allowing you to rotate the pistol to look at the forcing cone without having to take the rod out of the barrel each time.

You can use whatever hammer you like; just bear in mind, your support hand will be taking the hit if you miss, to protect the pistol.

Use a dead blow hammer.

Try a jewelers saw to cut the bullet stuck in the forcing cone in half if and only if there is a gap.
Jewelers saw blades come in a varity of thicknesses and you may find one that will do the trick

A good smith would simply remove the barrel from the frame and then remove the bullets.

Trying to pound them out will damage the bore.   Brass can damage steel if you hit it hard enough or enough times.  Drilling is great...until you touch the bore.  

THe correct way is to have a pro remove the barrel.

Drilling with a brass drill is not about to damage a stel bore.

Brass can absolutely damage steel.   It will damage the brass more...but it will damage steel.

"Damage"?

Give us a break.
It can leave brass smudges on the surface but that is about it.
Even soft steel is still way harder than brass.