Sig P229R E2

Just replaced the factory guide rod with a GreyGuns Fat Stainless Steel guide rod.

This pistol had issues with a poorly fit barrel when new. Took 2 trips back to the factory to get the barrel replaced and since it's been perfect until now…

827th round was a Failure to Extract (since having the barrel replaced and no failures till this point).

Ammo SAA 115gr FMJ Remanufactured
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr

FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr

Extractor
Extractor by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
Extractor by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
Extractor by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr

The brass that did not extract yet was not stuck and fell freely from chamber.
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr

The bright spot on the case head just past the extractor groove is a gouge from the extractor
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
FTE by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr


Random brass from same trip Notice the bright spots on the case heads, all gouges from the extractor
Untitled by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
Untitled by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr
Untitled by Bill DoubleU, on Flickr


Ammo or extractor?

Last 56 rounds were without issue.

Reloads!  (Much to do about nothing.)    

If you own a caliper try measuring the area around the case head.  I don't think that case was fully sized.  If you're going to make a habit of shooting reloads then you should own a case gauge, and test every single one of them before going to the range.  At today's prices it doesn't make a lot of sense for anyone to get their ammo anywhere than at Walmart, or another of the large discount ammo suppliers.  

The gouges on the brass clearly show that the case was grabbed hard by the extractor.  It's difficult to tell from the picture; but, it appears the primer strike is off to one side - Which means that the cartridge wasn't fully chambered when it went off.  Right now I'm 99.9% certain it's an ammo issue.

I had bought a bunch of the SAA Remanufactured and BVAC remanufactured until I realized that the Walmart down the street was selling super cheap Perfecta so I am just shooting it up first. This is my CCW piece and after the initial trouble with the barrel fit it's been perfect. Which is why I get a little paranoid that it failed. I agree, I think it's ammo related but wanted to make sure.

Lots of the brass has gouge marks on them. Like it's hitting them past the rim/lip at the base. Also a noticed lots of them didn't have perfect center primer strikes either. Will have to confirm with different ammo.

I may need this case gauge. I got a lot of this stuff left.

After looking at more brass all the primer strikes are off center between my 229 and 226. The 226 is failure free though with 7k rounds through it.

Why did you change the guide rod?  I'd swap it back in and see if you have any failures.  If the gun (a SIG!!!) had fitting issues before, changing to an aftermarket part, especially one that has anything to do with the slide's movement, may be a problem.

The fat guide rods are typically gtg. Built to max tolerance to prevent spring binding. But I see your point.

It's been awesome in my 226. I'll have to see if it happens again. Should it happen again I'll swap back the guide rods and see if it happens after that. I hope it was merely ammo related. I like those fat stainless guide rods.

ETA: the fit issue previously had to do with an out of spec barrel. These 229's were built with the 40 in mind. When they rebarreled them to 9mm they had lots of issues with FTF/FTE. Basically the left side of the barrel block was milled down too much which took it out of alignment. Assuming the new barrel is in specs then the guide rod "shouldn't" be an issues and would most likely be ammo related if not extractor. But the guide rod may be the root cause but I'd have assumed it to be more prolific if it was. Previously I was having all kinds of failures and more frequently prior to the barrel change.

The history of this 229 as follows:
- 1st 200 rounds had 2 FTE and 2 FTB (failure to go into battery).
- 354 rounds good
- 1 FTB
- Springs replaced by Sig when I told them the issue was the barrel
- 2 FTE in the next 100 rounds
- back to Sig, new barrel
- 782 rounds good, guide rod changed
- 44 round on new rod and 1 FTE (826 rounds between failure, 1st on new barrel, 44th on new guide rod).
- 56 rounds without failure on new guide rod.

Looks like I'm gonna be shooting this a bunch to trouble shoot it. I go by ToddG's method of 500 rounds without failure to state it's life saving reliable.

100 more rounds of that SAA Remanufactured and no issues. Bill drills, Mozambique drills etc and good. That's 156 good rounds.

Another 150 through it no issues. Another 250 and it's again trust worthy and we will blame the ammo.

Another 165 of BVAC Remanufactured and I busted out 2 new Mecgar mags. All good so far.

What is with the bevel on the tp of the extractor.
It is useless.
The bottom of the hook needs the bevel.

A typical auto pistol, which includes Sig's modern lines, feeds the round into the extractor, rather than having the extractor snap over the rim.  There isn't a real need for a bevel on top or bottom of this particular extractor.  The top is relieved for ejection; it's not beveled.

Give the gun a good cleaning. I would drop the slide in a pan of mineral spirits for acouple of hours.Take a old tooth brush to the breech face.
Then take the slide out and put one drop of oil on the firing pin block, back of firing pin, and barrel lock up area.
If you what to continue to use grease on the slide rails, use less.
Grease attracts dirt more than oil. Alittle goes a long way.
Go back to the original guide rod. If you have over 2000 rounds on the recoil spring order a new one.
Use only factory new ammo from a major manufacturer.

Give the gun a good cleaning. I would drop the slide in a pan of mineral spirits for acouple of hours.Take a old tooth brush to the breech face.
Then take the slide out and put one drop of oil on the firing pin block, back of firing pin, and barrel lock up area.
If you what to continue to use grease on the slide rails, use less.
Grease attracts dirt more than oil. Alittle goes a long way.
Go back to the original guide rod. If you have over 2000 rounds on the recoil spring order a new one.
Use only factory new ammo from a major manufacturer.

From the gouging on the cases it looks to me as though the extractor nose is a bit too thick and not allowing the hook to get a full depth bite on the case rim. May I ask if you'd put a factory new round into the breach face under the extractor and see if you are in fact getting a full bite on the rim??

Haven't had an issue in the last 850-1000 rds but I'll give that a look. Thanks for the idea!