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Posted: 5/5/2015 12:46:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I've got an aluminum 1911 frame, problem is it came bead blasted, but I am useing a polished nickel slide. I was just going to polish it, but decided to go much more exotic. I research machine turning AL before when I wanted to do my harley motor (never got around to it) people said something like useing a pencil eraser and valve grinding compound. Any tips from anyone who has actually done it? I have no experience that can help you with this, but I believe what you are referring to is known as "jeweling" the surface, and I have never seen it done on aluminum. but that doesn't mean it can't be. do a google search for jeweled aluminum and see what you find |
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Posted: 5/5/2015 1:19:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Easy to do but nearly impossible to get it uniform looking.
You'll regret it |
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Posted: 5/6/2015 4:14:12 PM EDT
[#3]
Anodize and other surface finishes are very thin.
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Posted: 5/7/2015 5:43:47 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anodize and other surface finishes are very thin. Not going to be anodized. |
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Posted: 5/7/2015 10:32:03 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not going to be anodized. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anodize and other surface finishes are very thin. Not going to be anodized. It likely already is. The method of turning you are describing is used to increase surface area to hold more oil to prevent rust on steel. It is not required on aluminum. Anodize is used to increase the surface hardness on aluminum to provide more protection in use. |
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Posted: 5/7/2015 10:37:08 AM EDT
[#6]
It's actually a very forgiving process and not hard to get uniform even by eye. I use a drill press and any makeshift arbor with light sandpaper . The pencil and compound would take forever. Only issue is you need to coat it when your done or it will hold dirt and muck badly. I've done many custom car trim pieces this way but never a firearm ,compound corners may be an issue. Good luck to you
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Posted: 5/7/2015 10:51:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have no experience that can help you with this, but I believe what you are referring to is known as "jeweling" the surface, and I have never seen it done on aluminum. but that doesn't mean it can't be. do a google search for jeweled aluminum and see what you find Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've got an aluminum 1911 frame, problem is it came bead blasted, but I am useing a polished nickel slide. I was just going to polish it, but decided to go much more exotic. I research machine turning AL before when I wanted to do my harley motor (never got around to it) people said something like useing a pencil eraser and valve grinding compound. Any tips from anyone who has actually done it? I have no experience that can help you with this, but I believe what you are referring to is known as "jeweling" the surface, and I have never seen it done on aluminum. but that doesn't mean it can't be. do a google search for jeweled aluminum and see what you find Well I just searched for "jeweled 1911" Found this scroll down to the pic at the bottum. This guy jeweled just the flat sides, that gave me an idea, because I was trying to figure out how to wrap the pattern all the way around and up the other side. I think it'd look pretty cool bead blasted under the dust cover, trigger guard and front strap. Less work and looks pimp'n.  Also I found pics with jeweled barrel hoods and triggers.
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Posted: 5/7/2015 10:54:52 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's actually a very forgiving process and not hard to get uniform even by eye. I use a drill press and any makeshift arbor with light sandpaper . The pencil and compound would take forever. Only issue is you need to coat it when your done or it will hold dirt and muck badly. I've done many custom car trim pieces this way but never a firearm ,compound corners may be an issue. Good luck to you Give me an idea what you are talking about. Like how would I attach sandpaper (like a 1/4" circle) to a dowel or something? I've read about useing a wire brush or something. Maybe one of the erasers on those big fat jumbo pencils? |
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Posted: 5/7/2015 11:02:21 AM EDT
[#9]
3m spray adhesive. A wire brush works but wears and the bristles flare out over time ,makes for a less than perfect finish. I have only done this on flat surfaces and am having a hard time visualising around the near 90 degree bends. The secret to machine turning is to get your overlaps perfect. I would advise against trying this on a frame. But hey, you can always reblast it. Providing you don't go too deep. The last time I used a wire brush I wrapped the bristles close to the end really tight wire safety wire to keep them from spreading. This may be your best best for them corners.
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Posted: 5/7/2015 2:48:38 PM EDT
[#10]
Just keep in mind that aluminum is not a very hard metal without a surface coating.
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