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Got mine yesterday as well, I went for the 5" FDE. Haven't had a chance to fire it yet, did a lot of dry firing and while the trigger is much improved, my Apex'd out 1.0 was better.
Here are the changes I made as soon as I got home last night: -Pulled the manual safety out, S&W is sending me some FDE frame plugs for free. I forgot how much I hate the M&P external safety because of how far I choke up on the gun... -Swapped out the sear block for one that I had radiused and polished, and I polished the trigger bar ramp where it contacts the sear block. This eliminated all of the grit on the take-up. -Swapped out a spare Apex FSS trigger that I had. The trigger stop limited the travel too much, so I thinned up the rear of the Apex trigger on the mill until the sear would break with very little overtravel. (you need SOME overtravel for reliability) I kept the factory trigger bar spring, sear and sear spring. Trigger is now the best I've ever had in a polymer gun. I also knocked down the texture on the backstraps a tiny bit right in the thumb web and index finger base knuckle area. I like the texture, but it was a little too abrupt in the transition to the frame. A quick pass with a torch knocked off the fuzz so it all matches. I'll get some pictures and range results later |
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My 5" FDE is on it's way as I type. Should pick it up Monday. I emailed SW about the frame plugs.
Just got an email fro SW. Frame plugs are on the way. |
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Guys,
When ordering a holster for the 2.0 which prior model is closest to the same size? Many of the holster companies don't specify the 2.0 yet. Is it the VTAC? |
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I sold my 1.0 several years ago when the barrel twist issues were a problem. I saved the mags and have been waiting for a "stable" M&P9. This looks like what I've been waiting for. But I tried a 2.0 today and found the reset, while much improved, not to be very audible, which was disappointing. Maybe it's because it had a safety or was the 5" version, but I didn't fo.
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Note: Longer rails toward front of gun and there is a different spin on the sear where the trigger bar makes contact. View Quote |
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The tactile reset is EXTREMELY audible on mine.
The rails are not curved. It's the pic. I seriously hope you were joking right? Cp |
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You guys may have convinced me to pick on up. I just hope that someone will be making threaded barrels for the 5" 9mm (the FDE model). I've really started to have a thing for full-size service pistols.
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You guys may have convinced me to pick on up. I just hope that someone will be making threaded barrels for the 5" 9mm (the FDE model). I've really started to have a thing for full-size service pistols. View Quote APEX ETA: I see APEX is now listing the no-profile LCI's for the 2.0 that sit flush when a round is loaded instead of popping up. On the site they show a square head profile, but the 2.0 has a half-round notch in the barrel hood, so I'm not sure if they've made a change or if it clears the barrel hood. |
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APEX ETA: I see APEX is now listing the no-profile LCI's for the 2.0 that sit flush when a round is loaded instead of popping up. On the site they show a square head profile, but the 2.0 has a half-round notch in the barrel hood, so I'm not sure if they've made a change or if it clears the barrel hood. View Quote Is that barrel g2g in the 2.0? Isn't there a difference in the locking lug area? |
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Is that barrel g2g in the 2.0? Isn't there a difference in the locking lug area? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Is that barrel g2g in the 2.0? Isn't there a difference in the locking lug area? Barrels made for the 1.0 are good to go in the 2.0. Applicable To What Gun(s)
Works with all Smith & Wesson 9mm M&P pistols, including the M&P M2.0, requiring a 5.00” barrel. The only noticeable differences in the factory barrels are the size of the LCI, the front ramp on the hood and the feed ramp. Also: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_16/173966_MandP-M2-0-vs-MandP---Photo-comparo-galore.html |
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The S&W rep at the M&P armorer's course claimed the curved rails were for enhanced reliability.
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OK, as many have stated on other forums, the manual safety on the M&P is crap. While shooting at the range I literally involuntarily engaged it several times. They put it right over where your thumb goes so with recoil its not hard to nudge it, especially if your thumb is any thicker than a twig.
That damn thing has got to go. |
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OK, as many have stated on other forums, the manual safety on the M&P is crap. While shooting at the range I literally involuntarily engaged it several times. They put it right over where your thumb goes so with recoil its not hard to nudge it, especially if your thumb is any thicker than a twig. That damn thing has got to go. View Quote Can't shoot thumb over safety like on a 1911? |
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Picked one up last week (no external safety). Got out to shoot it today. Very impressed with it.
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OK, as many have stated on other forums, the manual safety on the M&P is crap. While shooting at the range I literally involuntarily engaged it several times. They put it right over where your thumb goes so with recoil its not hard to nudge it, especially if your thumb is any thicker than a twig. That damn thing has got to go. View Quote Mine was gone 5min after getting it home from the gun shop |
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Got my hands on one at a Bass Pro a couple weeks ago.
Just from playing with it in the store..me likey. Thanks for the extra affirmation with the range report OP Kinda glad I never got around to buying a 1.0 last year now |
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I tried to like my 9 FS 1.0
It came from the factory with a poorly finished barrel interior and feed ramp and a bad extractor. That coupled with the OEM trigger I had S&W fix it and sold it. I handled the 2.0 FDE 5" the other day and loved the feel of it. The stippling needs buffed down a little and the trigger is only marginally better. I will pass. |
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I tried to like my 9 FS 1.0 It came from the factory with a poorly finished barrel interior and feed ramp and a bad extractor. That coupled with the OEM trigger I had S&W fix it and sold it. I handled the 2.0 FDE 5" the other day and loved the feel of it. The stippling needs buffed down a little and the trigger is only marginally better. I will pass. View Quote A little polishing on the striker block and the trigger bar will get rid of all of the take-up grit, and a $40 Apex trigger will shorten the takeup, overtravel and reset. You don't have to swap out everything with a full kit to get a decent trigger. I did radius my striker block similar to how APEX does them. As for the grip texture, it's definitely a little aggressive, mostly around the edges where it transitions to flat surfaces. A little work with a blade or file will knock it down and a quick pass with a torch will get rid of the fuzz afterwards. |
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That would take my thumb out of alignment with my hand and also place my thumb on the slide. I don't believe in using improper shooting basics in order to compensate for flawed design View Quote What? You have never shot a 1911 before have you? There is nothing wrong with the design of the safety in relation to the gun or where your thumb would reside if shooting, (as the other poster stated) "Thumb over safety, like on a 1911". Thumb over safety is a very common practice among those with larger hands and for Bullseye Shooting, read: "One handed". If your thumb accidently engages the manual safety during firing than it would presume that you have a flawed grip and maybe you should learn to hold onto the gun tighter or use a proper grip during firing. Your thumb should be stationary and not move during firing. Doing so would infer that you are loosening your grip during recoil and that will most certainly have the tendency to cause a multitude of problems such as "Stove piping" or high and low stringing of shots on target. That is an issue with your grip, not the gun, or as you put it, that it is "crap". It is not crap, and if one chooses to utilize a thumb safety for whatever reason that is a personal preference. I agree with you that its not ideal for some or maybe even most, but it doesn't make it a flaw in design and it certainly doesn't make it "crap". Personally I buy the M&P's without the thumb safety as a preference or I remove them. Some departments require them and some people/ Officers must learn to live with them. It doesn't make them crap, again it just means that in some cases you have to adapt to what you have. cp |
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What? You have never shot a 1911 before have you? There is nothing wrong with the design of the safety in relation to the gun or where your thumb would reside if shooting, (as the other poster stated) "Thumb over safety, like on a 1911". Thumb over safety is a very common practice among those with larger hands and for Bullseye Shooting, read: "One handed". If your thumb accidently engages the manual safety during firing than it would presume that you have a flawed grip and maybe you should learn to hold onto the gun tighter or use a proper grip during firing. Your thumb should be stationary and not move during firing. Doing so would infer that you are loosening your grip during recoil and that will most certainly have the tendency to cause a multitude of problems such as "Stove piping" or high and low stringing of shots on target. That is an issue with your grip, not the gun, or as you put it, that it is "crap". It is not crap, and if one chooses to utilize a thumb safety for whatever reason that is a personal preference. I agree with you that its not ideal for some or maybe even most, but it doesn't make it a flaw in design and it certainly doesn't make it "crap". Personally I buy the M&P's without the thumb safety as a preference or I remove them. Some departments require them and some people/ Officers must learn to live with them. It doesn't make them crap, again it just means that in some cases you have to adapt to what you have. cp View Quote If you're used to choking up high and stacking your thumbs on a Glock or M&P with no safety, shooting one WITH a safety will feel unnatural. It's rubs the top of my right thumb pretty good, nearly to the point of pushing it up into "safe". I do not have this problem on my 1911 because I use low-profile safety levers and decently thick grips. |
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What? You have never shot a 1911 before have you? There is nothing wrong with the design of the safety in relation to the gun or where your thumb would reside if shooting, (as the other poster stated) "Thumb over safety, like on a 1911". Thumb over safety is a very common practice among those with larger hands and for Bullseye Shooting, read: "One handed". If your thumb accidently engages the manual safety during firing than it would presume that you have a flawed grip and maybe you should learn to hold onto the gun tighter or use a proper grip during firing. Your thumb should be stationary and not move during firing. Doing so would infer that you are loosening your grip during recoil and that will most certainly have the tendency to cause a multitude of problems such as "Stove piping" or high and low stringing of shots on target. That is an issue with your grip, not the gun, or as you put it, that it is "crap". It is not crap, and if one chooses to utilize a thumb safety for whatever reason that is a personal preference. I agree with you that its not ideal for some or maybe even most, but it doesn't make it a flaw in design and it certainly doesn't make it "crap". Personally I buy the M&P's without the thumb safety as a preference or I remove them. Some departments require them and some people/ Officers must learn to live with them. It doesn't make them crap, again it just means that in some cases you have to adapt to what you have. cp View Quote Ok, since you seem to be the type that likes to climb all over people because something wasn't phrased to your liking let me re-phrase it for you The safety on the M&P is crap. I have had more rifle and pistol training then I care to remember and I've been shooting for what would be a lifetime for some. I know how to shoot. Granted, I do not shoot 1911's but I also don't shoot bazookas, it's irrelevant. The fact is the safety level is right between the slide and upper grip. For me to grip over the safety I would have to put my thumb on the slide. Either that or do some balancing act where I just barely touch the safety without making contact with the slide. Under a high stress situation that is unacceptable. I don't buy a defensive pistol to shoot paper, I buy it to save my life and having to do a dance with a safety is not conducive to me quickly acquiring a solid 2 handed grip that allows rapid follow up shots. The other problem with that safety is that it's two flimsy. It takes so little effort to move it it's basically flapping in the wind. It might be a bit more acceptable if it had a more assertive throw so engaging and disengaging was an intentional act. |
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For those of you with a 2.0... does your right side slide stop release work?
I seem to recall some of the reviews saying they couldn't get theirs to work. Not a deal killer as I usually sling shot the slide but was just curious... |
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For those of you with a 2.0... does your right side slide stop release work? I seem to recall some of the reviews saying they couldn't get theirs to work. Not a deal killer as I usually sling shot the slide but was just curious... View Quote The slide stop works, I tried using it to release and it required a lot of effort. I you wanted to use it as a release it might be good to get a larger slide stop level. Not sure I they make that for the M&P. I know they do for Glock's. |
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For those of you with a 2.0... does your right side slide stop release work? I seem to recall some of the reviews saying they couldn't get theirs to work. Not a deal killer as I usually sling shot the slide but was just curious... View Quote Mine does, but they're a little stiffer than the original due to the new detent on the left side. I had gotten used to the slide auto-forwarding 100% during matches on my 1.0, which was neat but not the best practice, but I'm back to slingshotting. When you slingshot the 2.0, it actually forces the slide stop down over the detent, instead of letting the spring pull it down. |
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Mine does, but they're a little stiffer than the original due to the new detent on the left side. I had gotten used to the slide auto-forwarding 100% during matches on my 1.0, which was neat but not the best practice, but I'm back to slingshotting. When you slingshot the 2.0, it actually forces the slide stop down over the detent, instead of letting the spring pull it down. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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For those of you with a 2.0... does your right side slide stop release work? I seem to recall some of the reviews saying they couldn't get theirs to work. Not a deal killer as I usually sling shot the slide but was just curious... Mine does, but they're a little stiffer than the original due to the new detent on the left side. I had gotten used to the slide auto-forwarding 100% during matches on my 1.0, which was neat but not the best practice, but I'm back to slingshotting. When you slingshot the 2.0, it actually forces the slide stop down over the detent, instead of letting the spring pull it down. I've locked slide back with it but couldn't release with it and didn't want to force it. Doesn't bother me however, I'm a lefty and always use sling shot version to drop slide. |
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Ok, since you seem to be the type that likes to climb all over people because something wasn't phrased to your liking let me re-phrase it for you The safety on the M&P is crap. I have had more rifle and pistol training then I care to remember and I've been shooting for what would be a lifetime for some. I know how to shoot. Granted, I do not shoot 1911's but I also don't shoot bazookas, it's irrelevant. The fact is the safety level is right between the slide and upper grip. For me to grip over the safety I would have to put my thumb on the slide. Either that or do some balancing act where I just barely touch the safety without making contact with the slide. Under a high stress situation that is unacceptable. I don't buy a defensive pistol to shoot paper, I buy it to save my life and having to do a dance with a safety is not conducive to me quickly acquiring a solid 2 handed grip that allows rapid follow up shots. The other problem with that safety is that it's two flimsy. It takes so little effort to move it it's basically flapping in the wind. It might be a bit more acceptable if it had a more assertive throw so engaging and disengaging was an intentional act. View Quote No Sir, I am not that kind of person. I just dont like inexperienced people making statements in my thread that are regurgitated BS that they read in Guns and Ammo or heard at the gun counter with other arm chair commandos and present them as fact. Your experience is your experience, no one asked you for your opinion on it. You started your post as a rant about how crappy you think the safety is. You made no contribution to the thread. So remove it already and stop bitching about it or start your own thread. Chuck |
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If you're used to choking up high and stacking your thumbs on a Glock or M&P with no safety, shooting one WITH a safety will feel unnatural. It's rubs the top of my right thumb pretty good, nearly to the point of pushing it up into "safe". I do not have this problem on my 1911 because I use low-profile safety levers and decently thick grips. View Quote Roger, I get it, so remove it. I am not saying I love manual safety's, I fully comprehend the issues that some have. Like I said, I remove them or buy my M&PS without them. My point is some people do like them and use them because they either have to or want to. Either way I don't like people making statements about the quality of a product based on their personal preferences, likes or dislikes, and presenting them as fact. In other words, "think like me or you are stupid and don't know what you are talking about". It is not necessary and I do not like people trolling threads snd starting arguments by making inflammatory comments. We can move on from this now or I will close the thread. This isn't GD. Chuck |
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For those of you with a 2.0... does your right side slide stop release work? I seem to recall some of the reviews saying they couldn't get theirs to work. Not a deal killer as I usually sling shot the slide but was just curious... View Quote I have about a 1000 rounds through mine this week and it is still a little stiff but breaking in. I normally sling shot it as well in matches but I still like to know it works well. It will loosen up some and settle in I think. Cp |
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After 1000 rounds over the last 8 days or so. I have noticed a few things. The accuracy issues experienced on the 1.0s, at least early on, do not appear to be an issue in the 2.0s. I have found that mine is very accurate with match and standard white box wichester.
The trigger on my example had a decent break out of the box, however a buddies had some grit to it. Take up on both was long but the over travel was decent for a combat gun. Both guns smoothed out nicely. As with most my M&P's and most guns I own, the triggers will get some work. I will run Apex flat triggers and FSS when they come out most likely. My preference only though. I like a short take up and minimum over travel. This is easy with Apex. I will be picking up an FDE one as soon as I can and runniimg it hard. And yes I will be removing the manual safe ty if my example has one on it when I get it.. Chuck |
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No Sir, I am not that kind of person. I just dont like inexperienced people making statements in my thread that are regurgitated BS that they read in Guns and Ammo or heard at the gun counter with other arm chair commandos and present them as fact. Your experience is your experience, no one asked you for your opinion on it. You started your post as a rant about how crappy you think the safety is. You made no contribution to the thread. So remove it already and stop bitching about it or start your own thread. Chuck View Quote So heres a perfect example of an internet self proclaimed experert and douche. If someones remarks do line up with your thinking you have to automatically make statements how inexperienced they must be, thereby making yourself feel somehow superior. First thing you should do is deal with your insecurity issues. Just because someone has a different opinion than you doesnt make you wrong, stupid, or less of a man. I stand behind the safety on this gun being crap because I've handled a lot of firearms in my life and a safety lever should not be so light that it just moves with the slightest input. The safety should have a solid throw so that you know when its on and off because its an intentional movement. The safety on this pistol was clearly an afterthought without much design thought. The fact that some agencies have to use it or some people like the safety because they dont trust themselves is moot because it doesn't change the fact that this safety is poorly implemented. Get over yourself on this because its not a personal attack but when you belittle peoples statements to somehow make yourself sound more knowledged it just makes you look small. |
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So this thread convinced me to take a closer look at the new M&P 2.0......tried one out at the gun store today and I took one home with me.
I don't know if the one I got is an anomaly, but the trigger on mine is probably 4.5 pounds. Its insanely good. I absolutely LOVE the new grip as well. I ordered a Silencerco threaded barrel for it today as well. Will be putting my Octane 45 on it. |
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So this thread convinced me to take a closer look at the new M&P 2.0......tried one out at the gun store today and I took one home with me. I don't know if the one I got is an anomaly, but the trigger on mine is probably 4.5 pounds. Its insanely good. I absolutely LOVE the new grip as well. I ordered a Silencerco threaded barrel for it today as well. Will be putting my Octane 45 on it. View Quote Excellent would love to see pics once its all together. My factory trigger came in a little over 5lbs or so. It is definitely better than my 1.0. I will likely try the drop in APEX and skip the other trigger uprades for now and see if it continues to smooth out over time and rounds fired. Yes the Grip is fantastic. I am really happy SW starting putting a more aggressive gripping surface on it. I know some prefer it smoothed down some. Its definitely easy to go that route than stippling the grip. Congrats! cp |
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I bought one 3 weeks ago. I'm not much for polymer pistols but I have been wanting to get an M&P for a few years and I finally had the spare money right when the 2.0 came out.
It feels good in the hand. The aggressive texture is great for shooting but it could potentially be an issue with concealed carrying as it will probably tear up clothes. But that's not an issue in the role I will use it for. I like the safety. I would like it to be a bit stiffer, but it's fine the way it is. The slide stop is way too small and stiff. I normally drop the slide with the slide stop and it's takes a bit too much force to do it with this pistol. I can adapt to that though. What really troubles me is this... I have fired exactly 400 rounds through the pistol and experienced three failures to extract. The first two were at a range session where I only had 100 rounds of 115 grain Remington ammo to fire. I don't really trust anything by Remington anymore and was ready to blame the ammo and the fact that the pistol was still new. Then I went out with 200 rounds of 124 grain Winchester NATO ammo, 50 rounds of aluminum blazer ammo (which worked fine,) and 50 rounds of Gold Dot 124 P+ ammo. (Gotta test your defensive loads) I got one more failure to extract about halfway through that shooting session. That was the only hint of a problem I had with it that second shooting session. No machine is 100% reliable so maybe I just got unlucky and had a string of failures. And maybe it just needs a bit more of a break in. It's not failing enough for me to call it defective and send it back. I guess I'll need to put a few hundred more rounds through it to see if the problem continues... At least it's fun to shoot. |
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This has probably been asked and answered, but are they coming out with a "compact" model? I just don't need another full size range gun.
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I bought one 3 weeks ago. I'm not much for polymer pistols but I have been wanting to get an M&P for a few years and I finally had the spare money right when the 2.0 came out. It feels good in the hand. The aggressive texture is great for shooting but it could potentially be an issue with concealed carrying as it will probably tear up clothes. But that's not an issue in the role I will use it for. I like the safety. I would like it to be a bit stiffer, but it's fine the way it is. The slide stop is way too small and stiff. I normally drop the slide with the slide stop and it's takes a bit too much force to do it with this pistol. I can adapt to that though. What really troubles me is this... I have fired exactly 400 rounds through the pistol and experienced three failures to extract. The first two were at a range session where I only had 100 rounds of 115 grain Remington ammo to fire. I don't really trust anything by Remington anymore and was ready to blame the ammo and the fact that the pistol was still new. Then I went out with 200 rounds of 124 grain Winchester NATO ammo, 50 rounds of aluminum blazer ammo (which worked fine,) and 50 rounds of Gold Dot 124 P+ ammo. (Gotta test your defensive loads) I got one more failure to extract about halfway through that shooting session. That was the only hint of a problem I had with it that second shooting session. No machine is 100% reliable so maybe I just got unlucky and had a string of failures. And maybe it just needs a bit more of a break in. It's not failing enough for me to call it defective and send it back. I guess I'll need to put a few hundred more rounds through it to see if the problem continues... At least it's fun to shoot. View Quote That's odd.....hmmm mm I am at 1350 now through mine and have not had a single failure. I am shooting winchester NATO and atlanta arms match ammo. Wonderful results and only getting better, accuracy wise. Failure to extract. Maybe take a close look at the extractor. I can see magazines being and issue and have heard of some having issues with them but maybe you got a bad extractor? Chuck |
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This has probably been asked and answered, but are they coming out with a "compact" model? I just don't need another full size range gun. View Quote I think so. Considering the M&P shield 45 is essentially a 2.0 gun I can see them offering all models with the same improvements. Cp |
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I've just discovered that a military surplus M12 holster seems to fit it perfectly. FWIW.... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Guys, When ordering a holster for the 2.0 which prior model is closest to the same size? Many of the holster companies don't specify the 2.0 yet. Is it the VTAC? I've just discovered that a military surplus M12 holster seems to fit it perfectly. FWIW.... I ordered the standard M&P 9/40 Blackhawk Serpa for mine fits fine. |
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