im a glockster. i just bought this gun (police trade online dont have it yet) i hear the triggers suck what do i buy from apex to fix it?

Try it out first. They have changed the trigger setup more than once, some suck some are decent.

If your example sucks, check out the Duty/Carry Kit.  The RAM is also a nice addon if you like the Glock reset.

try it first, if it sux do this:
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

free is always better than not free

Standard trigger pull where it breaks at the rear of the pull, closest to the frame? Go with the DCAEK kit with optional AEK trigger.

Short pull with virtually no take up similar to a 1911? FSS trigger kit.

Both kits give you the option of an aluminum or polymer trigger.

Newer production guns have a better trigger. If it's old enough where it has the smaller sear spring, you will want to replace the entire sear housing assembly. Older sears were MIM, the newer ones are not. The slide stop bar is also enhanced with a small bump for a more tactile trigger reset and the trigger bar has been redesigned, too, I believe in the newer models.

Load bullets. Shoot. Determine if trigger is "so bad". If no, add more bullets. If yes, buy Apex DCAEK kit.

+1

this

...put some URL tags around it so it's clickable

http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

Got mine a few weeks back.  Stock trigger in mine was the old one and old sear block.  I had an apex polymer kit on my 9mm m&p so ordered the same for this.  Had to use old sear block until I could order one.  With old sear, it ran well.  Pull was short and crisp break but reset was mushy.  I learned later that is more the trigger bar profile, so when I installed the new sear, I had to modify the stock trigger bar as it wouldn't break the sear after the new block as installed.  Some messing with the trigger loop eventually got the break right, and adjusting the bend in the arm to add some tension against the sear block as it slides off, due to the can/slider moving the arm etc...  that fixed the reset.  At least in dry firing.  I've yet to shoot it after the new sear install.  Should be fine given how my other apex trigger improved the 9mm gun I have.

I picked up a "used" trade-in today. The trigger bar has the "H" stamp and the sear is not the MIM sear. I don't think it has the upgraded slide stop lever nor does the barrel have the dimple designating the faster twist. I'm not overly concerned. Trigger break and reset feel great. Barrel shows virtually no wear. It came with factory night sights which are still really bright. I'm not upgrading or swapping out anything. It was just over $400 OTD.

I just bought one of the LE trade in's too, but do not have it yet.

I wasn't considering I'd be getting some weird gen 1 type pistol back from the early days of the M&P...

At least the price was right.

I'm definitely not shopping for a trigger yet. That said, a brand new factory M&P can be the worst thing you'll ever handle. I literally asked why it made a creaking noise, and felt like it had sand in it.

If you have a guy you really trust, a very good trigger job can be done with minimal Apex parts (and reduced cost).

That said, better than free or inexpensive is something done RIGHT.

I just picked up a new M&P Pro 9mm Today, This is My second Pro I sold the first one. And I had a standard full size M&P in 9mm All 3 Pistols Including the one I bought Today I did the Burwell Trigger Job which is only Working on the Sear. It does require the sear to be removed and involves filing and polishing on the Sear. Even the Pro Sear and Trigger are better by following the detailed Instructions on the Burwell website. There is NO need to spend any money as You can get the trigger down to about a 4lb or less trigger pull with a nice reset just by following the instructions and pictures on the Burwell website All springs are left stock.

I know it sounds hard to believe the desired trigger pull can be gained by some simple filing and polishing. It wouldn't hurt to give it a try if You screw up You can always order the parts from Apex. I wish Y'all could pull the trigger on this New Pro that I haven't even shot yet lol but the Trigger is where I want it and is ready to go.
Another thing I do while I have the Sear Block out of the Gun is I remove the silly Yellow Lever that is in the Chamber that disengages the sear in order to Remove the Slide from the Frame. With that lever removed and now gone from the Pistol You simply lock the Slide open rotate the Slide Take down Lever ease the Slide forward until it's even with the back of the Frame and pull the Trigger while holding onto the Slide with the opposite hand. Of course this is after You have verified the Gun is Unloaded and NO round is in the chamber!

Google Burwell Trigger Job and read about it.

So OP, did you get your gun yet?  


*I have nothing to add, it's all been said.  As a fellow recent glock --> MP convert, curious to know your thoughts

No I haven't picked it up yet its sitting at my ffl since he wasn't available on my days off to pick it up.

Shot mine today. Accuracy is great inside of 15 yards. At 15 yards and beyond, things really open up and to the left. It's probably more me than the pistol, but I'm thinking aftermarket barrel first, Apex trigger kit second, and new sights last if I think I need them.

This is what I did to two of mine. The trigger squeeze and break was much improved, but the reset was still mushy. I tried bending the trigger bar, which only helped a tiny bit. I left them alone at that point because I don't care about the reset. In my opinion the trigger break is far better than Glock or even a 1911, because it just feels the way I expect it to and I love the click it makes when I dry fire it. The only way to get a good reset on the older models is probably by adding a lateral spring (like the RAM kit), but the newer sear blocks don't seem to have that issue.

Most of the grittiness people complain about is from the top of the trigger bar rubbing on the firing pin safety. Sanding the top edges of the trigger bar helps a lot, especially since the edges of the metal are rather sharp.