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Posted: 7/30/2014 8:37:45 PM EDT
Bought a new 1911 today and after field stripping had trouble with reassembly. The little trigger safety lever was sticking up to far to get the slide back on. I tried everything short of a hammer until I decided to use a jeweler's file to take off a touch. Now the slide goes back on okay but should I polish the surface where I removed metal or just shoot the thing? Also the phosphate is gone from the area where the lever rides in the slide. Was that going to happen after the first mag anyway or did I screw up leaving the tang a little rough? I really don't know how they assemble these things at the factory.  Thanks for any input.
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 8:56:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Are you intimately familiar with a 1911? And are you familiar with the Series 80 firing pin safety and it's associated parts and method of operation? I don't think you could've come up with a worse solution than removing metal (on a 1911 no less ) for the sake of making something fit back together, which was fit together properly when you started.
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 9:04:21 PM EDT
[#2]
I only own five 1911s  but no, I don't know everything about them or I would not be asking here.
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 9:06:30 PM EDT
[#3]

How much metal did you remove? It may be necessary to order a new lever to ensure the timing remains correct so that the series 80 plunger is being moved the correct amount for reliable disengagement of the safety. Those levers come in different sizes for different amounts of "lift".
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 9:14:18 PM EDT
[#4]
I removed very little, there was a burr from stamping and I went only a little further than that. There is plenty of material left to engage the plunger.
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 9:21:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I removed very little, there was a burr from stamping and I went only a little further than that. There is plenty of material left to engage the plunger.
View Quote



Then take it to the range and see if it fires without any issues, I don't know how many thousandths of an inch you can take off the series 80 levers without affecting reliable disengagement of the plunger but if you have failures to fire, you'll know why.
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 9:30:55 PM EDT
[#6]
The firing pin moves with finger pressure and will shoot a pencil out of the barrel.
Link Posted: 7/30/2014 9:36:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Disregard.
Link Posted: 7/31/2014 5:43:51 AM EDT
[#8]
Usually, when I have trouble getting the slide back onto a 1911, it's because the barrel link is binding on the dust shield.  I.O.W., it's out of place.
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 5:41:48 AM EDT
[#9]
I did the same thing with a new 1911 Scorpion, it works fine, I wasn't the first to have this issue with a Sig 1911 and you won't be the last.
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 7:00:58 AM EDT
[#10]
I shot it yesterday with two failures to return to battery in about a hundred rounds. I think it will smooth out with time. It will not be a carry gun. Thanks for all the comments.
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 12:39:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I did the same thing with a new 1911 Scorpion, it works fine, I wasn't the first to have this issue with a Sig 1911 and you won't be the last.
View Quote

Me too. Runs great now. I have seen a few reports of the "burr" issue.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 9:49:57 PM EDT
[#12]
I had the same thing happen to a Tacops as well. I sent it back to Sig and they replaced the safer plunger lever. Now the lever is flush with the frame as it should of been from the beginning and reassembling the TacOps is a non issue. I find it disappointing that it left the factory that way, but they did take care of the issue no questions asked.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 10:11:32 PM EDT
[#13]
Good to hear as far as the customer service.  I may take a hair more off the next time I have it apart. There is plenty of travel in the lever.
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