 JSteensen
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Joined: Feb 2004  AZ, USA
 
 Posts: 5877 Feedback: 100% (9) |
Posted: 8/10/2012 2:40:23 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT Any ideas? |
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nhsport
Team Member
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Joined: May 2002 CT, USA
Posts: 7891 Feedback: 100% (1) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/10/2012 4:52:26 PM
Tall order.
Most any home gunsmithing finish options are going to be less durable than whatever is left of the factory finish and results will be wholely dependant on the prep work which can be extensive. Shortest route to a durrable good looking finish is to trade the used gun for a new one. I believe home brewed re-finish jobs to be of generally unsatisfactory in durability and quality and a factory or aftermarket top quality re-finish only practible for a firearm with big sentimental value . Refinish on any colectable or historical piece is going to kill its value |
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Posted: 8/10/2012 6:47:05 PM
I have had good results dura coating Sig slides. I have not tried refinishing the anodized aluminum frames. With the KG industries dura coat, you do have to prep the steel by removing the factory finish with aluminum oxide sand blasting, then treat the metal with a parkerizing solution, before you actually put the final color coat on. As far as the oven goes, you can use it to just warm the slide immediately before you coat it (coat the metal hot), and let the finish air cure.... Takes a while, but it doesn't REQUIRE to be dried in the oven.... Another option is to pick up a used toaster oven from yard sale or goodwill... The metal only needs to get up around 200-300 degrees, so having a full sized 500 degree oven isn't needed. Obviously, if you want to do rifle parts, the toaster oven won't help for large pieces...
Also, look into a product Brownells puts out called "aluma hide". It doesn't require heat and is available in an spray can. I've heard good things about it. Good luck. -Tac |
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Posted: 8/11/2012 12:06:51 AM
Not really cheap, or fast, but US Anodizing does solid work. I had my 228 frame stripped and re-anodized, all steel parts were phosphated, then they baked on a pretty good finish after that. Look at their Navy package on their website.
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Posted: 8/11/2012 12:19:05 AM
Originally Posted By nf9648:
Not really cheap, or fast, but US Anodizing does solid work. I had my 228 frame stripped and re-anodized, all steel parts were phosphated, then they baked on a pretty good finish after that. Look at their Navy package on their website. How does the stripping and reanodizing affect the aluminum? I have heard that it removes a tiny bit, is that true? I would like to have some checkering done on the frame of my P220, which I imagine would require a refinish. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 7:40:46 PM
[Last Edit: 8/12/2012 7:43:54 PM by bluezerosix]
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Posted: 8/13/2012 8:16:38 PM
[Last Edit: 8/13/2012 8:18:06 PM by d-ride]
Norrels moly resin is an option. They have both oven and air cure. I know your oven is out, but give a quick/basic DIY oven kit build.
another option is Brownells Aluma Hyde II also- KG Gun kote |
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pjphilp
Species: gorilla urbanus tenobrosum
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Joined: Nov 2007 TX, USA
Posts: 111 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/17/2012 2:11:26 PM
Sig will refinish a slide for $99. For stainless, it's the nitron finish; if it's a carbon steel slide, it gets reblued.
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Dog1
U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1
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Joined: May 2001 IN, USA
Posts: 35098 Feedback: 100% (387) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/17/2012 5:25:42 PM
Originally Posted By d-ride:
Norrels moly resin is an option. They have both oven and air cure. I know your oven is out, but give a quick/basic DIY oven kit build. another option is Brownells Aluma Hyde II also- KG Gun kote Norrell's is all I use. It's pretty tough and stands up well to carrying. |
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Posted: 8/18/2012 5:30:03 PM
blackicecoating, teflon finish all the way
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