I bought a new Gen3 19 a few months ago. I did a few minor mods including adding a Gemtech threaded barrel, extended slide release, and some grip tape. I fired about 150 rounds without any issue.

Then I bought a 3.5lb connector from a very popular manufacturer. I followed instructions from Youtube videos and I felt the installation went well. I took it to the range and immediately had issues with multiple rounds being fired with each trigger pull. It wasn't actually on the trigger pull, it was with trigger release.

I called that manufacturer and they felt it may have been a product issue and offered to send me another connector. Long story short, I never received a new connector, so I bought a 3.5lb connector from a different manufacturer and installed that. I took the gun to the range today and got about 10 rounds in without issue, then started having the problem again.

I assume this has to be an installation problem or something not related to the connectors, since I've used 2 connectors from 2 brands and had the same issue.

Any thoughts?

Can you take a picture of your trigger reset spring for me?

It should install like this.....  Pictures for reference.
The spring cannot have a cant right or left and the trigger bar will have a give you install the spring into a certain way.  It sounds like this is your culprit very common for people to install the reset spring wrong and cause all kinds of issue.  Most common issue is the trigger not resetting properly.

I can take it all out if you need me to. I didn't touch it during install but I can make sure

view with the trigger out of the gun. There are 2 tabs on the right of the connector that the trigger bar could engage with. which one is correct? The farther back one seems to give better geometry. is that right?







This seems incorrect. This is not how I installed it, but when the trigger isn't in the gun the parts seem to want to slip out this way





edit, I'm sorry, these pictures are getting auto-rotated on upload and are all screwed up. I'll try to fix them

Dang! That would be a nasty surprise!

The pictures are fine everything looks correct.  The spring is installed correctly and I see you have a Lone Wolf connector (not my personal favorite connector) but it should work just fine.

One thing you may not like by just adding a lower weight connector alone is the trigger will be mushy and clunky I call it the mushy clunk because as the striker breaks it just feels mushy and clunky.  Whenever I put a lower weight connector is I always upgrade the reset spring to the heavy trigger reset spring it takes out some of the mush and gives a more positive reset but only lowers the pull weight about .25-5#.

yeah, to say the least. I did not appreciate it.

yes, the new one is Lone Wolf. The original was ZEV.

The interesting thing about today is that I was trying to feel the positive reset when the unintentional firing started. When the gun is unloaded there is a very short, very crisp reset. I wanted to only release the trigger that far, but I guess riding the trigger to release caused some sort of malfunction. I couldn't get it to stop this afterward.

I've uninstalled and reinstalled everything. I guess I'll try to shoot it again at some point, and if it's still messed up I'll just reinstall the factory connector and give up.

Pretty disappointing for one of those "everyone should do this" mods on my first Glock.

I tend to stick to the Glock "-" connector or the Ghost equivalent.  I have tried lots of different connectors and unless you are doing a custom one to set over travel their is not much better than the Glock "-" connector.

Just 2 consecutive shots or even 3 or 4?

It will fire 3 or 4.

1)  Glock's "3.5"#, actually 4.5#, connector creates a mushy too long hard to manage pull.

2)  Substituting other brands of what ever fire control parts gets you into the exclusive "I fixed my Glock until it won't run correctly" club.  Welcome.  Variation 8,900,999 of the same thread.

2a)  The connector in your picture looks bent outward too far although it may just be the perspective.  Yanking them in and out without care often bends them to the wrong angle.

3)  The solution is to put the Gen3 5.5# connector and factory parts back in correctly and learn to shoot what is the best compromise of factory OEM parts.  Relatively crisp, relative short, and 100% reliable unless Bubba'd.

4)  As to the suppressor barrel which is not OEM and whatever it may be doing to the system, I have no idea.

4)  I am not being mean or a Democrat, just giving you good advice on how to re-institute Perfection.

Could the gun recoiling in your hand, in conjunction with the lighter connector be causing it?  I worked with a guy that could fire his Glock like a full auto by getting his finger just right and letting the recoil do the rest.  I tried it and couldn't ever get the hang of it.

Well, one thing I've done is pulled the trigger and held it back. I confirmed that it will only fire once with a depressed trigger.

I've tried to release it as quickly as I could but it still fires on trigger release.

I do believe that the 3-4 round burst had to do with "riding" the trigger out, possibly creating a situation where I was teetering between fire and reset. Either way, this is not a desirable trait to me. None of my other weapons has ever acted this way.

Go back to OEM parts and see if it does it.

If it does then it's not the connector.

I want a binary trigger for my glock.

Just one old sticks experience-This is exactly why I use Glock OEM - connectors and nothing else. I have a handful of after market products that failed in one way or another. Keeping your springs all stock is an even better idea.

This. Looks like it's bent out away from the trigger housing instead of sitting flush against it. This typically happens when you remove one by pulling on it from the right side of the housing instead of pushing it out from the left side by inserting an armorer's tool or punch through the hole. I don't know how it could get bent that way during installation, but I guess it's possible.

Start back at factory parts to eliminate something with the gun itself.  Add back in one at a time.

And you didn't crack open the slide for anything, just lower parts?

I had the exact same issue a few months back. All stock internals, installed a LW 3.5 bar, went to range and got double taps, Never more than doubles, but it made me nervous as all hell. RO thought I was soft handling the G22, he gave it a go, same issue, double taps at least 75% of the time. Came home, put the factory back in and ordered a 3.5 from Ghost. Took the ghost and LW to the range and shot with the factory in place, no issues. Put the LW back in to see if I could recreate the problem. Double taps 90% of the time. Swapped the Lone wolf out for the Ghost 3.5, same issue, double taps, but not as often, maybe 50%. Back in goes the factory parts, no issues.

I brought a G17 along and had no issues with the LW connector at all, but got double taps with the ghost more the 50% from two full mags. Nether the LW or the Ghost had any issues on the RO's G17. Both worked fine. I do not claim to understand what is going on internally, but I'm not chancing it.  The RO couldn't figure it out either.  I will not modify stock internals from now on out. I gave the RO both parts for his help and asked him to let me know if the issue occurs or replicates itself again with his install.

I shot only Federal FMJ 115grain with G17, and Federal FMJ 180gr with G22.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you discover.

Yeah, first thought is go back to the original connector and see if you still have problems.