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Posted: 2/16/2017 4:10:37 PM EDT
[#1]
I had to machine the barrel that came with the Advantage Arms .22 conversion kit, in order to make it fit.
One of the issues I found with the Spectre frame is that the slide lock is about 0.035" or so too close to the tip of the wedge of the unlocking block (i.e., 0.035" farther to the rear of the frame, than in a Glock factory frame). And it was because of this issue with the placement of the slide lock that the kit could not be installed without modification. I used a milling machine but you should be able to do it with a file if you're careful (although it may be tedious). |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 11:35:49 AM EDT
[#2]
I built mine using a power drill and knockoff dremel, it shoots very reliably no issues, I did as the guy from glock store suggested, I lubed the crap out of it with wheel bearing grease I mean literally packed the inside with grease, racked the slide a few times to get what would come off so it wouldnt hit me when I started shooting, have a few hang ups first couple rounds then it broke in and shoots great now.
I have about 350 bucks in it, the slide is virgin, no serrations no coating nothing, it will cost me almost 300 to get the machining done and have it coated, I just dont want to put that much more money in it, it has been fun. I may go ahead and send the slide off. just trying to decide how much I want to sink into this thing. |
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Posted: 2/21/2017 10:11:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had to machine the barrel that came with the Advantage Arms .22 conversion kit, in order to make it fit. One of the issues I found with the Spectre frame is that the slide lock is about 0.035" or so too close to the tip of the wedge of the unlocking block (i.e., 0.035" farther to the rear of the frame, than in a Glock factory frame). And it was because of this issue with the placement of the slide lock that the kit could not be installed without modification. I used a milling machine but you should be able to do it with a file if you're careful (although it may be tedious). Oh wow...another flaw exposed. Do you know if it still works on a standard glock 17 frame? |
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Posted: 2/22/2017 2:16:53 AM EDT
[#4]
So, it's been a while since I gave an update on my build.
I bought a few 10 round magpul mags for the thing, and the slide won't lock back to the rear. I thought it was because of the mags follower being just barely shorter than the standard glock mags (which work btw) but as I fiddled with it I realized that the flared mag well was touching the mag baseplate. So I ground away a little of the plastic on the inside of the magwell, I think that fixed my issue. I will be goin back to the range again this weekend to test out my theory. Aside from the no lock back (with only the magpul mags) I have about 300 rounds through it. No issues aside from the magazines. |
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Posted: 2/26/2017 10:50:53 AM EDT
[#5]
Thought I might throw this out there about something I repaired on a Polymer80 frame I'm building.
When milling the rear rail on the right side of the pistol frame, I took too much material from the top of the channel. I didn't go all the way through, but you could flex the forward edge (on the right side) with your finger. I had some very fine fiberglass cloth (it comes in all sorts of thicknesses and weaves) that was almost like silk. I cut a piece the size of a first class postage stamp, and mixed up some ZAP epoxy (it's an epoxy I like for things like drones, etc, that take stress and force). I folded the saturated cloth over the top of the rail, and into the channel (I used a wood tongue depressor to get it to contour to the U shaped channel). ZAP epoxy cures quickly (about 30 minutes), but I waited 24 hours before cleaning it up with sandpaper. It came out very nice. If you do something like this yourself, make sure you have some long tweezers to work with (HF sells a set for about $5). The fiberglass cloth will clump up, and you need 2 sets of tweezers to bring it back to a rectangular shape before laying it onto the rail. G. |
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Posted: 2/26/2017 12:56:45 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thought I might throw this out there about something I repaired on a Polymer80 frame I'm building. When milling the rear rail on the right side of the pistol frame, I took too much material from the top of the channel. I didn't go all the way through, but you could flex the forward edge (on the right side) with your finger. I had some very fine fiberglass cloth (it comes in all sorts of thicknesses and weaves) that was almost like silk. I cut a piece the size of a first class postage stamp, and mixed up some ZAP epoxy (it's an epoxy I like for things like drones, etc, that take stress and force). I folded the saturated cloth over the top of the rail, and into the channel (I used a wood tongue depressor to get it to contour to the U shaped channel). ZAP epoxy cures quickly (about 30 minutes), but I waited 24 hours before cleaning it up with sandpaper. It came out very nice. If you do something like this yourself, make sure you have some long tweezers to work with (HF sells a set for about $5). The fiberglass cloth will clump up, and you need 2 sets of tweezers to bring it back to a rectangular shape before laying it onto the rail. G. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:21:41 PM EDT
[#7]
I received and finished a Polymer 80 compact today. This is a huge improvement over the full sized lower. It has metal rails front and rear, no rails to cut, and had none of the issues I ran into with the full sized one. They really learned from the issues and improved this one. Thanks to all for the helpful posts about the issues with the G17 sized lowers, I am still waiting on a barrel to see if that one runs.
I only had time to run one mag through it but it ran flawlessly. I got a smoking deal on the slide and barrel, they may stay or not but I want a RMR on it. 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:40:58 PM EDT
[#8]
That's awesome. Just curious where you ordered from.
I pre-ordered mine from Mag Commander, who is supposed to be "second in line" to get theirs. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:51:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Ordered from Rainier Arms.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 6:51:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Can you show a pic of your barrel channel cut? Is it clear where you're supposed to stop?
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Posted: 2/27/2017 7:08:51 PM EDT
[#11]
There is an indication of where to cut, there is a small relief to show the area to remove. These are the best pics I could get.
The instructions show it better: http://www.polymer80.com/media/wysiwyg/porto/instructions/Polymer80-PF940C-Instructions.pdf 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 7:27:48 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's awesome. Just curious where you ordered from. I pre-ordered mine from Mag Commander, who is supposed to be "second in line" to get theirs. I sent my slide off to Glock for the sights so I am in a holding pattern for everything right now 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 8:37:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Interesting note on Rainier's website about the PF940C:
"Based on additional live fire testing we found that applying a black nitride surface treatment to the Locking Block Rail System (LBRS) included with the kit greatly improves the performance and longevity of the part. Without the black nitride surface treatment, which increases the surface hardness of the part, we experienced premature wear on the top portion of the rails after several thousand rounds, which is unacceptable. Therefore, while we do recognize applying this surface treatment will add time to the original proposed shipping timeline, we feel that the benefits of this additional process outweigh the slight delay in shipping." So does this mean only frames shipped by Rainier will have the nitride treatment? |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:01:09 PM EDT
[#14]
in the above picture the block is black, the locking block is silver so it would appear they did apply the coating.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:12:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So does this mean only frames shipped by Rainier will have the nitride treatment? Thanks for the pic! I think Rainier is quoting P80's website or Facebook, so all of them should have the treatment. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:31:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the pic! I think Rainier is quoting P80's website or Facebook, so all of them should have the treatment.  I thought the "we" in the quote meant Rainier Arms not Polymer 80!
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Posted: 3/2/2017 11:12:10 PM EDT
[#17]
Here's last nights progress of mine. Still waiting on my zev slide, and the unobtainium S3F barrel.
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Posted: 3/4/2017 6:15:25 AM EDT
[#18]
I am hoping Brownells starts shipping soon. I think I preordered the first day(s) they came out.
Haven't heard anything from Brownells, Like waiting for Christmas like a kid. 
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Posted: 3/4/2017 12:32:21 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's last nights progress of mine. Still waiting on my zev slide, and the unobtainium S3F barrel. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o296/skd_88/340A966C-EA82-439A-919F-EA61F1241CBD_zpshkqiiic4.jpg Are the new compact frames taking Gen 3 or Gen 4 lower parts? |
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Posted: 3/4/2017 1:48:00 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are the new compact frames taking Gen 3 or Gen 4 lower parts? All the Polymer 80 builds use Gen 3. |
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Posted: 3/4/2017 2:33:47 PM EDT
[#21]
So did we get an answer on the nitriding finish being applied to all polymer 80 glock 19 sized frame rails or was that exclusive to the lot released by Ranier Arms?
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Posted: 3/4/2017 4:06:08 PM EDT
[#22]
All. Poly 80 made the announcement.
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Posted: 3/4/2017 4:41:22 PM EDT
[#23]
the rear rails are made of stainless, there is a new video on YT that shows them, they look really good, well the one on the video did, when I get mine I am sending the rear section off to have it plated in TiN gold color. I snatched up two G19 upper one I couldnt pass up and the other I actually meant to buy.
so now I have to get another kit, there are some kits on the EE cheap. that is where I got my second kit. oh and the new kits come with longer pins for the locking block the front and rear have metal pins to lock it all down no screws. but from what I understand the holes are still a PITA |
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Posted: 3/4/2017 6:44:26 PM EDT
[#24]
Well went to go shoot my 80% 17 today. Just past 2k rounds down the pipe. Out of nowhere today it is firing on trigger pull AND reset. Any idea where to start? I have other glocks with well over 10k rounds through them and no such issues.
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Posted: 3/5/2017 8:38:52 AM EDT
[#25]
Maybe it has excessive movement in the rear module? Maybe it needs to be shimmed with a fragment from a credit card?
Or a replacement trigger assembly? |
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Posted: 3/6/2017 2:50:27 PM EDT
[#26]
Is anyone else having problems with 34 uppers? I can't get mine to cycle for shit.
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Posted: 3/6/2017 10:50:19 PM EDT
[#27]
got my G19 frame in today, I completed it but what a pain it was to get the slide for function, the rear rails seemed to be a little higher than the front so I had to file down the rear rails. took me about 2 hours of sliding the frame on then filing down the rear rails and so on, the slide works fine now but the trigger will not reset each time I rack the slide. Not sure what is going on with that. I will shoot it tomorrow and see how it goes. I have an OEM Glock slide that was very tight to start, but I got it to work, I also have a suarez slide and it would not even go on the rear rails at all.
I ordered another p80 kit but I think I am going to sell it, i would rather spend the money and get a regular glock frame after this. |
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Posted: 3/7/2017 5:38:56 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe it has excessive movement in the rear module? Maybe it needs to be shimmed with a fragment from a credit card? Or a replacement trigger assembly? I think you are correct. Seems like I can move the slide on the rear rails more than my factory glocks, allowing the striker to be released off the cross bar. What is this credit card shim you speak of? |
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Posted: 3/7/2017 11:15:24 PM EDT
[#29]
Take a small piece of plastic, such as an expired CC. And place it between the front of trigger/ejector module and the frame to reduce play (nose dive) of the module.
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Posted: 3/8/2017 8:28:58 AM EDT
[#30]
'Just finished mine (PF940C) last night without any hiccups. It passed a function test fine, we'll see how it choots today.
Question about holster options. Polymer80 says it won't fit holsters molded for a Glock 19. So beyond getting a custom kydex holster made, what are the options? Anybody know if it will fit a molded holster designed for another Glock model or something else? ETA: I guess it would only be proper to add a build list. OEM Gen 3 slide and RSA OEM Gen 4 barrel Lone Wolf slide parts kit Tru-glo FO sights OEM Glock 17 LPK, omit take down lever spring OEM Glock take down lever spring #SP02317 Duracoat UV Matte Black on slide (not very matte )
Duracoat "Biohazard Yellow" on controls 
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Posted: 3/8/2017 9:30:44 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's last nights progress of mine. Still waiting on my zev slide, and the unobtainium S3F barrel. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o296/skd_88/340A966C-EA82-439A-919F-EA61F1241CBD_zpshkqiiic4.jpg Looks really nice! With the reshaped trigger guard on the P80, do they still fit properly in Glock holsters? |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 11:09:27 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
'Just finished mine (PF940C) last night without any hiccups. It passed a function test fine, we'll see how it choots today. Question about holster options. Polymer80 says it won't fit holsters molded for a Glock 19. So beyond getting a custom kydex holster made, what are the options? Anybody know if it will fit a holster designed for another Glock model or something else? http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/maximusscriptorius/9A8B5A28-91E3-45C8-8405-A561831576A5_zpsohsgefms.jpg I (and several companies) found that P80 products fit the holsters of the next caliber up. 9/40 guns usually fit the holsters of 10/45 guns. Try a holster for a Glock 30. Good looking gun. Good job. |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 11:50:08 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I (and several companies) found that P80 products fit the holsters of the next caliber up. 9/40 guns usually fit the holsters of 10/45 guns. Try a holster for a Glock 30. Good looking gun. Good job. I'm a Glock virgin and not really a pistol guy but this one was fun. This Glock subforum has been a great asset- I do a lot of reading on here and I appreciate all of the info. from seasoned Glock owners/builders. I love the simplicity of the Glock design. I hope my build turns out to be a reliable firearm. |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 5:24:27 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Take a small piece of plastic, such as an expired CC. And place it between the front of trigger/ejector module and the frame to reduce play (nose dive) of the module. Unfortunately that did not work. It is only doing it if you hold pressure on the slide in the upwards motion. Like its letting the striker release off of the cross piece |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 7:54:48 PM EDT
[#35]
shot mine today, put 50 rounds through it, not one issue.
glock upper all factory parts installed on mine. |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 8:15:49 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Unfortunately that did not work. It is only doing it if you hold pressure on the slide in the upwards motion. Like its letting the striker release off of the cross piece Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Take a small piece of plastic, such as an expired CC. And place it between the front of trigger/ejector module and the frame to reduce play (nose dive) of the module. Unfortunately that did not work. It is only doing it if you hold pressure on the slide in the upwards motion. Like its letting the striker release off of the cross piece I would then would replace the $16 trigger/trigger bar, at that the chance the trigger bar that you are now using is now out of spec. Actually right now the part is on sale for $12 at Brownells. |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 10:27:28 PM EDT
[#37]
HELP! I was Assembling my trigger (agency arms) everything was going smooth until I pulled the trigger. this is my first glock, but on my m&p's a trigger pull with the slide removed is buttery smooth. Now it is hung up, but still pulls with a lot of force, and have to manually reset the trigger. Did I miss something in the assembly process? Should the trigger bar be so close to the frame?
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Posted: 3/9/2017 1:04:29 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
HELP! I was Assembling my trigger (agency arms) everything was going smooth until I pulled the trigger. this is my first glock, but on my m&p's a trigger pull with the slide removed is buttery smooth. Now it is hung up, but still pulls with a lot of force, and have to manually reset the trigger. Did I miss something in the assembly process? Should the trigger bar be so close to the frame? http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o296/skd_88/528B45B2-6574-46BE-BFB8-2A010010F4E9_zpsnu1ua7eo.jpg Looks proper. Glock triggers don't function without the slide. Put a slide on and it should be just fine. |
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Posted: 3/9/2017 3:08:03 PM EDT
[#39]
Milled and assembled mine today in under and hour. No issues to speak...tiniest bit of drag when racking but live fire will sort that out. Passes function test with an Overwatch Tac Trigger, returns to battery fine. Threw this top end on while I wait for my 22 slide (with 23L barrel and LWD extended dustcover) to return from milling.
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Posted: 3/10/2017 8:06:26 AM EDT
[#40]
Range report on PF940C build. (my build post is above)
1st Day: Ran two mags through and smiling ear to ear. On 3rd and 4th mags I had several fail to feeds, several incomplete cycles (slide would go about 1/4" from battery and stop), or the cycle was delayed- the slide would return to about a 1/4" from battery, hang up for a second, then go into battery. Smile turned to frown. Realized two things: I know you are not supposed to over lube Glocks but I did not lube any moving/sliding parts besides the pins that go through the frame when I assembled it. So I lubed it lightly. Wondering why it only hung up when the barrel got warm made me think about my Duracoat job. Several weeks ago way before the build was completed I originally Duracoated the barrel but ended up removing it because the barrel would not even install properly in the slide due to the thickness of the Duracoat. Slide was Duracoated with matte black. I'm pretty sure the Duracoat over spray was causing the problem. So I removed it in the two areas in pointed out in the pics. I did not paint the inside of the slide but I did not take any measures to mask it off either. 2nd Day: Ran 50 rounds through and it ran flawlessly. I need to run a few hundred more before I'm totally comfortable that it won't happen again. 
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Posted: 3/10/2017 1:45:27 PM EDT
[#41]
I'm sure that duracoat gummed up the works. I know to keep them off the rails of a 1911!
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Posted: 3/10/2017 5:53:17 PM EDT
[#42]
I watched some videos by the guy that owns glock store and on his videos he said put grease on everything and put it on heavy while you break in the pistol so that is what I did and I had no issues
this thread is awesome 
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Posted: 3/10/2017 6:11:40 PM EDT
[#43]
Slide hanging up sounds like FTRTB, an issue that's plagued very Glock I've ever seen or touched. If it keeps happening, I've got the fix posted a few pages back.
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Posted: 3/10/2017 7:48:26 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Slide hanging up sounds like FTRTB, an issue that's plagued very Glock I've ever seen or touched. If it keeps happening, I've got the fix posted a few pages back. Is this what you are referring to? I've read an earlier post a few times about doing something like the following: -Pull back slide until barrel drops -Hold barrel down with pressure so that the slide cannot return to battery -hit the back of the slide with your palm or screwdriver handle (rubber) under tension until the slide returns forward -do it many times Is the issue with the barrel/locking block or with the trigger bar nubbin/slide plunger jobber? Both seem to be possible culprits... |
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Posted: 3/10/2017 8:25:25 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is this what you are referring to? I've read an earlier post a few times about doing something like the following: -Pull back slide until barrel drops -Hold barrel down with pressure so that the slide cannot return to battery -hit the back of the slide with your palm or screwdriver handle (rubber) under tension until the slide returns forward -do it many times Is the issue with the barrel/locking block or with the trigger bar nubbin/slide plunger jobber? Both seem to be possible culprits... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Slide hanging up sounds like FTRTB, an issue that's plagued very Glock I've ever seen or touched. If it keeps happening, I've got the fix posted a few pages back. Is this what you are referring to? I've read an earlier post a few times about doing something like the following: -Pull back slide until barrel drops -Hold barrel down with pressure so that the slide cannot return to battery -hit the back of the slide with your palm or screwdriver handle (rubber) under tension until the slide returns forward -do it many times Is the issue with the barrel/locking block or with the trigger bar nubbin/slide plunger jobber? Both seem to be possible culprits... Locking block issue. It persists even after you grind down the safety lever a smidge. And yes, that's the fix. Takes about 400-500 smacks to fix. Every Glock I've ever met has the problem, handbuilt or storebought. |
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Posted: 3/11/2017 12:21:53 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm sure that duracoat gummed up the works. I know to keep them off the rails of a 1911! Duracoat is repackaged auto paint and very thick, it should never be used on any "functional" surfaces in a firearm. |
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Posted: 3/11/2017 10:07:07 AM EDT
[#47]
I hadn't seen it mentioned here, but they're offering some more colors now in addition to the previous Black, OD, FDE, and White:
Robin Egg Blue: 
Tactical Grey: 
Purple: 
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm sure that duracoat gummed up the works. I know to keep them off the rails of a 1911! Duracoat is repackaged auto paint and very thick, it should never be used on any "functional" surfaces in a firearm. |
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Posted: 3/11/2017 8:20:31 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Locking block issue. It persists even after you grind down the safety lever a smidge. And yes, that's the fix. Takes about 400-500 smacks to fix. Every Glock I've ever met has the problem, handbuilt or storebought. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Slide hanging up sounds like FTRTB, an issue that's plagued very Glock I've ever seen or touched. If it keeps happening, I've got the fix posted a few pages back. Is this what you are referring to? I've read an earlier post a few times about doing something like the following: -Pull back slide until barrel drops -Hold barrel down with pressure so that the slide cannot return to battery -hit the back of the slide with your palm or screwdriver handle (rubber) under tension until the slide returns forward -do it many times Is the issue with the barrel/locking block or with the trigger bar nubbin/slide plunger jobber? Both seem to be possible culprits... Locking block issue. It persists even after you grind down the safety lever a smidge. And yes, that's the fix. Takes about 400-500 smacks to fix. Every Glock I've ever met has the problem, handbuilt or storebought. Right on, thanks... |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:16:06 PM EDT
[#49]
I built one this past week using a VDI slide. Everything seemed to go together fairly easy, I had to hand file the rear sides quite a bit and I had to remove some material from the mag well for my pmags to fit.
seems to function fine when operated by hand, but firing it does not go all the way to battery, some times it will when the trigger is released some times it requires a tap on the back of the slide. I thought it might be a difficulty of the extractor engaging the case, so I fired it "gangsta" style to the side and I realized it engaged, so I fired it again and found it functions flawlessly when fired on its side, but held regular it does not function for shit. it also had some stove pipes but I think those were ammo related (fiocchi, it didn't do that with Wolf) any idea what I messed up? 
P80 factory parts kit VDI "brawler" slide Green "factory" spring installed Magpul mags. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 7:29:42 PM EDT
[#50]
Maybe swap out the trigger block. I found those are a sore spot for this gun. Then perform the FTRTB fix described in posts above.
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