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Bought a couple Hogue Handall grip sleeves to see if I could make the grip a little more comfortable. The first one showed up yesterday, the "tactical" version. It was pretty hard to get over the flare in the magwell, so I hit it with a blow dryer for a minute to get it to stretch a little more easily. Didn't like how bulky it was, so I took it off and filed down the grip until it was mostly smooth. Fits a lot better now and is way more comfortable. I'll post again when I get the "full size" version and try it on. Before/after http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y442/samerickson89/Gun%20Stuff/CM161228-145948001_zpsuzvew1uw.jpghttp://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y442/samerickson89/Gun%20Stuff/CM161228-181519001_zpse5uzaw3x.jpg View Quote Ooh I like that, I might end up copying you. :) |
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Where's the best (cheapest) place to buy anew OEM slide parts kit?
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Finished mine a week ago, used a Bridgeport milling machine at work. I will also agree that the drills they sent with these are way undersized for the pins, and the jig is nearly useless for the slide cuts on the rear. That said I drilled out the pin holes a little more, then used a hand drill to "drill in" the pins, they went in quite easily with little tapping on the pins. Out to the range tommorow to test it.
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Finished mine a week ago, used a Bridgeport milling machine at work. I will also agree that the drills they sent with these are way undersized for the pins, and the jig is nearly useless for the slide cuts on the rear. That said I drilled out the pin holes a little more, then used a hand drill to "drill in" the pins, they went in quite easily with little tapping on the pins. Out to the range tommorow to test it. View Quote Agreed, I had to use a hand file to finish the slide rails, and I also had to enlarge the pin holes. Fitting the trigger bar was tedious, buy easy enough to do again now that I know what to expect. Good luck tomorrow! |
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These kits are a bag of headaches......... Where are all the positive slapped right together, no issues here comment?
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These kits are a bag of headaches......... Where are all the positive slapped right together, no issues here comment? View Quote Most of issues are coming from rear rails cutting. People tend to be overly careful and leave to much material which in return causing out of battery. Once I took care of rear rails all working just fine. I don't have trigger issues either. Using all glock parts. |
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Most of issues are coming from rear rails cutting. People tend to be overly careful and leave to much material which in return causing out of battery. Once I took care of rear rails all working just fine. I don't have trigger issues either. Using all glock parts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kpDI9QoVRI View Quote That's probably why the rails on the G19 sized p80 is a separate metal insert piece. |
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These kits are a bag of headaches......... Where are all the positive slapped right together, no issues here comment? View Quote Mine hasn't had a whole lot of issues. For an 80% I would say it was super easy compared to other receiver/frame builds I've attempted. Only real gripe I have is if Glock uses holes sized in millimeters on their pistol frames then the drill bits Polymer80 includes should be metric instead of standard. |
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Didn't see this posted yet or any references to it in the last 8 pages:
Midway USA Glock Frame Parts Kit All Glock factory parts in one shot. Includes the extended slide stop lever and extended mag release. All for $50 |
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Didn't see this posted yet or any references to it in the last 8 pages: Midway USA Glock Frame Parts Kit All Glock factory parts in one shot. Includes the extended slide stop lever and extended mag release. All for $50 View Quote Wish I could find a slide kit that cheap |
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Didn't see this posted yet or any references to it in the last 8 pages: Midway USA Glock Frame Parts Kit All Glock factory parts in one shot. Includes the extended slide stop lever and extended mag release. All for $50 View Quote |
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Finished mine. It works but the trigger reset is weak and mushy. Anyone else notice this sort of thing ? What can I do to make it crisp ?
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Didn't see this posted yet or any references to it in the last 8 pages: Midway USA Glock Frame Parts Kit All Glock factory parts in one shot. Includes the extended slide stop lever and extended mag release. All for $50 View Quote I think somebody asked this in another thread and the answer was that everything will work except one part and I can't remember what it was. This is a great deal and I don't want to pass it up if it will work for a 19. EDIT: Duh! I just looked a little further down and found the thread. 17-19 I understand locking block it different so is it just the "takedown lever spring" as cbsaf said? Also if it is only the takedown lever spring that is different, which one of these from the parts list is not correct for a 19? Sorry, difference in terminology is throwing me off- a Glock newb here. (From Midway's kit list)--
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Check the Polymer80 instagram... someone already did. View Quote Finished one in about an hour and a half with nothing but some files and the included drills. I reamed out the holes I drilled with the round needle file that came in my $4 Walmart set. The pins were very difficult to insert otherwise, they're still tight but manageable. The flat file that came with the cheap Walmart needle files was perfect for cutting the rail slots. I had the most trouble following the assembly instructions in the PDF. The trigger assembly and slide lock spring were my biggest problems because their installation isn't detailed very well in the instructions. I've never so much as field stripped a Glock before, so that made things more difficult for me. I plan on using a drill press and the included end mills on the next one I wind up doing, just to see how that works. The polymer is so easy to work with compared to any other builds I've done with metal. With a little patience almost anyone should be able to crank one of these out. YouTube is a great resource for assembly tutorials, that's how I got the slide lock and trigger assembly sorted out. |
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This coupon code should get you $5 off any order over $25. 37EA097 Post back if it works. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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My buddy left his with me to sort out a trigger issue. Trigger would not go back far enough to trip the striker, and would not allow the slide to go forward to be removed from the frame, it had to disassembled.
Compared triggers with a working model and it looks like a Glock OEM trigger was too long. I've got to check my invoices, but I'm near certain it was a LWD trigger that worked perfectly. |
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Does anybody know if this kit will also work for Glock 19 frame? I think somebody asked this in another thread and the answer was that everything will work except one part and I can't remember what it was. This is a great deal and I don't want to pass it up if it will work for a 19. EDIT: Duh! I just looked a little further down and found the thread. 17-19 I understand locking block it different so is it just the "takedown lever spring" as cbsaf said? Also if it is only the takedown lever spring that is different, which one of these from the parts list is not correct for a 19? Sorry, difference in terminology is throwing me off- a Glock newb here. (From Midway's kit list)--
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Hope this helps someone with the rail cutting.
My experience cutting the rear rails... The tools I used were the thin side of a small flat file from a cheap Harbor Freight kit, and a small flat head screwdriver the width of the slot on the jig (5/64") I used the jig first, but the depth only scribed a line on the frame. I would of had to cut deeper and into the jig. I was satisfied with the scribe mark and wanted to be on the safe side to hand fit the slide anyway so I didn't cut any deeper. I mounted the locking block with rails into the frame so I could put on the slide between cutting to check for fit. I started on the long rail first. This is the rail the slide contacts first. With the side of the file I started to cut a channel along the scribe mark created from the jig. Once I cut in a bit as a guide I switched to the flat head screwdriver and used it to scraped the channel deeper. It works really well at shaving off the polymer. I suppose you could sharpen the edge a bit too but could risk gouging if not careful. I used the file a bit in between but it tended to gum up. I kept at it checking for fit a lot as I went. I cut the depth until the slide would go on and touch the short rail. Just because it goes on doesn't mean the slide is aligned. If you think you are done and start cutting on the short rail your slide will be crooked. Checking for slide alignment I cut more until the slide shifted over and was in alignment with the top edge of the pistol frame. Then I cut the other side until the slide would go on with a little bit of friction and worked it in by hand. It took a couple hours to complete the rails but it feels and looks good. |
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Hope this helps someone with the rail cutting. My experience cutting the rear rails... The tools I used were the thin side of a small flat file from a cheap Harbor Freight kit, and a small flat head screwdriver the width of the slot on the jig (5/64") I used the jig first, but the depth only scribed a line on the frame. I would of had to cut deeper and into the jig. I was satisfied with the scribe mark and wanted to be on the safe side to hand fit the slide anyway so I didn't cut any deeper. I mounted the locking block with rails into the frame so I could put on the slide between cutting to check for fit. I started on the long rail first. This is the rail the slide contacts first. With the side of the file I started to cut a channel along the scribe mark created from the jig. Once I cut in a bit as a guide I switched to the flat head screwdriver and used it to scraped the channel deeper. It works really well at shaving off the polymer. I suppose you could sharpen the edge a bit too but could risk gouging if not careful. I used the file a bit in between but it tended to gum up. I kept at it checking for fit a lot as I went. I cut the depth until the slide would go on and touch the short rail. Just because it goes on doesn't mean the slide is aligned. If you think you are done and start cutting on the short rail your slide will be crooked. Checking for slide alignment I cut more until the slide shifted over and was in alignment with the top edge of the pistol frame. Then I cut the other side until the slide would go on with a little bit of friction and worked it in by hand. It took a couple hours to complete the rails but it feels and looks good. View Quote I'm surprised anyone uses the bits for cutting the slide rails. Using a file (and/or a saw like I do) is so much easier. I think they tell everybody to use the bits to make it look more complicated than it is. I wonder if it would've gotten ATF approval if their instructions had've been written "Go to Home Depot and buy a PVC saw and jewelers files, and thin the slide rails out until you can get the slide on." Using the bits at least makes it seem a little more complicated, like you're actually milling something. |
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19 has a different slide lock spring. Everything else will fit. 19 came with a trigger that has serrations but people change out to the smooth style one. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Does anybody know if this kit will also work for Glock 19 frame? I think somebody asked this in another thread and the answer was that everything will work except one part and I can't remember what it was. This is a great deal and I don't want to pass it up if it will work for a 19. EDIT: Duh! I just looked a little further down and found the thread. 17-19 I understand locking block it different so is it just the "takedown lever spring" as cbsaf said? Also if it is only the takedown lever spring that is different, which one of these from the parts list is not correct for a 19? Sorry, difference in terminology is throwing me off- a Glock newb here. (From Midway's kit list)--
I see what you are talking about with two different trigger part numbers from 17 to 19. I Googled the numbers and sure enough one is smooth (SP00357) and one is serrated (SP02303). And for anyone wondering- the part number for the Glock 19 slide lock spring is SP02317. |
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Sorted through my invoices and saw both triggers were the same. Compared the rest of the parts and the working gun uses a Glock trigger housing, the nonworking gun uses a LWD UTS trigger housing. No adjustment of the LWD part would make it work, so I ordered up all new parts for my friend.
I've narrowed the issue down to the engagement of the firing pin and the cruciform. It seems like the UTS is holding the cruciform up too high and not letting the trigger disengage it. I think it could fit the UTS so it sits a bit lower in the pocket, but that seems like a folks errand to me. Better to replace with known good. Thoughts? |
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Just ordered an OD green 17. I was worried about the lack of rear metal but it doesn't sound like that's a sticking point.
Now I'm just figuring out which slide to go with. I already grabbed a threaded 17 barrel. |
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Polymer80 posted a pic to their Facebook and Instagram pages of the what the PF940C with the textured grip option will look like.
I like. I was kind of waiting to pre-order until they gave some clue as to how they would texture it. link to pic of entire grip |
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Looks like the ergonomics on the PF940C will be a tad better than on the PF940.
The PF940 doesn't have horrible ergonomics but in my opinion they are inferior to the XD or Glock overall. The feel of the grip is blockier on the PF940. In descending order of grip ergonomics my impression is: Browning Hi-Power > XD > Glock (not counting grip angle) > PF940. |
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Mine now is flawless and dead on at 4" groups at 30 yds, $900 later.
Lonewolf long slide solid top, lonewolf 6" 357 sig and 40 s&w barrel, lonewolf 3.5 ghost spring and trigger, lonewolf firing pin, glock firing pin channel liner, Wolff 15 lb uncaptured recoil spring and matched firing pin spring. Recoils kinda hard with lighter spring but 100% reliable. With the solid top longslide I had a lot of reliability issues with the 17# spring. Standard glock sights, soon to upgrade but I can hit whatever I want and love the big beefy look |
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http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j368/98OldsBravada/WP_20170115_003_zps6zs4vjqr.jpg OD Frame, dremeled off bumps and smoothed upper beaver tail section (still needs a bit more finishing). Gun tape wrap. Suarez G17 RMR cut slide with cover plate. Glock 17 barrel Glock slide internals SS recoil assembly 17 lb. spring Glock trigger and ejector with Ghost 3.5 connector, Wolf springs Glock plastic sights with adjustable rear, for now. Glock extended slide release and mag release. I Have not fired it yet I just put on the sights today, but snap caps are loading and ejecting nicely and trigger is working. View Quote How is this setup going. |
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Took 3 to the range yesterday. All 3 had been failing the vertical spring test until...I pulled the slide back until the barrel hood dropped down, pressed down hard on the barrel hood to hold the slide in place, and then beat the slide into battery with the hilt of a Bowie knife on the slide plate a couple hundred times. A few hundred reps of that abuse, and they don't fail the vertical spring test and all chamber perfectly.
So if you're having failure-to-return-to-battery issues, beat the hell out of your slide plate. |
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Polymer80 posted a pic to their Facebook and Instagram pages of the what the PF940C with the textured grip option will look like. I like. I was kind of waiting to pre-order until they gave some clue as to how they would texture it. link to pic of entire grip http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/maximusscriptorius/pf940c%20grip_zpsepw9rulg.jpg View Quote @alpharomeofifteen At the NRA show in Harrisburg yesterday I had some hands on time with the new PF940C. The stippled version is as grippy or even grippier than a G4 glock. I stippled a SIRT pistol and I found my stippling to be a bit to aggressive for concealed carry but it was just a training pistol so no big deal. Anyway I just wanted to let people know the already stippled version is great it felt great and I am thinking about building one. I liked the slide they had on it to which I think is one they are offering. I love the 19 and I am not sure if ill build a PF940C or wait for a 19M or both but one thing about the PF940C the grip felt a bit more cramped than my current G4 19. There is a lip at the bottom of the PF940C and I think that is what caused the cramped feel. Other than that the grip actually felt pretty damn great. Oh and the demo they had at the NRA show had the G17 smooth trigger I almost commented to the guy but I left it go. It was damn near exactly how id set mine up but I am not sure what after market barrel I want yet. Edit: also I think I want to chop some of that beaver tail off the back considering I might conceal AIWB carry this. |
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Thanks for your comments and observations Nanashi. I pre-ordered the textured one from a dealer who is supposed to be second in line to get them so I hope it ships this week!
First pistol build and first Glock for me. I'm pretty stoked right now. |
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Super interesting!!
Has anyone tried a .22 conversion kit on this yet? I'm thinking it should work, right? |
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**edit - I may cancel my order
Just read from Polymyer80 that these do not fit the standard Glock 19/23 holsters, sort of a deal breaker for me as I am quite invested in holsters at the moment. |
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**edit - I may cancel my order Just read from Polymyer80 that these do not fit the standard Glock 19/23 holsters, sort of a deal breaker for me as I am quite invested in holsters at the moment. View Quote @Storz Yeah the rep I talked to at the NRA show said they would be working with companies to make holsters but for now nothing is out. I don't know if the trigger garde could be modified to make it work but my guess is no. What really sucks is these are unlikely to pick up major stream which means there won't be many holster options anyway. Lastly I don't care much for the gen three mag release. However, I'll probably build a custom one anyway and use it as my nightstand gun. |
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**edit - I may cancel my order Just read from Polymyer80 that these do not fit the standard Glock 19/23 holsters, sort of a deal breaker for me as I am quite invested in holsters at the moment. View Quote If you're up for making your own 80% Glock, why not go all the way and press your own kydex holster? Plenty of videos and websites dedicated to making your own kydex holster. |
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Super interesting!! Has anyone tried a .22 conversion kit on this yet? I'm thinking it should work, right? View Quote I can confirm that an Advantage Arms .22 conversion kit does function quite well with with this frame. Although, it is a little picky with ammo selection. You have to use higher power max velocity rounds. |
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**edit - I may cancel my order Just read from Polymyer80 that these do not fit the standard Glock 19/23 holsters, sort of a deal breaker for me as I am quite invested in holsters at the moment. View Quote Spectres fit the Bianchi Professional 100 IWB holster for the Sig 220 perfectly. I suspect that they'll fit most large handgun holsters, especially those made for the G20/21 series. |
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Any word or updates on the Polymer80 release date for the Compact (G19) size 80% frame ?
Seem to recall it was like mid-February - Would think there would have been some more info leaked if it was close. Sitting anxiously to get one |
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2/28 for textured version. 3/15 for the ready-mod (smooth) version.
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