User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 1:02:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: which trigger bar style are you all using? are these interchangeable? mine is the gold color 'gen 4' style that came with a P80 completion kit from trick glocks..
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=481&TERM=trigger%20bar http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=477&TERM=trigger%20bar https://www.trickglocks.com/11_58_70-glock-do-it-yourself-diy-parts-kits/2104-polymer80-spectre-complete-lower-receiver-parts-kit-17-17l-19-22-23-34-35-glock-oem-package.html http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=477&TERM=trigger%20bar http://www.trickglocks.com/11_58_70-glock-do-it-yourself-diy-parts-kits/2104-polymer80-spectre-complete-lower-receiver-parts-kit-17-17l-19-22-23-34-35-glock-oem-package.html |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 10:04:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I finished mine a few weeks ago. I went with a G17 build as I don't have any other guns in .40. I got a great deal on the frame on the EE and bought all new parts on GB for the remaining components. I'm at about 580.00 including 3 Magpul mags and one factory mag. To deal with the jig being somewhat loose, I drilled two holes in the negative space of the jig and tightened with 2 bolts (front and back). I found my HF drill press was too chattery to use the big end mill bit so I went with a belt sander instead for the front. The rear rails were fine with the small end mill bit and some filing. I reamed the holes by hand with the drill bits and then used a c-clamp to slowly press the pins in. I went slow and just enjoyed the time in the garage. I've only taken it to the range once. On that trip I ran about 60 rounds through it. I had quite a few FTRTB. I've since added the CC shim & I'm hoping that does the trick as I'm not to keen on filing the bar down. I have seen the option to smooth and polish the plunger. That along with a lighter plunger spring may solve that issue and seems to be the better choice. I have noticed that Magpul mags seems to be a bit too wide around the shoulder (leading up to the feed lips) and cause the slide release bind when sling-shotting a new round. To test, I bought a factory mag, it's thinner and I'm now not having issues when sling-shotting a round from the new, factory mag and a locked slide. It looks like I'll be able to remove a small amount of material to get the Magpul mags to function properly. Hopefully, I'll get to the range tomorrow and see what I've been able to fix. All in all, it was a fun project and I'm excited to get all the bugs worked out. Also, I do see some wear on the backside of the ejector housing (is this the correct term?) that the above posters have been notching...I may have to take a file to that as well. Anyways, great project and a fantastic thread for the shared experience. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 10:17:14 PM EDT
[#3]
I rechecked everything, clearanced the trigger bar and its still having the return to battery issue. I'm done buying parts to throw at the problem.
I have an $800 paperweight and epic buyers remorse. If anybody is interested in buying parts send a PM. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 10:42:13 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I rechecked everything, clearanced the trigger bar and its still having the return to battery issue. I'm done buying parts to throw at the problem. I have an $800 paperweight and epic buyers remorse. If anybody is interested in buying parts send a PM. I have done two, a 17, and a 34. All stock parts, and both were fine. I had to do finish work on both rear rails after the initial cutting to be reliable in battery. How does it shoot? The guy on youtube had ftrtb, and ftf on his first try. He was patient and fit the frame to the slide, and his work great. This frame is awesome, it just has to be fit, using stock parts. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 11:42:03 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would seriously try taking more off of the rear rails. Make the slotted part of the rail thinner by taking it off of the bottom, not the top. Use a sawzall blade, I used a 24tpi blade, and some small files to smooth things out. I have done two, a 17, and a 34. All stock parts, and both were fine. I had to do finish work on both rear rails after the initial cutting to be reliable in battery. How does it shoot? The guy on youtube had ftrtb, and ftf on his first try. He was patient and fit the frame to the slide, and his work great. This frame is awesome, it just has to be fit, using stock parts. It glides without effort.. until the trigger is used. Pulling the trigger pulls the slide backward out of lockup and it would fire out of battery. And it absolutely will not lock up on its own with the trigger pulled back. It is NOT safe to fire and I hope nobody loses an eye or fingers because of issues like this. What in the trigger mechanism would move the slide? I can only think of the contact between the trigger bar crucifix tab and the tab on the striker. Maybe the trigger housing sits too high so requires too much resistance and has to move the striker to fall beneath it? Before I file down the striker tab am I getting ahead of myself? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 10:10:41 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have the compact model with metal rear rails. Which I've already trimmed and polished. It glides without effort.. until the trigger is used. Pulling the trigger pulls the slide backward out of lockup and it would fire out of battery. And it absolutely will not lock up on its own with the trigger pulled back. It is NOT safe to fire and I hope nobody loses an eye or fingers because of issues like this. What in the trigger mechanism would move the slide? I can only think of the contact between the trigger bar crucifix tab and the tab on the striker. Maybe the trigger housing sits too high so requires too much resistance and has to move the striker to fall beneath it? Before I file down the striker tab am I getting ahead of myself? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 11:31:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Sounds like your firing pin safety depressor on the trigger bar might be riding to high and sticking on the side of the plunger rather than pushing it into the slide recess
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 2:21:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sounds like your firing pin safety depressor on the trigger bar might be riding to high and sticking on the side of the plunger rather than pushing it into the slide recess Despite the initial rubbing, I never had a malfunction. After a few rounds through it, it smoothed out and passes the RTB spring test fine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 4:12:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Try contacting Polymer 80 and see if they will send you a rear rail. I have read on other forums that folks with ftrtb issues called, and were sent a new rear rail that solved the problem. I thought you had a full size, sorry for misunderstanding.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 11:56:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Try contacting Polymer 80 and see if they will send you a rear rail. I have read on other forums that folks with ftrtb issues called, and were sent a new rear rail that solved the problem. I thought you had a full size, sorry for misunderstanding. The trigger bar safety tab is ground way down short. Its not what's causing the problem. I've verified with marker that its not contacting the slide anymore. When the trigger is pulled, is the striker supposed to move further back than the reset position? Or is it at its full travel already? It seems when the trigger bar crucifix contacts the striker tab, I get resistance and thats when the slide unlocks. The rear of the trigger guard pushes the striker backward a little, before it slips underneath it, and the slide jumps back into battery. Might this have something to do with pins being a hair too far back like the full size? I'm about to shorten the rear of the trigger bar but I'll wait for some ideas first. I'm learning a lot about the platform, that's for sure. I appreciate all the input |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 1:29:29 AM EDT
[#11]
Did you disassemble the slide and make sure you have a channel liner? if not, the striker can bind and potentially cause what you are seeing. I would not alter stock parts that should work. I have spent 26 years troubleshooting and repairing equipment. It is easy to strip the slide, there are many videos showing how to do it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 8:39:32 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When the trigger is pulled, is the striker supposed to move further back than the reset position? Or is it at its full travel already? It seems when the trigger bar crucifix contacts the striker tab, I get resistance and thats when the slide unlocks. The rear of the trigger guard pushes the striker backward a little, before it slips underneath it, and the slide jumps back into battery. Mig The striker is supposed to move back as the trigger is pulled - unlike an M&P, for example, where the striker is at "full-cock" when the slide is in battery. If your slide is being pulled out of battery as the trigger is pulled it would seem to me that there is something binding the striker assembly, preventing it from moving backwards on it's own and taking the whole slide with it as the cruciform tries to push the striker back. I'd disassemble the slide and double check that everything is installed correctly and try to find the reason the striker is binding up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 9:57:48 AM EDT
[#13]
Are there any more dedicated threads to the new Polymer 80 Glock 19 compact frame builds?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 11:22:22 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are there any more dedicated threads to the new Polymer 80 Glock 19 compact frame builds? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 1:50:33 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I agree with the poster above. With what you are describing here, it sounds like you have a problem with the slide, not the frame. The striker is supposed to move back as the trigger is pulled - unlike an M&P, for example, where the striker is at "full-cock" when the slide is in battery. If your slide is being pulled out of battery as the trigger is pulled it would seem to me that there is something binding the striker assembly, preventing it from moving backwards on it's own and taking the whole slide with it as the cruciform tries to push the striker back. I'd disassemble the slide and double check that everything is installed correctly and try to find the reason the striker is binding up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 2:07:07 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I rechecked everything, clearanced the trigger bar and its still having the return to battery issue. I'm done buying parts to throw at the problem. I have an $800 paperweight and epic buyers remorse. If anybody is interested in buying parts send a PM. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 6:00:34 PM EDT
[#17]
It was the channel liner. Installing my old one, I tapped it too far to where it flattened out at the end, causing a small ridge to form.
Luckily I had ordered a spare and threw the new one in today. When I got it close to fully seated, I tested it after each tap til it went no further than necessary for the cover plate to clear. Function tested perfectly, no hesitation into full battery even really riding the slide. Lubed it and took it to the range. Fired 50rds of 115gr Federal brass. Round 18 was a failure to eject. It almost cleared the top of the slide but not quite. Everything else was very smoothe. I can rapidly fire on target quite well. Ejection was good, about 4:00 and none hit me. Will shoot another 50 tomorrow and hopefully have 0 failures. Reccomemdations for a low-priced AIWB holster? Thanks all |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 6:02:38 PM EDT
[#18]
Knowing what I do now, if any glock is having failure to battery issues and the spring is good, I'd throw in a new liner after really cleaning out the bore.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 6:56:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Glad you found it. Once I understood what was happening, this was not hard to pin down.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2017 1:30:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Knowing what I do now, if any glock is having failure to battery issues and the spring is good, I'd throw in a new liner after really cleaning out the bore. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2017 1:30:59 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you disassemble the slide and make sure you have a channel liner? if not, the striker can bind and potentially cause what you are seeing. I would not alter stock parts that should work. I have spent 26 years troubleshooting and repairing equipment. It is easy to strip the slide, there are many videos showing how to do it. 
good call and good save man. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2017 3:46:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Another 100rds today. No failures. Once in the middle of a bill drill I felt like I outran the gun and had a delayed reset but it might have just been my lack of familiarity coming from a 1911 background.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/24/2017 12:30:12 PM EDT
[#23]
taking mine out to shoot today. will range report when i'm done.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/24/2017 5:21:44 PM EDT
[#24]
Took the compact Poly80 out today and was very impressed with the results.
My buddy managed one failure with the trigger not resetting but we're pretty sure he indiced it. I had two FTF on the second round of two mags but realized I was pressing up in the extended slide release and causing the slide to lock back. Ran over 300 rounds through it with some liberal lubing but nothing crazy, only used Remoil. Everything on the gun is stock, from the slide and upper assembly to the LPK.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/24/2017 5:36:24 PM EDT
[#25]
here i am shooting my poly80. i looked at the slide after the first shot b/c i had my self induced failure the previous mag. this was near the end of my three hundred rounds. the slide didn't lock back b/c i was probably pressing down on the slide release. it was a very fun/nice shooter.
 Shooting my Glock 19 |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/24/2017 9:28:49 PM EDT
[#26]
Nice! My full size work great. Going to reduce the size of the grips, removing the front and rear textures, and make them smooth. Then I will install one of these.
You can find them on ebay for around 10 bucks. Super sticky, and not abrasive.  Tuff1 Gun Grip Cover |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2017 8:27:25 AM EDT
[#27]
Since this is the de facto Polymer80 thread, I figured I'd post what I'll be digging into in the next couple of weeks and maybe see if the hive can anticipate any issues I'll run into.
I've got a Gen1 G17 with a small crack on the mag well portion of the grip. Between that and the tactical bar of soap feel, I don't shoot it much and its kind of a waste. It has zero collector value, previous owner had "Hanna" lightly engraved on both sides of the slide. But its had the parts upgrade I believe since none of my parts are black inside. I emailed Polymer80 to see if their kit would work with a Gen1 slide and they said no. But I had already ordered the kit, and since I know that glock has put Gen3 frames under Gen1 slides before when the Gen1 frames are warranty replaced. So I've decided that unless there's a safety concern, I'm going to make it work as long as I don't have to modify anything in the slide. Frankly, the 1.5 Polymer80 G17 frame is butt ugly to me, but for $70 and some spare parts that I've already got laying around I can deal with it. I also have a dremel and sandpaper so I can "improve" its looks if I get it to run. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/29/2017 3:10:21 PM EDT
[#28]
Old lonewolf slide |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2017 2:34:17 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote History |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2017 9:06:48 AM EDT
[#30]
I finally got mine working I think - the big problem with mine was the rear rails...they were "wrong". I don't know if it was a jig drilling issue and they were too high up, or if they were just too thick full stop...but neither a Gen 2, Gen 4, or aftermarket Gen 3 slide would work on them without some drag, and that was without anything else installed in the gun; no trigger, no barrel lock, no sear housing, etc. Once I ground it down a bit (filing wasn't doing it), it started to cycle smoothly. It still gets hung up a little bit just before going into battery. I noticed that it got hung up a lot at first with just the barrel lock installed, and then throwing in the sear housing made it worse. The more I cycle it now the easier it gets to chamber. I've got about 70 rounds through it post-grinding of the rails and it cycles a lot better now.
Right now my only gripe is the lower parts kit I got from Midway - it came with an extended mag catch (which is great) and extended slide stop (which is shit  ). I need to swap that out for a normal unit.
I need to put another couple hundred through it before I call it good, but so far it's looking like a keeper. If Glock modified their frames to be identical to this, they'd easily basically be the only handgun worth owning. The P80 frame is so much more comfortable and a lot easier to hold onto if you get the textured frame...it honestly makes a factory Glock frame look like an unfinished prototype, ergonomics-wise. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2017 4:14:44 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I finally got mine working I think - the big problem with mine was the rear rails...they were "wrong". I don't know if it was a jig drilling issue and they were too high up, or if they were just too thick full stop...but neither a Gen 2, Gen 4, or aftermarket Gen 3 slide would work on them without some drag, and that was without anything else installed in the gun; no trigger, no barrel lock, no sear housing, etc. Once I ground it down a bit (filing wasn't doing it), it started to cycle smoothly. It still gets hung up a little bit just before going into battery. I noticed that it got hung up a lot at first with just the barrel lock installed, and then throwing in the sear housing made it worse. The more I cycle it now the easier it gets to chamber. I've got about 70 rounds through it post-grinding of the rails and it cycles a lot better now. Right now my only gripe is the lower parts kit I got from Midway - it came with an extended mag catch (which is great) and extended slide stop (which is shit ). I need to swap that out for a normal unit.
I need to put another couple hundred through it before I call it good, but so far it's looking like a keeper. If Glock modified their frames to be identical to this, they'd easily basically be the only handgun worth owning. The P80 frame is so much more comfortable and a lot easier to hold onto if you get the textured frame...it honestly makes a factory Glock frame look like an unfinished prototype, ergonomics-wise. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2017 5:45:16 PM EDT
[#32]
What do you mean? I don't have a Gen 3 frame anywhere? This is a thread about P80 %80 frames, not factory Glock complete ones?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2017 6:17:01 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What do you mean? I don't have a Gen 3 frame anywhere? This is a thread about P80 %80 frames, not factory Glock complete ones? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2017 6:58:31 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
shit i'm sorry, i meant a gen 3 slide. 
I don't have any Gen 3 G19s...I have a G17L, but that's not quite right for this So, I used what I had on hand.
I wound up buying a Lone Wolf G19 Gen3 slide, stainless, for this...and it's pretty slick actually. I'm really digging the two-tone look. Once I verify it actually works as expected in another 500 or so rounds, I might even start carrying the stupid thing. Assuming I can find a holster that'll fit this funky frame.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/1/2017 5:56:59 PM EDT
[#35]
So, I'm a moron. Those of you who know me won't be surprised at this statement
I couldn't figure out why it was still hanging up on cycling the slide, so I started looking at other Glocks I had laying around. One thing I noticed was the slide lock spring was flush to the frame on all my Glocks...but on this thing it was a little bit proud. I wouldn't believe that was the cause of the rough cycling at all...until I removed the slide lock and spring. The slide then cycled in an out of battery as smoothly as any of my Glocks. So then I started looking at the slide lock spring; maybe the leg was too tall? Something? Nope! What had happened was, I never pushed it down far enough/hard enough for it to correctly lock into the frame. I had to put some weight behind it and it finally popped into place correctly...and now it cycles smoothly, like it should have in the first place. 
So, those of you who have a P80 and seems fine except it gets all glitchy and clingy when cycling the slide, especially when it's closing back up...try removing the slide lock/spring and see if that smoothes it out. If it does, you need to put more pressure on the slide lock spring to drive it as deep as it needs to go to seat correctly; you'll know when it pops into place. Most of you probably already know this; I just figured it out and I'm proud of myself for doing so, sorry
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/1/2017 8:47:33 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, I'm a moron. Those of you who know me won't be surprised at this statement
I couldn't figure out why it was still hanging up on cycling the slide, so I started looking at other Glocks I had laying around. One thing I noticed was the slide lock spring was flush to the frame on all my Glocks...but on this thing it was a little bit proud. I wouldn't believe that was the cause of the rough cycling at all...until I removed the slide lock and spring. The slide then cycled in an out of battery as smoothly as any of my Glocks. So then I started looking at the slide lock spring; maybe the leg was too tall? Something? Nope! What had happened was, I never pushed it down far enough/hard enough for it to correctly lock into the frame. I had to put some weight behind it and it finally popped into place correctly...and now it cycles smoothly, like it should have in the first place.
So, those of you who have a P80 and seems fine except it gets all glitchy and clingy when cycling the slide, especially when it's closing back up...try removing the slide lock/spring and see if that smoothes it out. If it does, you need to put more pressure on the slide lock spring to drive it as deep as it needs to go to seat correctly; you'll know when it pops into place. Most of you probably already know this; I just figured it out and I'm proud of myself for doing so, sorry |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/1/2017 8:49:17 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, I'm a moron. Those of you who know me won't be surprised at this statement
I couldn't figure out why it was still hanging up on cycling the slide, so I started looking at other Glocks I had laying around. One thing I noticed was the slide lock spring was flush to the frame on all my Glocks...but on this thing it was a little bit proud. I wouldn't believe that was the cause of the rough cycling at all...until I removed the slide lock and spring. The slide then cycled in an out of battery as smoothly as any of my Glocks. So then I started looking at the slide lock spring; maybe the leg was too tall? Something? Nope! What had happened was, I never pushed it down far enough/hard enough for it to correctly lock into the frame. I had to put some weight behind it and it finally popped into place correctly...and now it cycles smoothly, like it should have in the first place.
So, those of you who have a P80 and seems fine except it gets all glitchy and clingy when cycling the slide, especially when it's closing back up...try removing the slide lock/spring and see if that smoothes it out. If it does, you need to put more pressure on the slide lock spring to drive it as deep as it needs to go to seat correctly; you'll know when it pops into place. Most of you probably already know this; I just figured it out and I'm proud of myself for doing so, sorry |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/1/2017 10:10:56 PM EDT
[#38]
So here's where I'm at, been working on one specific problem for the last few hours (with a break to hang out with the kiddo....).
First, the rear trigger housing pin wouldn't line up correctly. The hole wasn't correct on one side and you could visibly see the RRM in one of the holes so there wasn't enough clearance. Emailed Polymer80 and they sent out a new RRM to see if it was out of spec and would solve the problem. Good on them, it was here in two days, but same issue. So, I assumed the jig itself must have been out of spec since the hole was perfect and straight on both sides relative to the jig. Emailed Polymer80 again before moving forward with my idea, they said go for it, it should be fine and if not, then take pictures before and after and they'll process a warranty. At that point, i gently widened the hole with the drill bit. Worked, holes a little bigger than it needs to be, but not egregious and with the two holes of the RRM and the trigger housing and one good hole, that pin isn't going anywhere. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/1/2017 10:11:28 PM EDT
[#39]
Now, to my FTRTB problem. I've been working this slide all night, just back and forth to try and make a nice channel for it. It will finally RTB with the slide release about 90% of the time, but won't RTB riding the slide. It just gets caught up about 90% of the way. Won't RTB at all against gravity.
1. Stripped the slide EXCEPT for the channel liner. Same issue, so doesn't seem to be a plunger problem. 2. Removed the locking block to check the movement and it seemed to be a little better, but far from perfect, so.... 3. Tried the slide lock and spring, it's not flush with the frame, but it's as far as I can get it. (I may go back tomorrow at it and really try and get it in there since maybe I'm just missing something but it doesn't seem to have anywhere else down to go....). 4. Swapped out the 336 ejector for the 30724 since that seemed to be the first spot of a lot of binding, with the hook of the ejector binding on the slide plate cover a bit. Seems to be working a little ridge to move easier. 5. Actually tried both RRMs that I have and without force, the slide is continually getting hung up on the RRM when attaching it to the frame. So, I might go after one of these RRMs to see if I can lower the top of the rails. Any suggestions welcome... Time to put it away for the night. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/2/2017 7:24:39 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now, to my FTRTB problem. I've been working this slide all night, just back and forth to try and make a nice channel for it. It will finally RTB with the slide release about 90% of the time, but won't RTB riding the slide. It just gets caught up about 90% of the way. Won't RTB at all against gravity. 3. Tried the slide lock and spring, it's not flush with the frame, but it's as far as I can get it. (I may go back tomorrow at it and really try and get it in there since maybe I'm just missing something but it doesn't seem to have anywhere else down to go....). It took a lot of force to get my slide lock spring to seat correctly; I'm talking "balancing all 250lb of myself on a punch on top of the slide lock spring" kind of force. I was a little afraid I was going to crack the frame, but it eventually popped in. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 6:18:56 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does it cycle without the slide lock spring installed? It took a lot of force to get my slide lock spring to seat correctly; I'm talking "balancing all 250lb of myself on a punch on top of the slide lock spring" kind of force. I was a little afraid I was going to crack the frame, but it eventually popped in. The hardest part of the build was getting that little slide lock spring seated so that it was flush/below grade in it's slot. I ended up using small pliers to straighten the bottom leg a hair and used my 9 year old as a third and fourth hand to hold the thing in place at the right angle as I used a punch and pliers to get it seated... only took four hands and three tools to get it in there. Simple. 
Slide is on and stiff, but it hand function checks properly and the trigger is honestly pretty decent.... currently working on polishing the rear rail up a bit before I start the process of breaking it in tomorrow... got 500 rounds of steel case to litter the floor of my local indoor ripoff range (they keep whatever hits the floor... bastards) |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 6:35:16 PM EDT
[#42]
If you really want to be mean, use aluminum cased ammo
My local wally world has Federal aluminum at less than $10/50
I won't shoot it through anything with a can on it anymore, too many problems; but for blasting...should be ok... |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 9:16:00 AM EDT
[#43]
I finally got some time last night to go back at it also.
I rechecked without the slide lock and for some reason last night it seemed way better. (Maybe changing to the 30724 ejector helped....). So, I went back at the slide lock spring. That thing is a damn pain. It wasn't a brute force thing for me so much as a finesse act of surgical precision using two punches like scalpels to get that small lip on the end of the L to find its slot. For those trying to figure it out, I used one punch in the slide lock itself's slot to sort of hold the spring up at an angle so I could then apply pressure to the "L" end to push that lip down into the spot it seats. Frankly, I think it was just luck that it only took me about 15 minutes of screwing around to get it to seat. I could see someone being there for an hour or more dropping that thing all over the floor repeatedly until you get it in. BUUUUUUUT, when it's in, you'll know. So, everything checks out right now, going to work in the slide a bit more, which is pretty stiff for now as well, and hopefully get it to the range this weekend. Otherwise though, it moves pretty smoothly right now. Thanks EvilEd for convincing me to go back and look at it once more before trying more drastic measures. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 9:37:41 AM EDT
[#44]
Yup, it's a bitch to get it all into place. Once it's in though, you'll know.
Now that I figured it out, I want to order a few more frames, just to make them work right without spending a lot of time trying to fit things that aren't the problem
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 1:54:25 PM EDT
[#45]
Is polymer 80 reading this thread? Seems like a great time to jump in and offer help if they are.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 2:45:53 PM EDT
[#46]
The idea of buying and building a polymer 80% frame has interested and intrigued me a bit. But reading this thread has discouraged me from following through. I just bought the stripped Glock frame and paid the FFL fee instead.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 3:58:17 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is polymer 80 reading this thread? Seems like a great time to jump in and offer help if they are. EMailed them twice and had responses same day both times, one involved sending out a part that generated a shipping notification within 5 minutes of me sending the address. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 4:12:19 PM EDT
[#48]
Working on tuning my compact version... I think I've figured out where the ATF figured at least 20% of the work goes into it. finishing the rear rail.
I spent about an hour and half doing the frame polymer work to get the rails in. I have spent about three hours today on the rear rail with jewelers files, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit sand papers and finally a few grades of buffing compound on the smallest dremel buffing wheel I have. I think I've just about completed the work.
The rear rail on the left side (slide release side of the frame) was flat on the top edge and the bottom side (closest to the polymer) was arched when I put a flat file underneath to see how level it was. Anyone else have an arched rail? Is that supposed to be like that? |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 4:59:16 PM EDT
[#49]
Well my gen 1 slide seems to work just fine on the poly 80 1.5 frame. Won't know for sure until I get to shoot it, of course.
Waiting on a few trinkets for the frame, and in the mean time I'm doing a little body work on the frame. There were a few spots on the frame, mostly the beaver tail/backstrap area, that were really uncomfortable for my hand. I already had the dremel warmed up so why not make this thing work for me. Anyway, here is my progress so far (about 2 hrs in). Looooong way to go.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 6:52:38 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Working on tuning my compact version... I think I've figured out where the ATF figured at least 20% of the work goes into it. finishing the rear rail.
I spent about an hour and half doing the frame polymer work to get the rails in. I have spent about three hours today on the rear rail with jewelers files, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit sand papers and finally a few grades of buffing compound on the smallest dremel buffing wheel I have. I think I've just about completed the work.
The rear rail on the left side (slide release side of the frame) was flat on the top edge and the bottom side (closest to the polymer) was arched when I put a flat file underneath to see how level it was. Anyone else have an arched rail? Is that supposed to be like that? |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
