carry weapon is gen 3 glock 26

a local gunsmith in Las Vegas offers a $250 trigger job, that doesn't replace any OEM parts for glock handguns.
the end result is an ultra smooth 2.5 lb pull with a "small" hump instead of a "wall." and as i stated earlier, none of the stock parts of the trigger assembly are replaced.
i tested it out on a modified glock 17 they had in the shop.  it felt very similar to the walther ppq stock trigger, but maybe just a little lighter.

what are your opinions about doing this to a carry weapon?


on another note, i feel like i want to go either LIGHTER or HEAVIER with the weight of the trigger.


my personal thoughts are that with a heavy trigger, you can "stage" the trigger "safely" as soon as you draw and level the gun at the threat, just prior to sighting in and firing.  with a heavy trigger your normal reaction is to jerk the trigger to try to make it fire quickly, which will throw off your aim.
but if u pull through the slack just enough to get to the heavy "wall" it seems that it would never fire unless u genuinely intended, especially if u get an 8+ lb pull. and from the "wall", it only takes about 1/8 inch of travel to fire... which sort of simulates a 1911 trigger.

i would like your opinions on this concept as well... hopefully a little more thought-out than just the typical "never stage the trigger! ever!" :)

thanks

-David

Does it retain all the internal safeties?

Some aftermarket trigger mods affect their function.

You should shoot USPSA with your gun as-is. I think you'll find the concept of pre-loading the trigger will fade after you excitedly shoot the ground in front of you as you bring the pistol up to the target. and that's under the stress of friendly competition, not a life-or-death situation.

I'm not telling you to do anything I don't do. I shoot USPSA and steel competitions with my carry gun using my carry holster with my carry mags.

can't really comment on the "internal safeties" because i didn't think to ask.  he kinda gave me a quick and vague description, like "we line up all the parts perfectly and eliminate all the inconsistencies that result from mass production"


Ryjones, completely agree with your statement, and glad to hear you shoot competitions with your carry weapon.  i didn't really care for the idea of a "competition gun" that you get good with, just to be stuck with a different gun when it counts.

i suppose you just get used to the trigger travel/weight with experience and time?

also, are there a good bit of competitions that allow RMR sights?  i'm really starting to consider installing one on my carry and i may end up following your advice of taking it to competitions.

I'm not saying get used to it, I'm saying shoot enough so that you know what you want and what your stock trigger isn't doing for you. Save the $250 you might spend on a trigger job, instead, spend it on ammo and entry fees.

If you shoot open class the sky is the limit. Personally, I don't compete with one only because I haven't had the money to get a slide melt done. As soon as I can swing it, I'll do it.

If your talking about bentwood than what they do is amazing work, and you have nothing to fear.

Other shops in town it's hit or miss. As for what the other guys posted about maybe spending the money with more trigger time is something to think about. Because if it's your carry gun and you spend 250 on the trigger job, you going to want to spend another 150 or more on ammo to get comfortable with a new trigger.

Either way it's a great excuse to get to the range.

Ry's suggestion would be ideal...a season of shooting and you can answer all your questions by yourself.

Sure you could shoot an RMR in games, but you will probably be bumped up to open class.  I dont mind, I shoot to get some practice with my carry gun (my carry gun is a G19 with an RMR).

I get weird looks sometimes though when I come to the line in a concealed AIWB rig with spare magazines in my pockets.

If you are ever been in an actual self defense shooting, you won't "stage" the trigger.

Dave N

What a rip off!
Bullshit on the 2.5# trigger without changing a part that would require at minimum springs and connector change.

OP do you actually even practice shooting from holster?  Have you ever had professional training on defensive shooting?  If not invest in it I can read your post and see you have no knowledge of even the basic gun rules.  
FINGER OFF TRIGGER UNTIL READY TO FIRE!  You do not stage a trigger for any reason you are asking for a ND.

$250 trigger job on a Glock?  

Buy a Zev "starter kit" connector and springs for $30.  Leave the striker spring stock, but put in the trigger spring and safety plunger spring.  If you're capable of typing on a keyboard, you have enough mechanical skill to install these parts.

 
Where to start?  OK, first, don’t put a 2 1/2 lb. trigger on any striker-fired EDC weapon because, if you do, you’ll only be asking for trouble.  

Second, $250 dollars is a lot of money for a Glock trigger job - A whole lot of money!  There’s enough information on-line (Like on this forum, itself!) for you to be able to do your own very acceptable trigger job on your own Glock.  For instance, if it were my Glock I’d simply polish all the contact points along the trigger bar; and I’d change the stock connector out for an (almost) drop-in EVO Connector from Ghost, Inc.*  

In the alternative you could get one of Ghost's drop-in Edge Connectors along with one of Charlie Vanek's (almost) drop-in Custom Trigger Housings with an installed trigger stop; and a set of Wolff Gunsprings, heavier, 6 lb. Trigger and Striker Springs.  This is the mechanical setup I use on two of my Glocks; and they're GTG for everyday street carry, and/or acceptable for use at many (but not all) competition pistol events.  

As for staging your trigger?  I usually don’t; and neither do I teach combat pistol shooting this way; but, there’s never only one way to do something right.  As I’ve learned, while tapping or pulling all the way through is usually the right way to use a pistol trigger, it is not always the only way to solve a problem.  With this in mind you should, nevertheless, train to either tap, or pull the trigger all the way through every time you decide to fire.  

There is no acceptable excuse for, ‘letting one go’ into the ground in front of you.  That’s always indicative of inadequate training, not enough practice, or an unforgivably lazy trigger finger.  Until the muzzle reaches a vertical 4 - 4:30 position in front of your feet, your finger should never be inside the trigger guard.  (A negligent discharge like this hasn’t happened to me, even once, with a pistol trigger in more than 50 years of shooting.  Still, a 2 1/2 lb. trigger doesn’t belong on a striker-fired pistol.)  

You have said, ‘With a heavy trigger your normal reaction is to jerk the trigger, to try to make it fire quickly, which will throw off your aim; but if you pull through the slack just enough to get to the heavy, 'wall' it seems that it would never fire unless you genuinely intended, especially if you get an 8+ lb pull and from the, ‘wall'.

Not true!  Only an inexperienced pistolero would say that.  I think that by the time you put 4 or 5 thousand rounds through a Glock you will have an entirely different opinion.  Your question has, now, run through both extremes.  On the one end you’re way too light with a 2 1/2 lb. pull; and on the other end you’re way too heavy at 8 lb.  

Many people I shoot with have asked me to do trigger jobs on their Glocks for them.  First, they shoot one of my Glocks; and, then, they want the same trigger on their Glocks too.  Know what my trigger pulls are?  They range from 4.9 to 5.2 lb.  There's nothing, ‘light’ about these Glock triggers - Right!  The actions are mirror-polished, though; and the trigger and striker springs are heavier, rather than lighter.  There’s also a mechanical setscrew stop at the end of the trigger’s travel, too.  

The impression other shooters get when they fire one of my Glocks is that the trigger is smooth; and the reset is clean and sharp.  Most often a Glock is (or should be) fired from the trigger’s reset position.  My resets are so crisp and so clean that nobody has noticed, yet, that my trigger pulls are actually fairly heavy.  

If I were to advocate one thing about Glock triggers it would be to shoot your Glock enough to become very used to the way that the trigger works, and the pistol fires.  Too light a pull is bad; too heavy a pull is also bad, but for a different reason.  On a Glock trigger, ‘mush’ means nothing to me.  It’s strictly a characteristic of the first trigger pull; and, quite frankly, I’ve learned to rely on it being there in order to give me a little extra time to either line up the shot, or decide whether or not I really want to fire.  

When I’m moving quickly I don’t even notice the so-called, ‘mush’; nor do I notice the so-called, ‘wall’.  My focus is on properly gripping the pistol, and lining up the muzzle with the target.  The actual trigger pull occurs very quickly, and, ‘just happens’.  Tapping a combat pistol’s trigger, as well as knowing, ‘When’ to tap it, is more of a feeling in your mind than it is in your finger.  Consequently, I take all of these comments about, ‘walls’ and, ‘mush’ with a proverbial grain of salt.  Shoot more, and you’ll think about insignificant stuff like this a lot less.    



*  Minor mechanical fitting is required; so, if you go this route, pick up Ghost's reduced height Armorer's Plate, a Glock Armorer's Tool, and - if you don't have, or don't know how to properly use a Dremel Tool - a set of easy-to-use, EZE-Lap Diamond Sharpening Sticks, too.

Raven u covers all bases - nothing to add here!

If your using it for comp. hell yeah, mod that sucker out to your heart's desire. If your carrying it for personal protection, leave it the F alone. If you ever have to shoot to protect yourself, a liberal prosecutor will have a field day with the fact that you lightened the trigger pull.

This shit again...... show me a documented case where this has happened.  A good shoot is a good shoot.  
Not to mention all the DA/SA pistol they have very light triggers.

 
 Hey, leave Mr. Ayoob alone!  He's entitled to have his opinion, too; and, besides, supporting this hypothesis is a large part of how he earns his living.  So, if Mas says that modifying your Glock's trigger is a bad thing to do, then, three or four million other Glock owners must be wrong!*    



*  What fun would internet gun forums be if great myths like this were, all, to be exposed!  'Drama' can be a good thing.  By the way, did you know that many police departments are, now, beginning to install (-) minus connectors in their department Glocks!  Oh, wow, huh!  

IMO that is a good thing... I believe most flyers LEO's send off during shoot outs are because of poor trigger control and heavy triggers.  How many bystanders get shot in NY shootings all the time I believe some correlation exist between heavy triggers and officers not shooting their service weapon near enough.

My carry pistol has a - connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger comes in right around 4# and the reset is perfection.  It feels really close to the PPQ and VP9 trigger just a tad lighter by a bit.