Have a gen 2 g22 that has light primer strikes 2 to 3 times per magazine.

I have detail stripped the gun and really cleaned the slide as well.

If it was a constant issue, then I could potentially diagnose it, but this one has me confused.  The recoil spring was replaced 200-300 rounds ago and it seemed to help for a little while.  The spring should last longer than that, correct?

Any thoughts appreciated.

If striker channel is clean and DRY as it should be, my first guess would be to replace the striker spring with a new one.

I would start by cleaning the firing pin channel and replacing the firing pin spring.  Are the light hits centered on the primer?  If not you have a dangerous condition, it is attempting to fire out of battery.

Check the striker, any damage to the tip?  Broken tips on MIM strikers are not rare, especially if you've been shooting a lot of frangible/eco-friendly ammo with hard primers

I might replace the firing pin channel liner for the hell of it

Factory ammo or reloads?  Check primer depth?

Clean and dry, but when i first got the gun in 1998, i did have a habit of oiling the striker.  Could the striker channels be jacked up. I do the shake time and all sound normal.

Edit, was responding to P_M.

Mostly reloads, but with one mag of factory, it did the same thing.

My gen3 g27 works perfect with the same ammo.  Could i swap the striker and spring and see if that fixes it?

My guess is striker spring man. If you've had the gun that long, you've probably put a lot of rounds through it - probably more than you think and I'd imagine the striker spring is definitely due for a swap.

Looks like i should put a Brownells order together and order some new springs.  

To answer some of the questions above, the primer light strikes were slightly off center, but fired on the second strike.  Primers are wolf/tula.  Load is 4.6gr w231 165 Xtreme 165gr FP

Wolf Tula do sometimes use harder primers.  That coupled with probably a weakening striker spring he just exposed a problem.  I would suggest replacing the striker spring and take a q-tip and clean and dry out the channel.

I would bet my next paycheck that a new firing pin spring and firing pin channel liner will cure it.  Glock parts.  No reduced power springs.

Or throw the G27 striker and spring in there, that will probably work as well if the firing pin channel is clean.

Good luck brother.

I am going to swap the striker/spring and how it goes.  Thanks!

Clean the firing pin canal.

Are there any marks on the firing pin safety plunger from the firing pin scraping it?  If anyone ever did a trigger job on it and polished the lifter on the trigger bar too much it may not lift the plunger enough.

I've had a difficult time getting wolf/tula primers to be 100% in my Glock.  They work fine in other guns so I've just resorted to using american primers when I reload ammo for my Glock.  I've swapped recoil striker springs to no avail.

I have some Winchester and CCI primers.  I may try them.  And i will hand seat them.

This. Could even pick up a 6lb striker spring for a few bucks extra

 
How do you know whether or not you replaced the original recoil spring with a new one of the same standard, or greater weight?  Anyway, the best place in America to purchase new gun springs for any firearm is Wolff Gunsprings  I've been using Wolff Gunsprings, now, for more than a quarter of a century; and I've never had the slightest problem.  Wolff springs have excellent tensile strength, superior resilience, and they last longer than any other springs I've ever tried.  

I once asked Wolff's General Manager, 'Why' Wolff didn't make flat wound springs?  His answer has stayed with me; he said, 'We tried!'  'We're the largest gun spring manufacturer on the planet; and we've tested those things.'  'Flat wound springs just don't last long enough for us to put our name on them.'  Typically a Glock recoil spring should last for a good 5,000 + rounds.  (Spare me!  Yes, I know there are Glocks out there with 10,000 + fired rounds on their recoil springs; but THAT is not the point.)  

I'm, also, curious.  Does your 2nd generation Glock have updated trigger components in it?  If it were my 2nd gen Glock, I'd contact the factory, give them the serial number; and ask Smyrna to check the history of the gun.  Then, no matter what I was told to the contrary, I'd change ALL of the removable slide components, and the, 'Safe Trigger' group parts.  (Don't forget the slide channel liner.)  On this Glock it might, also, be time to replace the magazine springs, as well.  

It is an IGF myth that the inside of your striker channel has to be left absolutely completely bone-dry.  (WalterGA started that nonsense over on GT; and it has since really caught on - Especially after the LA Sheriff's Department armorer's began filling their striker channels with gobs and gobs of oil!  (The other extreme!)  Personally, I clean my striker channel out every 2,500 rounds, or so.  I clean them with whatever CLP I have on the bench; reasonably dry them with a couple of Q-Tips; and that's it!  'Bone-dry' a striker channel does NOT need to be.  

A striker channel can't ever be completely dry, anyway!  That's one of the reasons, 'Why' there's a channel, 'weep hole' on the bottom right-hand side of every Glock slide.  A thin coating of, 'surface tension' oil residue is actually a good thing for a Glock; and THIS is the reason I always wipe off all of my internal slide components with a clean oiled rag before lightly wiping them, 'dry' and reinstalling them, again.    

Anyway, I doubt that a dirty gun has anything to do with your present problem.  Something else seems to be going on!  

 
I don't know which reloading manual you're using; ('Steve's Reloading Pages', maybe) but, according to the Speer #14 Manual that's sitting on my desk, your 4.6 gr. charge of W231 powder is way too light.  

(Neither did I know there were any other commercial primers in the world except CCI?   )  

However cup hardness isn't part of your problem; but, (Ready?) weak primer ignition might be.  Here's the part of your reply that worries me the most, 'The light primer strikes were slightly off center, but fired on the second strike.'  Really!  Well, then, your slide is obviously NOT returning fully to battery; and the question becomes, 'Why?'  

Some of the possible solutions are discussed above; and I think they should be pursued; but, because of the wide discrepancy between the powder charge you're presently using, and what the Speer Manual recommends as a, 'starting charge' I suspect that - in addition to upgrading your Gen2 Glock you should also upgrade your powder charge of W231 to something more than what you've presently got.  (Nothing against Steve's Reloading Pages.  Steve's is a wonderful on-line source for reloading data; BUT, Steve's data is generalized, very broad, and requires both prior experience and familiarity in order to be interpreted correctly.)  

5 + something grains of W231 sounds reasonable to me; but I am NOT going to recommend it for your use.  You really should be using a decent published manual; and CCI Speer is thee reloading manual that both myself and every other reloader I know trusts, emphatically, and relies upon.  In my opinion the Speer Manual is the original compendium of reloading data and information; and it is still the best!  If you reload you should own it.  (The technical sections make for great reading, too!)  

I think your problem is quite solvable.  Do let us know how all of this turns out; won't you.