So i've read a lot of different things and i honestly cant decide what to do. I want a lighter trigger pull on my glock 19 without replacing the trigger. This is a range gun only i will not carry it. I want the reliability to stay the same but change out some of the parts. I ordered a 3.5lb minus connector but i dont know what else and what brands are good and which ones suck. So any suggestions are appreciated. Dont bash me too hard for this post !

I like my 3.5lb ghost trigger in my G19

Is that all you have done to it ?

Start with the 3-1/2# Connector and do a .25 cent trigger job on it.  Look it up on YouTube.

I did this and it dropped from 6# down to about 4-1/2#.

Most of my friends and fellow employees at the gun shop I work at agree my 19 has one of the best triggers they have felt - all I did was:

1.) Factory G17 trigger bar (smooth trigger face vs the ridged one on the 19/26 trigger bar)
2.) Factory minus disconnector (you'll see it advertised as 3.5, but it's a 4.5)
3.) Tool steel firing pin from Lone Wolf (much smoother face than the mim part where it contacts the trigger bar)
4.) Tool steel firing pin safety plunger from Apex (same as above)
5.) Fired 2000+ rds

The gun will polish itself. Don't clean off that orange grease that comes on the gun from the factory, it's a lightly abrasive compound that helps wear in rough spots on the gun. You'll notice there is some on the interface between the disconnector and trigger bar. Leave it for at least 500rds or until it wears off.

I have never noticed a difference in changing springs - that works on wheel guns and 1911s way better than it does Glocks. I wouldn't spend money there. The trigger feel/weight comes from the friction and interaction between metal parts - going front back, between the trigger bar and firing pin safety plunger; between trigger bar and disconnector, and between trigger bar and firing pin. Reduce the friction at these points and the trigger will feel lighter. The "-" disconnector will make the biggest difference as it greatly reduces the pressure necessary for the trigger bar to 'jump' over the lip and drop the firing pin.

If you order those tool steel upgrades, don't forget to order the Apex tool steel extractor as well. Great upgrade as well.

I have tried just about every trigger setup there is out there and I have a recipe that works very well for me,  YMMV.  In general Glocks factory trigger suck, some are gritty, heavy, and not consistent.  What I run now is very consistent, will not effect reliability, and in will provide a trigger pull in the range of 4.9 to 5.1 at least on all my Glocks.    I use a factory 5.5 standard Glock connector, a reduced striker block/firing pin block, spring, a heavy trigger return spring, and the factory striker spring.  IMO never use anything but a factory striker spring, unless your building a range toy.  

I start with a smooth third gen trigger bar, for the 3rd gen guns obviously, and also for all my fourth gens.  The third gen bars do not have the tab on the striker engagement bar, the part that sticks up on the trigger bar.  This tab creates resistance on the trigger by rubbing against the inside of the slide and thus causes the trigger pull to increase.  This is why Glock came out with the "dot" connectors for the 4th gen guns, to help bring the trigger weight back down a bit.   While some folks like the "dot" or "-" connectors, I find they have quite a bit of roll before they break, and I don't particularly like this anomaly.  The Glock OEM 3.5 or "-" connector seems to have the least amount of roll, but it's the going to the perception of each shooter.  

Polish the trigger bar area where it mates to the connector and the striker block.  I do not polish the striker or the trigger bar where it meets the striker.  FWIW mim or not, the factory strikers have always worked fine for me.  Replace the factory striker block spring with a reduced power, Wolff, Glockworx, or equivalent. This will not effect reliability.  I have measured the reduced springs tension compared to other manufactures, S&W, Springfield XD, etc. and the reduced spring is comparable to what they are using in for their striker blocks.  The glock factory one is heavier than almost all the others. The trigger bar disengages the striker block as it travels rearward.  With the lighter spring, the striker block exerts less resistance on the trigger bar.  

Then replace the trigger return spring with a heavier one, again Glockworx, Wolff, or equivalent.  The trigger return spring works against the striker springs tension, so putting in a heavier one helps the trigger move rearward just a little easier against the striker springs tension.  Again the heavier trigger return spring will not effect the reliability of the pistol.  Glocks triggers work in reverse of say the M&P and most other manufactures.  The others require a lighter trigger return spring to lighten their pull, glocks need a heavier spring.  H&K even markets their own heavier, and lighter trigger return springs to tune the P30 triggers.  Apex puts a heavier trigger return spring in some of their kits to help tune the M&P triggers.  So using a heavier trigger return spring is not a foreign concept.  

Leave the striker spring alone.  The striker spring is the most important spring in the glock for reliable ignition of the primers, and I wouldn't use a lighter one unless you are building a range gun.  

When this is done, you will have a smooth clean take up, much like an M&P, PPQ, XD, VP9 etc.  The take up is lighter than factory very much like the aforementioned pistols.  After the take up you have a distinct solid wall, with a clean break, that is just a touch lighter than stock, and should be around 5 pounds.  Now it isn't a hair trigger, but will feel lighter than a factory glock.  This is due to to the trigger being much smoother than factory from the polishing, and the new springs.

Here is what is to be considered.  The Glock in it's factory form was designed from the ground up to be a military grade weapon.  That was it's intent from the start and what is was built for.  Stamped parts, that were easily swapped from one pistol to another.  The original 1911 was designed around the same concept, except for the stamped parts of course, and a factory Gov 1911's trigger for the most part sucked by comparison to Kimbers, Springfiled, or just about any other main stream 1911 out there today.  

The same goes for other poly guns on the market, PPQ's, M&P, XD, VP9s, you name it.  They were all built as a commercial, or consumer grade pistols, IE they were built for the public rather than the military. So with this in mind, those manufacturers refined the triggers on them much more than the Glock, well except for the first M&Ps...Lol.  The pistols in general were designed to appeal to public or civilian shooters who liked a cleaner, nicer trigger pull compared to a military grade weapon.

All I have done is refined my Glocks triggers to more of a commercial grade trigger, comparable to other manufactures triggers.  The reliability is still there, but with a much cleaner feel to it.   I don't like hair, or even very light trigger for that matter.  This will not provide you with that type of trigger if that is what you are after.  For that I would go with one of the aftermarket set ups, from Glocktriggers, Glockworx, Vanek or something similar.  What I described gives what I consider to be a good all around trigger setup.  I'm not telling everyone they need to go out and do this either, I am just letting you know what works for me, and is a deal for about 14 bucks (spring kit) and some polishing.  

Now the disclaimer, if you do any of the above mentioned, you accept responsibility for any and all consequences, as silly as that sounds.  

TXPO

Ghost 3.5 connect

Wolf competition springs (3 springs, plunger, striker and connector spring)

dropped mine to 3lbs give or take

My personal favorite setup is a - connector paired with a heavier trigger spring.

The - connector drops the pull weight and the heavier trigger spring drops the weight again but also make a more positive reset.  For carry I just replace the trigger reset spring with a heavier one and use a standard connector.

3.5 lb. Glock factory connector.

Pair that with the heavier trigger reset spring so the trigger is not mushy.  
Also beware the Glock "3.5" connector actually will only get the trigger to 4.5 weight to get to the 3.5 you have to replace the trigger reset spring with a heavier one.

You say heavier trigger spring to get rid of that mushy feeling,what size do you put in it and where do you get it please? I just put a new connector in mine and it has that mushy feeling.

The striker spring will have the biggest effect on pull weight, but also have the most impact on reliability.  You could drop to a 4.5lb striker spring and set off most primers (don't use a 4.0lb spring with the OEM striker).  Don't use the heavier trigger spring on a Gen4.

Same ones I put in both of mine.

yup!

Midway USA, Glockmeister, GlockStore, Brownells sells the Zev springs they are easy to be had.  It is called the competition trigger spring.  Not sure of the size but just look up competition connector.
I run them in all my Glocks because I like a very positive reset and it puts more tension forward on the trigger after you break your shot.  Also the extra ~1# drop in trigger pull.

Thanks Im going to order it now.