Just picked my VZ2008 from AIM Surplus. Super happy with it. Definitely glad I found this deal over a low-tier AK clone or a midlength AR.

I like the way the gun looks and feels (I say this having not shot it, yet), but I do want to add a flashlight since this now fills my carbine role.

I haven't taken off the lower handguard yet, so I haven't gotten a good look at what I'm working with. As far as shape and material strength, is there any reason I cannot, or SHOULD not, add a rail to the bottom?

My plan is to remove it, mark it carefully, drill two holes, and bolt on a small piece of Picatinny rail using T-nuts

Adds to the functionality of my rifle without drastically changing the aesthetic. Also, I have no intention of shelling out crazy money for the non-ugly railed forends on the market.

So, feasible?

Thanks.

Yes, it's feasible. I've seen it done. But I don't know how well it works. Especially long term.

Another option (not including railed handguards) is to get a setup that clamps to the barrel or to the bayonet lug. They work well.

This mounts to the bayonet lug:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/130241/mako-flashlight-mount-3-4-ring-diameter-for-vz-58-bayonet-lug

These clamp to the barrel:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VZ58-VZ2008-Barrel-Mount-Rail-Flashlight-Attachment-Tactical-High-Quality-VZ-5-/321298829744
http://www.opticsplanet.com/troy-vz-58-barrel-clamp.html

They may or may not be in/out of stock. But I'm sure they could be found if you wanted to go one of the above routes.

Just other ideas and options.

Options are always good, thanks.

Bakelite itself isn't particularly brittle or anything, is it? Probably wouldn't be good to drill and tap.

I just have to take it apart, get a good look at it, and see how a T-nut is going to sit.

Now to find my pin punches...

No I don't think the beaver barf is especially brittle. Since I haven't done it myself. The only way to know is to try it yourself.

The t-nut idea is a good one I think.

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I will mention. I don't know how much you've shot the rifle. But the handguard heats up pretty hot and fast. Just a consideration on how you want to proceed.

I'm gonna try something similar by mounting a Midwest Ind. carbine length accessory rail to the top of my handguard. I picked up a used spare upper handguard to hack on and filed the bottom of the rail to match the curve of the handguard. Gonna try to mount a TRS-25 I have lying around.

Just took her out for a quick shoot, this evening. No foolin', she gets WARM! Almost screamed like a girl when I accidentally brushed the barrel after emptying that first mag. WHEW!

On the plus side, two full mags and not a single hiccup. I know 60 rounds isn't enough to properly gauge the gun's behavior, but from the stories it seems the gremlin would've likely shown up within that range. Either way, I'm SUPER happy with my purchase.

I'm thinking a furniture upgrade wouldn't be bad in the future. Nothing fancy. My AR is for the tactical crap, this is bare-bones functionality and old-school class. Just the rail and light ought to get her to a good point, for the time being. Hopefully get that done, this weekend.

I've been thinking of doing something similar and would be very interested in how yours turns out.  I was originally thinking about maybe milling a flat on the top of the handguard, then mounting a rail to that.  After separating the handguard from the heat shield, it looks like the handguard is probably too thin for that to work.

I got my MI rail mounted this weekend, I didn't have enough room between the handguard and the heat shield to countersink the nuts (The MI rail has nuts about the size of a dime so countersinking would have left too little support material) so I drilled thru the heat shield as well. I can't tell how much clearance I have between the piston rod and the mounting hardware but it all went back together without interference. I still have about 1/8" of bolt sticking past the nuts that I will dremel down so that additional clearance should be OK. The heat shield looks pretty thick, especially around the center support band. I did not use a nut for the center bolt, I just tapped the heat shield. Probably could have just tapped all the holes on the the shield but wasn't sure how it would hold under recoil. It's not 100% straight but there's enough left-right adjustment in my TRS-25 that I can center over my front sight.