Okay for all those VZ2008 owners that need a tabbed carrier to get your rifle running 100% and cure the gremlim, here are the specs and info to make your tab or have one made for you.  This is how I make mine .

1. Get a piece  1/2" wide by 1/8" thick steel flat stock  ( any hardware store has it)
2. Cut a piece about 2"-3" long
3. Using a surface grinder or a belt sander with a square block, grind the thickness to .100" making sure it is square and even. This is the hardest and most important step it must be a flat  and square .100"  +/- .005. And yes it can be done on a belt sander with 180 grit belt. Using a long piece to hold makes it easier you only need to reduce about a one inch length of stock.
4. Using a chop/cutoff saw set to a 45* angle cut the end off. Try to cut it so it leave the cut off tab at around .900"-1.000" long, if you cut it to short you will need to make another(.785" finish length)
5. Deburr cut off end with file
6. Measure length with dial calipers , clamp in vice and squarely file and/or grind face of tab to get  .785"  +.010" / - 0"  length
7. Grind or cut rough length then file squarely the bottom edge to get the .360" tab height
8. Using a file or sander radius the front top corner and smooth top and front edges.
9. On the bottom inside edge file a 45* bevel half the thickness of the tab. This is for clearance because the inside edge of the carrier is rounded and the clearance is needed to make the tab sit flush against the carrier.
10. Test fit tab, should be flush with side of carrier (thickness) and flush across top with the raised hump on back of carrier. I used a dab of super glue to fix in place and check for clearance. Make sure tab does not hit the magazine and the bolt moves freely  back and forth. When I did mine after this check I tack welded the tab in one spot and checked for function by hand before I welded it up just to be sure. Pull the bolt all the way back, pull and hold trigger, let bolt go, release trigger, should here a click, pull trigger , should drop the striker. If you did it all right with the correct measurements there should be no problem.
11. Weld on tab. I did mine in my garage with a Hobart flux core  wire welder, but a MIG or TIG would be much better. Clamp tab on and weld a small bead on the inside *IMPORTANT* if the weld is to wide or thick it will hit /rub the ejector and the weld will need ground down for clearance. Then a small thin light bead around the outside edge. This will need filed/ground flush with the carrier for clearance.
12. Hit with some black paint
13. DONE

* this information is use at your own risk and I take no responsibility for any out come with the use of the information, your mileage my vary, not my fault if you screw it up, etc. etc.*

This is great information, plan on making mine the first day I have off.

If you need any help or have questions feel free to PM me. A set of dial calipers are handy but a basic machinist scale/rule can be used and cost only a few dollar at most hardware stores. .785" =25/32" to 51/64",  .360"= 23/64"  .100" = 3/32" to 7/64" all are approximate but will work. You can actually make the tab using 1/8" (.125") stock and weld it in place then carefully grind/file the side flush with the bolt with a grinder, belt sander, file, etc. for clearance to get the .100" width. If I had some more time I'd make up a bunch and just give them to people to have welded on but right now I'm a little covered. I have made a few for people by request in the past. This kind of thing come easy to me but I've been a machinist and hobby metal faber/welder for 15+ years.

well if you ever get back into it please let me know! Would happily pay to get this done.. i was tempted to send it to that guy over on czech forums.. but in my humble opinion $50+shipping to send it to him is a tad high.. i could see 25-35.. but not 50.

That and my rifle is not my primary go-to-rifle so i am not in a huge hurry. Just want it done and done right.

In a few weeks I should be freed up and should be able to help you out. I didn't want to bash that guy either, but I thought $50 was high also and I wasn't real impressed with the tabs or the welds I saw in the pictures for a $50 job.

Those are probably my pics you saw if you saw them on CZFirearms forum. I agree the job was rough. I would have liked a little better. But it's fixed my problem so far. So it was worth it. But you should be able to find someone more local to do the same job. I'm just really frustrated with my VZ and wanted to get it fixed.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, I need mine done too, so if you decide you can put these on for others let me know, I would certainly be interested too.

Sweet, and thanks. Just shoot me a PM/email when you are caught up.

Cheers.