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Posted: 12/27/2014 2:00:28 AM EDT
Almost spent close to $70 for one then just decided to fabricate my own using a $6 MAGPUL 5 slot rail section and a $6 drill/tap kit from Home Cheapo. Took about 30 minutes and came out great.
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Posted: 12/28/2014 12:32:17 AM EDT
[#1]
That looks dang good.
Were you able to obtain any kind of co-witness or was the quick acquisition of iron sights sacrificed? |
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Posted: 12/28/2014 1:03:15 AM EDT
[#2]
Irons are blocked but I don't miss them because they suck. Only way to keep any kind of co-witness on the M92 is to get a front handguard with a recessed top cover like the Manticore Renegade or Ultimak. For close quarters/HD work, even if a dot goes down you can still easily hit stuff just by centering it in the window. All I need is a mini scout light and this thing is done.
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Posted: 12/29/2014 1:25:08 PM EDT
[#3]
Dang it! Mine is on the way from RFT. I'm presuming you used a standard rail section, what are the specs on the drill/tap kit used, screws, etc? Keep posted on how it holds up and holds zero.
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Posted: 12/29/2014 4:00:24 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dang it! Mine is on the way from RFT. I'm presuming you used a standard rail section, what are the specs on the drill/tap kit used, screws, etc? Keep posted on how it holds up and holds zero. Holds zero fine. Averaging 3.5-4 MOA @ 100M shooting Wolf WPA 123gr HP's using the red dot. Same groupings I was getting with irons and is pretty much standard for short AK's. The rail is a standard MAGPUL 5 slot rail. I used the screws which came with the MAGPUL rail section. You want to use a 10/24 Thread Tap and a 5/32" drillbit. I purchased a kit made by IRWIN Tools for $5.38 that came with the tap and drillbit. |
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Posted: 12/29/2014 4:16:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Irons are blocked but I don't miss them because they suck. Only way to keep any kind of co-witness on the M92 is to get a front handguard with a recessed top cover like the Manticore Renegade or Ultimak. For close quarters/HD work, even if a dot goes down you can still easily hit stuff just by centering it in the window. All I need is a mini scout light and this thing is done. That's a pretty cool solution you have. You might be able to get a co-witness by milling off some material from the bottom of the rail section. You can likely find a local machine shop to do the milling for you for about twenty five bucks or so. Also, switching to an Aimpoint type micro-dot or one of the clones will get the sight window a little lower as the emitter is off to the side. Lastly, it's a bit more money, but a TWS cover with a micro dot would be an out of the box solution and get you a substantially longer sight radius to boot. Hope that helps. |
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Posted: 2/10/2015 3:13:57 PM EDT
[#6]
Question: Why did you tap the holes the rail section is supplied with threaded mounts. was it just for added thread contact or some other reason ?
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Posted: 2/10/2015 3:53:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Question: Why did you tap the holes the rail section is supplied with threaded mounts. was it just for added thread contact or some other reason ? Once the top cover is closed, the clearance between the cover and the top of the bolt does not leave a lot of space. I didn't want to chance them interfering with the bolt. Threading the holes in the cover only took about 5 minutes. If you are planning to try this using the supplied threaded mounts let us know if they fit. I'm interested to know. 
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Posted: 2/11/2015 10:18:23 AM EDT
[#8]
Yes I'll try it.
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Posted: 2/12/2015 8:53:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's a pretty cool solution you have. You might be able to get a co-witness by milling off some material from the bottom of the rail section. You can likely find a local machine shop to do the milling for you for about twenty five bucks or so. Also, switching to an Aimpoint type micro-dot or one of the clones will get the sight window a little lower as the emitter is off to the side. Lastly, it's a bit more money, but a TWS cover with a micro dot would be an out of the box solution and get you a substantially longer sight radius to boot. Hope that helps. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Irons are blocked but I don't miss them because they suck. Only way to keep any kind of co-witness on the M92 is to get a front handguard with a recessed top cover like the Manticore Renegade or Ultimak. For close quarters/HD work, even if a dot goes down you can still easily hit stuff just by centering it in the window. All I need is a mini scout light and this thing is done. That's a pretty cool solution you have. You might be able to get a co-witness by milling off some material from the bottom of the rail section. You can likely find a local machine shop to do the milling for you for about twenty five bucks or so. Also, switching to an Aimpoint type micro-dot or one of the clones will get the sight window a little lower as the emitter is off to the side. Lastly, it's a bit more money, but a TWS cover with a micro dot would be an out of the box solution and get you a substantially longer sight radius to boot. Hope that helps. TWS wont allow a cowitness. You can see the top of the sights and use the sights but it is too low for an RDS co-witness. |
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Posted: 2/12/2015 4:28:34 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
TWS wont allow a cowitness. You can see the top of the sights and use the sights but it is too low for an RDS co-witness. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Irons are blocked but I don't miss them because they suck. Only way to keep any kind of co-witness on the M92 is to get a front handguard with a recessed top cover like the Manticore Renegade or Ultimak. For close quarters/HD work, even if a dot goes down you can still easily hit stuff just by centering it in the window. All I need is a mini scout light and this thing is done. That's a pretty cool solution you have. You might be able to get a co-witness by milling off some material from the bottom of the rail section. You can likely find a local machine shop to do the milling for you for about twenty five bucks or so. Also, switching to an Aimpoint type micro-dot or one of the clones will get the sight window a little lower as the emitter is off to the side. Lastly, it's a bit more money, but a TWS cover with a micro dot would be an out of the box solution and get you a substantially longer sight radius to boot. Hope that helps. TWS wont allow a cowitness. You can see the top of the sights and use the sights but it is too low for an RDS co-witness. Sounds like best bet if you are worried about your RDS breaking is just to mount it with a QD and remove it if it goes down. |
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Posted: 2/18/2015 8:38:33 PM EDT
[#11]
I mounted a section of rail on top of my cover too (drilled and tapped fine thread holes). Works great! Put a Burris FF on mine and really like this set up.
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Posted: 2/20/2015 10:17:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I mounted a section of rail on top of my cover too (drilled and tapped fine thread holes). Works great! Put a Burris FF on mine and really like this set up. 
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Posted: 2/21/2015 2:08:17 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Irons are blocked but I don't miss them because they suck. Only way to keep any kind of co-witness on the M92 is to get a front handguard with a recessed top cover like the Manticore Renegade or Ultimak. For close quarters/HD work, even if a dot goes down you can still easily hit stuff just by centering it in the window. All I need is a mini scout light and this thing is done. And you need to ditch that thread protector. Get some kind of muzzle device. |
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Posted: 2/21/2015 9:35:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Good looking setup. Why doesn't you just mount the sight to your hand guards?
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Posted: 2/21/2015 3:21:56 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good looking setup. Why doesn't you just mount the sight to your hand guards? I originally wanted to, however I was one of the lucky ones to get a PAP with a slightly canted front sight/gas block. Therefore the cant is present in the rail as well. You really can't tell unless you are looking down the rifle but it's enough to where I don't want the sight on it. The FF3 is plenty accurate how it is mounted now. This is how it is grouping shooting at 25m from an off hand standing position. The green sticker is 3/4" and the orange sticker is 2". Definitely good enough for the distances I intend to use the rifle out to. 
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Posted: 2/21/2015 3:26:55 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And you need to ditch that thread protector. Get some kind of muzzle device. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Irons are blocked but I don't miss them because they suck. Only way to keep any kind of co-witness on the M92 is to get a front handguard with a recessed top cover like the Manticore Renegade or Ultimak. For close quarters/HD work, even if a dot goes down you can still easily hit stuff just by centering it in the window. All I need is a mini scout light and this thing is done. And you need to ditch that thread protector. Get some kind of muzzle device. Yea, forgot about that  . I don't know if I want to go with a flash hider or a comp.
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Posted: 3/1/2015 7:36:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Update you can use the plates that come with the mount you have to smooth them up so they are smooth on both sides. then you will also need to grind the bolts flush and smooth with the mounting plates. For even more thread contact I will drill and tap the cover and use the plates for extra strength. But I will say by just using the plates it is solid as a rock.
Where can i get a new top cover and pin I want to re do mine since I used mine for some R&D ... |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 11:57:01 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Update you can use the plates that come with the mount you have to smooth them up so they are smooth on both sides. then you will also need to grind the bolts flush and smooth with the mounting plates. For even more thread contact I will drill and tap the cover and use the plates for extra strength. But I will say by just using the plates it is solid as a rock. Where can i get a new top cover and pin I want to re do mine since I used mine for some R&D ... Good stuff, thanks for sharing man! I don't have a clue where to get another top cover. |
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Posted: 3/20/2015 1:10:46 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holds zero fine. Averaging 3.5-4 MOA @ 100M shooting Wolf WPA 123gr HP's using the red dot. Same groupings I was getting with irons and is pretty much standard for short AK's. The rail is a standard MAGPUL 5 slot rail. I used the screws which came with the MAGPUL rail section. You want to use a 10/24 Thread Tap and a 5/32" drillbit. I purchased a kit made by IRWIN Tools for $5.38 that came with the tap and drillbit. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Dang it! Mine is on the way from RFT. I'm presuming you used a standard rail section, what are the specs on the drill/tap kit used, screws, etc? Keep posted on how it holds up and holds zero. Holds zero fine. Averaging 3.5-4 MOA @ 100M shooting Wolf WPA 123gr HP's using the red dot. Same groupings I was getting with irons and is pretty much standard for short AK's. The rail is a standard MAGPUL 5 slot rail. I used the screws which came with the MAGPUL rail section. You want to use a 10/24 Thread Tap and a 5/32" drillbit. I purchased a kit made by IRWIN Tools for $5.38 that came with the tap and drillbit. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 1:39:58 PM EDT
[#20]
I did mine with a hand drill, the part you drill in to is actually flat and not rounded. I used a spring loaded punch/awl to dimple the steel where the holes needed to go to prevent the drill bit from walking.
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