Since posting my SBR pics on a couple of forums, I have received a few requests for more details/photos of the SBR.  I thought that posting this narrative and photos in a couple of spots would catch most of the inquiries.  So, without further delay...

My Draco consists of the following:

Romanian Draco, Tapco G2 Trigger, Trigger Retainer Plate, VZ-58 Folding Stock, OSOE Two-Point Bungee Sling, Modified Full Length Ultimak, Aimpoint Micro with ARMS QD Mount, XS Big Dot Sights, Phantom-Style Flashhider, Arsenal Lower Front Handguard, [Currently not installed - Surefire G2L with VLTOR QD Offset Mount]





As far as shortening the Ultimak, I trimmed it from the front gas block end and did nothing to the rear. I measured the length that I actually needed and then marked around the entire circumference of the Ultimak's front  tube. From there, I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to remove the majority of the length required to be removed. I then finished up using a belt sander to trim the tube to its final length. This also provided me with a square/clean end as well. I then used a step drill/unibit to drill out the end (in a tabletop drill press) to provide a counterbore to the front, interior of the tube that would allow it to slip over the back/connecting end of the Draco's front gas block. In a perfect world, I would have used a nice band saw to rough cut the tube, knee mill/Bridgeport to finish the tube's length and counterbored in the mill as well.  After the finish machine work, I used a small block with fine grit paper to lightly break the sharp, machined edges of the tube.  The to refinish the raw aluminum, I simply used some Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black.









To mount the VZ-58 stock, two bits of machining are required: notch/slot for the anti-rotation lug (denoted by the red arrows in the pics below) and tapped through hole for the stock's mounting screw (denoted by the green arrow in the pic below).  

The first order of business is to obtain any special tooling need to perform the necessary machining for mounting the stock.  The special tooling required is for the mounting screw that has M12x1.0 threads.  One can purchase both the 11mm tap drill and M12x1.0 tap from Amazon.com at a reasonable price.  The two tools only need to last for a single session for most users here when mounting a VZ-58 stock.  

Prior to performing any machining, one must "lay out" for their cuts and through hole.  It is recommended to obtain the measurements you need to "lay out" the notch and threaded mounting hole from the individual stock that you purchased.  While I am sure there are semi-tight tolerances for the lug and mounting screw locations, using the actual stock to be mounted and custom fitting that stock will provide a much better mount and lockup with less likelihood of a sloppy/wobbly fit.  There is nothing special about laying out the notch/mounting hole, it just takes simple knowledge of geometry and some patience.

To cut the notch for the anti-rotation lug, I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to perform the initial rough machining.  I finished the notch with a hand file using light material removal, test fitting, light material removal, test fitting until I had a nice tight fit/lockup of the lug.  Once fit, I when ahead and started to machine my threaded hole.  Tip #1, use a center punch to mark and start your hole.  The center punch mark will keep the drill bit from wandering from your desired hole center when trying to start your drill.  I did not have a large enough drill press to drill the hole, so I used a cordless hand drill.  This is not a problem if you keep your drill straight and aligned if necessary.  Just by the nature of hand drilling, holes can become oversized.  One could drop down to a 27/64" bit from the 11mm bit if hand drilling because it is only ~ .010" smaller in diameter and hand drilling will easily make this up.  The other advantage to using the 27/64" bit is that it is generally more apt to be available locally and on weekends.  Anyway, as far the drilling goes, I am not a fan of step drilling when using a hand drill.  So, I started with my full sized bit.  Go slow, even slower than you think you need to with this size bit and as hard as the rear trunnion in the Draco wound up being.  I did burn my 11mm bit and one 27/64" bit up going to fast, call it over zealousness!     Again, go slow and use lots of oil!

Tapping is easy enough, it just takes a proper tap handle, a good eye to keep it straight, oil and patience.  Remember, 1/4 turn forward cutting and back up 1/2+ turn.  Justing backing the tap a small amount once making a 1/4 turn cut does NOT fully clear chips.  When backing out, you will feel the tap back over and belch the chips necessary when you move 1/2+ turn in reverse.  

Once tapped, clean the hole up for grease and burrs.  Now it is time to mount the stock.  The only trick left is to use thread locker, preferably permanent in my opinion, on the stock's mounting screw and that is it!








Hope this helps everyone, someone, anyone.    If I can answer any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask!

Nice machine work on the tab BTW.

Love it!!!!

Im a huge fan of the VZ stock on Draco's. They have the right look. Great build!!

Looks great.

Thanks all!

Looks great, but not a fan of iron sights? Or does the Big Dot setup replace the rear sight leaf?

To me the VZ-58 stock is hands down the best fit for the Draco.

Anyhow, I would like to see some pics with the stock folded. I am interested since you had the rear trunnion notched out on the top how that will affect the folder from hitting the safety....

Nice job and great write up! Thanks.

tkopp,

Thanks.  As far as the big dots, I am just a fan of them.  Some people like them and others don't.  For the intended purpose of this and most, not all, of my rifles, the big dots work just fine (especially since they are primarily backup sights to optics anyway).




I can get some pics of the folded stock for you no problem.  As an FYI, the safety can be manipulated with the stock folded, it is just that it is not as solid of a lockup as the wire folders and can cause a little difficulty with pushing the safety down at times (a little manhandling overcomes the issue though). I have a few ideas brewing on how to fix this and will post the final solution when I have it completed as well.

With the way your folder is mounted I would have a hard time believing you can lock the safety all the way down. Not that it affects the function of your rifle, but after working on a project like yours and seeing the stock mounted further down when it is folded it still stops the safety from being pushed down and locked.

Here are some pics for everyone of the stock folded on the Draco SBR as has been requested.  I also placed the Draco folded and unfolded next to a standard WASR (Warsaw-length stock) for comparison.








Here are some pics of the safety in its various positions and how it clears/interferes.










Here is a video, in MP4 format, of the safety in operation for the "Doubting Thomases" :


Note:  Yes, I am being a smart@ss in the vid, but it is all in fun.  

Where is the best place to find the  VZ-58 Folder?

I purchased my folder from:  Czechpoint USA

I have no complaints and have been very happy with their customer service!

Thanks for the pics. I figured the stock would interfere with the safety when mounting it to the trunnion at the highest point. I can see from the pics that it doesn't really matter because the folder still locks and the safety still functions it just won't lock down when the stock is already folded.

I am not sure that I am following.  In the video, it shows that I can actuate and lock the safety down.  We might not be talking about the same thing?

I watched the video and it showed what I was talking about. I see how it engages and locks into place with an extra push, but what I was talking about was how the safety will hit the stock due to the height your index notch in the trunnion was cut.

OK, I understand now.  I have a few ideas for a bumper/stop that would be robust and strong enough to not be inadvertently knocked off that would keep the stock pushed out from the receiver enough to prevent any contact.  We will see.