Originally Posted By AllyTroyIND:
It will not fit without modification to the lower. It is a simple modification and has been done. Doing this modification will void any and all warranties. The upper gas tube puts pressure close to the factory gas tube, but the gas tube is adjustable to put just enough tension for a solid interface.

Originally Posted By Hizzie:
Emailed Troy. Got a response pretty quickly.  Too bad the question I asked was ignored.

Originally Posted By rcassettyjr:
I bought the long rail and upper rail set for my SLR-101s. It is supposed to be here tomorrow. I will try and shoot some pics of the install to document what needs to be done to fit it to a milled receiver. I suspect some filing is needed on the lip of the lower that tucks into the receiver.

Originally Posted By rcassettyjr:
I bought the long rail and upper rail set for my SLR-101s. It is supposed to be here tomorrow. I will try and shoot some pics of the install to document what needs to be done to fit it to a milled receiver. I suspect some filing is needed on the lip of the lower that tucks into the receiver.

Originally Posted By rcassettyjr:
Well I got the Troy long AK bottom rail installed on my SLR-101s and I am pleased with it. I am not a professional gunsmith but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express one night (it sucked but I got smarter - smart enough not to stay at the HIE again).

Here is what I had to do:

The block that transitions from the receiver to the rail has 2 button head screws in it. I believe these are to give some added anti rotation with a stamped receiver. They serve no mechanical attachment purpose and I just removed them.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/rcassettyjr/media/screws_removed_zps6d3a9fdd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t485/rcassettyjr/screws_removed_zps6d3a9fdd.jpg</a>

See the rounded groove in the lip in the pic above? The lip slides into the receiver and ends up with not enough clearance for the end of the cleaning rod to slip between it and the receiver. If the block had the groove cut a bit deeper it would fit fine. I would bet 5 mins with a dremel would take care of it if you want to retain the rod.

I had to heat my muzzle brake to get it off. It was installed with red locktite type stuff. I am replacing it with a LanTac DrAKon when they come out so I did not care about cooking off the finish.

I had to grind 2 places for clearance. The first place was the inside ribs to clear the muzzle when slipping the rail on. My SLR has the 14x1 threads but I suspect that as long as the newer style larger threaded end is no longer it could be made to fit (YMMV) by removing a wider portion of the ribs. It looks like a lot is gone but it really isn't that much. This took 10 mins with the dremel.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/rcassettyjr/media/muzzle_clearance_inside_zpsb834e92d.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t485/rcassettyjr/muzzle_clearance_inside_zpsb834e92d.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/rcassettyjr/media/muzzle_clearance_outside_zpsb5cf4d5f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t485/rcassettyjr/muzzle_clearance_outside_zpsb5cf4d5f.jpg</a>

I touched it up before installing and it is totally invisible. I though I was home free at this point but I was wrong. Apparently the AK they used for the design had a smaller front sight on it than mine does. The one on my SLR is larger (front to rear) so the inside of the top railed area hit the sight. This prevented the rail from being able to line up with the slot in the receiver (it sits forward until the lip goes in the slot). I squeezed the rail down on the sight to make some marks to go by. I then removed the rail and took the dremel to the area that is on the bottom of the forward end of the rail. I had to remove quite a bit of material to get it to fit. I took off a little at a time and test fitted it. When it finally popped on I was not able to get it back off without a struggle so I did not get a good pic of how much material was removed. I will touch up the finish later (lots of touch up to do as this is a used gun and I have done a bunch of mods on it already) but here is a pic to give you an idea how much has to go.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/rcassettyjr/media/sight_clearance_left_zps1a235ed9.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t485/rcassettyjr/sight_clearance_left_zps1a235ed9.jpg</a>

Both of these modifications do not remove enough material to impact the strength of the rail. Someone with better dremel skills could probably make it look like it came that way from Troy. The opening starts out round and I made it square to clear the sight. Make sure you round the corners so nothing cracks. It would be great if they would clearance these 2 areas so the rail would fit more AK variants right out of the box.  You will also need a really good set of ball end hex keys to tighten the tension screws inside the rail. There was a lot of foul language and blood tightening those 2 screws.

This is the finished product. I installed the Ace milled receiver block and 9.5" skeleton stock with 1" pad yesterday (I need a longer LOP as I have very long arms - 39" sleeve). I had to cut the lower tang off to install it and I would love to know what kind of steel they used for that tang. It took 6 cutting wheels to get through it. Other than the 30 mins of cutting it was an easy install. The stock is offset down 1/4" because I did not add the folding option. The rifle shoulders fine and I get right on the sights with good cheek weld where it is now.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/rcassettyjr/media/SLR-101s_Troy_Ace_zpsbb0c6f14.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t485/rcassettyjr/SLR-101s_Troy_Ace_zpsbb0c6f14.jpg</a>

If you are comfortable with a dremel tool and you are OK with cutting up (and invalidating the warranty on) a $130 rail then I do recommend you try this. It was not hard and I took my time. The whole figuring it out and grind/test/grind some more process took me 2 hours.

I also installed the Troy top rail as I did not want to mess with the ultimak one that requires tools to remove. I would rather be able to easily remove it with no tools for cleaning.

Now I just have to sell the stock SLR-101s furniture once my Magpul MOE grip arrives (could not find a US Palm with the plug).

Good luck

Bob

What top cover are you using?

Originally Posted By rcassettyjr:
Just wanted to add a followup to my install notes. I took my SLR-101s with the troy long rail and troy railed gas tube out to the range today to do some testing. After one 30 round mag (six 5 round groups shooting slowly) the handguard was loose enough that I thoght it was going to fall off. I removed the gas tube and found that the handguard retainer had loosened which allowed the tension screws to back out. I took a drift and a hammer and made sure the retainer was all the way forward then I tightened the tension screws as tight as possible. I shot a 30 round mag quickly and it was not loose so I dumped three 30 round mags in under a minute to see how hot it was going to get. By the end on the 3rd mag the tension screws were loose again. The handguard retainer did not move, the tension screws just worked loose. I went to home depot and bought 2 HDX prescision driver kits which have a 1/8" bit and a flexible shaft. I stopped at the parts store and got some green loctite (green is penetrating for threadlocking already assembled parts). I used the flex driver to tighten the tension screws until the flex shaft broke (I expected that which is why I bought 2 - $4.98 ea). I then took a syringe with a long needle and injected the green loctite into the threads where they meet both the front and back of the threaded block. I will let it cure and test it out next week then report back. If it loosens again I will remove it and find a different handguard that does not mount like the troy does.

I wanted to see how hot the handguard would get under rapid fire and it was pretty warm but not painful. I was wearing thin gloves but they did not make much difference. I did find that being able to hold the long handguard at the end really helped with accuracy. I shot 30 rounds of tula fmj in a 2.5" circle standing 25 yards away using open sights with no real effort. I did find that my hand tended to creep toward the bayonet lug which was extremely hot (left burn marks through my gloves). I need to add the squid grip things to help with that.

Overall I am pleased with the long rail provided the loctite keeps the tension screws tight.

Originally Posted By jeremy_p:
The aluminum handguard is heating up faster and expandingg more than the steel it's connected.

Originally Posted By shootertim:
Can you mount rail sections for lights, grips, etc. On this handguard?

Originally Posted By shootertim:
Does it come with rail sections, or do you have to buy them seperatly?