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TDMAKER
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Posted: 5/19/2011 10:32:14 AM
[Last Edit: 12/19/2011 3:21:17 PM by Midwest_Ind]

THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT
MI is happy to introduce the new MI / Us palm Ml2 top cover equipped hand guard .This unit allows the shooter to now use most full size 30mm red dot sights on top of the proven MI hand guard set up . This unit also provides a lower on third co-witness sight picture with most full size red dots. Here is a link to our web sight for all of the details.
THANK YOU FOR LOOKING
TROY
MI
http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=419
Midwest Industries Inc.
Quality Manufacturers of Tactical Rifle Accessories

www.midwestindustriesinc.com
Hizzie
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Posted: 5/19/2011 11:56:11 AM
Originally Posted By TDMAKER:
MI is happy to introduce the new MI / Us palm Ml2 top cover equipped hand guard .This unit allows the shooter to now use most full size 30mm red dot sights on top of the proven MI hand guard set up . This unit also provides a lower on third co-witness sight picture with most full size red dots. Here is a link to our web sight for all of the details.
THANK YOU FOR LOOKING
TROY
MI

http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=419


And which specific models would that be?
TDMAKER
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Posted: 5/19/2011 2:41:14 PM
The models that co witness we have tried and verified are .
aimpoint ml2
vortex strike fire
burris xts-135
trijicon tri-power

there may be others but we have not confirmed them.
thank you
TROY
MI

Midwest Industries Inc.
Quality Manufacturers of Tactical Rifle Accessories

www.midwestindustriesinc.com
Snootchie_Bootchies
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Posted: 5/20/2011 6:03:41 PM
Your top covers look pretty cool and they seem to be well accepted.

You guys should think about putting together a mounting system that enables folks to mount just the top cover and use regular lower hand guards.

I don't like too many rails on my guns, so if I could mount just the top cover, I could use a regular poly or wood lower hand guard.

I'd definitely purchase the top covers for the AKs I own.
TDMAKER
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Posted: 5/20/2011 8:03:01 PM
Thanks for the input . We have several new products coming out in the next two monthes that should provide additional solutions for the AK platform

TROY
MI
Midwest Industries Inc.
Quality Manufacturers of Tactical Rifle Accessories

www.midwestindustriesinc.com
Snootchie_Bootchies
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Posted: 5/23/2011 1:28:21 PM
Originally Posted By Snootchie_Bootchies:
Your top covers look pretty cool and they seem to be well accepted.

You guys should think about putting together a mounting system that enables folks to mount just the top cover and use regular lower hand guards.

I don't like too many rails on my guns, so if I could mount just the top cover, I could use a regular poly or wood lower hand guard.

I'd definitely purchase the top covers for the AKs I own.


Originally Posted By TDMAKER:
Thanks for the input . We have several new products coming out in the next two monthes that should provide additional solutions for the AK platform

TROY
MI


Sounds good. I just started shooting my AKs regularly, so I can't wait to see what you bring out.
Bart01
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Posted: 11/17/2011 3:21:46 PM
I attempted to make contact through your website (phone & mail) and have gotten no response. My question is does this or other hand guards (rail) offered by MI fit my NHM-91?
Midwest_Ind
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Posted: 11/17/2011 3:42:06 PM
[Last Edit: 11/17/2011 3:42:56 PM by Midwest_Ind]
I have received no emails or phone calls . We are very busy with Christmas next month. As far as you question what is the diameter of your barrel? is your ndm a heavy barrel larger than .750??? if it is larger than that it will not work.
Thanks
TROY
MI
Midwest Industries Inc.
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www.midwestindustriesinc.com
Bart01
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Posted: 11/17/2011 6:32:29 PM
Thanks for your response, I had called and got no answer so I used your contact form about 3 weeks ago, give or take, without any response. Anyway the gun is a Norinco NHM-91 and my barrel is .668 diameter. It is a long heavy barrell like an RPK style. I like your railed hand guards and especially like that they are american made. I just want to make sure Im not buying something that doesnt fit. Thanks again.
The_Beer_Slayer
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Posted: 11/17/2011 8:31:07 PM
i got one with the primary arms rds. LOVE IT!
The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in
defense. The sword is more important than the shield, and skill is more
important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is
supplemental.
Midwest_Ind
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Posted: 11/17/2011 8:50:09 PM
you are welcome at .668 they will work perfect.
thanks
TROY
MI
Midwest Industries Inc.
Quality Manufacturers of Tactical Rifle Accessories

www.midwestindustriesinc.com
MeatAxe556
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Posted: 2/17/2012 12:52:20 AM
[Last Edit: 2/17/2012 2:53:12 AM by MeatAxe556]
Last weekend I had a problem with my MI universal handguard with an Aimpoint T1 micro red dot sight and upper handguard: it suddenly shook loose after about 100 to 120 rounds of rapid fire. The handguard and Aimpoint had been installed a couple of months prior and probably had 500 to 600 rounds through it prior to coming loose. I disassembled the handguard and found some greasy loctite residue on the inside of the handguard and some around the screws (this was the loctite supplied with the handguard kit).

Although the screws were held fast by the loctite, they had obviously backed out since they had been installed, which caused the whole handguard to shake loose (i.e. the 4 screws holding the barrel clamp. Also, the screws holding the Aimpoint on the top cover were a couple of turns loose from when they had been installed. The instructions made no mention of using locktite on these mounting screws, so I am wondering if I should use any (hopefully better) loctite to secure the Aimpoint to the top cover. I am assuming the loctite supplied with the kit was no good, as I followed the installation instructions to the T. It appears to me that the locktite simply melted under rapid fire and allowed the screws to back out, then after the rifle cooled, the loctite held fast again, but the handguard itself had shaken loose (throwing the Aimpoint sight way off).

Getting ready to reimstall the handguard & Aimpoint on the rifle: the original barrel mount screws are too crudded up with loctite to reuse, so got some new (longer) stainless steel ones at Home Depot. However, I am wondering if I should use lock washers for this, and/or stronger or different grade loctite. However, I don't want such strong loctite that I can never get the handguard off again.

Also, it would be helpful to have torque specs (i.e. for the four barrel clamp screws).

Any help would be appreciated.
The_Beer_Slayer
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Posted: 2/17/2012 4:29:40 PM
sounds like you got some bad locktight. i have had it happen before. mine has been solid as rock even after rapid firing a few drums back to back. i'd just put some new lt on them tighten them down and rock on.
The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in
defense. The sword is more important than the shield, and skill is more
important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is
supplemental.
Liquidmetal
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Posted: 2/17/2012 5:00:56 PM

Originally Posted By MeatAxe556:

It appears to me that the locktite simply melted under rapid fire and allowed the screws to back out

Use Rocksett on the handguard screws and never worry about it again.
A 9mm might expand to .45, but a .45 will never shrink to 9mm.
Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.
Midwest_Ind
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Posted: 2/17/2012 9:35:52 PM
Be careful of what you wish for. If you get to aggressive you will not ever get the screws back out. I am surprised hearing this . We never have issues like this typically when the top covers are installed the steel really bites onto the hard coat. You may have had oil contaminate the loctite letting it loosen I would use some degreaser like tri zero then try it again. Thanks. Troy. Mi.
Midwest Industries Inc.
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The_Beer_Slayer
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Posted: 2/17/2012 9:47:54 PM
Originally Posted By Midwest_Ind:
Be careful of what you wish for. If you get to aggressive you will not ever get the screws back out. I am surprised hearing this . We never have issues like this typically when the top covers are installed the steel really bites onto the hard coat. You may have had oil contaminate the loctite letting it loosen I would use some degreaser like tri zero then try it again. Thanks. Troy. Mi.


when i replaced my handguard with the optics mount handguard i cussed for an hour trying to get the screws to break loose. "really bites" is an understatement
The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in
defense. The sword is more important than the shield, and skill is more
important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is
supplemental.
MeatAxe556
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Posted: 2/17/2012 10:44:33 PM
[Last Edit: 2/17/2012 10:49:47 PM by MeatAxe556]
Originally Posted By Midwest_Ind:
Be careful of what you wish for. If you get to aggressive you will not ever get the screws back out. I am surprised hearing this . We never have issues like this typically when the top covers are installed the steel really bites onto the hard coat. You may have had oil contaminate the loctite letting it loosen I would use some degreaser like tri zero then try it again. Thanks. Troy. Mi.


What should the barrel mount screws be torqued to?

Also, should Locktite be used on the screws securing the sight to the upper handguard?

The_Beer_Slayer
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Posted: 2/18/2012 8:40:04 AM
no idea on torque spec i snugged them tight with blue locktight on every thing. mine hasn't been a problem. honestly i don't know anyone that would use a torque driver/wrench installing a handguard.
The purpose of fighting is to win. There is no possible victory in
defense. The sword is more important than the shield, and skill is more
important than either. The final weapon is the brain. All else is
supplemental.
Midwest_Ind
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Posted: 2/18/2012 3:24:04 PM
Don't Lottie the optic screws they are very small. On the 8-32 you could go 40 inch lbs. just make sure they are tight. I still think you had oil on the screws prior to Loctite. Troy. Mi.
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MeatAxe556
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Posted: 2/18/2012 4:51:53 PM
Originally Posted By Liquidmetal:

Originally Posted By MeatAxe556:

It appears to me that the locktite simply melted under rapid fire and allowed the screws to back out

Use Rocksett on the handguard screws and never worry about it again.



This Rocksett has some really impressive temperature specs (-350 to +2,150 F) but I'd be afraid I'd never get it off again without a lot of hassle or ruining the threads on the barrel mount. Is that medium or high strength?

I think what I'm going to do is use some industrial grade Loctite 2422 blue, which is medium strength, but good to up to 650*F. Regular Loctite 242 blue (which I assume is similar to what MI supplies with their kits) is only good to 300*F, which seems kind of low to use on a rifle barrel. Only problem is you normally have to order 2422 from an industrial supply house –– you can't just walk into Auto Zone for it, like the run of the mill 242.
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Posted: 2/18/2012 4:55:27 PM
Get ready to drill out your screws. I do not recommend this .proceed at your own risk. Troy. Mi.
Midwest Industries Inc.
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MeatAxe556
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Posted: 2/18/2012 5:04:19 PM
Originally Posted By Midwest_Ind:
Don't Lottie the optic screws they are very small. On the 8-32 you could go 40 inch lbs. just make sure they are tight. I still think you had oil on the screws prior to Loctite. Troy. Mi.


Thanks!

I guess oil contamination is possible, although I didn't notice any and surely would have done something about it if I had noticed any oil –– it was a brand new kit that I just took out of the plastic package and installed per the instructions, with the supplied tube of blue thread locker. I suspect the threadlocker was bad, as loctite has a shelf life of 2 years, but for whatever reason it failed under rapid semi auto fire, I assume because it couldn't handle the heat.

I'm going to try it again with new stainless steel screws and Loctite blue high temp 2422 PLUS lockwashers for good measure, torqued to 40 in. lbs.

Midwest_Ind
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Posted: 2/18/2012 5:40:29 PM
Keep me posted. Thank you. Troy. Mi.
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Liquidmetal
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Posted: 2/18/2012 6:22:40 PM
[Last Edit: 2/18/2012 8:33:12 PM by Liquidmetal]

Originally Posted By MeatAxe556:
Originally Posted By Liquidmetal:

Originally Posted By MeatAxe556:

It appears to me that the locktite simply melted under rapid fire and allowed the screws to back out

Use Rocksett on the handguard screws and never worry about it again.



This Rocksett has some really impressive temperature specs (-350 to +2,150 F) but I'd be afraid I'd never get it off again without a lot of hassle or ruining the threads on the barrel mount. Is that medium or high strength?

It's only slightly stronger than the blue Loctite and nowhere near the strength of the red. Ignorance of the product is what often causes people to be afraid of it.
A 9mm might expand to .45, but a .45 will never shrink to 9mm.
Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.
MeatAxe556
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Posted: 2/18/2012 11:38:13 PM
[Last Edit: 2/19/2012 1:53:40 AM by MeatAxe556]
Originally Posted By Midwest_Ind:
Get ready to drill out your screws. I do not recommend this .proceed at your own risk. Troy. Mi.



I assume the blue liquid threadlocker supplied with the MI kit is Loctite 242 or something similar, is that right?

According to the Loctite website, the 242 has a breakloose torque of 70 to 150 lb.in. when fully cured and is good to 300*F, which seems kind of low to me, only about half again as hot as boiling water. Loctite 2422 (which I understand is a paste) has a breakloose torque rating of 102 lb.in. but is good up to 650*F. So both 242 and 2422 have comparable breakloose strength (both are designed to be removed with hand tools). However, the 2422 has a much higher temp rating. Seems I read somewhere that cookoff temperature for cartridges @ 600*F so hopefully the 2422 should have more than enough heat resistance to stand up to semi auto rapid fire.

Of course, all my guns are first and foremost SHTF shooters, so the last thing I want is to have a sight mount work loose in the middle of dealing with a pack of looters, etc. So, for me the primary concern is making sure the handguard/sight holds when shooting rapid fire, when it counts, removing it later is secondary. If the 2422 gets stubborn, apparently it can be heated to remove with hand tools.
MeatAxe556
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Posted: 2/19/2012 12:56:07 AM
[Last Edit: 2/19/2012 2:08:25 AM by MeatAxe556]
Originally Posted By Liquidmetal:

Originally Posted By MeatAxe556:
Originally Posted By Liquidmetal:

Originally Posted By MeatAxe556:

It appears to me that the locktite simply melted under rapid fire and allowed the screws to back out

Use Rocksett on the handguard screws and never worry about it again.



This Rocksett has some really impressive temperature specs (-350 to +2,150 F) but I'd be afraid I'd never get it off again without a lot of hassle or ruining the threads on the barrel mount. Is that medium or high strength?



It's only slightly stronger than the blue Loctite and nowhere near the strength of the red. Ignorance of the product is what often causes people to be afraid of it.




Interesting stuff, this Rocksett. Unfortunately, there's not a whole lot of info on it (i.e.: the breakloose torque, etc.). Apparently, Flexbar is the manufacturer, but they don't give all the info useful for the MI barrel mount application, which I assume is going to need a happy balance of vibration and temperature resistence:

"Cured Properties of Rocksett
Tensile Strength 1.5 N/mm2 or MPa (230 psi)
Shear strength 3.0 N/mm2 or MPa (460 psi)
Temperature Range -180 + 1100°c
Gap filling >.15mm
Electrical insulation up to 20 radio MHz"


Unfortunately, tensile and shear strength don't really compute with breakloose torque, so it's difficult to compare with Loctite or Permatex threadlockers in that respect.

Searching the web, I see bits of anectdotal info. According to some, it has a breakloose torque something less than Loctite blue, others say it's impossible to get off unless you soak or boil the parts in water (supposedly is water soluble). Apparently, people use it to threadlock muzzle devices...

It would be good to know what temperature to expect for an AK barrel fired sustained rapid (or full auto) fire, but there's not much info on that. The only thing I could find was a wikipedia temperature of 400*C (@ 750*F) for a 1914 Hotchkiss machine gun fired for a thousand rounds at 120 rounds per minute ("The barrel could attain a temperature of about 400 °C, at which temperature it would be dark red in color. At this point the barrel dissipated heat as fast as it was generated. This only occurred after long continuous firing in a combat emergency situation.") Well, I doubt I could get my semi auto AK THAT hot before I went bankrupt!
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