 |
Posted: 5/16/2011 8:47:44 AM
Originally Posted By bruh44:
Does this grip look like it was finished this way to you guys? http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/bruh44/DSC_0361.jpg I ordered it on ebay, and it was shipped strait from Ukrane. I'd like to make this look like the grip: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/bruh44/DSC_0362.jpg Yes, it appears to so. So, if you use pine tar and then shellac mixed with dye, you can get the rest of the furniture to match the pistol grip. Nice color on the PG! You may want to use something to get the oil out of the wood before applying the pine tar. Here's a link with info on the process. Although I just sand the wood well before using the PT and I've been happy with the results. Removing Oil from Wood Furniture BTW: I do not know for certain that the Russians/Soviets used pine tar in the finishing process. However, pine tar gives you that authentic Soviet lamiante look for sure. |
|
|
|
bruh44
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2002  MO, USA
 Posts: 3849 Feedback: 100% (107) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/17/2011 2:29:49 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll post pictures when I finish it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/17/2011 4:18:32 PM
Originally Posted By bruh44:
Thanks for the info. I'll post pictures when I finish it. Cool. I look forward to seeing them. Feel free to PM me if you need any help. |
|
|
|
Finslayer83
There is no stain on Soviet wood.
Team Member
Joined: Jul 2008 TN, USA
Posts: 2522 Feedback: 100% (24) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/17/2011 10:42:11 PM
this is not a tag for awesome wood refinishing.
|
|
|
ZEROTHOMAS
Fear is the mind-killer
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2005 USA
Posts: 3976 Feedback: 100% (32) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/18/2011 2:25:29 AM
You really should partner up with Ironwood or something, you do fantastic work
 |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/18/2011 11:23:31 AM
Originally Posted By ZEROTHOMAS:
You really should partner up with Ironwood or something, you do fantastic work Thanks. I appreciate that. In fact, I spoke with Matt at IWD and will be ordering some sets to refinish. I need to locate a good source for the hardware though. |
|
|
|
bruh44
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2002 MO, USA
Posts: 3851 Feedback: 100% (107) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/18/2011 7:00:49 PM
So far the most difficult part of the process is finding pine tar. I tried every hardware store, lumber store, and tractor supply place around. I was hoping to get working on this Friday. I just ordered it off of ebay. I'm guessing it'll be a week or so before I start.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/19/2011 8:47:10 AM
Originally Posted By bruh44:
So far the most difficult part of the process is finding pine tar. I tried every hardware store, lumber store, and tractor supply place around. I was hoping to get working on this Friday. I just ordered it off of ebay. I'm guessing it'll be a week or so before I start. I know what you mean. When I went to Lowes and Home Depot they had never heard of pine tar. I just ordered it as well. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/19/2011 1:32:06 PM
[Last Edit: 5/19/2011 1:34:12 PM by m_seitz_24]
Anybody ever try the pine tar they sell for baseball? There are a lot of different kinds, sticks, sprays, pre soaked rags but the stuff im talking about is a syrupy consistency and is dark brown and comes in a small bottle for like 5 bucks. I just have a buttstock to do and was considering just picking up a bottle instead of a huge container online.
something like this link |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/19/2011 3:29:22 PM
Originally Posted By m_seitz_24:
Anybody ever try the pine tar they sell for baseball? There are a lot of different kinds, sticks, sprays, pre soaked rags but the stuff im talking about is a syrupy consistency and is dark brown and comes in a small bottle for like 5 bucks. I just have a buttstock to do and was considering just picking up a bottle instead of a huge container online. something like this link I'm not sure about that type of pine tar, but I was told to stay away from the kind they use on horse hooves. For the price of the Rawlings pine tar, it may be worth it to try it. If it doesn't work well, then you should be able to wipe off the pine tar with turpentine and start over. I'd like to hear and see your results. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/19/2011 3:47:57 PM
My stock should be comming today or tomorrow. I'll try it out and post what I come up with.
|
|
|
|
bruh44
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2002 MO, USA
Posts: 3852 Feedback: 100% (107) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/19/2011 4:37:41 PM
[Last Edit: 5/19/2011 4:38:44 PM by bruh44]
Originally Posted By Sinatra:
Originally Posted By m_seitz_24:
Anybody ever try the pine tar they sell for baseball? There are a lot of different kinds, sticks, sprays, pre soaked rags but the stuff im talking about is a syrupy consistency and is dark brown and comes in a small bottle for like 5 bucks. I just have a buttstock to do and was considering just picking up a bottle instead of a huge container online. something like this link I'm not sure about that type of pine tar, but I was told to stay away from the kind they use on horse hooves. For the price of the Rawlings pine tar, it may be worth it to try it. If it doesn't work well, then you should be able to wipe off the pine tar with turpentine and start over. I'd like to hear and see your results. Wish I had heard this before. Thats exactly what I ordered. I guess I'll find out how it works. Do you know why? |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/19/2011 7:15:34 PM
[Last Edit: 5/19/2011 7:16:38 PM by Sinatra]
Originally Posted By bruh44:
Originally Posted By Sinatra:
Originally Posted By m_seitz_24:
Anybody ever try the pine tar they sell for baseball? There are a lot of different kinds, sticks, sprays, pre soaked rags but the stuff im talking about is a syrupy consistency and is dark brown and comes in a small bottle for like 5 bucks. I just have a buttstock to do and was considering just picking up a bottle instead of a huge container online. something like this link I'm not sure about that type of pine tar, but I was told to stay away from the kind they use on horse hooves. For the price of the Rawlings pine tar, it may be worth it to try it. If it doesn't work well, then you should be able to wipe off the pine tar with turpentine and start over. I'd like to hear and see your results. Wish I had heard this before. Thats exactly what I ordered. I guess I'll find out how it works. Do you know why? You know what? Scratch that. One of the guys on the surplus rifle forum said that he used Brickmore brand pine tar with good results. It's a bit on the thin side, and it produces a warm golden light brown stain. If you want thicker and a dark brown use the original Swedish pine tar. So, you should be GTG! 
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=173&familyName=Pine+Tar |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2011 11:20:50 AM
I tried out the baseball pine tar over the weekend, worked good. I couldnt find the liquid in the bottle so I bought the pine tar rag, its just a rag soaked in pine tar sealed in a plastic bag. I put it in a small container with a little bit of turpentine, just enough to soften up the tar some. Wiped the wood down with it and put it in a plastic bag and let it sit in the sun. I did that twice and then wiped it down with turpentine, then an old cotton shirt and let it dry a while in the sun. I put 3 coats of amber shellac on it and thats where im at now. The stock im doing matches the russian pistol grip and handguards i bought almost perfect, it just has a little more shine to it.
after tar 
after shellac 
It needs to be sanded smooth before i put any more coats on. this is the first time ive worked with shellac. Its hard to get a smooth finish, it seems to tack up really fast and if you go back over it more than once it roughs the finish up a little. Once i sand it smooth i might have to try just using an old shirt instead of a brush or maybe thinning it a little would help but it already seems pretty thin. |
|
|
|
bruh44
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2002 MO, USA
Posts: 3854 Feedback: 100% (107) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/24/2011 4:31:19 PM
I got my pine tar in today. I'm thinking of using a red stain on the wood first. Just wondering what you think of that.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2011 1:59:49 PM
[Last Edit: 5/25/2011 2:01:11 PM by Sinatra]
Originally Posted By m_seitz_24:
I tried out the baseball pine tar over the weekend, worked good. I couldnt find the liquid in the bottle so I bought the pine tar rag, its just a rag soaked in pine tar sealed in a plastic bag. I put it in a small container with a little bit of turpentine, just enough to soften up the tar some. Wiped the wood down with it and put it in a plastic bag and let it sit in the sun. I did that twice and then wiped it down with turpentine, then an old cotton shirt and let it dry a while in the sun. I put 3 coats of amber shellac on it and thats where im at now. The stock im doing matches the russian pistol grip and handguards i bought almost perfect, it just has a little more shine to it. after tar http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/hotsaus/aftertar.jpg after shellac http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/hotsaus/aftershellac.jpg It needs to be sanded smooth before i put any more coats on. this is the first time ive worked with shellac. Its hard to get a smooth finish, it seems to tack up really fast and if you go back over it more than once it roughs the finish up a little. Once i sand it smooth i might have to try just using an old shirt instead of a brush or maybe thinning it a little would help but it already seems pretty thin. Nice job! When you apply the shellac, make sure to use multiple thin coats. This gives a more uniform look. I use foam brushes (1 brush per application of shellac). They work well for a single use. http://www.amazon.com/Jen-Mfg-Foam-Brush-Multi-Pack/dp/B001JPBIR4 If you want to smooth out the shellac after it dries, wait 24-48 hours and then buff it with "0000" steel wool. You can then either leave it "as is" or apply more shellac. Denatured alcohol removes shellac as well. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2011 2:04:56 PM
Originally Posted By bruh44:
I got my pine tar in today. I'm thinking of using a red stain on the wood first. Just wondering what you think of that. I have not tried applying stain and then pine tar. I was told that it should work well. I applied pine tar and then mixed dye with shellac to add color. I'd really like to see how your wood turns out by doing it that way. Please post pics. |
|
|
|
bruh44
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2002 MO, USA
Posts: 3857 Feedback: 100% (107) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/25/2011 5:22:58 PM
[Last Edit: 5/25/2011 5:23:11 PM by bruh44]
So I looked for a good red stain and couldn't find anything close to what I needed. What type of dye do you use?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2011 5:57:41 PM
Originally Posted By bruh44:
So I looked for a good red stain and couldn't find anything close to what I needed. What type of dye do you use? I use Transtint Mahogany dye. Mahogany |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2011 9:56:55 AM
[Last Edit: 5/26/2011 9:57:51 AM by m_seitz_24]
Nice job! When you apply the shellac, make sure to use multiple thin coats. This gives a more uniform look. I use foam brushes (1 brush per application of shellac). They work well for a single use. http://www.amazon.com/Jen-Mfg-Foam-Brush-Multi-Pack/dp/B001JPBIR4 If you want to smooth out the shellac after it dries, wait 24-48 hours and then buff it with "0000" steel wool. You can then either leave it "as is" or apply more shellac. Denatured alcohol removes shellac as well. I sanded the first coats of shellac down smooth with some 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper and a little water to keep the shellac from gumming up the paper. I thinned out the shellac with a little alcohol and put more thin coats on with a foam brush after going over it real quick with 0000 steel wool. Its looking a lot better but still doesnt have the perfectly smooth glossy finish im looking for. I wonder if after i sand and steel wool it and it has that haze if I could polish it with some kind of wax to get the shine back without having to put another coat of shellac on. Any thoughts? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2011 2:35:33 PM
[Last Edit: 5/26/2011 2:35:48 PM by Sinatra]
Originally Posted By m_seitz_24:
Nice job! When you apply the shellac, make sure to use multiple thin coats. This gives a more uniform look. I use foam brushes (1 brush per application of shellac). They work well for a single use. http://www.amazon.com/Jen-Mfg-Foam-Brush-Multi-Pack/dp/B001JPBIR4 If you want to smooth out the shellac after it dries, wait 24-48 hours and then buff it with "0000" steel wool. You can then either leave it "as is" or apply more shellac. Denatured alcohol removes shellac as well. I sanded the first coats of shellac down smooth with some 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper and a little water to keep the shellac from gumming up the paper. I thinned out the shellac with a little alcohol and put more thin coats on with a foam brush after going over it real quick with 0000 steel wool. Its looking a lot better but still doesnt have the perfectly smooth glossy finish im looking for. I wonder if after i sand and steel wool it and it has that haze if I could polish it with some kind of wax to get the shine back without having to put another coat of shellac on. Any thoughts? I think that you're right. http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/author/zinsser/shellac2.html Wax-Over-Shellac Finish Many floor finishers believe that this is the most beautiful floor finish in the world. Apply the shellac at container consistency and let dry for 2 hours. Sand the floor with 120 to 200 grit paper and remove all dust. Apply 2 to 3 coats of paste wax and buff between coats to a deep gloss. Note that you can wax any shellacked floor for a deeper shine and added wear resistance. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2011 5:28:35 PM
[Last Edit: 5/26/2011 5:34:06 PM by Hueto]
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
What grit paper are you sanding to? I don't mean to sound like an asshole but you still have the "orange peel" look going. I love the color but I don' like the texture. To me the bumpiness of the finish detracts from the color and grain of the wood. Have you tried Tung oil? and if so how does it compare in your experience? I like Tung oil because you can buff out the irregularities and make the finish as smooth as glass and it also lets the grain of the wood show though without the opaqueness that you can get with say satin Poly. You can also leave it as glossy as you want or dull it down to whatever you want. The problem I've found with Tung oil is that it tends to leach some color out of the wood as you finish it. I also think the finer you sand the wood the more the grain pops out as you finish it. I sand to 600 grit. Like I said, please don't think I'm trying to be an asshole. I love the color you get(I've seen a lot of your work) I'm just not liking the "orange peel" texture, I think it takes away from the grain and color. Forby's isn't tung oil. It's a wiping varnish cut with mineral spirits. You're not going to get the right look unless you use shellac. Sinatra- Looks good. Shellac can be tricky because it dries so quickly, causing noticable brush strokes if it's not cut right. I found that cutting the shellac down with a bit more denatured alcohol allows for thinner coats that take a bit longer to "tack" up. I've also yet to come across a Soviet stock set that didn't look like the shellac was slopped on with a rag mop. Keep up the good work. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2011 10:12:36 PM
[Last Edit: 5/26/2011 10:12:48 PM by Sinatra]
Forby's isn't tung oil. It's a wiping varnish cut with mineral spirits. You're not going to get the right look unless you use shellac.
Sinatra- Looks good. Shellac can be tricky because it dries so quickly, causing noticable brush strokes if it's not cut right. I found that cutting the shellac down with a bit more denatured alcohol allows for thinner coats that take a bit longer to "tack" up. I've also yet to come across a Soviet stock set that didn't look like the shellac was slopped on with a rag mop. Keep up the good work. Thank you. I started out using regular Zinsser shellac and then switched to dewaxed shellac for a thinner, more uniform application. I usually use a coat or two of the shellac with wax as a top coat. There's definitely a technique to applying the shellac in order to avoid laying it on too thickly or to avoid runs. I want to buy shellac flakes and make my own shellac. I appreciate your comments and tips. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/2/2011 9:10:34 AM
Originally Posted By bruh44:
So I looked for a good red stain and couldn't find anything close to what I needed. What type of dye do you use? How's it coming along? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/2/2011 2:52:03 PM
[Last Edit: 6/2/2011 2:57:48 PM by m_seitz_24]
Mine is about done, should have some pictures by the end of this weekend. I want to give it some good time to cure. I think i forced it a little last week and got some fingerprints in the finish when putting the stock back on the rifle. This was after wet sanding, buffing with steel wool and polishing with wax, go figure it wasnt cured enough to put some pressure on it. I also decided to throw a fresh coat on the grip and handguards so the finish is the same. They had the same color but the buttstock was smoother and shinier.
|
|
|
