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Posted: 6/17/2016 5:01:26 AM EDT
Ok guy's I have a Saiga that I need to finish converting and I am looking for advice on which muzzle break/comp/flash hider to go with after I get the barrel threaded? I know what ever I go with will have to be pinned due to us having to cut into the barrel to thread it. I have been looking at the fighter Ak47 muzzle break that AK Operator has on their site and I have been running one on my WASR 10 and it is pretty good and I do like but have been looking at going a different route on the Saiga since it will have to be pinned.

I have also been looking at the Manticore Arms Night Break, Griffin Armament AK Flash Comp. If any of you are running one of these could you post some pic's and also give me some feedback as to the pro's and con's of which ever one you are running with?
Link Posted: 6/18/2016 5:04:24 AM EDT
[#1]
Please someone correct me if i am wrong but i am pretty sure you do not have to get anything pinned unless its under 16". I threaded my .308 saiga to accept ar10 style devices, it is for sure not pinned with no issues. If you dont care about staying traditional i would research doing the same to yours so there are more options. Good luck!!!

Eta: I just read your post again. I get what your saying since they may have to cut it a little shorter to thread, but still dont think thats the case. I would ask the gunsmith about it getting pinned. Mine was cut down to 18.5".
Link Posted: 6/18/2016 9:41:12 AM EDT
[#2]
why do you have to cut the barrel down?
Link Posted: 6/18/2016 7:44:02 PM EDT
[#3]
It's not that the barrel is being cut down in length. From my understanding it is when I change the barrel profile when it gets cut for the threads for the muzzle break/flash hider/compensator that I will have to pin what ever device I decide to put on the barrel after it is threaded.
Link Posted: 6/18/2016 9:38:17 PM EDT
[#4]
I see. Well it depends on which method you use. If you just thread it and keep the original front site, you can get away with using a washer to hold it in place. You can remove the front site and replace it with a 103 front site and get a .30cal muzzle break from kvar. Or you could use an older AKM type with the plunger in it the front site and then use any 14x1 (that that's the thread pitch you choose) muzzle device.
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 5:11:13 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I see. Well it depends on which method you use. If you just thread it and keep the original front site, you can get away with using a washer to hold it in place. You can remove the front site and replace it with a 103 front site and get a .30cal muzzle break from kvar. Or you could use an older AKM type with the plunger in it the front site and then use any 14x1 (that that's the thread pitch you choose) muzzle device.
View Quote



Yeah I was just going to keep the original front sight on it as I don't have a problem with it and it seems like it is to much of a hassle to swap those out. I was under the impression that if I changed the barrel profile to thread it so I could put a muzzle break/comp flash hider on it that I would also have to pin it. So if my understanding is correct in that if I just leave the front sight on it now and thread the barrel then I am good to go and will not need to pin anything?
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 9:28:08 AM EDT
[#6]
I have never left the original front site on any of my conversions, but I'm pretty sure you can use just a crush washer and it will be good to go. Similar to how an AR15 works.


Link Posted: 6/19/2016 1:57:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Ok thanks. I was looking at swapping out the FSB but can't find one I need. I also am not sure how to get the old neighborhood off as I don't see any pins.  I see the dimples on each side of the FSB so I don't know what I need or how to swap them out.
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 7:34:39 PM EDT
[#8]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Ok thanks. I was looking at swapping out the FSB but can't find one I need. I also am not sure how to get the old neighborhood off as I don't see any pins.  I see the dimples on each side of the FSB so I don't know what I need or how to swap them out.
View Quote
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_4_64/152759_SAIGA_full_conversion_tutorial.html



 
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 9:40:07 PM EDT
[#9]
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ok thanks. I was looking at swapping out the FSB but can't find one I need. I also am not sure how to get the old neighborhood off as I don't see any pins.  I see the dimples on each side of the FSB so I don't know what I need or how to swap them out.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_4_64/152759_SAIGA_full_conversion_tutorial.html
 



Thanks for the link. I will pull the gun out tomorrow and check some things on so I will have an idea of which way to go with it.
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 11:42:26 PM EDT
[#10]
I just did this on my conversion:

Drill holes where the dimples are, just enough to remove the material on the front site. The barrel is also dimpled so you wont hurt it as long as you dont drill too deep. You can then press the old site off. Be sure to protect the barrel crown.

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-167B.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-140B.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-025B.html

This setup works with type 3 bayonet. The site has plunger and works with the muzzle brake I linked above. You will not need to pin and weld it.

You will need a laser sighting device to align the new front site. With new font site pressed on and bore sighted using laser, drill proper size holes through new front site base and barrel. Then press in new pins linked above


Link Posted: 6/20/2016 8:03:26 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks I guess I am going to try and find someone to send it to or a shop around my area to get this done at. I don't have to tools and stuff to try doing it on my own. If I did get this done what other devices can I use and mount that would not require me to pin them to the barrel?
Link Posted: 7/22/2016 9:24:41 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I just did this on my conversion:

Drill holes where the dimples are, just enough to remove the material on the front site. The barrel is also dimpled so you wont hurt it as long as you dont drill too deep. You can then press the old site off. Be sure to protect the barrel crown.

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-167B.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-140B.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-025B.html

This setup works with type 3 bayonet. The site has plunger and works with the muzzle brake I linked above. You will not need to pin and weld it.

You will need a laser sighting device to align the new front site. With new font site pressed on and bore sighted using laser, drill proper size holes through new front site base and barrel. Then press in new pins linked above


<a href="http://s809.photobucket.com/user/tompat/media/c3b8d102-28a7-49bb-bb1b-b8a618926a47_zpsitsljund.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz19/tompat/c3b8d102-28a7-49bb-bb1b-b8a618926a47_zpsitsljund.jpg</a>
View Quote



I'm contemplating doing this but moving the FSB back and using the combo gasblock/FSB.  Think that'd put me under 16" though and would necessitate pinned muzzle device
Link Posted: 9/2/2016 7:29:29 AM EDT
[#13]
Moving the fsb doesn't change the barrel length.
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