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OR, USA
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Posted: 6/2/2008 12:14:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Orygunxj]
[#1]
Interesting i also have a wasr gp with the same thing well guess its time to break out the tap set and drill 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2008 11:36:27 AM EDT
[#2]
I want to add a muzzle brake, but I don't want to remove the nut and find there's no threads. Has anyone done this on a century arms 10/63 ????????
   
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WA, USA
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Posted: 9/27/2008 11:05:17 PM EDT
[#3]
I did on mine, and there was threads. I can almost guarantee you that you have threads underneath that. I used a hacksaw blade and got through the weld in under an hour with plenty of breaks taken within that hour, haha. It's not tough. If you use a Dremel, which is probably smarter, you can get through it in a matter of minutes probably.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 10/21/2008 8:17:03 AM EDT
[#4]
I just did the same thing. Used a hacksaw and elbow grease and sure enough there were threads underneath. Probably going to go get a muzzle break for it today.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 10/21/2008 8:17:47 AM EDT
[#5]
*muzzle brake I mean
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WA, USA
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Posted: 12/21/2008 9:58:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Getting back on topic for those of us who DONT already have threaded barrels...
I have an SAR-2 and 1 i'm thinking of threading my problems i'm terrible with math and only have a micrometer.. It appears to me that the SAR-1 is .550 micrometer measurements, while the SAR-2 is far less, probably closer to .500 Micrometer measurements.. Is there a place i can find out what size breaks might fit these? Also this guide confuses me.. he talks about ak74 style breaks but then mentions that he doesnt know of any ak74 style breaks for 5.45 that fit the thread turn... Umm isn't ak74 supposed to be 5.45 caliber??.. AM majorly confused can someone explain please? AK-74 brakes come with several internal bores. Common are 14mmx1LH, 22mmx1LH (unique to Romanian muzzle brakes), and 24mmx1LH.
I don't know if there are any AK74-style brakes in 5.45 caliber which thread on 14mmx1LH barrels. This would be important to someone with a SAR-2 trying to keep the correct AK74 "look" by threading the barrel. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 1/3/2009 9:57:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rlex]
[#7]
I removed the muzzle nut and had LH 14mmx1 thread (with a Dremel using the low speed and several cutting wheels) - I installed a US-made slant brake that I purchased from Copes Distributing.
This is a GP WASR 10/63 - Serial 1983-AE 29XX that I purchased in November 2008. I touched up a couple of scratches with Brownells Formula 44/40 Instant Gun Blue and it looks good to go. http://militarysignatures.com/signatures/member1735.png |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2009 3:43:01 PM EDT
[#8]
I have one of the few GP WASR -10 rifles with 1/2"x20RH threads instead of the reverse LH. I pretty much ruined the slant brake trying to get it off(was tightening it even more) so had to do something. Luckily I found some post on other forums with the same problem and found an adapter 1/2x20 to 5/8x24 from dinzag arms so I can use muzzle brake/flash suppressor from an ar-10 or saiga .308 . Now I just have to decide which one to get.........
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Posted: 3/7/2009 11:08:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Orygunxj:
Originally Posted By jdgiii:
Originally Posted By kletus:
Clockwork your threads are probably the same as mine. They're 1/2"x20 tpi. I have one that is threaded 1/2 x 20 as well. I took an A2 flash hider, ran a 1/2 x 20 tap through it, as well as drilling the inside of it out to 25/64". I had it secured with a crush washer at first and then I notched it for the detent pin. It went right on and I haven't had any problems with it. Interesting i also have a wasr gp with the same thing well guess its time to break out the tap set and drill SO thrSAR-1 to 14x1L...then using a crush washer and an AR vortex FS would work/? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2009 12:37:15 AM EDT
[#10]
So i just picked up a Wasr 10 as well. There is a nut on the front of the barrel, with a tac weld holding it on. I know some of you guys said you have taken the nut off and found no threads on there. How would I know for sure that there are threads on there before taking the nut off>? Chance it? there also seems to be some Teflon material coming from the barrel as well. If I look at the barrel at a distance and angel it looks like there are thread or (starting threads). Also I noticed that the barrel is chrome line or something? what Is the point of that? Any info would be great.
Here are a few pics, 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2009 12:30:15 PM EDT
[#11]
Well I thought I would give it a shot and try removing that thread protector. I ran up to Home Depot and bought the toughest hacksaw blades I could find. I started sawing the weld but I cannot get it started for the life of me. It appears to be hardened steel and my hacksaw blades dont even touch it. I guess the only thing left to do is find someone with a dremel. Feel free to chime in if you have any tips you can give me. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 6/18/2009 12:58:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Took a dremal to mine, Done in less then 3 minutes. Didn't even have to cut all the way. Just enough to get some of the weld off, Then vice grips allowed me to twist it off & break the weld. Touched up with black metal stain. New brake screwed on.
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VA, USA
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Posted: 9/12/2009 12:27:24 AM EDT
[#13]
I have a Slant brake on my Wasr10 but no welds.. do I just press down the detent and unscrew the slant brake?
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IN, USA
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Posted: 9/12/2009 8:31:20 AM EDT
[#14]
Originally Posted By cttbax:
I have a Slant brake on my Wasr10 but no welds.. do I just press down the detent and unscrew the slant brake? Yes. Remember that the threads are LEFT hand so you turn it clockwise (when viewed from the muzzle) to remove it. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 9/12/2009 8:30:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By cttbax:
I have a Slant brake on my Wasr10 but no welds.. do I just press down the detent and unscrew the slant brake? Yes. Remember that the threads are LEFT hand so you turn it clockwise (when viewed from the muzzle) to remove it. thanks, it came right off. Ordered a new flash hider today! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/30/2009 12:03:05 AM EDT
[#16]
Originally Posted By DTIguy:
Well I thought I would give it a shot and try removing that thread protector. I ran up to Home Depot and bought the toughest hacksaw blades I could find. I started sawing the weld but I cannot get it started for the life of me. It appears to be hardened steel and my hacksaw blades dont even touch it. I guess the only thing left to do is find someone with a dremel. Feel free to chime in if you have any tips you can give me. One thing all should remember here. Weld material is tougher than any parent material that it is welded to. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/11/2009 7:02:12 PM EDT
[#17]
I used a Dremel on my Maadi (ceramic disc blade) and it was done in a a minute or so. Just an FYI, the ceramic discs are prone to breaking
if you bend them to much. |
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Posted: 2/9/2010 10:26:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By robairto:
I used a Dremel on my Maadi (ceramic disc blade) and it was done in a a minute or so. Just an FYI, the ceramic discs are prone to breaking if you bend them to much. After having my rifle about ten years, I just did the same thing. Now, I have to get a break to put in place. I am thinking slant brake to stay authentic and preserve bayonet usage. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/6/2010 5:44:49 AM EDT
[#19]
For those putting on a new brake, I'd like to report that Tapco's Slot Brake (5 ~60 deg slots on top, 3 1/4" holes on each side) works great, reducing climb and not kicking the butt stock up and right like the slant brakes do. The weapon is alot easier to handle than previous.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=56&t=116492&page=6 The last two posts with pictures show the brake. The post before mine has a great view of the brake (the pic with the Ultimak gas tube rail). |
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USA
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Posted: 5/9/2010 3:05:48 AM EDT
[#20]
Well, I took a chance that my el-cheapo Romak 991 had a threaded barrel. After hitting the spot weld with the Dremel and removing the muzzle nut, I found the barrel was curiously "partially" threaded and had been turned down to a smaller diameter (about .504"), much like mykrowyre found his was (see page 1 of this thread). The 'threads' (if that's what you want to call them) are a LH twist, but the 14x1 LH slant cut brake I bought won't take hold. Additionally, the barrel extends about .853" from the front sight block and even if the brake could be screwed on, the barrel would extend well into the brake. My guess is the muzzle nut was threaded and was twisted onto the barrel when the rifle was assembled.
I'm no gunsmith, so I'm at a loss what to do. I don't have the confidence to try the solution mykrowyre did. I could probably get the muzzle nut back on, but it looks like hell after cutting it off. I emailed the importer (Ohio Ordnance Works) to see if I can obtain a new muzzle nut, but have no real hope they can get one to me. My questions is this: what the heck am I supposed to do now? |
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Posted: 8/4/2010 6:32:52 PM EDT
[#21]
Just Dremeled off the muzzle nut from the WASR-2 I got from Aim about a month ago. It took about 15 min. then screwed right off. Low & behold it had 14mmx1 thread under the nut. Screwed a U.S. stamped slant brake on it that I had laying around. Bingo, it looks a whole lot better now. Now if I can just get out & shoot it.
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OR, USA
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Posted: 10/17/2010 9:54:45 PM EDT
[#22]
I read thru this thread, and didn’t see my question answered. I’ve never really looked at my muzzle break till reading this thread. It is loose on the end of the barrel. Is this normal? I kept reading about welds and nuts, and nothing on how snug the break fits, or if loose is normal
It’s a WASR 10/63 I’ve had for a little over a month with about 200 rounds thru it. A photos is worth a bunch of words, so here is what I have. 
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Posted: 10/17/2010 10:11:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Yes - that's why it's held in place by the notch and the plunger in the FSB.
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Posted: 10/17/2010 10:15:47 PM EDT
[#24]
FWIW - my SAR-1 now looks like this:
 I got a 14 to 24mm thread adapter and screwed on a real AK74 brake (made in the USA). I left my Romy G kit build with the slant brake - I really like the look of that. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 10/18/2010 1:04:56 AM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By Zhukov:
Yes - that's why it's held in place by the notch and the plunger in the FSB. Thank you. 
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USA
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Posted: 12/16/2010 8:54:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Well there's hope for my Romak 991 after all...
For those of you who find your muzzle unthreaded and with the barrel turned to a smaller diameter than normal, CNC Warrior manufactures two 1/2 x 28 RH slant brakes which might work. One of these brakes is a longer length for those barrels extending beyond the front sight more than normal (as in my case). I'm told if the barrel OD is a skosh over .500", it shouldn't be a problem to thread 1/2 x 28 RH. Planning on shipping mine out to be threaded after the holidays are paid for. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/18/2011 9:59:19 PM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By Zhukov:
FWIW - my SAR-1 now looks like this: http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=961 I got a 14 to 24mm thread adapter and screwed on a real AK74 brake (made in the USA). I left my Romy G kit build with the slant brake - I really like the look of that. My WASR doesn't have threads. The barrel is .5 inches (16 mm). Could I thread the barrel to accept this adapter? Could I thread it for the 14 mm threads and use an AK 74 break? |
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Posted: 1/18/2011 10:28:57 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By Electricview: Also this guide confuses me.. he talks about ak74 style breaks but then mentions that he doesnt know of any ak74 style breaks for 5.45 that fit the thread turn... Umm isn't ak74 supposed to be 5.45 caliber??.. AM majorly confused can someone explain please? AK-74 brakes come with several internal bores. Common are 14mmx1LH, 22mmx1LH (unique to Romanian muzzle brakes), and 24mmx1LH. I don't know if there are any AK74-style brakes in 5.45 caliber which thread on 14mmx1LH barrels. This would be important to someone with a SAR-2 trying to keep the correct AK74 "look" by threading the barrel. I should clarify: The 14x1LH brakes are AK74 "type" brakes. They're certainly not the real deal. Only the 22mm Romanian and 24mm brakes are the "real" AK74 brakes. |
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Posted: 1/18/2011 10:31:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Zhukov]
[#29]
Originally Posted By Macadore: My WASR doesn't have threads. The barrel is .5 inches (16 mm). Could I thread the barrel to accept this adapter? Could I thread it for the 14 mm threads and use an AK 74 break? 1/2" is 12.7mm, not 16. If your barrel diameter is 16mm is might work although that sounds too thick. 12.7 is way too thin. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2011 3:33:10 PM EDT
[#30]
Originally Posted By Zhukov:
Originally Posted By Macadore:
My WASR doesn't have threads. The barrel is .5 inches (16 mm). Could I thread the barrel to accept this adapter? Could I thread it for the 14 mm threads and use an AK 74 break? 1/2" is 12.7mm, not 16. If your barrel diameter is 16mm is might work although that sounds too thick. 12.7 is way too thin. Thanks so much for you reply. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 4/18/2011 2:21:22 AM EDT
[#31]
Tapco M16 style. Not too authentic, but highly effective. Not worried about bayo, as lug is ground off. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 9/27/2011 11:25:24 PM EDT
[#32]
does any1 still rent out the thread kit? i have a sar1 i would like to put a break on
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Posted: 1/4/2012 12:51:30 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By CARJACKED:
I cut the welded nut off of my new GP WASR 10 and the barrel was threaded 14x1mm LH. Just FYI... I did the same thing and added a Tapco brake to the end. . . I dont know ifmy barrel is bad or the brake has poor quality control, but the thing bounces around even with loctite (due to the heat) |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 1/3/2013 12:37:08 PM EDT
[#34]
I want to do the same to my 10/63 but have no idea if the barrel is threaded. It has a nut welded on the end, I was going to take it off with a dremel but I'm worried I will find out it isn't threaded.
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Posted: 1/4/2013 4:30:22 PM EDT
[#35]
Why don't you post pics of it, and we can probably help you out.
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Posted: 1/4/2013 6:15:18 PM EDT
[#36]
Originally Posted By clemsondude:
I want to do the same to my 10/63 but have no idea if the barrel is threaded. It has a nut welded on the end, I was going to take it off with a dremel but I'm worried I will find out it isn't threaded. Cut the welds and take it off. I had the same problem, once I got it off I found that the barrel was NOT threaded. No big deal, you can buy or rent the correct die, guide, and handle online. It's not hard to thread the barrel.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 4/7/2013 10:02:59 PM EDT
[#37]
I have a WASR 10 and have dremeled off the barrel nut to reveal threads...bought a Tapco 74 type brake and suffered accuracy problems until I realized that using a Nitrile O-ring as a washer is NOT the way to mount and index the brake. It wobbled to and fro until I got a couple 5/8" id, black external split rings at the hardware, and was lucky that with only one (using it for a spacer washer), was able to tighten the brake on, properly indexed and most importantly...good and tight.
The brake does not move about on the barrel, and with no filing or mucking around making a spacer washer with a cut out for the index plunger pin. |
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