WASR 10 muzzle break help

AK-47 » Romanian

AK Sponsor:

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - WASR 10 muzzle break help

Posted: 10/4/2014 7:36:52 PM EDT

I recently picked up a wasr in a trade. I was wanting to take off the slant break and add something different, but this thing REFUSES to come loose. I dont see any weld/pin marks though. I have some pics below that you can use to confirm or prove me wrong with. Is there a secret to getting them off? I know that they are clockwise when removing. My friend and I together could not get this sucker off

The final pic I tried to get inside of the break. Looked like there was some carbon there that I have been trying to remove.

Posted: 10/4/2014 11:45:27 PM EDT

[#1]

Throw some heat on it. Somebody may have put a threadlocker on it.

I hate to ask, but is the detent compressed when you're trying to remove it?

Posted: 10/5/2014 7:47:52 AM EDT

[#2]

Posted: 10/5/2014 2:19:02 PM EDT

[#3]

Yes I had the detention fully depressed when trying to remove this.

. When heating it is there a specific amount of time to heat it for?

Posted: 10/5/2014 3:06:37 PM EDT

[#4]

Sorry, we had to ask. Gotta try the low hanging fruit first.

If it's red loctite, I think you're supposed to heat it to around 400degF and then it should break.

Posted: 10/5/2014 4:41:27 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
Sorry, we had to ask. Gotta try the low hanging fruit first.

If it's red loctite, I think you're supposed to heat it to around 400degF and then it should break.

View Quote

I completely understand asking the basics. Im like that when teaching friends how to cast bullets. Ill see if I can find a torch/heat gun and try to break it. Ill keep you all posted on the success or failure.

Posted: 10/7/2014 4:34:11 PM EDT

[#6]

So I took a heat gun to the muzzle break today and got it nice and hot. Had my brother depress the pin as far as he could and tried to unscrew this thing. It tried so hard in fact that I somehow managed to cut my hand open from trying to twist this damn thing off

. After all of that I still couldnt get this thing to come off. I know that aks are taken off by unscrewing to the right but this thing was forged by satin. If I use a dremel, is it possible to cut this off without damaging the threads?

Posted: 10/8/2014 11:21:18 AM EDT

[#7]

I had the same problem a few years back when I had a WASR. Channel locks and He-Man strength are what ultimately won the fight. However, once I got the damn thing off, I found the threads were not in the typical combloc pattern, but were instead 5/8-24 as used on the AR-10. Weird.

Posted: 10/8/2014 11:48:46 AM EDT

[#8]

Try turning it to the LEFT.

Commies stuff tends to go that way, sir.

Posted: 10/8/2014 3:07:37 PM EDT

[#9]

I have tried both ways, and let it soak in some tread breaker over night. I ended up actually shearing some of the break off I twisted so hard. Then I noticed a tiny spot on the bottom and sanded the paint off. Do the pictures below look like a pin to anyone else? I cant tell if maybe it is a pin that was just hidden really well, or if maybe it is a manufacturing mark of some sort. As you can tell I am not worried about the slant break so I can cut it off if that is what it takes.

Before sanding the paint

After sanding the paint

Posted: 10/8/2014 3:14:15 PM EDT

[#10]

It would be odd for a slant brake to be blind pinned on an AK. Typically they are spot welded to the fsp. At this point, i'd brake out a dremel and split the brake off the threads. With a steady hand, if you cut both sides there should be minimal damage to the threads if any.

Posted: 10/8/2014 4:46:20 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:
It would be odd for a slant brake to be blind pinned on an AK. Typically they are spot welded to the fsp. At this point, i'd brake out a dremel and split the brake off the threads. With a steady hand, if you cut both sides there should be minimal damage to the threads if any.

View Quote

When cutting, is it easy to tell once you are hitting the threads? I know there cant be that much metal to go through. Thanks again for all of the advice.

Posted: 10/9/2014 9:44:40 AM EDT

[#12]

That's not a blind pin. It's just the letter C stamp. Stands for Century, it's their way of marking parts to show it's a USA made part.

Posted: 10/9/2014 9:46:40 AM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
Try turning it to the LEFT.

Commies stuff tends to go that way, sir.

View Quote

Commie stuff like this is left hand thread, so turning left would tighten it.

Posted: 10/16/2014 10:32:00 PM EDT

[#14]

My two very early post bans were tapped 1/2"X20 NF RIGHT HAND. Looked as if they ran the muzzle through the die after the fact, without removing the front sight base. The result, was that it left a shoulder immediately forward of the base, and when turned in tight left a gap between the forward face of the base and the flange of the brake, looking much like in your picture. It drove me nuts so I chucked the brake up on the lathe and made a relief cut on the inside diameter so it would clear the last few uncut thread portions and butt up against the sight base when tight. Not all of them are proper left hand threads. By any chance was this rifle from 2004-2006?

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - WASR 10 muzzle break help

AK-47 » Romanian

AK Sponsor:

Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.

Warning

Confirm Action

About AR15.COM

Stay Connected

Newsletter

Contact Us