1. Can ak 2 stage trigger be used in it?

2. Can muzzle brake come off, if so what thread pitch?

Thanks.

Don't sweat the outside diameter of the non threaded muzzle. Patience, a file, a caliper, a die guide, and the die will work. If you end up needing it.

A wake up call on trigger technique is what you'll get when you touch off three rounds.

If I can do it with a standard trigger. Then anyone with a G2 or a staged trigger is going to dump a mag.

If you get a OOB on a PSL you get to eat a lot of gas.

The RSA FCG should work just fine, just make sure it's properly adjusted.

They are using single hook versions.



A double hook usually can't be used because there is usually only one hook slot in a PSL receiver. You would have to cut the hook off or cut the second slot in your receiver.


My PSL came with a G2 that should have been in the reject pile. Pulling the trigger felt like dragging a cement block thru rocks.

On all AK type triggers, length of trigger pull is the distance of trigger hook engagement on the sear. The screws on the Red Star set how far the trigger can rock and therefore limit the hook/sear engagement; its that simple.

I bought a bag of standard cheap double hook triggers that I never used and started working on my G2. I polished the trigger and the sear and slightly reshaped the trigger so it didn't scratch the sear (yeah, my G2 had a claw on it). I considered shortening my trigger hook, but instead found a shim that fit under the trigger that shortened the travel the same way the Red Star set screw does. I can take the shim out to go back to the original travel or use thicker or thinner shims to adjust ... just like turning the screws on the Red Star, but I don't have to worry about the set screw coming loose.

After all that I still had a rough trigger. I made a polished brass trigger axis bushing (to replace the cheap rolled steel bushing) ... it helped so little that I realized there had to be another problem ... my trigger was dragging on the side of my receiver in the trigger slot. I considered remaking the trigger axis assembly with locators on both sides to hold the trigger centered in the slot so it wouldn't drag on either side of the slot ... but first I polished the sides of the slot ... and the sides of the trigger. The really bad machining on both sides of the trigger itself were the problem.

One last thing I did was bale off on side of the trigger spring. I have a plate type axis pin locator instead of the shepard's crook ... that holds one side of my shim plate, the unused trigger spring holds the other side.

Now I have a comfortable, light, smooth and reliable trigger ... about a 3 pound pull, as smooth as butter with about half the travel.

All of the work could have been done to a standard trigger with the same results.

The OP asked if the trigger would work in his gun, not weather you thought it would be too light. The trigger does fit.

how does an outofbattery happen when bump firing? is there a particular scenario? I'm scared now to bump any AK....

I did let my RSA trigger loosen up so much that I could shoulder bump the PSL... into the side of a mountain that is (not on a target) But that was only one occasion. I tightened the trigger back up after that day.