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MagnoliaJake
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Posted: 5/31/2011 7:00:18 PM
I was wanting to put a muzzle brake on my MAK 90. Is this adapter the only way to put a Muzzle Brake on a MAK 90?
I don't like the look of the "Bolt On" Brake. Can I buy a die and put threads on the barrell and get a traditional screw on muzzle brake?
If threads are possible, where is a good place to buy a thread die?

98_1LE
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Posted: 5/31/2011 7:20:18 PM
I have been told you need to remove the front sight block to properly thread them. Most of them have enough meat to thead them, but I have one that looks like it was threaded, then ground down, so no reathreading it 14mmx1L. It had enough meat to do 1/2"x28.

Personally I do not like those adapter things. For one they have to mar the finish, and second it is only a matter of time before it goes flying down range. Put a real brake on it and I don't think it would take long.

You can also braze on a brake, although that is more permanent.
ak4784
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Posted: 5/31/2011 7:42:29 PM
I had that exact device.....yep if flew off during shooting and went about 20 feet down range. I didnt bother puting it back on. I didnt notice any difference anyway.

I have read about guys drimmeling small "dents" into the barrel where those screws go....so it cant really fly off and use loctite.
Black-Tiger
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Posted: 5/31/2011 7:48:49 PM
I have a MAK with an unthreaded barrel; is it possible to actually thread the Norinco barrels to the proper pitch (14x1 LH) to add a slant break of muzzle collar? Is there plenty of metal in there to do it?
RIP SGT. Robert "Bobby" Wagner - 8/1/2004, Mosul Iraq.
"I really think people are trying to out-stupid each other." - D233
MagnoliaJake
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Posted: 5/31/2011 8:01:48 PM
Originally Posted By Black-Tiger:
I have a MAK with an unthreaded barrel; is it possible to actually thread the Norinco barrels to the proper pitch (14x1 LH) to add a slant break of muzzle collar? Is there plenty of metal in there to do it?

I would also like to know if there is enough meat to safely use a die to put threads on the barrel.
Any of you guys ever do this and we would love to see some photos.

ak4784
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Posted: 5/31/2011 10:47:58 PM
Yes it can be done...and is done all the time. The problem is that you have to look at your bbl and make sure that there were not origionally threads there that were ground off(that happened during the ban a lot). If the tip of your bbl looks like its notched down a step or looks thinner than the rest of the bbl then its likely thats what happened.

If the tip of the barrel looks like the same thickness as the rest of the bbl then your probably good to go. I dont have any pics of barrels that were threaded at home....however if you post pics of your bbl we can tell you if its been altered before and if threading it will work.
AEnemaBay
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Posted: 5/31/2011 11:24:44 PM
Yes it can be done, but the diameter of the barrel dictates at what pitch. I was lucky enough to get one with just enough meat for the standard 14x1L instead of 1/2x28.

Half converted Mak-90:



Re-threaded Mak-90 barrel:



Completely converted Mak-90:

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PreemptiveStrike
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Posted: 6/2/2011 8:44:06 AM
You'll need at least .550 to be able to thread 1x14mm LH, which is the traditional ak 47 threads. If you have less you'll have to go 1/2x28 RH. Also when you thread the muzzle then technically 922 comes into play since you're altering the rifle from it's original sporting configuration that it was allowed to be imported under. You could always weld it on and then 922 doesn't come into play as the device will be a part of the barrel.
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chromefish
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Posted: 6/14/2011 4:41:54 PM
[Last Edit: 6/14/2011 4:49:07 PM by chromefish]
Check Youtube for videos on threading a muzzle.... I think both I saw were on Saiga's but the mechanics are the same.... I did my slant cut Mak that had muzzle diameter of .550 Easy to do with the right tools...

I am currently a crush washer to hold the device in place, but will change the front sight base to get the correct FSB and retainer pin that AEnemaBay has pictured above....(nicely done BTW!)

RiverBend
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Posted: 6/22/2011 7:51:36 AM
You can get an original looking AK brake that pins on using the front sight pin.ts long enough & split at the sight interface to reach the pin hole/groove, then just pop in longer pin that comes with it.
CarlosC
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Posted: 6/25/2011 7:59:22 PM
[Last Edit: 6/25/2011 7:59:55 PM by CarlosC]
IMO, to properly do the threading, you have to take off the FSB. I know one guy somewhere told me you can simply reverse the die to get close tot he FSB without removing it though, but I'd rather just take it off and do it right. I also decreased the depth of the cut as I got closer to pinch the muzzle nut once I installed it.

No matter what, do not use the adapter. I have yet to see one that has not flown off.

I did mine at 1/2x28 and then installed the retrofit bayonet, which creates some of it's own issues, such as you have to use a muzzle nut, not a slant brake.

frick
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Posted: 7/28/2011 2:38:05 PM
You can grind out the thread on the Break/Nut itself, and epoxy them on, I have done it, and they can be removed easily with heat gun or torch to melt the epoxy if you decide to thread later. It works, and is quick and easy.

As for the thread adapters, I got one years ago, to add a zig zag brake onto a SAR 2, it shot off, using standard screws, so the solution was......

Index the brake on the adapter to work when its tight to the front sight base.

Put it on the barrel, without the three set screws in place, and scribe the location of the screw holes on the barrel.

Drill a small divet on the barrel in the three locations you just marked, you will have to center punch the marks, and use a bit about the size of your screws.

Change the standard flat bottomed set screws to ones with the "V" pointed bottom, that better fits the divet shape you just drilled in the barrel'

Crank tight and use a low strength "Wicking" Lock Tite to secure the screws.

Shoot. I have hundreds of rounds through mine with no issues, and, if you ever decide to thread, the divets will be hidden under a real brake if you do thread in the future.

HTH.
Black-Tiger
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Posted: 8/3/2011 7:17:13 PM
My barrel is exactly like the one on AB's MAK. I already had the parts installed (well, pressed into position, but not pinned in place, gonan have to gety another gunsmith to drill/pin them in place); now, muy question will be if i will be able to have the barrel threaded; looks to me like I will have to remove the FSB again in order to thread the barrel, or can i do it without having to go through removing the FSB again? QAt this moment, i don't care if the thread is the Chinese 14x1 LH or 1/2x28 RH. i just want it done.
RIP SGT. Robert "Bobby" Wagner - 8/1/2004, Mosul Iraq.
"I really think people are trying to out-stupid each other." - D233
PreemptiveStrike
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Posted: 8/4/2011 1:36:15 PM
Originally Posted By Black-Tiger:
My barrel is exactly like the one on AB's MAK. I already had the parts installed (well, pressed into position, but not pinned in place, gonan have to gety another gunsmith to drill/pin them in place); now, muy question will be if i will be able to have the barrel threaded; looks to me like I will have to remove the FSB again in order to thread the barrel, or can i do it without having to go through removing the FSB again? QAt this moment, i don't care if the thread is the Chinese 14x1 LH or 1/2x28 RH. i just want it done.


You don't have to remove the FSB to thread the barrel. Find out what the diameter of the barrel is. If it's .550 or greater you can thread it 1x14mm LH. If it's less thread it 1/2x28 RH. Get whichever die you need, a handle, and a Thread Alignment Tool (aka TAT). You'll be able to run the threads right up to the FSB with no need to take the FSB off.

If you don't have a detent plunger but do have a hole in the front of the FSB for one you can knock out the front pin on your FSB and install the spring and plunger.
If you don't even have a hole for the detent pin you can use a crush washer or us locktight to hold the muzzle device on after you thread the barrel, just make sure to index the device in the correct position.

The AK rifles weren't designed to have the muzzle device locked up tight to the FSB like an AR is. They were designed with the detent plunger to index and hold the muzzle device in place so it's normal for a properly installed muzzle device to be loose.

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akethan

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Posted: 8/4/2011 1:42:36 PM
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Originally Posted By Black-Tiger:
My barrel is exactly like the one on AB's MAK. I already had the parts installed (well, pressed into position, but not pinned in place, gonan have to gety another gunsmith to drill/pin them in place); now, muy question will be if i will be able to have the barrel threaded; looks to me like I will have to remove the FSB again in order to thread the barrel, or can i do it without having to go through removing the FSB again? QAt this moment, i don't care if the thread is the Chinese 14x1 LH or 1/2x28 RH. i just want it done.


You don't have to remove the FSB to thread the barrel. Find out what the diameter of the barrel is. If it's .550 or greater you can thread it 1x14mm LH. If it's less thread it 1/2x28 RH. Get whichever die you need, a handle, and a Thread Alignment Tool (aka TAT). You'll be able to run the threads right up to the FSB with no need to take the FSB off.

If you don't have a detent plunger but do have a hole in the front of the FSB for one you can knock out the front pin on your FSB and install the spring and plunger.
If you don't even have a hole for the detent pin you can use a crush washer or us locktight to hold the muzzle device on after you thread the barrel, just make sure to index the device in the correct position.

The AK rifles weren't designed to have the muzzle device locked up tight to the FSB like an AR is. They were designed with the detent plunger to index and hold the muzzle device in place so it's normal for a properly installed muzzle device to be loose.



Good advice. I threaded my NHM-91 years ago and I did not remove the FSB.

NRA Endowment, PLTDillo#343, SJCRC, RMC, and Life AR15.com member.
Black-Tiger
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Posted: 8/4/2011 4:58:41 PM
Thanks for the advice; there's a caliper here that is gathering dust, might borrow it and do the measurements, but chances are; the barrel is thick enough to take a slant brake. Now, all i need would be to get the slant brake (CNC Warrior sells slant brakes for $6.99 and muzzle nuts for $7.99), along with the detent spring and pin.





RIP SGT. Robert "Bobby" Wagner - 8/1/2004, Mosul Iraq.
"I really think people are trying to out-stupid each other." - D233
Black-Tiger
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Posted: 8/4/2011 5:03:01 PM
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Originally Posted By Black-Tiger:
My barrel is exactly like the one on AB's MAK. I already had the parts installed (well, pressed into position, but not pinned in place, gonan have to gety another gunsmith to drill/pin them in place); now, muy question will be if i will be able to have the barrel threaded; looks to me like I will have to remove the FSB again in order to thread the barrel, or can i do it without having to go through removing the FSB again? QAt this moment, i don't care if the thread is the Chinese 14x1 LH or 1/2x28 RH. i just want it done.


You don't have to remove the FSB to thread the barrel. Find out what the diameter of the barrel is. If it's .550 or greater you can thread it 1x14mm LH. If it's less thread it 1/2x28 RH. Get whichever die you need, a handle, and a Thread Alignment Tool (aka TAT). You'll be able to run the threads right up to the FSB with no need to take the FSB off.

If you don't have a detent plunger but do have a hole in the front of the FSB for one you can knock out the front pin on your FSB and install the spring and plunger.
If you don't even have a hole for the detent pin you can use a crush washer or us locktight to hold the muzzle device on after you thread the barrel, just make sure to index the device in the correct position.

The AK rifles weren't designed to have the muzzle device locked up tight to the FSB like an AR is. They were designed with the detent plunger to index and hold the muzzle device in place so it's normal for a properly installed muzzle device to be loose.



Yeah, I noticed that on the brake on my SLR-105, which is all good with me; the Polish FSB I got for my MAK has the hole for the detent pin and spring, so it will be easy to use a spring and a pin to keep the brake in place. Can't wait for thie rifle to be fully completed, I am so psyched about it - Already saw the rifle and the guy that press-fitted the parts for me did a fgod job, even bluing the barrel portion after fitting the parts; all I need is to take the rifle to another shop to have the parts pinned into place (if I cannot get the guy to pin them in place). I will post pics once the two rifles are fully modded.
RIP SGT. Robert "Bobby" Wagner - 8/1/2004, Mosul Iraq.
"I really think people are trying to out-stupid each other." - D233
Black-Tiger
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Posted: 8/21/2011 7:49:06 PM
Went to the shop to check on my MAK; seems the gunsmith pussied out on me and opted not to do the work :-(

:uckily, they will send it to BWE Firearms in Longwood, FL. They seem to be a legit outfit (http://www.bwefirearms.com) - The shop guy told me he was good and will do a good job on it - we'll see. In the meantime, i will pick up my SLR105 from Blackbriar Arms and hopefully will take it to the range on the weekend (my 4-day weekend woo-hoo).
RIP SGT. Robert "Bobby" Wagner - 8/1/2004, Mosul Iraq.
"I really think people are trying to out-stupid each other." - D233
AK-47 » Chinese