Shooting my 106 and had some Wolf and Tula ammo.  After shooting for awhile I began to have casings get stuck on the chamber and had to do a buttstock slam to get them out.  I'm sure the cause is the coating on the rounds melting off.

Anyone else get this?

I had it happen to my 106 a few years ago during a range session. Ended up cleaning it thoroughly and never had any other issues.

I had this happen about 60 rds into a shooting session with two rounds of Tula.  I let it cool and cleaned the chamber and went on shooting.  I had greased it just prior to shooting and think I over did it.  Later there was a lot of gunk caked under the extractor.

Thanks for the replies,

I'm neck deep into this new rifle and was hoping to save some $$$ by not having to feed it my AR ammo.

The best thing you can do to keep this from happening is just clean the chamber well after each range session.

Carbon build-up is pretty much guaranteed to happen with steel cased ammo and the .223's taper is much less significant than the commbloc rounds. The fact that 5.45x39 and 7.62x39 casings have heavier tapers aids in extraction, even with a dirty chamber.

The sticking likely has nothing to do with the coating on the rounds. It is almost entirely a combination of carbon build-up from ammo that burns dirty and a lightly tapered case.

Thanks,  figured a good cleaning was in order.

Does it become a less of a problem the more it's fired?

My experience has shown that it is just the nature of the design. Variations in chamber dimensions can make it better or worse depending on the rifle. I've had ARs that hated steel cased ammo.

This is in large part why I usually opt for one of the Soviet/Russian cartridges over .223/5.56 for AKs.

I'll throw it out there, a few years back I had a couple bad batches of Tula. They shot like shit in my Saiga and would regularly short stroke or jam. The jams were spent case stuck in the chamber, and required a cleaning rod to knock out..

I found many of the case necks were out of spec, and cases seemed to have no polymer coating at all, some had noticable surface rust. Many were so undercharged that they would short stroke, with visible weak ejection or FTE/FTF.

There were more than a few people that had same things going on around the same time (2011-2012) with the Tula .223.

OTOH I've put many hundreds of rounds of newer Barnaul-manufactured Wolf through it in a single range session, often forgetting to lube the rifle at all, and it chugs through them no issues. I've also had zero issue with the newer Wolf stuff in ARs.

I would look at the ammo first, and in the future when buying steel-cased .223 I would really suggest you seek out Barnaul-manufactured .223 - e.g. Wolf, Silve/Brown Bear, etc. Most of the Tula I had problems with, and some older Wolf as well, were manufactured at Ulyanovsk.

The Wolf Military Classic also feels more stout than Wolf black box .223, it feels the same as M193 side by side. Even when the two have the same Barnaul headstamp, I suspect they are loading the Wolf MC to 5.56 spec but I cannot verify this as I don't own a chrono.

I have scrubbed the chamber on the Saiga maybe once. It doesn't seem to need it. Have never had a single ammo failure of any type after those bad lots of Tula.

My 106 did the same thing. I cleaned it and only run brass ammo now it runs flawless. It does not like steel case for some reason.

Not that I planed it, but my 106 is strictly a brass gun.

Looks like I'm leaning towards brass only, just sucks I spent the $$$. No way it's going in my ARs

Thx for the help

P.m. me if you want to sell.  Im sure one of my four 106s will eat it like a fat kid at a buffet....

no problem with steel case in my 106FR and CR

I clean after every outing anyways and I know not to shoot brass after shooting steel case,these 2 rifles have been reliable as can be..

Get your local smith to run a chamber polisher in it.

You've heard the reasoning - it's a 223 thing, not an AR or AK thing.  Steel doesn't stretch like brass, so you get soot blowback around the case into the chamber.  Tula is exceptionally dirty, and is probably the root cause of your malfunction.  Current manufacture Wolf is made by Barnaul, and even though it smells like cat piss, is relatively good stuff - accurate and not too sooty.  I suspect that if you clean your rifle after each outing (get a bore snake) and minimize use of Tula, you won't have a problem.