I picked up a Arsenal the other day and I am having a hard time removing the muzzle brake. The model number is SAM7R-61, I think this model should have a removable brake and mine wont budge. I haven't really tried that hard to remove it but this shouldn't require tools.
I used a brass punch to push in the pin and a tape wrapped punch through the ports to try to thread it off and no luck. I know left hand threads.
Does Arsenal use thread lock? Do I need a little heat maybe?

I don't see a SAM7R-61, but there is a -51 on the Arsenal site.

The muzzle attachment is listed as removable.
My FIRST move would be to contact Arsenal and ask them about this.  They built it, they know what's what, and you don't want to damage something.

With that said, these have left-hand threads and is removable so it should come off.
If you just can't wait to ask Arsenal, use a strap wrench or put a rod through the brake and use some force.
You don't want to bend or distort the brake.

Heat should not be needed and Loctite won't be in it unless you bought the rifle used and some fool used it.
You do see this stupidity by people who think AK muzzle attachments should not have any wobble, not understanding that after you fire a couple of rounds the fouling removes any looseness.

I'd get a good penetrating fluid like Kroil and liberally soak the joint.  Give it 24 hours to penetrate before trying the strap wrench or a rod as a handle.

Once you get the attachment off, clean it out thoroughly with a carbon removal chemical like Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.  Soak it per the jar directions, then liberally brush the threads on the attachment AND the barrel with a brass toothbrush to remove fouling.
An AK attachment can and will literally solder itself on from fouling build up unless you remove it fairly often and clean it and the threads out.
Some people don't do this and wind up with an attachment they can't get off at all.

The Arsenal SAM7R-61 is definitely listed as have a removeable brake.
As stated above, I would try a penetrating oil, such as Kroil, rather than heat. After that, I would probably try slipping a thin piece of metal through the side ports to increase my torque while turning it left.
The 74-style brake on the SAM7SF that I picked up was very tight as well, so I used the stated torque method, though no Kroil was needed.
Another option might be putting the rifle in the freezer for a couple hours, then try to remove the brake.
Good Luck...!!!

Thanks guys.
As I type this I'm looking at a large can of Kroil and I didn't even think of that.
I will apply some and try tomorrow.

I just checked, and my new SAM 7R is the same way.  That muzzle brake will not budge.  Please let us know how you get yours off, and I will do the same way.  I'm thinking about putting a little anti-sieze on mine after (when/if) I get this straightened out, and maybe that will solve the problem.

I had the same problem with my SLR-101S.   They painted the gun with the muzzle brake on and the paint dried and is keeping it stuck to the FSB or barrel.  Take a long screwdriver and put it through the brake then turn.

I will try that tonight when I have an extra set of hands around to make it a bit easier.
Thanks

+1, this method works everytime for me on the hardest brakes

Just got my brake removed!
Solvents etc will not help, it is painted on.
Man up, throw that high dollar milled receiver in a padded vice and crank on it. Mine made a little pop (not a POP) and came loose and all is good.

Good.....now call Arsenal to tell them they are stupid for painting it on.....then go shoot that sweet rifle, which is almost as cool as my SAM7SF.  

Yeah, I can't get mine to budge, either. I have a 101S, and I don't want to damage anything...

Anyway, that's looking down the barrel, I turn to the right, if I want to loosen it? To be clear, if I'm to place the stock of the gun on the ground, and hover my head over the muzzle, the direction I'd turn the break, if I wanted to loosen it, would be to the right, right?

For the life of me, I find the fact that Arsenal would make it so tough to remove muzzle break to frustrating, at the very least.

ETA: I got my off using a meat skewer (two of them) and a pen to depress the pin. Oh, and all of this while turning to the right.

Off topic, there is a place that folks mention, from time to time -- "CDI" or something like that. No, it's not CDNN, or Atlantic... For some reason, I can't remember their name to save my soul.   Thanks for your help.

Just a follow-on from my experience.  I cranked on this until I thought I was going to break it.  Since I was going to have it Cerakoted, I left it to the gunsmith.  He got it off, but said it looked like some combination of paint and thread lock.  He put my my new muzzle brake on and left it so that I can just break the hold with my hand.  

GeorgiaCarry

Well, mine came off using a screwdriver as a lever to turn it.  It broke free with a "pop", and when it did my hand slipped and it sliced my finger open on the front sight.    It bled like a sob. I think I need stitches to close it up.  The rifle's first blood.....Me.    A word to the wise....wear gloves if you are doing this on your SAM 7R.  It may save a lot of blood.  LOL

Such are the hazards of working on AK rifles.

Another famous wifferdill is trying to use a screwdriver to push down on the rear sight spring so you could remove the sight while it's resting on your knees.
This sometimes led to burying the screwdriver in your leg when the rifle slipped and rolled over.
This also usually gouged the rifle nicely too.

This is what I had to do with my SAM7R.

 

Update....lol  three weeks and my finger is still bandaged.  I waited too long for stitches, so the emergy center had to glue it and use those tape strips.  It's still glued and taped.  AK's Really are dangerous.  :-)

Well my muzzle brake was tight too... I soaked it in kroil for a day and after many attempts I got it to move using a 12" file I inserted the tang in the slot. The file tang is soft, well its tempered anyway I had to use a soft mallet on the side of the file while I held the Sam7r-61 it took a few taps but as soon as it came loose it was free to turn. So no thread lock was used not that I can see. Let the kroil set on it don't get in a hurry. And it didn't harm the painted finish at least not on mine.

What alternate muzzle brake are you guys going with?

I put a slant tapco brake on mine just because it was cheap and didnt like the look of the factory one.



I had similar issue rplacing it, and the detent pin was a pain in my ass. i just kept working it up and down until it was smooth enought and it didnt stick. Then I just had to pop to paint seal off of the factory brake and that was that...

WINNER,WINNER,WINNER..........

I have a SAM7R-61 as well, also had the brake/detent pin painted on. Brake came off easily by hand but, the pin was a PITA and kept sticking in the depressed position. Finally worked it out and working smoothly now that the finish has worn off the pin.

So twist to the right to take it off? "Left hand threads" means reverse threaded??

Whatever the opposite is. I'm hammered drunk right now can't remember which way it goes.

 

Could someone please confirm this?  So if I have the rifle between my knees and looking down at the muzzle brake, I turn the muzzle brake to the right (clockwise) to remove?


Regards

https://www.k-var.com/shop/SAM7R.html

Removable 4-port muzzle brake with 14x1mm left-hand threads.

question still not answere......

^^ This...

Arsenal is pretty bad about painting parts and fusing them in place, every SLR that left the factory for a good while had a seized up front sight...

Left hand threads mean that you twist to the left to tighten it, and to the right to loosen it.  Most AK's have left hand threads. This again is all on the Arsenal website under the spec section for each rifle they produce.

 

That is what I thought but wasn't positive.  Thanks for clarifying that.

Regards