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Posted: 6/24/2012 2:56:14 AM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Posted: 6/24/2012 3:55:44 AM
Originally Posted By fistpoint:
To make it an SBR requires cutting the barrel. My question is whether or not the barrel needs to be removed prior to the cut/crown? No need to remove the barrel. You will need to remove that pressed (and pinned?) flash hider to do so. Also, there are no threads under the flash hider on the FSG/GB, so that will have to be replaced or threaded as well. |
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Posted: 6/24/2012 7:30:16 AM
Originally Posted By sdrake100:
Originally Posted By fistpoint:
To make it an SBR requires cutting the barrel. My question is whether or not the barrel needs to be removed prior to the cut/crown? No need to remove the barrel. You will need to remove that pressed (and pinned?) flash hider to do so. Also, there are no threads under the flash hider on the FSG/GB, so that will have to be replaced or threaded as well. I thought the 106ur had the threaded FSB with a protector over the threads. Isn't the 106u the one with the threads removed? |
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Posted: 6/24/2012 9:31:09 AM
[Last Edit: 6/24/2012 9:31:44 AM by uao85]
The pistol and rifle 106u/ur are two different guns. The 106u is the pistol and would already be considered a sbr if you put a stock on it. The 106ur rifle does require the barrel to be cut in order to sbr, and no it does not have to be removed in order to cut and crown. But make sure you have your form 1 finished. and in hand before chopping. Also be absolutely sure that is what you want to do. You can always take more off, but you can never put it back. I would suggest starting at 10-12" in length. Shorter than 10" loses a lot of the desired characteristics of the 5.56 round. Mainly velocity and fragmenting on impact of a soft target.
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Posted: 6/24/2012 5:26:22 PM
Originally Posted By uao85:
The pistol and rifle 106u/ur are two different guns. Correct. Originally Posted By uao85:
The 106ur rifle does require the barrel to be cut in order to sbr, and no it does not have to be removed in order to cut and crown. I would suggest starting at 10-12" in length. Shorter than 10" loses a lot of the desired characteristics of the 5.56 round. Mainly velocity and fragmenting on impact of a soft target. Great, thanks. Aren't there a bunch of 8.5" barreled 5.56mm Krinks floating around the world already though? While not ideal, it does still work correctly right? |
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Posted: 6/24/2012 6:57:13 PM
[Last Edit: 6/24/2012 7:04:58 PM by uao85]
Yes there are definitely quite a few 5.56 krinks out there that work great. My main concern with my personal krinks though is the fragmenting aspect of rounds hitting soft targets. I would love to get my hands on a good chronograph and a large quantity of ballistics gel, and some 16", 12", 10" and 8.5" barreled rifles to test this out on with various kinds of ammo in both brass and steel casings. I have the 16" and 10.5" covered. But would like some others to have some more variation.
I wish I had some more concrete info on the fragmenting patterns and ballistics patterns of these rounds in 8.5 vs 10.5. But with the single source I have found for precisely that, it didn't leave much optimism for the 8.5" barrel. Heck I even already purchased the crowning tools for these krinks assuming all of mine would get the chop, but having read up on this topic a little the past week or two has me considering otherwise. Of course while Im dreaming, I would also like to do a side by side comparison with 5.45 rounds to see just how effective they are as well. I know there is a little bit of info out there from decades old com block testing, but nothing that is current that I have seen. I think what pops up the most in the old 5.45vs5.56 threads is the chart showing 5.45, 5.56 and 308 soft target impact and penetration patterns. Originally Posted By fistpoint:
Originally Posted By uao85:
The pistol and rifle 106u/ur are two different guns. Correct. Originally Posted By uao85:
The 106ur rifle does require the barrel to be cut in order to sbr, and no it does not have to be removed in order to cut and crown. I would suggest starting at 10-12" in length. Shorter than 10" loses a lot of the desired characteristics of the 5.56 round. Mainly velocity and fragmenting on impact of a soft target. Great, thanks. Aren't there a bunch of 8.5" barreled 5.56mm Krinks floating around the world already though? While not ideal, it does still work correctly right? |
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Posted: 6/26/2012 10:02:07 PM
Originally Posted By uao85:
Yes there are definitely quite a few 5.56 krinks out there that work great. My main concern with my personal krinks though is the fragmenting aspect of rounds hitting soft targets. I would love to get my hands on a good chronograph and a large quantity of ballistics gel, and some 16", 12", 10" and 8.5" barreled rifles to test this out on with various kinds of ammo in both brass and steel casings. I have the 16" and 10.5" covered. But would like some others to have some more variation. I wish I had some more concrete info on the fragmenting patterns and ballistics patterns of these rounds in 8.5 vs 10.5. But with the single source I have found for precisely that, it didn't leave much optimism for the 8.5" barrel. Heck I even already purchased the crowning tools for these krinks assuming all of mine would get the chop, but having read up on this topic a little the past week or two has me considering otherwise. Of course while Im dreaming, I would also like to do a side by side comparison with 5.45 rounds to see just how effective they are as well. I know there is a little bit of info out there from decades old com block testing, but nothing that is current that I have seen. I think what pops up the most in the old 5.45vs5.56 threads is the chart showing 5.45, 5.56 and 308 soft target impact and penetration patterns. Originally Posted By fistpoint:
Originally Posted By uao85:
The pistol and rifle 106u/ur are two different guns. Correct. Originally Posted By uao85:
The 106ur rifle does require the barrel to be cut in order to sbr, and no it does not have to be removed in order to cut and crown. I would suggest starting at 10-12" in length. Shorter than 10" loses a lot of the desired characteristics of the 5.56 round. Mainly velocity and fragmenting on impact of a soft target. Great, thanks. Aren't there a bunch of 8.5" barreled 5.56mm Krinks floating around the world already though? While not ideal, it does still work correctly right? do you work in a gun shop? |
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Posted: 6/27/2012 12:35:15 AM
All these questions were for a friend who went home today with the SLR-106u instead of the 16inch "ur" because they said after his 3 day delay they already went ahead and put it in their books(and he prepaid)...so he couldn't switch guns to the "ur". *I think they could have, and would have made an additional $300.
They also told him he cannot cut the barrel down on the 16" and made a fuss about requiring a special crown afterwards? I mentioned to my friend that the twist rates of the "u" and "ur" are identical(1/7) and the "u" barrel was originally a 16 inch "ur" barrel from Bulgaria, and if it couldn't be cut down, then what is that 10" barrel doing on the "u" already cut? It's possible they were assuming he meant to cut the 16" down to 8.5", not the 10" that the "u" has...otherwise what they said makes no sense. They certainly were aware of the ballistic issues. So now he's going to have the 106u SBR'ed and eventually replace the front sight block with a new threaded one and also add a real suppressor to the 10" barrel that will protrude past the FSB...which brings me to my final question below: I always assumed suppressors go on the end of the barrel, in this case the barrel will actually be inside the suppressor by 1-2 inches. Will that be a problem? |
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Posted: 6/27/2012 1:02:08 PM
Nah lol, I just like guns. Now that would be a dream of mine to open up my own shop, but I think that is a pipe dream that I share with thousands of other members here. I will try to find that article I mentioned before and post a link for others to read and make there own opinion.
side note, did I sound like I am trying to sell something?? Just curious, pb had a few drinks in me if it was the other night when I posted. Originally Posted By MouseBoy:
Originally Posted By uao85:
Yes there are definitely quite a few 5.56 krinks out there that work great. My main concern with my personal krinks though is the fragmenting aspect of rounds hitting soft targets. I would love to get my hands on a good chronograph and a large quantity of ballistics gel, and some 16", 12", 10" and 8.5" barreled rifles to test this out on with various kinds of ammo in both brass and steel casings. I have the 16" and 10.5" covered. But would like some others to have some more variation. I wish I had some more concrete info on the fragmenting patterns and ballistics patterns of these rounds in 8.5 vs 10.5. But with the single source I have found for precisely that, it didn't leave much optimism for the 8.5" barrel. Heck I even already purchased the crowning tools for these krinks assuming all of mine would get the chop, but having read up on this topic a little the past week or two has me considering otherwise. Of course while Im dreaming, I would also like to do a side by side comparison with 5.45 rounds to see just how effective they are as well. I know there is a little bit of info out there from decades old com block testing, but nothing that is current that I have seen. I think what pops up the most in the old 5.45vs5.56 threads is the chart showing 5.45, 5.56 and 308 soft target impact and penetration patterns. Originally Posted By fistpoint:
Originally Posted By uao85:
The pistol and rifle 106u/ur are two different guns. Correct. Originally Posted By uao85:
The 106ur rifle does require the barrel to be cut in order to sbr, and no it does not have to be removed in order to cut and crown. I would suggest starting at 10-12" in length. Shorter than 10" loses a lot of the desired characteristics of the 5.56 round. Mainly velocity and fragmenting on impact of a soft target. Great, thanks. Aren't there a bunch of 8.5" barreled 5.56mm Krinks floating around the world already though? While not ideal, it does still work correctly right? do you work in a gun shop? |
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