Well, I got 20 of 24 FALs shipped, so I had a few minutes to take a picture to illustrate what is obvious to those who understand the AK.

As clearly demonstrated, the Arsenal rifles incorporate a tall rear trigger guard rivet to stop the (mid length, semiauto) disconnector tail from contacting the inside of the trigger and slapping it back forward.

 It should not be possible.  for trigger slap to happen in an Arsenal.  If it were to happen (and the OP's complaint was TAPCO, not Arsenal), I would suspect one of three things.

1. Gun does not have the tall rivet
2. Disconnector tail has been cut
3. There is a significant dimensional error in the part(s) that allow the tail to strike the inside of the trigger.

On the third option, I'm  the clearance cut in the receiver being too long, may allow  the trigger to be pulled too far to the rear.  
Or the front underside of the trigger arm being undersize, allowing the trigger to pull too far to the rear.

Again, these are hypothetical, as the only time I've experienced trigger slap in a rifle with the Arsenal FCG is if it also has the short rivet.  And I've installed over a thousand trigger groups: original, TAPCO, Red Star, Arsenal, CAI, FSE, and Texas.

Now here's a mid-length disconnector  with the short rivet..  It's a factory full-auto disconnector, shortened just far enough to eliminate the full-auto portion of the tail  These are most notorious for trigger-slap.






And here's the TAPCO.  The no-tail disconnector should not be able to cause slap.  It won't contact unless the disconnector is hyper-extended, which should not happen if the spring and spring hole are correct length/depth.  An incorrect spring or incorrect hole depth could allow the disconnector to contact after being snapped rearward by the hammer lobe, but something would have to be significantly off.  






So my suspicion is the OP has a bad TAPCO set, a bad disconnector spring, excess length in receiver slot, or insufficient depth under trigger claw.  The latter two allow the trigger to be pulled too far to the rear and can allow for hyper-extension of the disconnector.  

I'll be awaiting your apology.

I admit you are correct about the full auto disconnector contacting the rivet.

However, what you're missing is the proper solution is not a special rivet, but is to remove material from the bottom of the disconnector so it does not impact the trigger.  As I identified on page one of this thread, trigger slap is caused by the failure for the disconnector to move properly through its full range of motion.  OPs G2 disconnector problem will not be solved by a special rivet because the G2 disconnector has no tail and cannot contact the rivet.

You'll have to keep waiting for the apology.  I asked for photos supporting for your assertion, instead we went through 3 pages of butthurt with you dodging the response.  This hasn't been about you, this was about providing factual evidence that supported the operation of the disconnector.  Instead, your ego, superiority complex, and poor attitude got in the way of professional discourse.

You attack the person instead of the argument.

About what I expected from a petulant child.

You repeatedly evaded my question because you knew the answer would demonstrate that you are (as usual) 100% wrong.  This is so simple - so basic to the AK, that I figured just phrasing the question would make you say to yourself "duh, why did I think that?!"   Such as "Contact mark under disconnector caused by WHAT?  (Church Lady Voice) Hmmm.  Disconnector maybe?  

But no, you just doubled down with your idiocy.  Sigh. And you wonder why I'm not in a big rush to take photos for someone too lazy to look at it first?  

I think you're still butthurt and pouting over me pointing out that your neat animations didn't actually show how the parts in question function.  And yes, I still think they were cool.  They were just wrong.

Got a 85c. Has the rivet and it was getting banged up deformed from contact. Trigger slap with the original trigger group. Bought the two different US made trigger groups and got slap out of them both. Put an extra power recoil spring on it and the slap went away. I can only guess that the recoil was so much that the stiffer spring in two of the trigger groups was still pushing against the trigger during the quick compression and it was felt as a slap and the softer spring in the other combined with no tail caused it to slap.

Putting a piece of rubber hose on the trigger like a SWD M12 seem to help also.