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952melvin
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Posted: 7/6/2012 10:59:53 PM

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I got this AMD a year or so ago, it has the same Ejection problem everytime. Fires 1-4 rounds and then malfunctions. Any ideas appreciated.







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Posted: 7/7/2012 11:18:51 AM
Check the extractor to see if it holds the round tight, try just removing it for cleaning & inspecting the parts for wear when apart.
And check the ejector to see how deep it sets in the groove in the side of the bolt it may not be deep enough. It needs to almost be touching the bottom of the groove in the side of the bolt.
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Posted: 7/7/2012 11:53:51 AM
Without actually seeing it it looks like the extractor is not holding the shell tight till it hits the claw and the bullet is not being bounced off the claw, either it's dirty and the claw is not fully sitting in it's place or the claw and or spring is wrong...pics of the front and side of the bolt would help.
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Posted: 7/9/2012 12:08:56 AM
[Last Edit: 7/9/2012 12:09:45 AM by Gunplumber]
got one in the shop with same problem. This is the one I'd previously inquired on gas port diameter, thinking it might be under-gassed, despite being a factory barrel. Was 3.5mm I'm still messing with it, but it appears the ejector may be too short. The one I have is a NODAK which makes a dimensional issue less likely than yours, but it is still all I have left to look at.
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952melvin
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Posted: 7/9/2012 4:40:29 AM
How can I tell if the ejector is to short? I took a look at it last night, it appears that it might be bent down a bit too, will this matter? The bolt seems a little loose, and the gas piston is lose and has back an forth play, with about a 16th of an inch gap between the rim of the piston and the bolt carrier, maybe not pinned in right?
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Posted: 7/10/2012 10:01:30 AM
[Last Edit: 7/10/2012 10:11:37 AM by jdoming728]
take off the cover and the spring then cycle it to where the ejector is in the slot of the bolt and carrier and see how much clearance you have on the bolt you should not have much at all if its more than the thickness of a hair (roughly) then you might have to much... Take a pic of that and post it Im sure we all will give you our views... you can check it with a Caliper and see what the measurement is from the outside of the receiver to the outer most part of the extractor. If you need that dimension let me know for a Ak-47..
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952melvin
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Posted: 7/10/2012 4:15:38 PM
There is a significant gap, about a 16th of an inch, and there is a lot of play with the bolt in that position (end of ejector flush with end of bolt). I take it you fix this by bending the ejector up?



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Posted: 7/10/2012 4:27:25 PM
It is difficult to tell from the pic but I see too issues - one the ejector needs to be longer. The cause of this could be the ejector itself, or the center support rivet could be too long which draws the ejector away from center-line. The bolt should be as close to the ejector as possible. It is a weld repair. I weld them so they are too long and file until they just kiss the bolt.

The other issue, again difficult to be sure from the pic, is the ejector appears to be curved on its leading edge. It should be as close to 90 degrees as possible. I'm speculating that the slight concavity is contributing to an ejection path more forward than to the right. Perhaps squaring this wil fix the problem without any welding.

If you do weld, I use a copper backing plate and stainless weld. The lower carbon content in the stainless, at least theoretically, will reduce the chance of carbon migrating to the heat and making the weld brittle.

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Posted: 7/10/2012 5:03:03 PM
The new welded ejector will work for a while but eventually round over & will need to be re-welded or replaced.
I have one that was doing the same thing & the weld worked for a while but it needs to be repaired again. I'm just going to demill it and replace the receiver.
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Posted: 7/10/2012 5:24:26 PM
If one does a poor job of the welding, then yes. If one does a good job then it will be just fine. This is a factory authorized repair, and while I don't know how to translate the European specifications for the weld material from the original Russian and East German manuals, I've had no issue with using ER 308/308L at 75 amps (TIG).
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952melvin
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Posted: 7/11/2012 1:12:12 AM
[Last Edit: 7/11/2012 1:13:44 AM by 952melvin]
So pretty much my option is to take it in to have that done. Also, the piston is loose in the bolt carrier, it wiggles back and forth. Is that a big issue?

In my mind I can picture the issue now, the casing hits that in the wrong area, and it kicks it up into the top cover and it kicks it back into the action creating the jam.
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Posted: 7/11/2012 10:13:37 AM
[Last Edit: 7/11/2012 10:13:50 AM by Gunplumber]
piston is supposed to wiggle - a design feature, not sloppy machining.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 12:38:47 PM
One issue you are over looking is gas piston and or gas port.
Are the spent cases all ejecting approximately the same distance and or direction?
Is the FTE case the only time there is an ejection issue?

I did an AK and had to re adjust the length of the gas piston for better cycling. Most rounds ejected great others would get tossed out rather anemic like. Some never made it past the port. So i removed the rivet, then turned the piston out (in to gas block) 1 full turn, then road tested. Once adjusted the piston to have a fully functioning gun i also put a piece of tape on the rear trunnion, to see how much if any the BC slammed in to it. No issues there and it runs fine.

Another issue if not the piston can be (but i doubt it) the interaction between the BC and Hammer. You could relieve some of the BD (ramp it) so there interaction between BC and Hammer is smoother.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 1:10:42 PM
The piston + carrier overall length is to be in a specific range. If it is not, such as with people using a '74 piston on a 47, one may have problems. But changing the piston length without knowing what it is supposed to be makes no sense to me.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 1:18:23 PM
Originally Posted By 952melvin:
There is a significant gap, about a 16th of an inch, and there is a lot of play with the bolt in that position (end of ejector flush with end of bolt). I take it you fix this by bending the ejector up?

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i282/952melvin/Firearms/DSCF4940.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i282/952melvin/Firearms/DSCF4943.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i282/952melvin/Firearms/DSCF4944.jpg


Yes, take a crescent wrench and bend it up. Problem solved, no welding needed.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 2:41:18 PM
Maybe these will help you. They show the proper bolt/ejector clearance.


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Posted: 7/14/2012 2:57:50 PM
[Last Edit: 7/14/2012 2:58:42 PM by Gunplumber]
where did you get those specs and are they for a 1.0mm receiver?

Mine show 18.7 mm from the opposite side but appear appear to measured from the inside edge of the receiver. Even accounting for a 1.5, I can't get them to equal 34mm.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 3:26:15 PM
I don't recall who originally posted that spec drawing.....it's been awhile. It may have been RForbus. He does some really good CAD work.

yeah, the 34mm really doesn't appear to be right for a 1mm receiver, but that's only off by about .004" per side.

If measurements were taken off a receiver made from slightly off-spec material, that may account for that discrepancy. I really don't know.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 3:27:52 PM
The go/nogo gauge measures from the inside of the receiver on the ejector side. Must pass over, must not pass over.
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Posted: 7/14/2012 3:34:54 PM
Originally Posted By Gunplumber:
The go/nogo gauge measures from the inside of the receiver on the ejector side. Must pass over, must not pass over.


QUE?