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Posted: 5/25/2012 6:39:35 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT What happens is that sometimes when I charge the gun, the carrier doesn't go all the way forward and the round becomes "stuck". The same thing happens on ejection sometimes too. I was firing Tuul 5.45 and it is a Bluejack barrel, I'm not sure which version, but I bought it about 6-7 months ago and it was part of a fresh run. It is from an Rguns kit and built by Troy at In Range, who I am also sending an e-mail to.
underside
Anyone have any idea what the heck is going on? This is an AK variant! Last thing it's supposed to do is jam! |
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Posted: 5/25/2012 11:13:20 PM
[Last Edit: 5/25/2012 11:14:12 PM by orkman]
Angle your Krink downward at a 45 degree angle, open the topcover and remove the recoil spring. If you pull the charging handle until it hits the hammer and then release does it drop into battery freely?
I had problems with my krink jamming and my issue was the bolt carrier was too tight against the carrier rails(?) on the sides of the receiver. I had to file the rails down just a bit and it worked perfect after that. Before you go crazy and file anything down, let us know if the carrier is dropping freely into battery with the top cover up and spring removed. |
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Posted: 5/26/2012 1:44:11 AM
[Last Edit: 5/26/2012 1:46:04 AM by shennanigans]
Well it doesn't seem like it is just tight. In that top picture where the carrier isnt all the way forward...I cant move it forward with hand force or even bumping it on the table at the range. And it doesn't do it every time....I'm pretty dumbfounded actually!
It's weird, the bolt goes flush, but doesn't seem to lock all the way in, while the bolt carrier stops about a half an inch short and will NOT be moved forward. |
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Posted: 5/26/2012 10:38:33 AM
If it will go forward all the way with NO round in the chamber, but won't go all the way (like photo) with a round chambered, it sounds like you have too tight head-space.
DON'T SHOOT IT UNTIL FIXED!!! You may be at risk for an out-of-battery detonation. Short of sending it back to the builder, there are a couple of things you can do. Call the builder FIRST!! Anything you do may VOID your warranty. 1.) Clean off all paint from the trunnion and bolt lug faces. The rifle may have been head-spaced before it was painted, and never checked again afterwards. Let's hope this is the simple solution. 2.) Place rifle vertically between some vise jaws with the front of the trunnion against the jaws. Take a few pennies and put them against the barrel on the chamber end. Take some sort of bar and a BFH and smack the barrel forward. It might not be tight against the barrel pin. 3.) If that doesn't work, you can dress the back of the bolt lugs lightly until you can get the bolt into full lock-up. Use a micrometer or dial indicator vernier to evenly dress the lugs. You know, measure each lug, dress off a .001" or so of each, check operation, and repeat as needed until you get lock-up. Good luck. It's a real bummer to have problems like this right out of the box. |
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Posted: 5/26/2012 1:33:28 PM
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
If it will go forward all the way with NO round in the chamber, but won't go all the way (like photo) with a round chambered, it sounds like you have too tight head-space. DON'T SHOOT IT UNTIL FIXED!!! You may be at risk for an out-of-battery detonation. Short of sending it back to the builder, there are a couple of things you can do. Call the builder FIRST!! Anything you do may VOID your warranty. 1.) Clean off all paint from the trunnion and bolt lug faces. The rifle may have been head-spaced before it was painted, and never checked again afterwards. Let's hope this is the simple solution. 2.) Place rifle vertically between some vise jaws with the front of the trunnion against the jaws. Take a few pennies and put them against the barrel on the chamber end. Take some sort of bar and a BFH and smack the barrel forward. It might not be tight against the barrel pin. 3.) If that doesn't work, you can dress the back of the bolt lugs lightly until you can get the bolt into full lock-up. Use a micrometer or dial indicator vernier to evenly dress the lugs. You know, measure each lug, dress off a .001" or so of each, check operation, and repeat as needed until you get lock-up. Good luck. It's a real bummer to have problems like this right out of the box. Thanks for the info! It doesn't do this every time of even most of the time. Guess I'll have to call the builder. |
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Posted: 5/26/2012 4:27:35 PM
I wanted to post some praise for Troy at In Range. I emailed him late last night and he got back to me this morning saying he would make sure it gets right no matter what. Troy has always been great about responding in a more than timely manner! Great guy.
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Posted: 5/27/2012 7:57:42 AM
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
3.) If that doesn't work, you can dress the back of the bolt lugs lightly until you can get the bolt into full lock-up. Use a micrometer or dial indicator vernier to evenly dress the lugs. You know, measure each lug, dress off a .001" or so of each, check operation, and repeat as needed until you get lock-up. No responsible person ever "dresses" the bolt lugs. The locking surfaces must be perpendicular to the centerline of the bolt in both the horizontal and vertical plane. The locking surfaces must be the same distance from the bolt face. Anyone who believes that they can accomplish this with hand tools is fooling themselves. The only correct way to address a headspace issue is to move the barrel. |
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Posted: 5/27/2012 10:01:48 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
3.) If that doesn't work, you can dress the back of the bolt lugs lightly until you can get the bolt into full lock-up. Use a micrometer or dial indicator vernier to evenly dress the lugs. You know, measure each lug, dress off a .001" or so of each, check operation, and repeat as needed until you get lock-up. No responsible person ever "dresses" the bolt lugs. Really? I suppose all the military armourors deal with bolt replacement in the field by moving the barrel and installing oversize pins? I don't share your opinion. If done carefully, using precise measuring equipment, there should be no problem "dressing" the lugs. I sure don't advocate taking a grinder or mill file to it. |
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Posted: 5/28/2012 8:11:27 AM
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
3.) If that doesn't work, you can dress the back of the bolt lugs lightly until you can get the bolt into full lock-up. Use a micrometer or dial indicator vernier to evenly dress the lugs. You know, measure each lug, dress off a .001" or so of each, check operation, and repeat as needed until you get lock-up. No responsible person ever "dresses" the bolt lugs. Really? I suppose all the military armourors deal with bolt replacement in the field by moving the barrel and installing oversize pins? I don't share your opinion. If done carefully, using precise measuring equipment, there should be no problem "dressing" the lugs. I sure don't advocate taking a grinder or mill file to it. AK bolts aren't replaced "in the field". A rifle with defective headspace is replaced and sent for repair. The organization which repairs those rifles DOES have the equipment necessary to do it properly. There's no way in hell anyone can remove metal from the locking lugs and keep the both surfaces perpendicular to the centerline of the bolt in both planes using hand tools. Get it wrong and one lug (or even worse part of one lug) bears the brunt of the pressure. That leads to that lug wearing faster than the other. In turn that begins another round of problems ... |
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Posted: 5/28/2012 9:07:01 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
3.) If that doesn't work, you can dress the back of the bolt lugs lightly until you can get the bolt into full lock-up. Use a micrometer or dial indicator vernier to evenly dress the lugs. You know, measure each lug, dress off a .001" or so of each, check operation, and repeat as needed until you get lock-up. No responsible person ever "dresses" the bolt lugs. Really? I suppose all the military armourors deal with bolt replacement in the field by moving the barrel and installing oversize pins? I don't share your opinion. If done carefully, using precise measuring equipment, there should be no problem "dressing" the lugs. I sure don't advocate taking a grinder or mill file to it. Get it wrong and one lug (or even worse part of one lug) bears the brunt of the pressure. That leads to that lug wearing faster than the other. In turn that begins another round of problems ... I completely agree with that statement. "Get it wrong" is the key phrase here. Your other statements seem to assume that anyone doing this is incompetent and can't "get it right" and will foul it up with no chance of success. Careful measuring, use of marking dye, careful filing/stoning/honing techniques can result in proper bolt profiling and fitment. It's done everyday by amateur and professional gun builders. Go talk to a few bolt-action rifle builders. If you don't feel comfortable doing this to your own rifle, please don't. Just don't assume the rest of us aren't capable of doing so. I've still got one AK I did this to a couple of years ago, wih several thousand rounds down the pipe, There is absolutely no evidence of damage to either the bolt or trunnion lugs. Guess I just got lucky............ |
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Posted: 5/28/2012 5:29:32 PM
Normally if its a small amount like .050 I'll polish the back lugs first before re drilling the barrel pin..
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Posted: 5/29/2012 1:39:11 AM
Took the Krink out to a buddy's place today. Spent some time last night racking it over and over, and at least today, the rifle fired with zero problems through three mags. No idea what changed, but it looks like a good sign to me!
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Posted: 5/29/2012 8:10:30 AM
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
You keep ignoring and editing out the IMPORTANT parts of the posts. I guess it's easier to "win" that way. Or perhaps you find the important parts too confusing. You may think you're superman and can hold a tool in perfect alignment in two planes. You're wrong. |
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Posted: 5/29/2012 8:31:35 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By boostedAK:
You keep ignoring and editing out the IMPORTANT parts of the posts. I guess it's easier to "win" that way. Or perhaps you find the important parts too confusing. You may think you're superman and can hold a tool in perfect alignment in two planes. You're wrong. There is no "win" here. Or "lose". You have your opinion and I have mine. We should leave it at that. We're obviously not going to convince each other of anything, and there is no need to get into personal attacks. Confused my ass..........How dare you insinuate that to Superman!! Or am I Batman? Or maybe the Lone Ranger? Now I am confused............ ![]() |
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Posted: 5/29/2012 8:36:18 AM
[Last Edit: 5/29/2012 8:40:03 AM by boostedAK]
Hey Shenanigans, Glad your issue is resolved.
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