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AK Sponsor: palmetto
Posted: 4/28/2016 2:41:19 PM EDT
I have a somewhat converted Saiga 5.45 that I am wanting to do a front end conversion to. I stole this pic from another members build since this is exactly what I am wanting. What gas block and front sight block do I need to purchase to build this?  Also I have been reading and it sounds possible to do without a press is that correct?

Link Posted: 4/28/2016 4:32:39 PM EDT
[#1]
That guy is a member here,  but can't remember his name. He only replaced the FSB.

You will need Bulgarian,  Russian,  or East German FSB/GB/handguard retainer for a full conversion. Bulgarian are the easiest to find.

When I did my Saiga AK101 style conversion,  I had to cut off the factory FSB/GB,  they would not come off after drilling out the dimples. If yours do not have dimples,  you may be able to press or hammer them off once the pins are removed.

You can typically do the job with some wood blocks and dead blow mallet. Just make sure to use calipers to check barrel components so you don't get too tight of a fit and end up with a block stuck half way down the journal.
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 5:19:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
That guy is a member here,  but can't remember his name. He only replaced the FSB.

You will need Bulgarian,  Russian,  or East German FSB/GB/handguard retainer for a full conversion. Bulgarian are the easiest to find.

When I did my Saiga AK101 style conversion,  I had to cut off the factory FSB/GB,  they would not come off after drilling out the dimples. If yours do not have dimples,  you may be able to press or hammer them off once the pins are removed.

You can typically do the job with some wood blocks and dead blow mallet. Just make sure to use calipers to check barrel components so you don't get too tight of a fit and end up with a block stuck half way down the journal.
View Quote


Okay thanks for the info. Mine is dimpled and I drilled the dimples out but it will not budge so I will just cut it off. I will start looking for the parts. Now I need to decide if I am going to welded up the extra holes or just put the filler cap in.
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 7:09:27 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
That guy is a member here,  but can't remember his name. He only replaced the FSB.

You will need Bulgarian,  Russian,  or East German FSB/GB/handguard retainer for a full conversion. Bulgarian are the easiest to find.

When I did my Saiga AK101 style conversion,  I had to cut off the factory FSB/GB,  they would not come off after drilling out the dimples. If yours do not have dimples,  you may be able to press or hammer them off once the pins are removed.

You can typically do the job with some wood blocks and dead blow mallet. Just make sure to use calipers to check barrel components so you don't get too tight of a fit and end up with a block stuck half way down the journal.
View Quote


Looks like one of imarangemaster's pics.

Can't help with the conversion info but I would recommend finding a Bulgarian HG retainer, gas block, and FSB with brake to complete the front end.
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 7:51:57 PM EDT
[#4]
I've done this exact conversion using Bulgarian parts. You can do it without a press, it just takes some hammering (make sure you use wood or some softer material for this!) and beating to get the gas block and sight block on. I cut off the factory FSB and GB. Get the barrel in a vise nice and solid, and hammer them on. I made barrel blocks for the vise to give me a better grip and make it impossible to crush the barrel (not sure if it is even possible with a vise). Then I rigged up a system with a laser bore sighter, a laser level, and the rifle level in a bench vise to get everything straight. Drill for pins, and used the vise to press the pins in. Just so you know, every AK I have ever worked on the gas block and sight block has required beating to get it off and on. They don't slip off/on like an AR does. You will also need go make the groove in the top of the barrel for the handguard retainer to lock into place.

For a full conversion from a factory front end you will need:
Handguard Retainer
Gas tube
Gas tube tension spring
Gas block
Front Sight Block
Muzzle Brake
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 11:04:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I've done this exact conversion using Bulgarian parts. You can do it without a press, it just takes some hammering (make sure you use wood or some softer material for this!) and beating to get the gas block and sight block on. I cut off the factory FSB and GB. Get the barrel in a vise nice and solid, and hammer them on. I made barrel blocks for the vise to give me a better grip and make it impossible to crush the barrel (not sure if it is even possible with a vise). Then I rigged up a system with a laser bore sighter, a laser level, and the rifle level in a bench vise to get everything straight. Drill for pins, and used the vise to press the pins in. Just so you know, every AK I have ever worked on the gas block and sight block has required beating to get it off and on. They don't slip off/on like an AR does. You will also need go make the groove in the top of the barrel for the handguard retainer to lock into place.

For a full conversion from a factory front end you will need:
Handguard Retainer
Gas tube
Gas tube tension spring
Gas block
Front Sight Block
Muzzle Brake
View Quote


And there is another important piece here.. You should check to see if your barrel has the side slots for the HG retainer. Some Saigas have them, some don't - but from that I've seen all of the 5.45 models have them. If they're missing, it's just another step you'll have to do by hand, and these slots are milled out lengthwise with a squared profile, so they're sort of hard to get precise by hand tools.

As for making the HG latch pin channel, it's pretty easy using a jeweler's file set, which is how I did mine on my Saiga .223. You install your handguard, slide the retainer into place, and get it snug. Then score the barrel at the front of the HG retainer to mark its most forward position - I used a razor blade and swiped side to side to make a nice visible straight mark for measurement, and it will disappear once you paint the rifle..

Now remove the HG retainer, and use a caliper or other precise measurement tool to measure the distance from the front of the HG retainer to the center of the locking pin. Now, using that measurement, measure back from your score mark on the barrel, and make another mark. This represents where the centerline of the latch pin channel should be on the barrel, and is the position where you want to begin filing - that is, the very center of your jeweler's file, not the edge of it.

Place your round file's center here and slowly & carefully swipe side to side, checking back ever so often by reinstalling the HG and latching it into place. I prefer mine to be tight enough that the cleaning kit tool is required to lock the lever into place, and it will gradually loosen on its own over time.

I also recommend using a polymer AK-74 type handguard to fit your HG, as the wood HGs are often varied sizes and depend on a tension spring to get tight fit. If you use a wood HG to fit the HG retainer, you may have difficulty installing standard polymer AK handguards later on.

Best luck.. Converting a Saiga is definitely not as economical as it used to be when you could get the base rifle for $250ish and then a complete Bulgarian parts kit for $100. I should have bought more of both. Now just the FSB + muzzle device will run you over $100 alone.

Link Posted: 4/29/2016 7:14:35 AM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 8:47:00 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
I've done this exact conversion using Bulgarian parts. You can do it without a press, it just takes some hammering (make sure you use wood or some softer material for this!) and beating to get the gas block and sight block on. I cut off the factory FSB and GB. Get the barrel in a vise nice and solid, and hammer them on. I made barrel blocks for the vise to give me a better grip and make it impossible to crush the barrel (not sure if it is even possible with a vise). Then I rigged up a system with a laser bore sighter, a laser level, and the rifle level in a bench vise to get everything straight. Drill for pins, and used the vise to press the pins in. Just so you know, every AK I have ever worked on the gas block and sight block has required beating to get it off and on. They don't slip off/on like an AR does. You will also need go make the groove in the top of the barrel for the handguard retainer to lock into place.

For a full conversion from a factory front end you will need:
Handguard Retainer
Gas tube
Gas tube tension spring
Gas block
Front Sight Block
Muzzle Brake
View Quote


Thanks for the list of parts I have been looking for a complete list that said what all was needed for 2 weeks.


Quoted:
Quoted:
I've done this exact conversion using Bulgarian parts. You can do it without a press, it just takes some hammering (make sure you use wood or some softer material for this!) and beating to get the gas block and sight block on. I cut off the factory FSB and GB. Get the barrel in a vise nice and solid, and hammer them on. I made barrel blocks for the vise to give me a better grip and make it impossible to crush the barrel (not sure if it is even possible with a vise). Then I rigged up a system with a laser bore sighter, a laser level, and the rifle level in a bench vise to get everything straight. Drill for pins, and used the vise to press the pins in. Just so you know, every AK I have ever worked on the gas block and sight block has required beating to get it off and on. They don't slip off/on like an AR does. You will also need go make the groove in the top of the barrel for the handguard retainer to lock into place.

For a full conversion from a factory front end you will need:
Handguard Retainer
Gas tube
Gas tube tension spring
Gas block
Front Sight Block
Muzzle Brake
View Quote


And there is another important piece here.. You should check to see if your barrel has the side slots for the HG retainer. Some Saigas have them, some don't - but from that I've seen all of the 5.45 models have them. If they're missing, it's just another step you'll have to do by hand, and these slots are milled out lengthwise with a squared profile, so they're sort of hard to get precise by hand tools.

As for making the HG latch pin channel, it's pretty easy using a jeweler's file set, which is how I did mine on my Saiga .223. You install your handguard, slide the retainer into place, and get it snug. Then score the barrel at the front of the HG retainer to mark its most forward position - I used a razor blade and swiped side to side to make a nice visible straight mark for measurement, and it will disappear once you paint the rifle..

Now remove the HG retainer, and use a caliper or other precise measurement tool to measure the distance from the front of the HG retainer to the center of the locking pin. Now, using that measurement, measure back from your score mark on the barrel, and make another mark. This represents where the centerline of the latch pin channel should be on the barrel, and is the position where you want to begin filing - that is, the very center of your jeweler's file, not the edge of it.

Place your round file's center here and slowly & carefully swipe side to side, checking back ever so often by reinstalling the HG and latching it into place. I prefer mine to be tight enough that the cleaning kit tool is required to lock the lever into place, and it will gradually loosen on its own over time.

I also recommend using a polymer AK-74 type handguard to fit your HG, as the wood HGs are often varied sizes and depend on a tension spring to get tight fit. If you use a wood HG to fit the HG retainer, you may have difficulty installing standard polymer AK handguards later on.

Best luck.. Converting a Saiga is definitely not as economical as it used to be when you could get the base rifle for $250ish and then a complete Bulgarian parts kit for $100. I should have bought more of both. Now just the FSB + muzzle device will run you over $100 alone.

http://i.imgur.com/8eJL47Q.jpg
View Quote


Luckily I got my Saiga when they cost around $300. I noticed the parts have gone up a lot on conversion parts. I will just take my time and hopefully find some used if not may just get the parts at Robert RTG. I will check on the barrel cuts when  I get off work tonight, my friend has a mill so may just have him do the cuts. If not I am pretty handy with a file.

I plan on using the plum polymer furniture if I can find it, if not I will just you black polymer. I already have 4 ak's and they are all wood so its time to try something different while retaining the original look.


Quoted:
here's a tutorial I wrote up some time ago.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_4_64/152759_SAIGA_full_conversion_tutorial.html
View Quote



And that is why I love this place.


Thank you all for the information I will keep this thread updated as I make progress on this conversion.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 10:22:22 AM EDT
[#8]
Is $170 a good price for
Bulgarian parts
Hand guard Retainer
Gas block
Front Sight Block
Muzzle Brake
Rear Sight Base & Leaf AK kit

Or should i try and find a parts kit with plum furniture and then sell any parts I don't use?
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 7:24:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I've done this exact conversion using Bulgarian parts. You can do it without a press, it just takes some hammering (make sure you use wood or some softer material for this!) and beating to get the gas block and sight block on. I cut off the factory FSB and GB. Get the barrel in a vise nice and solid, and hammer them on. I made barrel blocks for the vise to give me a better grip and make it impossible to crush the barrel (not sure if it is even possible with a vise). Then I rigged up a system with a laser bore sighter, a laser level, and the rifle level in a bench vise to get everything straight. Drill for pins, and used the vise to press the pins in. Just so you know, every AK I have ever worked on the gas block and sight block has required beating to get it off and on. They don't slip off/on like an AR does. You will also need go make the groove in the top of the barrel for the handguard retainer to lock into place.

For a full conversion from a factory front end you will need:
Handguard Retainer
Gas tube
Gas tube tension spring
Gas block
Front Sight Block
Muzzle Brake
View Quote


Got lucky and mine already has the slots cut.  I also got the gas block and FSB cut off today. Should have all the parts in green by the end of next week. Now I need to track down a plum stock set.
Link Posted: 5/1/2016 11:48:41 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Now I need to track down a plum stock set.
View Quote


US or Soviet?

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AKPSW.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AKRPSW.html


Good luck on your conversion. I've done a bunch of Saiga's for myself and friends, and did my S12 pistol grip conversion my self. It's a rewarding feeling.
Follow Nictra's tutorial. He's done more than anyone I personally know and his work comes out great



Z
Link Posted: 5/1/2016 11:10:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


US or Soviet?

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AKPSW.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AKRPSW.html


Good luck on your conversion. I've done a bunch of Saiga's for myself and friends, and did my S12 pistol grip conversion my self. It's a rewarding feeling.
Follow Nictra's tutorial. He's done more than anyone I personally know and his work comes out great



Z
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Now I need to track down a plum stock set.


US or Soviet?

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AKPSW.html

http://www.k-var.com/shop/AKRPSW.html


Good luck on your conversion. I've done a bunch of Saiga's for myself and friends, and did my S12 pistol grip conversion my self. It's a rewarding feeling.
Follow Nictra's tutorial. He's done more than anyone I personally know and his work comes out great



Z


Just got one today for $60 on eBay coming from the Federation of Russia so it will take a bit to get. I am wanting to do a S12 here soon but have been thinking maybe a Vepr 12 and SBS it.
Link Posted: 5/2/2016 2:45:02 AM EDT
[#12]
Vepr is definitely the way to go. I had my S12 for many years before the Vepr 12s came in and could instantly see the Vepr 12 is much better quality




Z
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