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Posted: 12/17/2014 12:56:59 AM EDT
[#1]
Please help I am in the middle of the front end conversion and am stopped until i figure out how to get this damn pin out (the rear pin on fsb)
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Posted: 12/17/2014 9:15:13 AM EDT
[#2]
you will need a shop press to remove the pins if they are that tight, you will also need a shop press to remove the FSB
ETA: see this thread for FSB removal, it's about removal of a mak90 FSB but same idea. link |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 9:17:02 AM EDT
[#3]
You just have to keep at it. It will eventually come out. You can try from the other side too, but I'm sure you have already done that. All else fails, drop some penetrating oil on it and let it sit. That might help.
I have had one or 2 over the years that just would not budge until I cut the fsb off. If you go this route with a dremel, go slow so as to not cut into the barrel. I ran a line from front of site block to rear, in line with barrel.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 9:39:38 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You just have to keep at it. It will eventually come out. You can try from the other side too, but I'm sure you have already done that. All else fails, drop some penetrating oil on it and let it sit. That might help. I have had one or 2 over the years that just would not budge until I cut the fsb off. If you go this route with a dremel, go slow so as to not cut into the barrel. I ran a line from front of site block to rear, in line with barrel. |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 10:57:54 AM EDT
[#5]
Make sure everything is fully supported, and clamp it all down to a solid table to keep it from bouncing around. Use a thick punch tapered to a point, and smack with a bfh. I've never had one that couldn't be popped out once everything is fully secured and supported. |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 2:46:24 PM EDT
[#6]
i used a 5/8 thick peice of ply wood to put the front sight on and a rag on my wooden floor in shed and placed receiver on rag that way it was pretty level. i only hit the rear pin but pretty hard, i could of hit harder. could his damage the receiver bouncing on the rag or bend the barrel from hitting the pin? im sorry that is some dumb shit questions but i am just curious.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:01:04 PM EDT
[#7]
VERY IMPORTANT: put the whole thing in the freezer for a few hours before trying to move pins, soak first with penetrating oil.
Cold contracts metal, heat expands it. Freeze it and they'll move unless they are just so rust-welded in they need to be cut. |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:23:23 PM EDT
[#8]
Are you using and lubricant, WD-40 or PB blaster? personally I recomend kroil for this type of job,it's expensive as hell but REALLY works.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:27:39 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i used a 5/8 thick peice of ply wood to put the front sight on and a rag on my wooden floor in shed and placed receiver on rag that way it was pretty level. i only hit the rear pin but pretty hard, i could of hit harder. could his damage the receiver bouncing on the rag or bend the barrel from hitting the pin? im sorry that is some dumb shit questions but i am just curious. Support it in front and behind where you're hitting. Then clamp the whole thing down so it can't move. I've got a bunch of C clamps from Harbor Frieght that I bought for stuff like this. You just have to support everything so you don't bend the barrel. ETA, the freezer trick usually works pretty good for the bigger components, such as a tight FSB, trunnion, or gas block. I haven't had much luck getting the freezer to make a noticeable difference on those 3mm pins. |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:29:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Find someone local to you with a 12-ton shop press and just press it out. Less likely to damage anything. Just make sure the FSB is properly supported so that the force of the press is on the pin and not the barrel or FSB. Even the most stubborn pins tend to slide out with 12T of steady pressure on them.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:33:05 PM EDT
[#11]
I had to drill one out a while ago. It would not come out. Just used a bit smaller in diameter then the pin and drilled through the center of the pin. The remains of the pin tapped out easily after that. Just be sure to drill straight and not go into the barrel.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:38:08 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I had to drill one out a while ago. It would not come out. Just used a bit smaller in diameter then the pin and drilled through the center of the pin. The remains of the pin tapped out easily after that. Just be sure to drill straight and not go into the barrel. |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:45:32 PM EDT
[#13]
I was planning on using the same pin
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Posted: 12/17/2014 3:56:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Support it in front and behind where you're hitting. Then clamp the whole thing down so it can't move. I've got a bunch of C clamps from Harbor Frieght that I bought for stuff like this. You just have to support everything so you don't bend the barrel. ETA, the freezer trick usually works pretty good for the bigger components, such as a tight FSB, trunnion, or gas block. I haven't had much luck getting the freezer to make a noticeable difference on those 3mm pins. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
i used a 5/8 thick peice of ply wood to put the front sight on and a rag on my wooden floor in shed and placed receiver on rag that way it was pretty level. i only hit the rear pin but pretty hard, i could of hit harder. could his damage the receiver bouncing on the rag or bend the barrel from hitting the pin? im sorry that is some dumb shit questions but i am just curious. Support it in front and behind where you're hitting. Then clamp the whole thing down so it can't move. I've got a bunch of C clamps from Harbor Frieght that I bought for stuff like this. You just have to support everything so you don't bend the barrel. ETA, the freezer trick usually works pretty good for the bigger components, such as a tight FSB, trunnion, or gas block. I haven't had much luck getting the freezer to make a noticeable difference on those 3mm pins. I just hit the pin only and the rifle was supported. if you were to lay urs on the ground theres about the 5/8 thickness of space between the floor and the fsb. so thats what i used then just put a rag under the receiver so it wouldnt scratch. do you think its possible to bend the barrel by hitting out one of those pins with a hammer? I wasn't hitting it as hard as I could either |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 4:22:47 PM EDT
[#15]
I've never bent a barrel when using a punch and hammer. Never bent a barrel ever, but definitely not with a hammer and punch.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 4:49:23 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just hit the pin only and the rifle was supported. if you were to lay urs on the ground theres about the 5/8 thickness of space between the floor and the fsb. so thats what i used then just put a rag under the receiver so it wouldnt scratch. do you think its possible to bend the barrel by hitting out one of those pins with a hammer? I wasn't hitting it as hard as I could either Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
i used a 5/8 thick peice of ply wood to put the front sight on and a rag on my wooden floor in shed and placed receiver on rag that way it was pretty level. i only hit the rear pin but pretty hard, i could of hit harder. could his damage the receiver bouncing on the rag or bend the barrel from hitting the pin? im sorry that is some dumb shit questions but i am just curious. Support it in front and behind where you're hitting. Then clamp the whole thing down so it can't move. I've got a bunch of C clamps from Harbor Frieght that I bought for stuff like this. You just have to support everything so you don't bend the barrel. ETA, the freezer trick usually works pretty good for the bigger components, such as a tight FSB, trunnion, or gas block. I haven't had much luck getting the freezer to make a noticeable difference on those 3mm pins. I just hit the pin only and the rifle was supported. if you were to lay urs on the ground theres about the 5/8 thickness of space between the floor and the fsb. so thats what i used then just put a rag under the receiver so it wouldnt scratch. do you think its possible to bend the barrel by hitting out one of those pins with a hammer? I wasn't hitting it as hard as I could either I think if you support the barrel at one location and have the reciever clamped down, you could. I would recommend supporting the barrel right behind the FSB, and right in front of it. Doesn't have to be anything fancy. I've stuck a couple crescent wrenches under there as supports. Just needs to be something solid to transfer the loading of the strike to your firm work surface. |
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Posted: 12/17/2014 6:09:35 PM EDT
[#17]
The entire gun was lying on plywood so it was flat. rag under the receiver, plywood under fsb to make it flat then i hit the punch a couple times on the rear pin of fsb.
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Posted: 12/17/2014 6:40:19 PM EDT
[#18]
If your using a punch...stop now. Get a nail set for this task. It will come out pretty easily.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:45:23 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted: So I was able to get the front pin off the front sight block on my saiga 545 they are not dimpled just pinned. the rear pin i cannot get to budge and i dont want to mess anything up by beating on the pin. these are tough rifles so i have the rifle supported wear on the front sight is taking the bearing force. should i just hit it harder or what. will i damge the barrel but hitting this pin. Damage anything; ya right these are aks..dumb question but I am new and I appriciate anyones time to help me. Heat gun help? Edit to remove curse words in thread title. Site owner does not want a google search for curse words to lead to his (this) site. If you want to curse in a post, take it to GD or the Pit. This is a technical forum, so keep language here family friendly. dryflash3 |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 10:48:30 AM EDT
[#20]
Liquid wrench and heat gun and the right sized punch. Brace the FSB against a block and wack it from left to right, looking from the rear. If it won't come out you can always cut the block. It's worthless anyway. Putting the rifle in the freezer and heating the new FSB in the oven to 400 degrees is helpful in getting the new block on. I don't know about feezing the rifle to get the old block off, seems counter intuitive.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 11:19:25 AM EDT
[#21]
Ok I am sorry but my original quewtion was never answered.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 11:21:18 AM EDT
[#22]
About bending anything in the way that i did it
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Posted: 12/18/2014 11:37:51 AM EDT
[#23]
I doubt you will bend anything. AKs are pretty stout and have a lot of flex in them when being fired anyway. Just think before you act, and you should be gtg.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 11:37:51 AM EDT
[#24]
Chances of you bending a barrel with a hammer and punch seem almost impossible.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:41:38 PM EDT
[#25]
Ok sounds good.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:34:24 PM EDT
[#26]
Let me get this straight. You're doing this on the floor of your shed? It's probably not supported completely so you're losing energy as you hit the pins. If you're taking the time to punch it out rather than cutting, it's worth it to do it right.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 4:01:07 PM EDT
[#27]
OP, you seem familiar.
 Don't do that in this technical forum. This is not GD. dryflash3
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Posted: 12/18/2014 4:42:23 PM EDT
[#28]
We got a naked barrel yet?
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Posted: 12/18/2014 5:09:10 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You just have to keep at it. It will eventually come out. You can try from the other side too, but I'm sure you have already done that. All else fails, drop some penetrating oil on it and let it sit. That might help. I have had one or 2 over the years that just would not budge until I cut the fsb off. If you go this route with a dremel, go slow so as to not cut into the barrel. I ran a line from front of site block to rear, in line with barrel. This, the A2 sight pins on my S&W MP15 took FOREVER to get out. I had the barrel clamped down to my workbench with my 'custom' barrel vise, and beat the hell out of the pins until they came out. Took a steal punch and 2# hammer to finally pop them out. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 4:38:23 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This, the A2 sight pins on my S&W MP15 took FOREVER to get out. I had the barrel clamped down to my workbench with my 'custom' barrel vise, and beat the hell out of the pins until they came out. Took a steal punch and 2# hammer to finally pop them out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You just have to keep at it. It will eventually come out. You can try from the other side too, but I'm sure you have already done that. All else fails, drop some penetrating oil on it and let it sit. That might help. I have had one or 2 over the years that just would not budge until I cut the fsb off. If you go this route with a dremel, go slow so as to not cut into the barrel. I ran a line from front of site block to rear, in line with barrel. This, the A2 sight pins on my S&W MP15 took FOREVER to get out. I had the barrel clamped down to my workbench with my 'custom' barrel vise, and beat the hell out of the pins until they came out. Took a steal punch and 2# hammer to finally pop them out. Funny you should mention the MP15. Had a conversation with a local gunsmith and he mentioned that S&W puts their pins in from the opposite side. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 9:08:57 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Funny you should mention the MP15. Had a conversation with a local gunsmith and he mentioned that S&W puts their pins in from the opposite side. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You just have to keep at it. It will eventually come out. You can try from the other side too, but I'm sure you have already done that. All else fails, drop some penetrating oil on it and let it sit. That might help. I have had one or 2 over the years that just would not budge until I cut the fsb off. If you go this route with a dremel, go slow so as to not cut into the barrel. I ran a line from front of site block to rear, in line with barrel. This, the A2 sight pins on my S&W MP15 took FOREVER to get out. I had the barrel clamped down to my workbench with my 'custom' barrel vise, and beat the hell out of the pins until they came out. Took a steal punch and 2# hammer to finally pop them out. Funny you should mention the MP15. Had a conversation with a local gunsmith and he mentioned that S&W puts their pins in from the opposite side. Yes, Yes they do  
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Posted: 12/19/2014 5:33:39 PM EDT
[#32]
I would like to apologize to you all and dryflash. sorry for the language. and i test fired it yestarday no bent barrel.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 6:12:44 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I would like to apologize to you all and dryflash. sorry for the language. and i test fired it yestarday no bent barrel. pics man!!! |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 10:54:57 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I would like to apologize to you all and dryflash. sorry for the language. and i test fired it yestarday no bent barrel. Apology accepted, lesson learned, we move on.
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Posted: 12/20/2014 2:19:36 AM EDT
[#35]
I never got the pin out I just gave up. I wanna do it right and I want some instructions on how to do it without a press. Please help, I would be so happy to get this front end conversion done. Thank you.
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Posted: 12/20/2014 11:28:56 AM EDT
[#36]
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_4_64/152759_SAIGA_full_conversion_tutorial.html
just looked that over again and it won't really help too much. That rifle had the dimpled GB and FSB. I have multiple punches. I have a stout tapperd punch that use to start the pin. Once it gets moving I use the smaller punch that will push it all the way through. |
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Posted: 12/20/2014 4:44:22 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I never got the pin out I just gave up. I wanna do it right and I want some instructions on how to do it without a press. Please help, I would be so happy to get this front end conversion done. Thank you. Did you try freezing it? I'm telling you, i've done 3 this year alone, and not had a bit of trouble with any of them. As far as what to rest the barrel/FSB on while you tap pins, a used hockey puck with a hole drilled in the middle works great, and you won't leave any scars. They sell them used cheap on eBay, I use them on 4-wheel drives to replace worn out body mounts so I always have a few laying around. I've never even had to clamp a rifle in a vise to get the pins out, they slide right out. And most of the time if well-frozen, the FSB moves pretty easily too. |
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Posted: 12/21/2014 1:40:11 AM EDT
[#38]
Ok so I have all my punches and tools and stuff. I got all the pins out, now without using a press can i use a 2x4 block of wood and a hammer to beat of the front sight and gas blco? once they are off and I am putting on the new gas block and fsb, can i adjust them if they arent straight. do i put the receiver in a vice to beat on and off the sight and gas block? what is the best and safest way to do this
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Posted: 12/21/2014 12:12:32 PM EDT
[#39]
yes you can. When reinstalling, I usually just hold the receiver. You can use grease, oil, CLP, or even anti-seize to keep the parts from sticking. I use a rubber mallet to align everything after installed. Usually little taps at a time. You can check my tutorial I linked earlier to see hoe I did mine.
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