Anyone else ever have a problem with the factory arsenal 2 stage trigger not resetting?

I ran 60 rounds through a new SLR104 over the weekend. I had to manually flick the trigger forward on 3 separate occasions. I was shooting from a bench for accuracy to sight in an aimpoint. I tried to recreate this with the Bolt and carrier out of the rifle but was not able to.

I prefer the Tapco G2 so the Arsenal was likely going to get swapped out anyways.

Most common cause for failure to reset is that the right arm of the trigger spring is off.  This is usually caused by installing the selector lever last, and as it pivots downward, it swipes the spring off the trigger.

The stupid bump that arsenal puts on the trigger claw and hammer to make it a so-called "two-stage" has no affect on reset.  

Simply stoning off these bumps makes for a very nice trigger pull, without the dangers of hammer follow and doubling that are so typical of the G2.  But I'll be happy to trade you a G2 for an Arsenal, if you'd like.  E-mail me.

A polished Arsenal 2 Stage is my preferred trigger on a DMR-type rifle.  Nothing but good things to say about them after some polishing.

For precision work, they are my go-to trigger.

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Do you remove the second stage when polishing or leave it intact?

A true two stage uses the disconnector spring.

In the first stage, the trigger claw moves forward, which also makes the disconnector move forward.  When the disconnector touches the back of the hammer, the disconnector spring adds to the trigger spring.  So you have a slight stop, where a slight increase in pressure will overpower the increased tension of the disconnector spring and release.

In most US triggers, and many AKM triggers, the hammer releases before the disconnector ever touches.  So there is no second stage - just a long and hopefully smooth single stage.

Arsenal put a burr on the trigger and hammer that binds right before release.  Increasing the trigger pull dramatically will override this burr.  That's what Arsenal calls 2 stage.  And is teh sux.

It has been done well.  On the PSL, there is a slight divot on the hammer right before release, which allows the trigger to be held 3/4 of the way through the pull, and then a slight increase in tension to finish it. But this divot is the opposite of K-Var's speed bump.  And maybe speed bump is a good analogy.  Compare driving over a rain gutter/channel in the road compared to going over a speed bump.

I also removed the wart from the Arsenal hammer. It was good to go. Failure to reset is usually the spring arm falling off as mentioned.

I had the same problem with my 104 so the first thing I checked was the spring but it was fine.  I polished it up a little and seems better but I have not had a chance to take it to the range.

I'm one of the few that actually prefer the 2 stage trigger and I hadn't had a problem with it until now.

I took my SLR107FR to the range this past weekend and had to flick the trigger forward at least 4 or 5 times to get it to reset. I don't get it, nothing changed, I already had about 400 rounds through it with zero issues and it just started out of nowhere.

I'm likely going to be ordering a tapco G2 as much as I don't want to...

I had this happen on my SGL21.  Swapped it out with a Tapco and was done with it.

The ONLY time I have ever heard someone say that and agree

Again - I'll buy all those Arsenal groups ya'll hate so much.  I'll pay $25 delivered.

I must have got a good one because i love it on my SGL-21

My 09 SGL31 has had no problems and it has been through over 1k of 7n6.

I also have not noticed the problem with a 2011 SLR107CR, but I have mostly shot it when it is cold out.

Anyways I did check the hammer spring and both sides were on the trigger properly. Ill get some more rounds through it before I get out the dremel.

Interested in the Arsenal 2 stage trigger set that goes with this disconnector?

I think you took the dremel to the wrong part.... haha

Details on how that happened?

Wow - haven't seen that before. Looks like a fracture, not a cut.
 At least that doesn't prevent it from working in semiauto.

 I have a few TAPCOs with stuff like the disconnecter spring hole absent, drilled too deep, or other flaws that make them unserviceable.

Arsenal SAM7 hammer posted on another forum around early 2008.  "MIM" parts.   I remember similar posts around that era about their FCG parts, but haven't heard about those types of problems in a long time.  

When I first got my SLR-107 with the 2 stage trigger, it felt like it was dragging against "sand and tiny rocks" inside the FCG....I was PISSED and it literally would get mildly stuck when trying to go back forward.

So I literally sat down and Quickly "finger banged" the first stage as close as I could go to the hammer without the hammer dropping (Im talking pullin it fast, about 100 times a minute and once smoother, worked my way closer to the hammer hump to make it rub it without letting the hammer drop) and now I've never even fired it and its smooth as butter and has a much thinner "Wall" type feel on the final stage feel, then breaks like a candy cane..

I HAAAATED the trigger at first and sent a hateful letter to "Arsenal" but once the trigger claw and hammer polished each other just by me pulling the Trigger Creep real fast while watching TV, its now the best/ most predictable AK trigger I've ever felt. I LOVE IT

Theres a reason people are wanting to buy these from you!! The Tapco G2 is smooth, but "unpredictable"... With the Arsenal 2-stage trigger, you can pull the slack out of trigger until it hits that little stopping point, then when ready to fire, BANG!! No Creep

A "G2" FCG is like a Glock Trigger, you can never quite learn exactly when its gonna go drop and fire.

I have yet to find an AK trigger that I actually like.

I have a highly polished G2.. yeah it's super smooth and light.  Just isn't predictable.  Don't care for it.

Polished up the factory trigger in the SLR104UR.  It still sucks.

I'm tempted to try to design my own FCG sometime.  I'd try to make something that feels like an AR trigger.  Shouldn't be difficult.

I've had problems with them to. The casting seem left a burr on the hammer where the disconnecter contacts the hammer and wouldn't released the hammer. I smoothed the contact area out and cleared the back tab on the disconnecter to clear the grip reinforcing plate. It's helped a lot if not totality fix the problem I removed the two stage all sow..