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 Rocksarge 
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Joined: Oct 2006  FL, USA
 Posts: 13755 Feedback: 100% (81) |
Posted: 6/25/2011 4:06:51 PM
[Last Edit: 7/19/2011 3:50:01 AM by Rocksarge]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Posted: 6/26/2011 12:19:50 PM
Bump with update.
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JCKnife
Tracer bullet shows where the zing sizzles!
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Joined: Jan 2001 KY, USA
Posts: 11207 Feedback: 100% (58) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/26/2011 1:09:52 PM
Go to theakforum.net and find loner42. He does excellent work.
Oh, heck, here you go: http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=131494&hilit=barrel |
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AEnemaBay
2111 - USMC
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Joined: Jan 2007 MO, USA
Posts: 1813 Feedback: 100% (39) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/26/2011 1:53:05 PM
Originally Posted By JCKnife:
Go to theakforum.net and find loner42. He does excellent work. Oh, heck, here you go: http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=131494&hilit=barrel +1 for loner42! You'll have to talk to him on the phone since he doesn't like doing the email thing but he's a great guy with good prices and does amazing work. |
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
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Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
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Posted: 6/26/2011 2:12:46 PM
[Last Edit: 6/26/2011 2:20:08 PM by PreemptiveStrike]
Threading the barrel is incredibly easy to do. There are also videos on youtube showing how to crown and I can't imagine cutting would be hard either if you're just talking about cleaning up the end of the barrel. If you're talking about shortening it significantly then you'd have to move the sight/gas blocks which is much more involved.
What do you have for a rifle and what are you trying to do with it? |
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Posted: 6/26/2011 2:28:23 PM
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike: Threading the barrel is incredibly easy to do. There are also videos on youtube showing how to crown and I can't imagine cutting would be hard either if you're just talking about cleaning up the end of the barrel. If you're talking about shortening it significantly then you'd have to move the sight/gas blocks which is much more involved. What do you have for a rifle and what are you trying to do with it? Just bought a WASR-3 and want to attach an AAC Blackout mount. 1/2x28 threading. |
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Posted: 6/26/2011 2:33:31 PM
I think I'll do it myself.
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AEnemaBay
2111 - USMC
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Joined: Jan 2007 MO, USA
Posts: 1814 Feedback: 100% (39) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/26/2011 2:59:58 PM
If you're doing it for use with a suppressor I would highly suggest that someone reliable do it so that they can be sure that the threads are concentric with the bore. If it's just to mount the AAC adapter then yeah, I would definitely do it myself.
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
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Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
Posts: 1506 Feedback: 100% (30) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/26/2011 3:49:00 PM
[Last Edit: 6/26/2011 3:49:36 PM by PreemptiveStrike]
Originally Posted By Rocksarge:
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Threading the barrel is incredibly easy to do. There are also videos on youtube showing how to crown and I can't imagine cutting would be hard either if you're just talking about cleaning up the end of the barrel. If you're talking about shortening it significantly then you'd have to move the sight/gas blocks which is much more involved. What do you have for a rifle and what are you trying to do with it? Just bought a WASR-3 and want to attach an AAC Blackout mount. 1/2x28 threading. I was going to offer to let you borrrow the tools but the stuff I have is for 1x14 LH. You should be able to buy the tools online for $50-60 or find somebody here that will loan you the stuff. Threading the barrel is very easy to do just make sure you use a thread alignment tool (TAT). Having the SAR will make the job even easier as your FSB should already have a hole to install the spring loaded detent pin. You will have to knock out the front pin at the base of the FSB, install the detent spring and pin, then reinstall the FSB pin. Thread the barrel BEFORE you install the detent pin so it's not in the way. You can thread it with the detent pin in place but it's just easier to thread the barrel before you install the detent pin. 
Here is the final result, notice the threads go all the way to the FSB. 
Here is the die with the TAT in place. 
If you have any questions or need help shoot me an IM. |
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Posted: 6/27/2011 5:01:42 AM
Presumptive Strike:
"notice the threads go all the way to the FSB"
Good job! How do you go about getting the threads to run right up to the sight block? Any special technique? |
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
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Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
Posts: 1507 Feedback: 100% (30) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/27/2011 6:16:38 AM
[Last Edit: 6/27/2011 6:24:13 AM by PreemptiveStrike]
Originally Posted By Escape_from_NY:
Presumptive Strike: "notice the threads go all the way to the FSB"
Good job! How do you go about getting the threads to run right up to the sight block? Any special technique? I just set the die in the handle like it's shown in the pic so it's all even and not recessed. That allowed me to cut the threads right to the FSB. You have to remove the TAT out the back of the die so it doesn't bottom out on the TAT once you get a few threads started, if you don't you could mess the threads up. I learned that the hard way. When I first started cutting the threads I didn't have the TAT set very deep at all and it bottomed out once I got the first thread or 2cut. I damaged the first 1-2mm of threads and ended up removing them. Lesson learned, set the TAT deep in the die and remove it out the back once a few threads are cut. Also use plenty of lube and I backed off every half turn to allow the excess later al to fall out of the newly cut threads. |
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Posted: 6/29/2011 6:17:00 PM
[Last Edit: 6/29/2011 6:17:46 PM by TurnAndCough]
IM'ed Preemptive a bit earlier, thanks for the help. Not to hijack(but sorta to hijack). Does anyone have a recommendation of where to buy a detent and spring? I thought for certain KVAR would have them, but I wasn’t able to find it anywhere on their site. Do they use another name for it?
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Liquidmetal
Member
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Joined: Jun 2007 USA
Posts: 4494 Feedback: 100% (16) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/29/2011 6:23:46 PM
Originally Posted By TurnAndCough: IM'ed Preemptive a bit earlier, thanks for the help. Not to hijack(but sorta to hijack). Does anyone have a recommendation of where to buy a detent and spring? I thought for certain KVAR would have them, but I wasn’t able to find it anywhere on their site. Do they use another name for it? http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=156 CNC Warrior is great to do business with. |
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Posted: 6/29/2011 6:25:22 PM
Originally Posted By Liquidmetal:
Originally Posted By TurnAndCough:
IM'ed Preemptive a bit earlier, thanks for the help. Not to hijack(but sorta to hijack). Does anyone have a recommendation of where to buy a detent and spring? I thought for certain KVAR would have them, but I wasn’t able to find it anywhere on their site. Do they use another name for it? http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=156 CNC Warrior is great to do business with. Wow, thanks Liquid.. that was fast. /Hijack |
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
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Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
Posts: 1513 Feedback: 100% (30) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/29/2011 7:33:13 PM
[Last Edit: 6/29/2011 7:34:19 PM by PreemptiveStrike]
Originally Posted By TurnAndCough:
Originally Posted By Liquidmetal:
Originally Posted By TurnAndCough:
IM'ed Preemptive a bit earlier, thanks for the help. Not to hijack(but sorta to hijack). Does anyone have a recommendation of where to buy a detent and spring? I thought for certain KVAR would have them, but I wasn’t able to find it anywhere on their site. Do they use another name for it? http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=156 CNC Warrior is great to do business with. Wow, thanks Liquid.. that was fast. /Hijack You can also try Desert fox sales that's where I got mine from if CNC doesn't have them. I ordered the die and handle from Victor machine exchange and finally theres Carolina shooters supply |
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Posted: 6/29/2011 9:42:08 PM
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Originally Posted By Rocksarge:
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Threading the barrel is incredibly easy to do. There are also videos on youtube showing how to crown and I can't imagine cutting would be hard either if you're just talking about cleaning up the end of the barrel. If you're talking about shortening it significantly then you'd have to move the sight/gas blocks which is much more involved. What do you have for a rifle and what are you trying to do with it? Just bought a WASR-3 and want to attach an AAC Blackout mount. 1/2x28 threading. I was going to offer to let you borrrow the tools but the stuff I have is for 1x14 LH. You should be able to buy the tools online for $50-60 or find somebody here that will loan you the stuff. Threading the barrel is very easy to do just make sure you use a thread alignment tool (TAT). Having the SAR will make the job even easier as your FSB should already have a hole to install the spring loaded detent pin. You will have to knock out the front pin at the base of the FSB, install the detent spring and pin, then reinstall the FSB pin. Thread the barrel BEFORE you install the detent pin so it's not in the way. You can thread it with the detent pin in place but it's just easier to thread the barrel before you install the detent pin. http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/SAR-1%20Project/Feb2011028.jpg Here is the final result, notice the threads go all the way to the FSB. http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/SAR-1%20Project/Feb2011048.jpg Here is the die with the TAT in place. http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/SAR-1%20Project/Feb2011036.jpg If you have any questions or need help shoot me an IM. You don't start out with the die on the flat side - you start with the tapered side. You don't use the flat side until you get as far as you can with the tapered, then unscrew the die, turn it around and finish up. You should still relieve the threads in front of the sight base by filing a narrow groove all the way around. This allows an attachment to thread all the way flush by hand so you can get the closest lock with the spring detent. Of course, the correct way to do it with a die is to remove the sight base, thread just under the front edge, then no relieving is needed. Here's what the relief on mine looks like - I didn't have exactly the right file but this works fine. I already had the bore in the sight base for the spring detent - you have to punch out the first sight base pin to install it.  |
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
Team Member
Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
Posts: 1515 Feedback: 100% (30) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/29/2011 9:56:35 PM
Originally Posted By 1saxman:
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Originally Posted By Rocksarge:
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Threading the barrel is incredibly easy to do. There are also videos on youtube showing how to crown and I can't imagine cutting would be hard either if you're just talking about cleaning up the end of the barrel. If you're talking about shortening it significantly then you'd have to move the sight/gas blocks which is much more involved. What do you have for a rifle and what are you trying to do with it? Just bought a WASR-3 and want to attach an AAC Blackout mount. 1/2x28 threading. I was going to offer to let you borrrow the tools but the stuff I have is for 1x14 LH. You should be able to buy the tools online for $50-60 or find somebody here that will loan you the stuff. Threading the barrel is very easy to do just make sure you use a thread alignment tool (TAT). Having the SAR will make the job even easier as your FSB should already have a hole to install the spring loaded detent pin. You will have to knock out the front pin at the base of the FSB, install the detent spring and pin, then reinstall the FSB pin. Thread the barrel BEFORE you install the detent pin so it's not in the way. You can thread it with the detent pin in place but it's just easier to thread the barrel before you install the detent pin. http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/SAR-1%20Project/Feb2011028.jpg Here is the final result, notice the threads go all the way to the FSB. http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/SAR-1%20Project/Feb2011048.jpg Here is the die with the TAT in place. http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/SAR-1%20Project/Feb2011036.jpg If you have any questions or need help shoot me an IM. You don't start out with the die on the flat side - you start with the tapered side. You don't use the flat side until you get as far as you can with the tapered, then unscrew the die, turn it around and finish up. You should still relieve the threads in front of the sight base by filing a narrow groove all the way around. This allows an attachment to thread all the way flush by hand so you can get the closest lock with the spring detent. Of course, the correct way to do it with a die is to remove the sight base, thread just under the front edge, then no relieving is needed. Here's what the relief on mine looks like - I didn't have exactly the right file but this works fine. I already had the bore in the sight base for the spring detent - you have to punch out the first sight base pin to install it. http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/INLAND44/Guns/AKmuz1a.jpg If you say so. FYI the die I've got has no "tapered side" it is the same on both sides and doing it the way I did it threaded right to the FSB. I can also thread the slant brake to the FSB. How much more do you ned than that? I have never seen threads that look like the ones you're showing and I personally would never do that to any one of my rifles. YMMV though. |
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Posted: 6/30/2011 3:28:44 PM
ok....now I gots the fever
 ....
I want to thread my MAK-90 and put a brake on it. But what about the FSB? Mine is not drilled for the detent pin - can I do that myself? Or will I need to replace the FSB that has the detent pin already drilled? If so, anybody know which FSB's fit a MAK-90 barrell? |
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
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Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
Posts: 1516 Feedback: 100% (30) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/30/2011 3:41:05 PM
[Last Edit: 6/30/2011 3:42:32 PM by PreemptiveStrike]
Originally Posted By RozarSmacco:
ok....now I gots the fever ....
I want to thread my MAK-90 and put a brake on it. But what about the FSB? Mine is not drilled for the detent pin - can I do that myself? Or will I need to replace the FSB that has the detent pin already drilled? If so, anybody know which FSB's fit a MAK-90 barrell? Most MAK's have had the barrel turned down so that they are too thin to thread 1x14mm LH, it needs to be .550 or greater. However you should be able to thread it for 1/2x28 RH which is the same as AR threading. Most people just use a crush washer to hold whatever muzzle device in place rather than replace the FSB. It can be a PITA to replace the FSB as you need the right tools for the job as the FSB and gas block are pressed in place then pinned. |
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Posted: 6/30/2011 6:45:22 PM
crush washer - good idea!
I'll have to mic my barrel tonight. Thanks Premptive!  |
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Liquidmetal
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Joined: Jun 2007 USA
Posts: 4500 Feedback: 100% (16) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/30/2011 6:49:55 PM
Rocksett, a very high temp thread locker, is a viable option to a crush washer. I use it to hold the brake on my .308 Vepr. Very good stuff.
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Posted: 6/30/2011 6:56:26 PM
sweet. Can you still remove it if you want to?
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Liquidmetal
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Joined: Jun 2007 USA
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Posted: 6/30/2011 6:57:22 PM
Originally Posted By RozarSmacco: sweet. Can you still remove it if you want to? Certainly. |
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Posted: 6/30/2011 7:02:01 PM
RE: the detent spring, I've used springs I've found around the house on 1 front sight block - think I got it from a pen. LOL Works fine to hold my A1 flash hider in place.
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Posted: 6/30/2011 9:38:10 PM
I just mic'd my barrel at .551 on my MAK. Behind the FSB it goes up to .630. So I should be good to use a 14x1 LH to thread this puppy, right? |
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PreemptiveStrike
Having "one of those days"
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Joined: Dec 2007 NH, USA
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Posted: 6/30/2011 9:55:40 PM
Originally Posted By RozarSmacco:
I just mic'd my barrel at .551 on my MAK. Behind the FSB it goes up to .630. So I should be good to use a 14x1 LH to thread this puppy, right? Correct |
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