Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Originally Posted By Imaposer2:
Maybe with some types of retaining wires it really is a pain to deal with them, and maybe some of them don't work that well, IDK, but I've never had a wire that was installed properly fail, and the method I use (described above) makes them easy to use. The one on this particular rifle doesn't have to be removed to take the pins out. It's just a simple push/pull deal to release the pins one at a time and the retaining wire is just left in place. Other types may not work this easily.
The reason some people have so much difficulty with the "shepard's hook" retainer and you don't is simple.
You're disassembling the rifle as intended. Many people don't. They remove the retainer with the pins in place, which is a PITA. They also try to replace the retainer after the pins are installed, which seems almost impossible to me, which is probably why those people resort to the plate.
Well, of course you're right. I knew it but didn't want to offend anyone by suggesting the correct method, and stirring up a virtual shit storm of controversy.
I did allude to it in my earlier post and I’m surprised that no one asked what I meant or for me to explain further, or even try to tell me that I was doing it wrong
From my experience working on many other firearms over the years the correct method seemed normal to me. The AK isn’t the only firearm that uses spring wire for parts retention. The method I use on my AKs is the same basic idea that I’ve used many other times on other weapons. Never really gave it any thought since it is self evident. Then I read the “proper” way to remove the FCG pins somewhere. I tried it once and said, “WTF?”
Why people feel the need to remove the retainer spring is beyond me. I just thought that maybe on some designs it was necessary. On my rifles it isn’t and takes about 2 minutes, tops, to remove the FCG and 'bout the same to put it back in. The spring stays in and really doesn’t need to be removed on two of my AKs. On another that uses the Chinese L-wire you can remove the FCG and leave the wire unless you also remove the selector lever, since the wire is held in place by the selector shaft.
I’ve seen the “proper” method posted in numerous forum posts and even in books. It seems to be the prevailing technique described and discussed. And it seems to be the main reason people have probelms with the wires. If I did it that way I would too and would have wondered if MK had too much Vodka the day he came up with that idea. I have no idea why it got started or what the rationale for it was. Maybe the plate makers came up with the method so they could “solve the problem” by selling a plate to eliminate the wire.
Like I said, I never really thought about a plate before since I didn’t see the need. But, after enough brainwashing I guess I decided to try one out and see. When I considered it the other night I saw the problem with installing it in the Chicom rilfes, which prompted me to start this thread.
On the Chicoms with the original FCG in place the TG is removed before the selector lever. This would make it impossible to install the retainer plates. Maybe with the non-original disco in place, like Tapco’s, it can be made to work but, like I described earlier, the Chicom disco has a design that prevents it.
It depends on the type of retainer wire your rifle has. On two of mine I remove the TG pin first and on one I remove the hammer pin first. Just start on whichever one is closest to the free end of your wire. Just use something like a dental pick and pull the free end of the wire up out of the retaining groove on the pin and push the pin out from right to left. Once the wire has cleared the groove you can release the wire and the pin will slide the rest of the way out. Then you just repeat on the other pin. The pushing and/or pulling just depends on the routing of your wire.
I described the “correct” method I use in an earlier post in this thread. It applies to that one particular rifle but the principle should work in a similar fashion on most wire types.