Hey, really wanting to use some Anti-Seize thread lubricant on the barrel nut threading for AK74 muzzle brakes.

The reason: The 74 type brake traps a lot of gases in the main chamber of the brake, with some of it going back into the threads. This creates carbon-caked threading and can make the brake hard to remove w/o soaking. It also requires a brass wire brush and penetrating solvent/oil to clean.

Anti-Seize/Anti Seez is the metallic looking paste that many people put on wheel lugs. It makes cracking the nut loose easier, slows the spinning (if it were to come loose) of the nut down on new threads, and I believe also prevents rusting to a very decent degree.

I think it would prevent carbon from caking on to the steel nut. When you would take the nut off, the metallic grease should give the burnt carbon some ability to flex and break apart. I also don't think this stuff burns off like oil. It should also make brass brushing the carbon off a lot easier.

On hand, I have VersaChem Type 13, high temp copper formula stuff I intend to use.

Thoughts? Is there anything this could harm? Any experience doing this?

Overkill.

How many rounds are you shooting before removing the brake? I've shot a lot of corrosive ammo and haven't had a problem removing brake yet.

I do make sure the threads on both the muzzle and brake are lubed with gun oil before assembly. What are you using for lube?

H

will not hurt.

I just put a drop of oil on the threads after regular cleaning.

I've never had to soak my brake to get it off, though others say they have. It's still very difficult though. That's after as little as 50rds even. I don't usually let anything go very long before cleaning, and anything shooting corrosive always gets it right after. I sleep better knowing I'd start an adventure with clean and inspected items...  

Oil simply either runs out or burns off, so that's basically out. I've used CLP, as well as some random commercial stuff.

I have some Slip 2000 oil and grease both, which I might try. Just doesn't seem worth it. The Anti-Seize is really cheap and a little goes a long way.

I usually clean the threads and the brake really well when I clean the rifle, then put a dab of grease on the threads when I put it back together.

Never had any problems. Of course I usually don't shoot more than 200-300 rounds in a day and I always clean pretty quickly after that.

A high-temp anti-seize can't hurt and may help a lot.
Oils and standard greases simply burn off and often form a burned tar like substance that just makes it worse.

On another forum is a poster who bought a used AK-74 SGL and can't get the brake off at all even after soaking it with Kroil for several days.
The carbon and bullet fouling can literally "solder" the brake on and make disassembly difficult or near impossible without damaging the brake.

Try the anti-seize and report back the results.  This might be a good standard maintenance procedure for the AK-74.

I applied it and now just waiting for a day where being outside can be enjoyable. (I hope to hell this works too)

(Minnesota)

I have a 106 fr and it gets nasty I think the most rounds I have fired in one session is 300 and it was caked on. The only thing that works worth a shit I have found is a green SOS pad, I soak the muzzle/threads with hoppes 9 and the scrub with the pad same thing for the gas piston

I hear that. I've resorted to straight up kerosene and a brass brush. I've seen it discussed before where guys would use a brass wire wheel in a dremel or drill.

Weird that some posters here haven't ever had any trouble with this somehow?

I agree Anti-seize is a great idea for it. I don't see how it can hurt anything.. go for it!

This.

I am not terribly sure what the heck I used on my M1A1, but I think it was a suspended copper product because of the color.  That stuff worked great and was mess/annoyance free.

Still haven't shot the 74 since all of this, but I'm likely to be buying some noncorrosive stuff coming up.

I just want to be able to get a few spaced out sessions in without needing to clean it fully and in depth every time.

Still a good idea and I still haven't done it.

Anyone else want to test this one out soon?

Anti-seize should work since it's a grease. I just use the same grease I use to lube my AK. I was using TW25B but ran out and got a free sample of Weapon Shield grease. Just smear a little on the threads and rub it around. It keeps the brake from freezing up on the threads.

The cool thing about anti-seez is it leaves that metallic coating. I think that's where the secret truly lies, and why it might work better.

Not only that, I think it protects against corrosion. Had some on wheel lugs on an older F250. It's still there from years and years ago. Anything I've ever seen it on has never rusted past the point it was already at.

I use copper antiseize o my AK Muzzle devices, when it is convenient - as in, when I'm assembling at the bench and have it right there.

My dry, desert climate, and occasional cleaning has not resulted in any seized muzzle devices, but I've had to use extreme measures to remove muzzle devices from parts kits and customer guns.  Sometimes they are rusted in place.

I see no downside. So if it's convenient, I use it.

I also use it on other threaded portions of the other guns that I work on, if my disassembly of rusty parts kits shows a pattern of seized parts.  So the FAL for example, I use it on the return spring plug and screw, sometimes the grip screw, and sometimes the windage screws. But there is only one threaded part on an AK that was designed to be removed by the operator, and that's the  muzzle device.

Use nickel based anti-seize for high temp applications (2400F). That is what mechanics use on spark plug threads.
Go to Pep Boys and get a ½ oz tube of Permatex for about $5.

Anti sieze really cant hurt (I mean, unless you freaking soak it in anti seize), so why not?

If you are into suppressors, you tend to think about anti-seize anytime you are threading something...  

Personally, I always unscrew the muzzle brake after shooting, and leave the thread protector cap on when in the safe.

Anti seize works great for a take apart silencer. Much easier to unscrew.

I've been still too busy/ haven't made time to shoot the AK74 clone. Relocation, new job with lots of firearms training and hands on killed my desire to hit local ranges, etc.

Has anyone applied anti sieze, shot, and then tried to wipe off the compound and fouling together? I was hoping to do exactly that and upload a vid to share.

I can't see the use of anti seize causing any problems so why not?

Still looking for anyone that has tested this. Anyone?

(I know, it should be me)

I use it all the time on my Arsenal's, works well.